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Old 12-03-2009, 09:39 PM   #46
Colebatch OP
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weather ... part 2

But my good friend Arnaud did the same road solo, a month later ... and he did it in the rain. It took him twice as long, he had a few tough water crossings to deal with, and he didn't have a lot of fun! (looks like he wasnt the only one who had a tough time in the mud)



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Colebatch screwed with this post 12-09-2009 at 09:32 PM
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
Now I have ridden a few collapsed Siberian bridges in my time .... such as this:


and this:


But that's just not possible at Kyubeme, ... This more complete view will offer some clues as to why:
Glad to see Terry managed to hook up with you! We were on the Dong Chun ferry from Sok Cho, South Korea with him and hung out in Vladivostok for a couple days.

I'm jealous! Tim and I really wanted to do the Road of Bones while we were there but couldn't find reasonable way (cost or time) to get from Vlad to Magadan Looks like we missed out!

Cory

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Old 12-04-2009, 12:02 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by GNP77
Glad to see Terry managed to hook up with you! We were on the Dong Chun ferry from Sok Cho, South Korea with him and hung out in Vladivostok for a couple days.
Thanks for the freeze dried food gentlemen. We ate them when totally fu@ked for food in the middle of the BAM road (post to come at a later date).
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:40 AM   #49
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Fuelling at Kyubeme

Anything moving in these parts visits the fuel depot at Kyubeme. Its really the only thing left in Kyubeme. Tony caught a flat tyre between the bridge and the fuel depot and we ended up spending a good hour or two there fixing one of the bikes and chatting to the guy who ran it.

He could remember 4 bikes passing through here so far this year - all polish ... a group of 3 poles and then a week later, a lone pole. I like to keep well informed as to who does what in extreme Siberia, so I put out the feelers. I kinda knew straight away the group of 3 was the Motogryf expedition on TT600s - who later hooked up with Motosyberia 2.0. But it took me some time to track down the lone pole. Turns out is was a guy called Marek Grzywna on an Africa Twin.

The two UAZiks passed through about an hour behind us. They too refuelled here.

As we were packing things up and thinking of hitting the road again, a third vehicle could be heard. It crept up the bushes by the river bank and trundles into the fuel depot. It was a tracked vehicle about the size of a Hummer, popular in the Russian extreme north. It's a GAZ 71 ... in Russia they call it a "Tanketka" ... and it is basically a mini tank ... an tank-ette.



If you want to buy one, they aren't that expensive. About 10 grand (USD) new from memory ... comes with about a 3 litre diesel engine.
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Colebatch screwed with this post 12-08-2009 at 06:45 PM
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Old 12-04-2009, 05:44 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colebatch
It was a tracked vehicle about the size of a Hummer, popular in the Russian extreme north. It's a GAZ 71 ... in Russia they call it a "Tanketka" ... and it is basically a mini tank ... an tank-ette.

If you want to buy one, they aren't that expensive. About 10 grand (USD) new from memory ... comes with about a 3 litre diesel engine.
Oohhh! I like that!

Nice Report.
'Tanks' a lot for posting.
Q~
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:12 AM   #51
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What model is your BMW, looks like an X Challenge with a lot of mods???
Congrats, amazing trip...
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:12 AM   #52
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GREAT BIKE!
That's the kit from TOURATECH!
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:47 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Questor
Oohhh! I like that!

Nice Report.
'Tanks' a lot for posting.
Q~
Having a GAZ 71 parked in your driveway would certainly shut up the ponce in his new Hummer next door who thought he was all rugged and macho, and felt other vehicles should get out of his way.

Here's another view for you then:

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Old 12-04-2009, 08:48 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by mad4bikes
What model is your BMW, looks like an X Challenge with a lot of mods???
Yep, good guess ... for more detail, see here;
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524638
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Old 12-04-2009, 03:24 PM   #55
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it was 10:30pm when we left Kyubeme ... it never really got pitch black up that far north, but went into a kind of twilight phase between about 11pm and 3am.

Camping is not a lot of fun in far northern siberia so we wanted to push on to the first town since Tyoply Klyuch and get a hotel bed. It was going to be at least two or three more hours ride, depending on the road, so we hit the road north at speed.

This was now the old zimnik that the Russians had been working to improve. 2009 I believe is the first year its been passable, so we wanted to check it out. It was in good condition, new and relatively wide with a fast gravel surface. We settled on 120km/h (75mph) ... a bit of a risk in the semi darkness but we wanted to get a bed.

About an hour out of Kyubeme and we passed the two UAZiks ... one had a flat tyre and the other had stopped to help. There were more than enough bodies on hand to help so we just slowed down, tooted and waved, and rode on towards Ust Nera. We reached Ust Nera and settled into the only hotel in town about 1:30am

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Old 12-04-2009, 03:35 PM   #56
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Wasn't that bridge in "Long Way Round?"

So beautiful! Siberia I mean.
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Old 12-04-2009, 06:51 PM   #57
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Wheels

we woke at midday and prepared to hit the road out of Ust Nera. As soon as we stepped outside, we saw the UAZik of the moscow boys ... they must have got in very very late.

We werent going anywhere in a hurry either - Tony had picked up his second major wheel reshape in 24 hours. We had bashed his front wheel back into shape at the Kyubeme fuel depot, just 250km back, and now we needed to do it again. That high speed run on the brand new stretch of road last night wasnt as smooth as we thought. The Dakar's wheels were not holding up as well as the X-Challenges.

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Old 12-04-2009, 06:56 PM   #58
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Wheel Problems

Tony's flat tyre yesterday and 2 bad wheel dings in 24 hours were a indicator of things to come. Before we got to Magadan he would get 6 more flat tyres.

The XC had no problems at all.

Ust Nera was and still is a gold mining town. Back in the Gulag days, it was the biggest mining centre in the Kolyma and has the grim history to match that. The opening of the old Zimnik that we rode in the half darkness the previous night, has opened the door for travellers to visit the place.

Heading south-east between Ust-Nera and Artik:
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:02 PM   #59
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Ust Nera - Artik



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Old 12-04-2009, 07:05 PM   #60
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The Village of Artik

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