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Old 02-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #46
Exile OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrittner
How did they work out for you? I saw those and thought the same thing of using them on my XRL.
So far they work great. Nice and bright. The only downside is the bulbs are a H3 base, I think its H3, and they don't do well being shaken around. The filament just broke off and rolled around in one and I had to splice a new bulb in. That's the only downside and for $15 for something that is just nice to have, it was worth it.
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:50 PM   #47
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Well I got a chance over spring break to do some more work on the DR.

I wired some homemade battery lead extenders on the bike so that I don't have to remove the seat to get or give a jump. I got some 6 ga. wire, added some ring clip ends, and then took some 1" radiator hose and attached it to each hanging lead end with electrical tape. The leads are ziptied to the frame just below the airbox. The radiator hose gives the lead ends some protection while making sure they never touch, and I cut a slit in them for ease of access when attaching cables. I will take some pictures when I get a chance.

I also got a chance to work on installing the Ohlins shock I got off of a KTM 300. I was told this was an easy and cheap swap. I think I was deceived. Well, it may have worked for a couple people but my Ohlins had too long of a reservoir and it hit the exhaust...ie I didn't work.


I was also told by Rick with CD, Inc that the stroke was off, though I still don't know how he was able to tell that just by a picture. Oh and because I said I would for Mezo, here are my "babies."


So after talking with Rick some more on the situation we have worked out the rebuild of my original shock with his internals and a heavier spring, 7.6 Eibach, since I am on the 180lb decision marker and I like to ride hard. So look for future posts in a couple weeks for the shock rebuild and reinstall.
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Old 03-19-2010, 01:10 PM   #48
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Thread title updated as per your request
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:24 AM   #49
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Time for an update.

The Ohlins shock ended up being a bust. Oh well. I was able to work out a deal with Rick at Cogent Dynamics for his shaft kit and valving along with a 7.6 Eibach spring. Rick is an amazing guy to work with and I can't think of anyone I would rather recommend. I rebuilt the shock myself and it is amazing. I followed this write up here. A couple things I would add to that are: the snap rings I found come out the easiest with a hooked can opener and when reinstalling the bladder and shaft, fill the oil up almost to the top, just in case. I have some pictures but they are on a different camera. I'll post them later.

In more exciting news. The Moonshine Run happened last weekend and was a blast. I got my shock put back together last Friday night in time for the ride Saturday morning. Details and pictures are posted here. My friend and I also went riding around for a while after that was over.


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Old 04-17-2010, 05:43 AM   #50
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Stator cover plate/protector

Very Nice job on the DR-just thought of something I haven't seen mentioned yet-put a protective metal plate where the shifter lines up with the stator cover -a properly placed fall will poke your shifter through the stator cover and you will lose you crankcase oil from the crack/hole, and leave you oil- less and stranded-this happen to me on my '97- -ps-have fun on your ride!!
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:55 PM   #51
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12v power adapter problem

So, my friend and I are out on the TAT and none of our 12v power adapters, the car cigarette kind, are working with any electronics other than thhe air compressor. We need help! Does anyone have some helpful insight as to why, on either bike, the power adapters won't power...

Quick responses are appreciated.
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Old 07-06-2010, 08:01 PM   #52
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are you using the male plugs that came with the electronic gadgets.
If you changed out the ends you may have created the problem, i.e. most gps gadgets have a voltage reducer in the male end that plugs into the cig plug.
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:31 AM   #53
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Exile
So, my friend and I are out on the TAT and none of our 12v power adapters, the car cigarette kind, are working with any electronics other than thhe air compressor. We need help! Does anyone have some helpful insight as to why, on either bike, the power adapters won't power...

Quick responses are appreciated.
I've never been a fan of any sort of cigarette type plug. Crap. I much prefer the common SAE type plug that comes with the Battery Tender and older Gerbing jackets.

I have a fused SAE pig tale hanging out the side panel, only a foot from the battery. Perhaps you can adapt to this and power your stuff? Or use a fuse block of some kind. Direct to battery is best, IMO with in-line fuse.

