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Old 01-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #46
bmwhacker
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Location: MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm




Above are the table of how to match the color wires plus the "pin" number to be able to test whether this will work with your harness. Note that the pins seem to be common to both my /6 and 1981-vintage wiring harnesses. BMW has used a common color/wiring system (which actually is a common Euro-designated color scheme) which you should be able to transpose as necessary to the different airhead wiring harnesses (harnii? ...)

I guess one cannot cut and paste a Word document, so I scanned and saved as a .jpg. Hopefully you will be able to "steal" the photo in a large enough format to be able to save it and read it.

Feel free to PM me with your email address and I will gladly email you the Wrod document in ".doc" format.



NOTE: As noted in the scanned document, the little triangle (gen warning light) does not work, due to the different way that BMW uses the gen-light as part of the alternator-excitation circuit.

It is hard to explain unless you have been into the wiring and understand the BMW system, but essentially, the gen-light is "on" when the green/black wire has +12vDC (ignition "on", but bike not running) and the blue wire has no power yet. This provides a small current THROUGH the filament that excites the alternator field, and once the engine is running with an excited alternator, the blue wire has "it's own" 12vDC, cancelling out the green/black 12vDC, and the light goes out.... Simple and effective, but there is no way to wire this function into the Acewell since there is no way to get the blue wire to the negative side of the indicator: Acewell uses battery ground as the negative side.

I bypassed this problem, as noted above, by picking up the blue and the black/green from the harness and running the two of them to a separate indicator. That is the red light underneath the Acewell.....below:


It functions as it does on the BMW pod: inition "on" and light comes on, start and blip the engine, and the light goes out. Simple, effective.

I think that, unless someone clever comes up with a way to use the internal gen-light function, I would order the unit without the gen-light, and use the separate indicator, again.

Still, could not be more satisfied with the unit, the way it is built, and the way that it is working.

Mounted my Acewell speedo today and started to sort out my wiring.....sat down with your info and double checked to my 1974 wiring harness....all looks good except that mine was a mechanical tach.....When picking up your "unswitched" clock power (red) which terminal in the headlight pod did you tap to? Your work shown here sure is making my life easier!!!!! I'll buy you a beer or two if we ever cross paths!!!!!!!
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Old 01-16-2010, 08:50 PM   #47
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PS.....I used the existing BMW gauge mount after some modifications (cutting / bending) also has some (old /kinda stiff) rubber mounting grommets so it might reduce a little vibration.......I'm using a /5 steering friction damper on an Earls Fork so had to clear the /5 friction damper knob. Couldn't do a handlebar mount like you did as the damper knob is in the way.......so far so good.......I'm building a "Rat BMW sidecar tug" so don't want anything to look too pretty. Maybe I'll try to get a photo or two up tomorrow.
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:12 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Mounted my Acewell speedo today and started to sort out my wiring.....sat down with your info and double checked to my 1974 wiring harness....all looks good except that mine was a mechanical tach.....When picking up your "unswitched" clock power (red) which terminal in the headlight pod did you tap to? Your work shown here sure is making my life easier!!!!! I'll buy you a beer or two if we ever cross paths!!!!!!!
I too will be mounting one on my /6 with mechanical clock, some day.... Regarding the tach hookup: in may be mistaken (moi?...!!!) but I would try the following...

The tach "signal" for the electronic ignition is the equivalent of the points signal for the points bikes... i.e. the "hot" wire to the coil(s). Your two coils are wired in series in way that fires each coil. One wire comes from the harness (actually, the points), and then jumps over to the other coil. Thus, on the coil with two wires, tap into the terminal that does not have a wire going to the other coil.

Otherwise, you can wrap the Acewell pickup around one of the sparkplug high tension leads, as the describe in the instructions.

My preference, by far, would be to use the coil pickup.



