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Old 04-30-2014, 08:21 PM   #571
Whiteguyphil
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Location: Moreno Valley, CA USA
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Not bad for my first metal working project... not perfect, but functional
IMG_1795IMG_1797
IMG_1798IMG_1799
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:41 PM   #572
mopulga
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looks great!
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Old 05-24-2014, 12:33 AM   #573
sammm
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Anyone have any issues with the LED gen light flickering/dimming instead of going completely out?

I installed the Acewell a while ago and everything works perfectly, but all I could find at the time was a incandescent light to replace my gen lamp. Works well, but not as pretty/clean as the LED that I found recently. So I add a resistor, connect the LED, and it lights up and works almost as normal(picture below to show how it's set up). At idle the light is on, rev slightly and the light goes out, but rev some more and the LED starts flickering/going dim. Substitute the LED for the old incandescent and it works perfect. Goes out as soon as I'm above idle, and stays out no matter how much I rev it.

I've tried a 1/2W 330ohm resistor, a 1/2W 470ohm resistor, and now a 5W 330ohm resistor. Same results every time. I'll probably resign to just using the incandescent in truth, but if anyone knows how to fix this it would be great.



Have I added the resistor wrong? I'm no electrician, but this is how I interpret the diagrams in this thread.

Full shot

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Old 05-24-2014, 03:08 AM   #574
Padmei
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LEDs are a bugger for that. Doesn't take much to light them up. If you turn your lights on does it disappear again?

Nice job with the bike BTW. I would have gone with buttoned upholstery on the seat myself tho

EDIT: Can you put some pics up of your bike buildup? You can throw a few onto Berlinas thread if you don't want to start your own one up - best not clog up this one. I am interested in what you have done. cheers

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Old 05-24-2014, 03:14 AM   #575
oJOEYo
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Sammm, I've had the same. What you need to do is add another resistor. You have now mounted the right resistor in parallel, but you need to add another one on the + side in series. Atleast, that worked for me!
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Old 05-24-2014, 05:21 AM   #576
sammm
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Padmei: when I toggle the headlight/highbeams/indicators on and off there's no difference in the light when the ignition is on but not running. I checked this the other night on my way home and didn't notice any difference when it was running.

I'll make sure I make a post in your thread once I get some better photos and finish up one or two more things. It was mostly aesthetic and ergonomic changes, with a bit lot of maintenance.

oJOEYo: what was the resistance and wattage of the resistor you used in series? Fingers crossed we've got the same problem!
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:38 PM   #577
Whiteguyphil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sammm View Post
I've tried a 1/2W 330ohm resistor, a 1/2W 470ohm resistor, and now a 5W 330ohm resistor. Same results every time. I'll probably resign to just using the incandescent in truth, but if anyone knows how to fix this it would be great.
I am using a 12v LED from Radio Shack (it has a built in resistor) and a 5W 47Ohm resister. Works perfect. If the LED you are using was not a 12v the resistor in series would help, but not sure which one you would need.

IMG_2557

My resistor is in parallel but wired further down in the loom, here it is installed you can see it in my photos above in a previous reply...

IMG_6407

Good luck and nice build
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:05 AM   #578
Tankad
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Help with the BLUE lead from the B+ side of the Diode board

Can someone please provide me a diagram or instructions of where you guys are taking the BLUE lead off the gen light? I know power is going to be green-black graft, but I did not see anything on picking up the BLUE lead from the B+ side of the Diode board. All I can think to do, is to graft into the regulator blue, but I'm not so keen on that idea. I was hoping I would find something on this thread… but I could have missed it.
Thanks everyone!
If it helps, I’m installing this on a 1974 R75/6.
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Old 05-28-2014, 10:11 AM   #579
Whiteguyphil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tankad View Post
Can someone please provide me a diagram or instructions of where you guys are taking the BLUE lead off the gen light? I know power is going to be green-black graft, but I did not see anything on picking up the BLUE lead from the B+ side of the Diode board. All I can think to do, is to graft into the regulator blue, but I'm not so keen on that idea. I was hoping I would find something on this thread… but I could have missed it.
Thanks everyone!
If it helps, I’m installing this on a 1974 R75/6.
Please use white text as it is difficult to read black on the grey background.

I used the blue (from the starter relay), and the green/blue (green/black in your case) wire that fed to the original instrument housing gen light. Also used the wiring diagram from Clymers too, making sure my new connections made sense.
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Old 05-28-2014, 12:14 PM   #580
Tankad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiteguyphil View Post
Please use white text as it is difficult to read black on the grey background.

