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Old 07-12-2013, 02:34 PM   #211
JetSpeed
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Just replaced the rear flange on my 05 yesterday and was wondering what the fiber part of the spacer was for, it looks like it may be to protect the drive bearing/seal from heat during the installation, the metal part fits snug and obviously will keep most contamination out.

My flange swap was a bitch, not much trouble getting the old one (4 cracks in wheel lug portion) off but after thoroughly cleaning the shaft and heating the new steel unit in the oven @400F for an hour, I was only able to get it about halfway on before it stopped, had to build a makeshift installer from thread-stock and a bunch of hardware, and then it took cooling the inside of the shaft with dry ice and heating the flange with a propane torch half a dozen times to get it to seat all the way.
I was having visions of having to remove the drive and get a BMW dealer or machine shop involved, it sure wasn't as easy for me as some have reported.

Right about here is when all the good time stopped and things got difficult.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:37 PM   #212
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JetSpeed View Post
Just replaced the rear flange on my 05 yesterday and was wondering what the fiber part of the spacer was for, it looks like it may be to protect the sealed bearing/seal from heat during the installation, the metal part fits snug and obviously will keep most contamination out.

My flange swap was a bitch, not much trouble getting the old one (4 cracks in wheel lug portion) off but after thoroughly cleaning the shaft and heating the new steel unit in the oven @400F for an hour, I was only able to get it about halfway one before it stopped, had to build a makeshift installer from thread-stock and a bunch of hardware, and then it took cooling the inside of the shaft with dry ice and heating the flange with a propane torch half a dozen times to get it to seat all the way.
I was having visions of having to remove the drive and get a BMW dealor machine shop involved, it sure wasn't as easy for me as some have reported.

Right about here is when all the good time stopped and things got difficult.

Glad, sorry for you, to see I am not the only one who had trouble getting the new one on.

Jim
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:01 AM   #213
Dan Căta
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OK, so here are the results, 1 month later.

Got the new flange and spacer ring, installed the spacer, heated the new flange and put it in. The rear wheel had some play after the install, but not as much as the old flange.

Some play would later result in much more play, so that could not be good. It was not. 500 kms later, the wheel had the same amount of play as with the old aluminum cracked flange...

So I had some aluminum electrodes(sort of like soldering stuff) that you heat the part you want to put the liquid aluminum on and get a thin layer of coating on the flange spline surface. I had nothing that would get me the needed 400 degrees so I went to a local welding shop, and have them do the work.

The most experienced guy there did not like the solution :) Good thing we tested that on a raw piece of aluminum first, instead of the flange... The needed heat would first destroy the aluminum piece, rather than to get the electrode to melt. So it was not the solution...

Instead, the welder gave me this paste like grey stuff, 2 plastic jars, each containing something (that I still don't know what) that needed to be mixed together in 3/4 parts of the main product and 1/4 parts of the second (perhaps a catalyst?), apply it on the surface and have it dry for 48 hours.

Since it was the last thing I could try, I did it. Cleaned everything good, put in the spacer ring, then applied the grey mixture on the FD splines, put in the new upgraded flange and left it untouched for 48 hrs, as told to. (the flange did not need centering, since it was not that loose on the splines; in case it would need, I would have used a thin copper wire and have that work as a spacer to equally distribute the difference between the flange and the splines).

Then I left for a 2 week trip to Nordkapp :)

In the meantime, the owner of the bike also went for a 5k kms trip trough Europe and the flange still looks solid, there is no play in the rear wheel and it looks strong.

Just wanted to share this with everyone else :)

Thanks,
Dan Cata
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:47 AM   #214
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:21 AM   #215
psychohawk
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So I have a question about this ... mine has cracks on the rotor bolts and it's the aluminum flange ... my mechanic loaned me an extra flange to test on, seeing I'm also a weldor ... haven't touched it yet because I keep going back/forth on best way ... which I believe is as follows:
1) plug weld rotor bolts
2) drill/tap new rotor bolts

I also thought about:
1) grinding cracks
2) reinforcing/hard surfacing cracks

Any experience with this?
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:06 PM   #216
Penfold99
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Are these things cracking due to normal use? or are you guys (or dealers and repair facilities) using impact wrenches on your wheel/rotor bolts?