So, try it, and let us know whether that is right, and if it is, I can thank you for figuring it out for MY /6....!!! and we can buy each other a beer....

oops... re: red wire: any place that is convenient will do, either the circuit board or the switch terminal.
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:40 PM   #49
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
I too will be mounting one on my /6 with mechanical clock, some day.... Regarding the tach hookup: in may be mistaken (moi?...!!!) but I would try the following...

The tach "signal" for the electronic ignition is the equivalent of the points signal for the points bikes... i.e. the "hot" wire to the coil(s). Your two coils are wired in series in way that fires each coil. One wire comes from the harness (actually, the points), and then jumps over to the other coil. Thus, on the coil with two wires, tap into the terminal that does not have a wire going to the other coil.

Otherwise, you can wrap the Acewell pickup around one of the sparkplug high tension leads, as the describe in the instructions.

My preference, by far, would be to use the coil pickup.



So, try it, and let us know whether that is right, and if it is, I can thank you for figuring it out for MY /6....!!! and we can buy each other a beer....

oops... re: red wire: any place that is convenient will do, either the circuit board or the switch terminal.

Success today. ...got all the wiring figured out and only had three BMW harness wires left over!...1) the brake fluid level warning light which the Acewell has no light for......... 2) ended up with a white / black stripe wire which does not appear on any of my diagrams...it was a hot wire which activated with the key switch. Simply sealed it up and taped it in the loom.......3) and then the dual turn signal indicator...I did as the "author" and brought the left / right signal leads in individually....everything worked as it should.....rigged a seperate temporary wire for the "gen" light to make sure things functioned properly.
Will need to figure out the speedometer pickup assembly still....a couple of photos in this thread have given me some direction......



Had to be a little creative to clear the /5 friction damper I have on this rig....simply shortened the existing gauge mount and bent it a bit downward to gain the angle I wanted.....then fabricated a couple of spacers to gain the clearance height I needed for the damper knob. This stays in line with the "Rat" look I'm leaning towards.....The knarly looking wire / light to the left is a temporary "gen" light. I'll make a bracket for a red one and mount it off to the side....This thing is a "Rat" bike but the temporary "gen" light is even a too bit ratty for me...



Nice, simple, clean looking gauge.............I temporarily wired the tach using the "wrap" method prescribed....seemed pretty erratic so I'll hook into the coil as the author describes.....


I've been assembling this thing from parts and pieces from multiple donors for the past year, from the raw frame and up, and sometimes down .......should be ready to roll in a month or two....(?) I even rode it up the street and back today for its' maiden voyage (50 yds.) , albiet a little prematurely......(worn out, square front tire with 10 or so lbs. of air....)





This thing has dual discs with pretty tight areas so looks like I'll be utilizing one of the right side brake disc bolts and mounting the speedo pickup to a spot right behind the axle.
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:53 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwhacker
Success today. snip


snip






snipagain





Nice! I was on the other thread and thinking of asking for a shot of the front end of the bike... I could see the Earles and wanted to see more of the brake....

DO let us know about the wire-to-the-coil method.



Note: I don't know if I mentioned calibrating the speedo in the thread... but I did it by trial and error and a known quantity. I looked up the RPM/speed chart, and figured out exactly how fast I should be going for, say, 3000rpm.

I then set the Acewell up so that I could easily read the RPM and the speed (both are digital readouts), and then did the trial=amd-erro part: adjust the circumference number up or down until the speed readout is where it should be at that given rpm. I think it took four or five stop-and-goes.... Read it, stop the bike and open the menu and change the number, then go. Repeat as necessary!

Good luck... bike is looking great!


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Old 01-18-2010, 07:52 PM   #51
bmwhacker
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Installed the permanent generator light tonight...was able to find a little 5/16" diameter LED light....headlight shell had the room so drilled the shell (gasp) and mounted there.....looks ok....

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Old 01-18-2010, 08:17 PM   #52
Glaze
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Question

Love the Acewell look and will probably be getting one myself. Do any of you guys know if there is a complete and updated wiring kit for these bikes. I have a 1978 R100/7 that I would like to have completely rewired with all new more modern stuff.
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Old 01-19-2010, 07:30 PM   #53
bpeckm OP
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What do you have in mind?.... "new more modern stuff" like what? The wiring loom is simply a collection of wires that could be used/adapted for a lot of different things on a bike...

