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Old 01-05-2015, 03:01 PM   #1
motobiko OP
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Location: Colstrip, Montana
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Stuck in Bolivia on a 09 KLR 650 with no electrical power

Hey mine name is Luke and i am currently in Bolivia north of La Paz on a 09 klr 650 with 46000 miles on it. I went to start it yesterday and it turned over for 2 seconds and died without firing up. I replaced the fuse, but no power to anything, no lights, nada.

I have had some random electrical issues for a while, like sometimes the tach would not work or go to 10k at idle. Occasionally i would have to hit the starter switch several times before it would turn over, but nothing like this. Once in a while the main fuse would blow, but it wouldnt melt the middle part, it would melt one side of the fuse, as in the yellow plastic would melt. Ive never seen that before in another vehicle.

I checked the battery. It was good. All 3 fuses are good. I can jump the leads across the starter relay and turn the engine over fine, but no spark.

The white wire going to the ignition swicth has power, but when i turn the key on, the brown wire going out to the rest of the systems is grounding out. I already checked the wires for a short and There was a spot on a wire going to the diode behind the instrument cluster that was worn through to the frame, but i fixed that. I really dont want to cut all the wiring harnesses apart to look for a short, but i will if i have to.

With the 4 wire harness to the ignition switch unplugged, the brown wire going to rest of the system is grounded unless i unplug the instrument cluster and the Ignitor. Ive checked for continuity with my ohmmeter, but no 0 readings, just 80 ohms or 50 ohms if i go thruogh the tach or light indicator, etc.

I checked the coil and its within spec. The diode and Regulator/Rectifier require an analog ohmmeter, and i have a digital.

I pulled every wire harness i could find, trying to get power to the system, but failed to get anything.

I did try to jump the ignitor, rectifier, and the starter circuit relay with an external wire, but no spark or power to instrument cluster.

My thoughts are either-

A- there is a wire short inside one of the electrical harnesses or

B- one of the ignition components is faulty, i.e. the ignitor, diode, regulator, instrument cluster

Ive spent about 14 hours working on it already, so ive tried most thing. If anyone has any other ideas id sure appreciate it. Otherwise i may have to get it shipped to La Paz and try to get it worked on there.


Thanks.

Luke
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motobiko screwed with this post 01-05-2015 at 03:16 PM
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Old 01-05-2015, 04:14 PM   #2
Notsluggo
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KLR650.net

I am unable to assist - but put a link to your post over in the Rider Help section of KLR650.net.
Good luck.
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Old 01-05-2015, 06:18 PM   #3
DirtyDog
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IIRC, the '09 model had issues with the wiring harness (mfg recall?). Continue to check it thoroughly for wear spots before doing anything else. This will require removing parts to do a good inspection.

Nothing else, here's a bump for the real KLR wizards to see.
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:19 PM   #4
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Why don't you suspect the ignition switch has failed, or alternatively a side stand switch?
if you have one. Is the kill switch in the run position?

I'd truck it to La Paz if you can't get it and have one of the local pros go at it.

Ask the motorcycle police who works on their motorcycles.

bill
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:37 PM   #5
motobiko OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Why don't you suspect the ignition switch has failed, or alternatively a side stand switch?
if you have one. Is the kill switch in the run position?

I'd truck it to La Paz if you can't get it and have one of the local pros go at it.

Ask the motorcycle police who works on their motorcycles.

bill

I disconnected the ignition switch and ran a jumper across the brown and white wires, essentially replicating what the ignition switch does. Still nothing.

The side stand switch should simply prevent it from turning over, not kill power to the enitre system, like the headlight should still come on. I had that happen to me in Alberta this summer. I disconnected every plug i could find systematically, but to no avail.

I have had wires rub through before, but they just blew the main fuse when i turned the key over. This time it just dies and no power to anything. Which is why im stumped over it. But im not an electrician.

Finally i just jumped a lead from the positive battery terminal over the starter relay and ignition switch to the power side, and i had juice again

Seems like the lights are grounding out, because they seem to like to make it trip out again. Not sure yet what the problem is for sure, but im going to ride to la paz tomorrow minus the lights and see what i can do there.

Thanks for the input-

Luke
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:45 PM   #6
Beezer
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I fixed an 09 that had one of the Brown wires shorting inside the instrument cluster. was a few years ago & I don't remember it exactly but it was instrument lighting in the right side of the panel. I got to it from the front by taking off some of the cowl as I recall. there was a PC board and one wire went where it shouldn't... sorry, thats all I remember

there was an issue with the harness & routing in those years, and a factory recall, but if there are no obvious rub spots, I think it has to be at or near a termination. seems like the turn signals can do this some times too because the wires can be flipped & sometimes the socket will ground. take all the connectors off & plug them in one at a time

you can replace the fuse with a light bulb (solder on alligator clips, etc) then you can move wires & such an see when the bulb goes on/off
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:47 PM   #7
XDragRacer
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Congratulations on getting 'er running, Luke!

You have a multimeter; maybe you have this wiring diagram also:

http://s414.photobucket.com/user/Rob...ected.jpg.html

Wish I could be more helpful, but . . . in your position, I'd have to chase wires also, as you have done.

