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Old 11-26-2009, 11:49 AM   #31
Luckiest Man Alive
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Somewhere in the Hill Country of Texas
Oddometer: 244
Great ride report, as always! Good to see you're still out there.

"Always aim at complete harmony of thought and word and deed." M. Gandhi. (1869-1948)

TnA's travels
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Old 11-26-2009, 11:56 AM   #32
...please wait...
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Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 422
Great pictures, great ride
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:40 PM   #33
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Location: west central illinois (forgotonia)
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Laugh thanks ,

I've been taking notes to use when we are out in that area next Jan..
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Old 11-26-2009, 03:54 PM   #34
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Location: Bow and Arrow OK.
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Nice ride. Thanks for sharing it.
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:40 PM   #35
cubical farmer
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Joined: Jan 2007
Location: On the wrong side of the river
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Nice Report

El Rojo Puerco del Diablo?(I'm part devil also )I have your bikes twin brother. My 98 snapped the speedo cable at 43K and the clutch cable around 52K. How many miles are you up to? Any other impressions on how the new bags have affected the bike?
If you are fixing a ford, use ford parts. If you are fixing your body, use what its made from. Joan Matthews
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:53 PM   #36
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Texas Hill Country, Zip Code EIEIO
Oddometer: 1,211
Originally Posted by GSdiablo
El Rojo Puerco del Diablo?(I'm part devil also )I have your bikes twin brother. My 98 snapped the speedo cable at 43K and the clutch cable around 52K. How many miles are you up to? Any other impressions on how the new bags have affected the bike?
Well I'll be danged! Finally found my evil twin

Actually, I've got close to 49,000 on it. So I was due huh?

I carry an extra clutch and throttle cable with me, a hangover from enduro days, but I think I'll replace the speedo cable as well since yours broke about that range.

I'll order it from the BMW dealer in Tucson and pay extra for it to be rushed to them so they can mail it to me in Texas by 3rd class US mail.

Actually, I'm loving the cases. They are ten times more useful than the system cases. To be honest, I was running Ruby road hard enough that I expected the frames to break or screws to fall out, but they held up fine. I do feel the wind a bit more with them, but I'm happy as the proverbial puerco rojo in a poke.
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:40 PM   #37
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: NE North Carolina
Oddometer: 258
Originally Posted by JoeyBones
Sorry to hijack, but do you mean Boerne, TX, outside of San Antonio?
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Old 11-26-2009, 08:09 PM   #38
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Texas Hill Country, Zip Code EIEIO
Oddometer: 1,211
Last night I stayed at the Larian Motel in Tombstone. It was an older motel, with a western movie theme throughout, but was nice, clean and well decorated. The manager who checked me in had such a thick Scottish brogue that honestly, I only understood about every 5th word he said. I asked him how he ended up in Tombstone of all places, and he told me he moved here for the history. Said he'd grown up in Scotland watching westerns as a child and the history of the old west was his life passion. Cool. I ended up up in the "Doc Holliday" room, naturally.

I got up early, made coffee in the room and stared at the wall for a while til my tiny brain rolled into its socket, then got dressed and wandered over to the boardwalk. And by the way, why is it that hotels always give you those stupid little packets for your coffee with two smidgens of sugar and two micro-smidgens of creamer! Aaaargh.

Being Thanksgiving Day, little was open, but I found coffee and a honeybun in the general store and wandered some more. A couple of places were gonna be open for Thanksgiving meals, including the VFW hall, but I was leaning to head for Bisbee since it's in the direction I need to go for El Paso.

Good morning mi amigo puerco!

The Scottish manager saw me and insisted he take a pic of me saying "Ouw yer Uan Mac Gregggoooooor!"

Good place to stay and the manager is great

I gotta tell you, I like Tombstone. Don't know why, even though it's touristy, I like the feel and the folks. There are more gun stores in this town than I've ever seen, and that warms the cockles of my heart. I think it's sort of the Vegas version of Terlingua.

Yet another Klar for sale

The original dual sport adventure tourer

This saloon was serving Hot Dogs/Beans/Pickles for $1 for Thanksgiving Dinner... the ice cold part didn't sound good lol

This old caboose looked pretty rustic

Today I felt like taking the day off and not doing much, since it IS a holiday. I got geared up and headed south for Bisbee, since I've never been there. And it's on the way to head back to Texas Friday.

It was a bit colder today when I left Tombstone for the short ride south, but the view in the valley is great, with mountain ranges on the east and west.

The speed limit on 82 was 65, so I enjoyed the xtra 10 mph :) Funny thing, yesterday when I hopped on I-19 for Tucson, the speed limit was 75, but after riding at DS speeds on back roads and 55 on asphalt for days now, 75 made me feel paranoid that I was gonna get a ticket

It wasn't long before entering the hills preceding Bisbee, and the rocks were a stronger color.

Just before the town you enter a tunnel, then come out to views of houses and buildings perched all over the hillsides.

LooooneStaaaaaar... LooooneStaaaaaar... riiiiiide intoooooooo the liiiiiiiiiiiiight

Bisbee was a rich copper mining town, and I assume there are still active mines there.

The town is a wonderfully eclectic community, colorful and varied in styles. It is a maze of tiny streets and alleys, all steep or sloped. It reminds me very much of an American version of a small Italian or German village built on the mountainside.

Riding through, it was a maze of tiny streets and I rode all through the town. There were three Indians wearing make-up or ski masks, protesting in the downtown area, waving placards at passers by saying "Thanks-for-nothingGiving!"

Mama always told me art and alcohol don't mix

The place is littered with shops and galleries, and only a few hotels. The nature of the streets and lack of parking make it difficult to find any that aren't visible in the main area.

