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Old 10-26-2013, 12:39 AM   #1981
_cy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlandr View Post
Not unique to Lithium based batteries either.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTuc_Mb9NDs
apologies for the thread hi-jack ..

the welding part .. no that's not new. generator/starter repair shops were using 12v batteries in series to silver solder decades ago. note video uses 3x full size car batteries in series to arc weld with.

what's unique to Lithium batteries is the way discharge occurs .. violently during a dead short. how do you think tiny AH LiFePO4 batteries are able to deliver enough amps to start large motorcycle engines? LiFePO4 will deliver with near full cranking amps almost to dead. then power will drop off sharply.

li-ion batteries which LiFePO4 are a member of same family .. all have extremely low internal resistance. this is why CCA ratings provided by some LiFePO4 mfg are near meaningless. ALL li-ion batteries discharge at high rates!! so what a LiFePO4 battery delivers say 290amps for a few seconds. some LiFePO4 mfg use realistic CCA numbers .. you as the consumer would be hard pressed to know the difference.

this is why brutal 200amp continuous cranking tests are used. what counts is LiFePO4 batteries' ability to sustain high amp loads. this is where difference in how LiFePO4 cells are put together and quality of cells used makes the difference. kinda like where rubber hits the road ...

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Old 10-26-2013, 05:32 AM   #1982
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Originally Posted by _cy_ View Post

for X-Challenge battery height allowed by tray favors Antigravity 12cell (7.5AH) vs EarthX ETX24 (7AH) probably will not fit. EarthX ETX18 (5AH) is too small ..

you cannot go wrong with EarthX or AntiGravity. provided LiFePO4 is sized correctly of course.
I bought my EarthX about a year ago (before they had the internal cell balancing). I went with the ETX18, mistakenly, thinking I was actually getting more amp hours than the stock Yuasa. Height-wise, it barely fits but there is plenty of room on the sides.


I didn't care that much about space or weight, but it is a bonus. I just wanted the most Ah and the 18 was the biggest I could fit. Even the biggest Lithium battery will be significantly lighter than stock. And given the cold weather characteristics, I wanted as much cca as I could get.

I really wanted to use an Odyssey. But unless I'm mistaken, it is actually a slightly less capacity than stock and a larger on won't fit. But the Odyssey has a longer track record. All that said, the EarthX has performed well. It starts fine on the first try even at temps below freezing and I haven't had any capacity issues.

But to continue the hijack, cy: When comparing Ah, how many Ah does the stock Yuasa provide before it starts getting damaged versus how many the ETX18 would provide before it starts getting damaged? Aren't the Lithium batteries more tolerant of being discharged?
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Old 10-26-2013, 05:11 PM   #1983
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Originally Posted by TobyG View Post

Holy cow



By the way, do you have a couple of pics from before the "incident"?
Specifically interested in the Airbox/oil tank setup.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726679
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Old 10-28-2013, 11:42 PM   #1984
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Originally Posted by c-m View Post
Since water is such a poor conductor, why all the references to "after a water dunking?"
Nobody said anything about conductivity.

Mine was to do with getting water in the fuel via the fuel breather. If the end of the fuel breather tube is under water while the engine is running, it will suck water into the fuel. It was explained in detail a few posts back.

The only other guy to mention water crossings had to jump start his bike in a river bed, probably because being a river bed it was the lowest place a round and he could easily roll there and there was plenty of space there. But certainly he didnt mention conductivity.
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Old 11-03-2013, 04:13 AM   #1985
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Colebatch, I think you didn't mention additional rear light in this thread...
Can you tell us of what it is, if its LED, and which of the functions - brake, stop, number plate illumination, has it got?
Thanks!