Dave
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:07 PM   #217
Emoto
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Are these things cracking due to normal use? or are you guys (or dealers and repair facilities) using impact wrenches on your wheel/rotor bolts?

Dave
Atlanta, GA
2005 R1200GS
Normal use.
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Old 08-19-2013, 12:27 PM   #218
mtrdrms
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Just normal use. I just replaced the flange on mine (gave the dealer my final drive and had them press it in). 60k miles and All brake bolt holes were cracked. That with the new driveshaft and it was an expensive day!. My bike had an output shaft seal leak and I thought I was gonna dig in there and just replace a seal. Yeah right! I recommend everyone inspect this flange often.
Andy
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Old 08-28-2013, 01:59 PM   #219
Plane Dr
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So I had seen this thread pop up here and there flipped through it. Well I just had a new rear mounted on the rim and figured I'd inspect mine. So after cleaning it up I discovered all the brake ears are cracked and 4 of 5 wheel lugs.

I picked the bike up (2005 GS but midish 04 build) with 25k miles, and now have more than double that. This would be the third tire I've mounted. Also the bike had the rear rotor replaced at 18k by a dealer and needs a new one again.

Other than all the above crappy stuff I just put on new pads to nurse the rotor to spring. Looks like $500 in parts, and a bit of reading. So by the time I'm done with the big service (brake bleed etc) BMW should be able to certify me as a BMW mech. I would like to thank Jim for the invaluable assistance he has provided, albeit unknowingly.

That all said if this thing didn't see 2-3x the use of my other bikes I would question the maintenance it needs.
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:29 PM   #220
rebake
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Pissed

Last week it was u-joints on my 05 gs.Today i took the rear wheel off and found cracks on the disc mounting ears.Looks like i know what i will be doing Monday.Bike has 79,800 miles on it.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #221
Plane Dr
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Max BMW had parts to me in a week. It was $340 ish for parts.

I took the old one off before it got too hot this morning. It turns out my 05 (04 build) is an early hub with the pressed in nuts so no real surprise it's cracked. A closer look shows EVERY lug, wheel and disk, is cracked.

I got an axle puller and a front drive hub puller from autozone. The front hub puller bolt pattern is too small but I needed the bolt to use on the axle puller. They typically send the axle puller with a slide hammer. I didn't like that idea. I did have to make an insert for the tool to press on. I used 1/4 Aluminium. The insert took longer to make than pulling the hub.

A smaller red bull can (8 oz?) slides right inside the axle. So I filled 2 with water and froze them. I split but the other worked like a charm.

Ill rejig the puller to try and use it like a press and Tomorrow comes the install! Ill try and take a picture of what I come up with if I can get it to work.
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Old 09-07-2013, 12:45 PM   #222
JetSpeed
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Ill rejig the puller to try and use it like a press and Tomorrow comes the install! Ill try and take a picture of what I come up with if I can get it to work.
This is where it got fun for me, I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience.
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Old 09-07-2013, 01:10 PM   #223
rebake
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I just used my old single burner camp stove to heat my old flange as a test.About four minutes to get 400 degree reading on my laser thermometer.Looks like that will be the way to go when i get my new one.Ed
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:05 AM   #224
JetSpeed
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I used the oven set at 400F for an hour and it went on about halfway, getting it on the rest of the way took a couple of hours.
I hope yours goes on easier.
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:09 AM   #225
Plane Dr
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So install elapsed time 2 hours. That's with coffee and coffee only because it is 7 am. Beer soon....

I used 12 inches of 1/2 inch ready rod 5/8's nuts and some bits. This is with the axle puller. It worked great. Every time it got hard I touched it with a bit more heat. The metal disk you see in the one picture is the same disk I used when I was "pulling" it now just has a hole in it. I had around 1/64 of exposed spline left but the snap ring seated so piss on it. It was starting too heat the axle too much so I quit.

I have no discernible gap at the snap ring and at the disk lugs I have 2-3 thousands run out ( I think). I'll call it a deal.

I changed the oil yesterday so I'll install the pads, disk and wheel later. Clean up time then maybe a beer, even at 10 am.





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