I ended up stopping at the "Copper Queen" hotel, the lush, grand hotel from the boom era of Bisbee. There were two BMW's there - R1100R and R1150R, and I parked my dusty beast next to their svelte and shiny selves and went up into the lobby. I was hoping to get a good room and maybe a Thanksgiving Dinner in the restaurant. Once in the door, I knew it wasn't gonna work. The milling gaggle of wealthy older folks waiting in line for the restaurant looked in disdain at my dusty, bug stained self. Hee hee. I went to the check-in counter to ask for the rates and availability anyway. Let's just say the "Copper Queen" is alive and well, his name is Bruce, and he works behind the counter.

I wasn't wanting to pay the high price for a room, and then have to endure a bunch of self-centered nouveau riche for the rest of the evening, so I headed out and explored east of the old town.

You pass the massive copper pit on the east side, and find where the working folks live. Bisbee has that dark, rusty feel of old industrial towns.

This guys got some cool toys and a great loft/shop

I rode back to the old part and found the LaMore Hotel on a side street, and the lady managing it set me up in Room 7. It's an old hotel that has been historically restored. It has wifi most importantly It's also one that looks to have potential ghost activity. My room was upstairs, down a dark hallway and the doors to all the empty rooms were open. I was the only one upstairs. On the way back out, I saw a book by the door where guests can log their "ghost encounters". Great.

Parking was a block below, but I didn't get the feeling this is a real safe town. She said I could park the bike on the narrow sidewalk in front of the hotel, IF it was a small bike. I assured her it was tiny.

She told me the only place open today was the Roma's Pizza place, and that the Copper Queen restaurant would close early.

I headed down for homemade pizza, and being my Thanksgiving meal, I decided to stuff my face with a small pizza and Coke.

It was great.

From there I wandered the streets til it got too cool and headed back up to the haunted hotel. In front, the night manager asked me about the bike and turns out he collects old scooters and such. We talked bikes for a while.

As long as the free range zombies stay out of the hotel, I'm cool

In the window of the coffee roaster

What in the heck is this???????

View from the hotel

Bisbee is a great place to visit and I'm glad I came down. Tomorrow I'm reversing my trip in to AZ by heading back to NM 9 and then El Paso and beyond.

LoneStar screwed with this post 05-11-2015 at 06:24 AM
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:34 PM   #39
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: SoCal
Oddometer: 63
I thoroughly enjoy this RR and the photos that accompany it.
I can't but ask the inevitable question: what make/model camera and GPS are you using?

Cheers and Happy Thanksgiving!

2007 R1200GSA
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:04 PM   #40
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Location: Texas Hill Country, Zip Code EIEIO
Oddometer: 1,211
Hey Steve - thanks!

Most of the shots are with the Panasonic LX3. It has Leica glass and F2.0 aperture. Lens length is 24-60mm 35 equivalent. It also shoots the 16:9, 2:3 and 4:3 formats. Has some quirks. Biggest complaint is the max length 60 lens, but the design had to be kept in those parameters to get the sharpness. Though you can't see it in these small web pics, it is stunningly sharp.

I also carried the LX1 version for backup - it's the first version and not that great, but has a 28-110 ish zoom

As to the GPS, , when my speedo drive died the day I was leaving, I panicked and had to grab my cheap car GPS - a Nuvi 255W. I took a small plastic camp mirror I have and stuck the car windshield suction cup mount to it, positioned at the far end, and then slid the mirror up under the front of the map pouch. Intention was to use it as a speedometer just to get me to Tucson for the repair and I fully expected it to fall off the entire way. Instead the silly thing hasn't budged a millimeter, even in the rougher stuff. I run a 12" USB cable into the tank bag and into a 12v USB cig plug. The sucker's worked great.
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:54 PM   #41
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Monterey, CA
Oddometer: 984

Great RR, I am enjoying both the photos and the encounters along the way. Look forward to more!
2000 KLR650

There's roads and there's roads and they call, can't you hear it? Roads of the earth and roads of the spirit. The best roads of all are the ones that aren't certain. One of those is where you'll find me till they drop the big curtain. Bruce Cockburn
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Old 11-27-2009, 04:01 AM   #42
Older Than Dirt!
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: Georgia Coast!
Oddometer: 1,122
Originally Posted by LoneStar
I think you were - in fact I could still see your tracks in the road. Man what fun am I having thanks to you!
Great report! I was stationed at Fort Huachuca AZ, not all that far from Tombstone... back in the early 70's The scenery is just fantastic..
Former Dualsport Correspondent SideStandUp

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Old 11-27-2009, 11:13 AM   #43
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Joined: Mar 2003
Location: Jennings, Louisiana
Oddometer: 3,477
First , thanks for a great report that has me wanting to get back and do that part of the country again even if mostly sealed roads now.
Next, the Speedo drive for your bike. If you can score the front wheel drive off an R11R ( 17" front wheel ) it will make your speedometer accurate to about 2 mph instead of about 7 fast. I used them on both my R11GS and R1150GS. I bought one and got the other out of a salvage yard. 42 for one and 20 for the other.
A14 KLR 43k miles ,07 1250S Bandit 75K miles , 03 Chevy Truck 80K miles '43 model me. Simper Fi
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:28 PM   #44
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Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Virtual Bivouac
Oddometer: 97

Great ride and report LoneStar!! Thanks for taking the time to write it up! I'll be using this report as a how to soon I hope.
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:14 PM   #45
Joined: Jul 2009
Oddometer: 9
might be a little late. just saw this report. if you are coming through el paso tonight or tomorrow, i can save you a motel fee, provide a couple beers, a bed and a garage. only about 5 miles notrh of 10.
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