Good luck.

How is the bike working other wise?
(funny, my Ohlins is working fine!)
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Old 07-07-2010, 09:09 AM   #54
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Some of the electronics have the adapters that came with them others are powered through USB from the adapter. However, they won't even power a standard power inverter.

Yes, we should have done this a different way but we are already on the trail and would prefer a quick/easy solution if possible.

Other than this, the bikes are performing great.
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:48 AM   #55
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Polarity correct? Do you have a VOM to check voltage / continuity?
Your invertor may need to see a minimum voltage/amp level to operate? Not sure. The DR650 puts out 200 watts max. so not much power. Try a BMW.

Being a low tech camper, I bring only two plug in chargers (camera and Phone), neither plug into the bike. Everything else stays home. Only thing that plugs into my bike is my Gerbing (and Battery Tender when at home). I use a headlight switch in daytime (frees up 55 watts), keeps battery strong when running accessories... Gerbing & heated grips (100 watt draw combined)

Perhaps campgrounds that have 110 AC power? Over night charge?
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:31 PM   #56
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Make sure your polarity is correct. The inside walls of the plug should be negative, pin at center of bottom is positive. If you don't have access to a volt meter, a simple continuity check probe can be used.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:06 PM   #57
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Polarity is correct. The power adapters work with a air compressor. Also, since rewiring the stator I have around 270watts from my DR650. So far we have been charging at state parks. It would be nice to havve it working though.
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Old 07-17-2010, 08:37 PM   #58
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Turns out I am an idiot. The polarity was not correct. Everything is working. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:51 AM   #59
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New Rack Materials

After a hard and sometimes painful lesson regarding the failure of my rack design I have come up with a new solution that may prevent the destruction of one's hard work.

First of all, the stock rear subframe mounts need to be strengthened by bridging the gap between the welds with another weld. I would also drill out the threading in the mounts and use a high grade bolt with a locknut or nut and lockwasher.

Second, don't use any material that is tubular. Anything hollow is just too weak and in this application, too thin. For part of my former design I used hot rolled solid steel. This is what I recommend as it does not break, as long as the welds are good, and it is strong enough to resist bending or at least able to be bent back.

I would use hot rolled for the whole rack. Make sure when welding it that you bevel your ends before you weld so that the weld is sure to go all the way through.


Make the design similar to what you see in commercial applications for other hardboxes.

Finally, mounting the box to the rack. This is the crucial part since it is ultimately what will save the boxes, the rack, and perhaps your legs. In a crash, the hot rolled steel will hold up, though it may need bent back in place. After too many crashes, everything starts to weaken. Here is where the type of mounting is crucial. When building something design to take a crash, you want to have a weak or breaking point. The breaking point in this application needs to be the mounts. Therefore, I would mount the boxes with hose clamps.


I would think 6 of them for each box should be strong enough to hold the box. When you crash, the hose clamps will shear off like butter, taking the force away from the rack and allowing the box to separate from the rack saving the rack, the box, and perhaps your leg. Now you will have to make a mounting bracket to attach to the box that the hose clamps can attached too. And for vibration deadening, I would use small pieces of hose around the steel bar rack. So when you are on a trip with this kind of set up, bring lots of hose clamps.

If anyone ever tries this setup, please let me know and post up the build and RR if applicable.
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:20 AM   #60
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Wow, great thread! Exile, you do great work!! Your bike looks really sharp.

I just got my DR a couple days ago. Right now I'm looking to get the Givi side boxes (the set that Happy-Trails sells, but I found a used set); I'm trying to keep the weight down as much as possible. I'm only 5'8 and 160 so it'll be easier to control the bike with less weight.

I learned the hard way last July (2009) when I went on an ATV trip into north-central California (the Dusy-Ershim Trail)... I had so much crap on the quad, that my previously super-stable Sportsman 800 flipped three times on that ride. I was so fed up with it that I sold it a month later and got a new SP850 and have re-thought my entire packing system and what to bring. And on a bike, I have to cut all that by at least half.

Rob
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