PS. Why did you decide to not use the original indicator positions?
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #1986
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Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Colebatch, I think you didn't mention additional rear light in this thread...
Can you tell us of what it is, if its LED, and which of the functions - brake, stop, number plate illumination, has it got?
Its a 3 way LED brake light, rear position lamp (aka parking light / side light) and number plate illumination in one. From memory the stock light was just number plate illumination. I went on a drive to reduce power consumption after draining my battery near Mirny in 2009. The number plate illuminator is hard wired / always on and was a 10w bulb. Replacing it with a cheap ebay model (sealed up with sealant) freed up 9w permanently. It also gave me peace of mind knowing I had two sets of position lights and brake lights.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
PS. Why did you decide to not use the original indicator positions?
Cause they broke off a long time ago and one of the ripped a big hole in the plastic where it mounts. So it was difficult to mount any replacements there. So I found a different spot to mount lighter (LED) replacements. It also gave me better clearance from the exhaust.
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Old 11-09-2013, 01:57 PM   #1987
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I was looking as well, but couldn't find one that I liked and that would fit the gap nicely...
Anyways, could you explain about your exhaust shields in this pic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch View Post
You have the original on the header and the one supplied with SR racing on the rear, but what is that shield in the middle from?
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:48 AM   #1988
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Originally Posted by Bli55 View Post
Anyways, could you explain about your exhaust shields in this pic?

You have the original on the header and the one supplied with SR racing on the rear, but what is that shield in the middle from?
Its custom .. Hot Rod Welding special... ;)
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:54 PM   #1989
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ABS problems

Say, has anyone had issues/complaints with the ABS on the XCh? It's too crude for me and it's given me more problems and scares than giving me peace of mind and security.

Could someone please let me know how to delete the entire ABS system?
I have a front radial master cylinder from my other bike in my parts shelf... Can I use that one just in case?
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:54 AM   #1990
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The ABS disable process I have online in the YZforkNotes PDF for the 650GS will apply to the X as the ABS is the same

The likely difficulty you will encounter is extending the speed sensor to the dash which is the problem we are now looking at for the Sertao and G650GS 2010 onwards. All the GS dashes allow for signals either from the sensor direct to the dash or a processed signal from the ABS. The X will be the same, it would be a question of looking at the elec diagrams
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Old 12-10-2013, 01:28 AM   #1991
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Here is a v. good write-up on removing ABS:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthr...=1#post2865331
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Old 12-10-2013, 02:21 AM   #1992
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Well written article and it has solved a problem I had on sourcing connectors. There are two items which are perhaps not the best though

Firstly the sensor wiring is prone to noise and so shielded cable would be recommended, the early 650GS was unshielded and they moved to shielded on the dual spark models and the G Series

Secondly tying the dash signal inputs directly to earth is not normal electronic practice, using a resistor of say 1000 ohms would be recommended to protect the unknown dash electronics, it may take some testing to determine the best resistor values
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:21 AM   #1993
Meriden
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FWIW I changed over to a 14AH Shorai about a month ago and have experienced no problems since. "Cold weather" starts have been limited to a only a handful below freezing with most in the 40 degree F range. None have required me to warm the battery for any longer than it takes to put on a pair of gloves. The battery worked flawlessly during an Arizona/Nevada/California trip that totaled about 1000 off pavement over ten days.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:36 AM   #1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meriden View Post
FWIW I changed over to a 14AH Shorai about a month ago and have experienced no problems since. "Cold weather" starts have been limited to a only a handful below freezing with most in the 40 degree F range. None have required me to warm the battery for any longer than it takes to put on a pair of gloves. The battery worked flawlessly during an Arizona/Nevada/California trip that totaled about 1000 off pavement over ten days.
My buddy in Truckee switched over to that battery about two months ago too. We went to do a trip to Death Valley last week. Overnight temps were 9F. Battery was dead and not liking the cold.

JG
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:21 AM   #1995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1 View Post
The ABS disable process I have online in the YZforkNotes PDF for the 650GS will apply to the X as the ABS is the same

The likely difficulty you will encounter is extending the speed sensor to the dash which is the problem we are now looking at for the Sertao and G650GS 2010 onwards. All the GS dashes allow for signals either from the sensor direct to the dash or a processed signal from the ABS. The X will be the same, it would be a question of looking at the elec diagrams
Thanks! The electrical system bit is quite tedious for me as of now but I think I can learn enough to be able to tackle the deactivation... How about the mechanical stuff? Would it be easier to just remove all the ABS pump, fittings and peripherals then replace them with the conventional, non-ABS parts i.e master cylinders+braided hoses?
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