I used the blue (from the starter relay), and the green/blue (green/black in your case) wire that fed to the original instrument housing gen light. Also used the wiring diagram from Clymers too, making sure my new connections made sense.

Thanks for the assistance...
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Old 05-31-2014, 06:31 PM   #581
pigneguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
Just to be clear about the "pin numbers"...that original table was taken from the /6 era bikes that had this big rubber connector at the back of the speedo/tach assemblies. Those numbers refer to the pin numbers here:'



Regardless, the color-coding of the wires has been standard, even if the wiring diagrams changed over the years. The colors are a European DIN scheme (VW< BMW
down with a torn quad tendon so started the acewell project again....
got bike started up connected to acewell with the following pin # connections:

oil=#6
gen=#5 (also r/h turn?)
neutral=#2
clock power =#8
l/hand turn=#11
switch key=#12
high beam =#7 (tho it activates the <**> lights led)

don't think i need turn wires or fuel wire so cutting these out (any problem with that?)...and haven't quite figured out the gen light yet.

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Old 07-15-2014, 09:53 AM   #582
batoutoflahonda
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Quick review after about 15,000+ miles

I have never been happy with the speed reading. The 10ths jump around so quick that 1's jump with it, so the speed reading is 7x.x, all i know is that I am doing 70 something. This is with the speed sensor in the trans. Which I am on my 3rd. The first I replaced do to the jumping numbers (no help), the second fell apart on a cross country trip and had to be removed.

The tach now seems to have developed the jumping numbers too, (random, some times it's fine)) accompanied by the occasional shift 'red' light. Of course this leads me think the coil or condenser, or dyna booster is going out, which I doubt. But on a long trip a long way from home, questions like that tend to play in the mind.

I am going to go through the grounds just because. My guess it that it is very signal input sensitive, perhaps shielding the wires would help. I also think the wires should be a bit of a larger gauge.

If you are doing restro, and intend to use it primarily around town I think it is a good product. If using it as a long range go any where tool, then perhaps I would look for another solution.

I give it two stars for a G/S.
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Old 07-16-2014, 01:43 AM   #583
Whiteguyphil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda View Post
I have never been happy with the speed reading. The 10ths jump around so quick that 1's jump with it, so the speed reading is 7x.x, all i know is that I am doing 70 something. This is with the speed sensor in the trans. Which I am on my 3rd. The first I replaced do to the jumping numbers (no help), the second fell apart on a cross country trip and had to be removed.

The tach now seems to have developed the jumping numbers too, (random, some times it's fine)) accompanied by the occasional shift 'red' light. Of course this leads me think the coil or condenser, or dyna booster is going out, which I doubt. But on a long trip a long way from home, questions like that tend to play in the mind.

I am going to go through the grounds just because. My guess it that it is very signal input sensitive, perhaps shielding the wires would help. I also think the wires should be a bit of a larger gauge.

If you are doing restro, and intend to use it primarily around town I think it is a good product. If using it as a long range go any where tool, then perhaps I would look for another solution.

I give it two stars for a G/S.
Which model are you using? The speedo one's spot jumps a little but only 1-2 mph on mine. There was a suggestion on another thread to add a resistor to ground in parallel to gain a better signal from the hall sensor. "Pull down" resistor. Although it was for a speed hut gauge, have you tied that to fix the jumping issue?
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Whiteguyphil screwed with this post 07-16-2014 at 01:54 AM Reason: added link, clarity
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:29 AM   #584
batoutoflahonda
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Yeah, thought about a resistor. But I think that would just change current flow. The problem seems to be the rate at which the signal is either out putted (is that a word?) or how the signal rate is processed at the speedo. So if I just change the the amount of the current, the rate or pulses at which it is transmitted or precessed will stay the same. I haven't tried using the wheel sensor, but if I get around to it I may. Or scrap it and go with that motohut gauge. I went with the acewell because the tach is nice for tuning the bike.
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Old 07-17-2014, 06:44 AM   #585
wmtunate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda View Post
Yeah, thought about a resistor. But I think that would just change current flow. The problem seems to be the rate at which the signal is either out putted (is that a word?) or how the signal rate is processed at the speedo. So if I just change the the amount of the current, the rate or pulses at which it is transmitted or precessed will stay the same. I haven't tried using the wheel sensor, but if I get around to it I may. Or scrap it and go with that motohut gauge. I went with the acewell because the tach is nice for tuning the bike.
I think a simple RC lowpass filter would be a better option to smooth out the signal. Some experimentation would be needed to find appropriate values for the resistor and capacitor.

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