There are also a lot of sub-harnesses on the bikes: for each of the perch/switches, for the various ignition systems as well as charging systems, the turn signals etc.

Fellow ADV'r wirewrkr is, as might be guessed, available for custom loom work, and any good electrician would be able to get things working with a non-standard loom as well...

Whatcha thinkin....??

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Old 01-19-2010, 07:43 PM   #54
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Nice! I was on the other thread and thinking of asking for a shot of the front end of the bike... I could see the Earles and wanted to see more of the brake....

DO let us know about the wire-to-the-coil method.



Note: I don't know if I mentioned calibrating the speedo in the thread... but I did it by trial and error and a known quantity. I looked up the RPM/speed chart, and figured out exactly how fast I should be going for, say, 3000rpm.

I then set the Acewell up so that I could easily read the RPM and the speed (both are digital readouts), and then did the trial=amd-erro part: adjust the circumference number up or down until the speed readout is where it should be at that given rpm. I think it took four or five stop-and-goes.... Read it, stop the bike and open the menu and change the number, then go. Repeat as necessary!

Good luck... bike is looking great!



I'll also go with your recommendations playing with the speedo calibration.....I've been told that the Earls Fork pictured is a BMW /2 unit which has been modified with different shock mounts, fender, etc. (?).....The disc brakes are a Japanese type so came from a donor in years back and the mounts were fabricated......The original Donor Tug (wrecked from a hack side swipe) was built by a guy in the S.F. Bay area years ago according to the P.O. All I used from the donor tug was the sidecar sub frame, front end and the engine (was rusted tight).....
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Old 03-22-2010, 08:09 AM   #55
makazica
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ACE 2900 on a BMW R69S

Cheers gentleman!

I have a friend that owns a 1960 R69S and he would like to fit a ACE 2900 on it just to have a tachometer.

As he is an older guy not very into computers I'm trying to help him. Electricity is not my thing so please bare with me on these questions.

How do you get a signal for the tach from a boxer, where and how do you connect the wire supplied from acewell to get a correct reading?

Pics would be good.....

Here's one for you...

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Old 04-01-2010, 12:50 PM   #56
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Ran across this cool little gadget:

http://www.boxxerparts.de/xtcshop/pr...2V-Boxer-.html
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Old 04-01-2010, 02:04 PM   #57
MIOB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by batoutoflahonda
Ran across this cool little gadget:

http://www.boxxerparts.de/xtcshop/pr...2V-Boxer-.html
Hey, that's a new one! I used (modified) a Suzuki cable for it, that was 13,- euros cheaper ;)

Made a short vid to show all the functions off the Acewell a while ago, but didn't post it since the cam was a bit out of focus. Anyway, here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACb7UUtmr04
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Old 05-25-2010, 09:45 AM   #58
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Hi everybody....

I am installing a trailtech vapor on my G/s......

and keeping a seperate light for generator....

do you know if the new light-lamp has to be something specific on Amp or can I use any micro-led lamp....???

thank you....
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:45 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVARTH
Hi everybody....

I am installing a trailtech vapor on my G/s......

and keeping a seperate light for generator....

do you know if the new light-lamp has to be something specific on Amp or can I use any micro-led lamp....???

thank you....
I don't think an LED will work, as they require a specific polarity (pos to one side neg to the other)... has to be a basic lamp as far as i know. i'm doing the same and used a little lamp from RadioShak
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:11 AM   #60
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Wow, what a great thread. I was researching adding a new gauge to my r65 and came across the Acewell separately, then found this thread this morning.

I'm curious to know about the speedo cable that actually attaches to the gearbox like the stock setup. MIOB, you said you used a modified Suzuki cable... would you mind explaining the modifications, as I'd like to pursue that route than the magnet/rotor option.
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