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Old 03-22-2013, 01:58 PM   #451
photorider
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It should just plug in. Check all your grounds. There are several if I remember correctly...
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:03 AM   #452
bill42
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back to directional indicators

OK so I bought my acewell well over a year ago and finally yesterday I took the plunge and wired her up. I totally understand why I can't use the hazard light indicator in the gauge as a charge light. I'll be mounting an LED in the headlight bucket with a load resistor. What I can't wrap my head around is the directional marker lights in the Acewell. Bpeckm's original chart mentions that you need to go inside the bucket to find the separate leads since the factory gauges use a single direction indicator light. But on his chart he also mentions the 2 BMW wires that are distinct left and right directional leads. So if the separate wires exist why do I need to tap into the headlight bucket? I know the flasher is in the bucket and that must provide the blinking on/off positive lead for both directionals but if there is only a single directional light in the factory gauge unit, why were there 2 separate left/right wires from the factory harness going into the factory gauge cluster?
I did try to hook up to the factory wires but nothing worked probably because I have no actual direction lights wired up yet and the flasher probably needs a load to make it work.

I hope someone remembers this!
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:38 AM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill42 View Post
OK so I bought my acewell well over a year ago and finally yesterday I took the plunge and wired her up. I totally understand why I can't use the hazard light indicator in the gauge as a charge light. I'll be mounting an LED in the headlight bucket with a load resistor. What I can't wrap my head around is the directional marker lights in the Acewell. Bpeckm's original chart mentions that you need to go inside the bucket to find the separate leads since the factory gauges use a single direction indicator light. But on his chart he also mentions the 2 BMW wires that are distinct left and right directional leads. So if the separate wires exist why do I need to tap into the headlight bucket? I know the flasher is in the bucket and that must provide the blinking on/off positive lead for both directionals but if there is only a single directional light in the factory gauge unit, why were there 2 separate left/right wires from the factory harness going into the factory gauge cluster?
I did try to hook up to the factory wires but nothing worked probably because I have no actual direction lights wired up yet and the flasher probably needs a load to make it work.

I hope someone remembers this!

What year/model bike? My 95 R100RT had two separate leads in the harness for left and right indicators, but the diagrams for older bikes didn't appear to have two.

The indicators should still work without any bulbs hooked up, will just flash faster. The fast flashing is really why you need a resistor for the LED lights.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:58 AM   #454
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What year/model bike? My 95 R100RT had two separate leads in the harness for left and right indicators, but the diagrams for older bikes didn't appear to have two.

The indicators should still work without any bulbs hooked up, will just flash faster. The fast flashing is really why you need a resistor for the LED lights.
Ah, so maybe that's it. I have an '81 R100RT. I have the Blue/red and the blue/black harness wires going into the factory gauge cluster. I believe you are telling me that I do not have to tap into the headlight bucket. The RT even has a non-switched full-time power lead for the clock which is nice.
I also bought an LED flasher unit to replace the stock flasher since I am using LED directionals. So i'm going into the bucket just to swap that out and to install my gen light.
thanks!
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:29 PM   #455
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This should be the solution to my issue. Both my Speedo and Tach have died on my R75/6. I am going to give the bike a good look over as it has Lester Mag wheels on it to make sure I can mount the sensor and magnet. Thanks for all of the info in this post!
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Old 04-10-2013, 12:34 PM   #456
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This should be the solution to my issue. Both my Speedo and Tach have died on my R75/6. I am going to give the bike a good look over as it has Lester Mag wheels on it to make sure I can mount the sensor and magnet. Thanks for all of the info in this post!
No need to use a magnetic pick-up anymore as you can now buy an airhead-compatible speedo sensor that plugs right into the transmission feed of the stock speedo cable.
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Old 04-10-2013, 06:13 PM   #457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill42 View Post
OK so I bought my acewell well over a year ago and finally yesterday I took the plunge and wired her up. I totally understand why I can't use the hazard light indicator in the gauge as a charge light. I'll be mounting an LED in the headlight bucket with a load resistor. What I can't wrap my head around is the directional marker lights in the Acewell. Bpeckm's original chart mentions that you need to go inside the bucket to find the separate leads since the factory gauges use a single direction indicator light. But on his chart he also mentions the 2 BMW wires that are distinct left and right directional leads. So if the separate wires exist why do I need to tap into the headlight bucket? I know the flasher is in the bucket and that must provide the blinking on/off positive lead for both directionals but if there is only a single directional light in the factory gauge unit, why were there 2 separate left/right wires from the factory harness going into the factory gauge cluster?
I did try to hook up to the factory wires but nothing worked probably because I have no actual direction lights wired up yet and the flasher probably needs a load to make it work.

I hope someone remembers this!
The early bikes (from which I made the original sketch and wiring diagram) had an indicator "signal" that went from the actual flasher to that light, and THEN to the left-or-right selector switch. If you have a red/blue and a black/blue available, they are the correct, (separated) left and rights that can be hooked up to the Acewell.

BMW's wiring harnesses evolved over the years from fairly simple to more complicated!