Good luck!
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:37 PM   #8
Beezer
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never seen that circuit before but I think it has some ahhhh "quirks"

where it says "start ckt relay" next to a circle... pretty sure what that circle represents the coil of the start relay. it's in the right place with respect to the lockout circuits (diodes).

the smaller circle just below and to the left is the neutral light

and where it says "start ckt relay" next to 2 parallel lines (that look like a capacitor)... not sure what that is supposed to be... I think it may be a mistake.

back to the start relay.... they are showing the coil and control wires in one place and the starter power circuit in another place (upper left, the 2 lines represent the relay contacts). the paralle lines are the contacts that switch
power from battery to the start motor.

fwiw.... the igniter (bk/R) needs a ground from one of the protection circuit diodes in order to run

I believe the Y/R to the igniter is there to tell the system when in the start mode to retard the spark
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:41 PM   #9
motobiko OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Congratulations on getting 'er running, Luke!

You have a multimeter; maybe you have this wiring diagram also:

http://s414.photobucket.com/user/Rob...ected.jpg.html

Wish I could be more helpful, but . . . in your position, I'd have to chase wires also, as you have done.

Good luck!

Thanks for the link. I do have a Clymer book with the wiring diagram in it. It has helped somewhat, but im not a wiring expert, so like for example, with the ignition unplugged the brown wire has .8 ohms to the negative battery terminal. Then if I unplug the headlamp fuse, it goes up to 6.5 ohms. im not sure if that's normal or if its suppose to be like that.
I got it to run finally and drive. Rode to 17204' on Tuesday. Still don't know why it happened. Must have a weak connection or two wires are rubbing together or grounding out. Ill have to keep my fingers crossed.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:48 PM   #10
motobiko OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
never seen that circuit before but I think it has some ahhhh "quirks"

where it says "start ckt relay" next to a circle... pretty sure what that circle represents the coil of the start relay. it's in the right place with respect to the lockout circuits (diodes).

the smaller circle just below and to the left is the neutral light

and where it says "start ckt relay" next to 2 parallel lines (that look like a capacitor)... not sure what that is supposed to be... I think it may be a mistake.

back to the start relay.... they are showing the coil and control wires in one place and the starter power circuit in another place (upper left, the 2 lines represent the relay contacts). the paralle lines are the contacts that switch
power from battery to the start motor.

fwiw.... the igniter (bk/R) needs a ground from one of the protection circuit diodes in order to run

I believe the Y/R to the igniter is there to tell the system when in the start mode to retard the spark
Yeah, this has really stumped me, because it killed power to everything, then It ran, then it lit up, but no spark. So 2 days wasted doing nothing but pull plugs and run continuity tests. But I do know the system really well now. Maybe that will come in handy when it goes capoot in the desert, lol.

The only thing I can think of is that some wire is rubbing somewhere I cant see. Or a connection is getting condensation and shorting out. Because it ran fine after it started up the 3rd day of trouble. I rode 300 miles since with only a minor tach glitch.

I couldn't get spark without the b/y wire hooked up from the ignition, so it must tell the ignitor to send out spark.

Thanks for the advice. Ill keep it in mind when it happens again.
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Old 01-08-2015, 09:24 PM   #11
XDragRacer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beezer View Post
and where it says "start ckt relay" next to 2 parallel lines (that look like a capacitor)... not sure what that is supposed to be... I think it may be a mistake.

back to the start relay.... they are showing the coil and control wires in one place and the starter power circuit in another place (upper left, the 2 lines represent the relay contacts). the paralle lines are the contacts that switch
power from battery to the start motor.
I think possibly the parallel lines (that look like a capacitor) indeed represent relay contacts; the circles labeled "relay," show terminals for the relay control voltage.

In ground truth, these components are co-located; for the wiring diagram, the symbols are shown separately, representing the switching logic.

Conjecture only on my part; the author, RoberTX, would be the authority.
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Old 01-08-2015, 11:24 PM   #12
Beezer
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right you are XDR... co-located. thats what I was trying to say but sometimes it don't come out as I think what I said.... can see it in my head no problem

bk/y is ground and yes the CDI must have a base ground. it also needs other inputs as described
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:09 AM   #13
motobiko OP
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Stuck in Bolivia on a 09 KLR 650 with no electrical power

Well I got the bike running and made it to Iquique, Chile but not without issues. One day on the Salar I lost power to the ignition and had to run a hot wire from my cigarette lighter to the white wire in the plug for the ignition harness. Otherwise if I got it started the tach would either not work or go to 9k and the lights would flicker.
I ran it this way for a day and disconnected it. Somehow the white wire got power again. When I've checked it it had continuity between the white wire and the positive battery terminal.

Then coming into Iquique it started missing when I was going down the highway. I thought it was bad gas or the screens were getting plugged because we were doing 70mph, but eventually it quite and I had no spark. Then I lost all power but got it back somehow.




This is the wiring diagram I have in my book. If it's Not getting spark but it turns over, either the black wire coming from the ignitor is bad or the brown/white wire coming from the starter switch is bad.

The brown wire has .8 ohms going through it when I hook the ohmmeter to it and the ground. If I unplug the 15amp headlight fuse it has 6.8ohms. Looked all over for a short but couldn't find it.

If I unplug the ignitor and the instrument cluster I get no continuity from ground to brown wire.

Not sure if one of the switches is bad or what. I'm getting very hesitant to take it offroad not knowing if it will make it or not.
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:40 AM   #14
XDragRacer
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The intermittent nature of your problem suggests to me a questionable connection, or an intermittent short/open in the wiring harness. (Could be a faulty switch, as you suggest.)

Intermittent electrical problems are hard to find and fix; best bet for me would be, chase wires with a multi-meter; others may have capability to focus on likely problem areas.
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Old 01-13-2015, 01:22 PM   #15
Beezer
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do you ever lose the neutral light (when in neutral)? that would indicate a short in the brown wires in the instrument cluster & pretty sure it would also make the tach go fruit too
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