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Old 04-11-2013, 05:38 AM   #458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
BMW's wiring harnesses evolved over the years from fairly simple to more complicated!


I thought the harness on my 95 was pretty simple. I see pictures of rats nests in headlight buckets and I'm kinda glad my bike is so new.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:47 PM   #459
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The "old" bikes did all of the connections in the headlight bucket, on that circuit board.... it looks awful, but once you understood it, was really very simple, indeed...!! And the headlight bucket need not be a rat's nest!




Later bikes did most of the connections and relays under the tank... looks simple cuz the connections are all done with multiple-pin connections.



In the grand scheme of things, and especially when you compare to today's BUS systems and wiring harnesses, they are pretty durn simple!!

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Old 04-12-2013, 05:04 PM   #460
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Sensor details?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill42 View Post
No need to use a magnetic pick-up anymore as you can now buy an airhead-compatible speedo sensor that plugs right into the transmission feed of the stock speedo cable.
Can you provide a name or details of said sensor?
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:50 PM   #461
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Can you provide a name or details of said sensor?
S11. I got mine from Dime City

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintag...w-ace-s11.html
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:02 PM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
The "old" bikes did all of the connections in the headlight bucket, on that circuit board.... it looks awful, but once you understood it, was really very simple, indeed...!! And the headlight bucket need not be a rat's nest!




Later bikes did most of the connections and relays under the tank... looks simple cuz the connections are all done with multiple-pin connections.



In the grand scheme of things, and especially when you compare to today's BUS systems and wiring harnesses, they are pretty durn simple!!


Your'e startin' to sound like a guru
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:15 PM   #463
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...sounds like.... and BEING are somewhat different, the way I understand it..... always learning, always listening, it's all good!!

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Old 04-16-2013, 02:22 PM   #464
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I think I done something stoopid

Hey guys, since you are all so helpful, can anyone tell me if my problem sounds familiar? It is not really acewell related except for the fact that I seem to have screwed up my harness while installing the acewell or maybe the ignition switch.
My Acewell is all wired up and all lights are working inside the gauge so far except the directional arrows. A multimeter meter shows me that I have 2 major flaws in the group of wires not connected to my actual lights though. (the real lights not the acewell read-out)
One of my positive leads, a gray/black wire meant to power the tail light, is shorted to ground.
Additionally, my positive lead for the right directionals, blue/black, has a continuity with green/blue which is a very common switched positive lead that runs all over the harness. But, when key is on I don't get 12 volts on this line.
Frankly, I am baffled that the acewell gauge is not totally burnt out. It seems to function just fine along with my headlight.

The harness was working fine on this 1981 R100RT before I unplugged all lights and stock gauge and then moved the key switch to the side of the headlight bucket. It is possible that I cross-wired the wires to the key switch but if I did, how is it that the headlight and acewell work?
Lastly, none of the wires going to the acewell are at fault, because when I unplug the acewell harness plugs that I retained in my install, these BMW harness wires remain as they are. Like many people, wire harnesses frustrate me, and I am hoping one of you has a fresh perspective or maybe something similar happened to you once.
Currently none of the postive leads to any of the lights, including the brake light when I step on the brake, seem to be putting out 12 volts. My voltages are in the milli-amp range.

/bill

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Old 04-16-2013, 03:28 PM   #465
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[QUOTE=bill42;21200933]Hey guys, since you are all so helpful, can anyone tell me if my problem sounds familiar? It is not really acewell related except for the fact that I seem to have screwed up my harness while installing the acewell or maybe the ignition switch.
My Acewell is all wired up and all lights are working inside the gauge so far except the directional arrows. A multimeter meter shows me that I have 2 major flaws in the group of wires not connected to my actual lights though. (the real lights not the acewell read-out)
One of my positive leads, a gray/black wire meant to power the tail light, is shorted to ground. Are you sure it is "shorted"... if you use an ohm-meter, you should get some resistance (that is what makes the bulb work!), but not "shorted."
Additionally, my positive lead for the right directionals, blue/black, has a continuity again, continuity with a few ohms? with green/blue which is a very common switched positive lead that runs all over the harness. But, when key is on I don't get 12 volts on this line.
Frankly, I am baffled that the acewell gauge is not totally burnt out. It seems to function just fine along with my headlight.

The harness was working fine on this 1981 R100RT before I unplugged all lights and stock gauge and then moved the key switch to the side of the headlight bucket. It is possible that I cross-wired the wires to the key switch but if I did, how is it that the headlight and acewell work?
Lastly, none of the wires going to the acewell are at fault, because when I unplug the acewell harness plugs that I retained in my install, these BMW harness wires remain as they are. Like many people, wire harnesses frustrate me, and I am hoping one of you has a fresh perspective or maybe something similar happened to you once.
Currently none of the postive leads to any of the lights, including the brake light when I step on the brake, seem to be putting out 12 volts. My voltages are in the milli-amp range.

/bill



You might try using a jumper from a known-12v (like the battery pos!) to the wires in question... if they light up, the "continuity" or resistance is what is normal. If it sparks and blows a fuse, well, then you have a short!

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