Fuel resistant glue

concours · 12-01-2009, 03:21 PM

I need to repair obsolete, defunct carburetor floats that are the brass type, and have corrosion right through them in several places. (I know, I've never seen that before either) and so far I know of contact cement and JB weld are rated for gasoline service... any others? any preference one over the other and why? Thanks!

RecycledRS · 12-01-2009, 04:41 PM

You will have to carefull not to make the floats too heavy (JB weld). I have repaired brass floats before by soldering them, but this was very difficult and also added weight to the float. If you can another float that you can adapt you may be farther ahead.

concours · 12-01-2009, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RecycledRS

You will have to carefull not to make the floats too heavy (JB weld). I have repaired brass floats before by soldering them, but this was very difficult and also added weight to the float. If you can another float that you can adapt you may be farther ahead.

of course is the weight... and long term fuel resistance. I've solder repaired them before as well, when they had a chafe through from contact or a crack. This corrosion is the craziest shit I've ever seen on brass. The aluminum bodies and bowls are PERFECTLY corrosion free... possible galvanic thing?

Reryder · 12-01-2009, 04:54 PM

Very thin brush-on epoxy works.
The type they use for making epoxy glass fibre, for repairing Airhead BMW fairings etc.

I have used it on old Harley cork floats that became "waterlogged" with petrol and on brass floats in ancient Amal carbs.

GreaseMonkey · 12-01-2009, 05:26 PM

Go to a stained glass supply store. They have some copper foil tape you can use to cover the holes, then solder the edges.

In regards to soldering, use a very fine solder and if possible a 40 watt iron with the smallest tip for it you can find. Wipe the seam with a Q tip and you can keep the weight down.

cagiva549 · 12-02-2009, 04:39 AM

This will be the one of the most important repairs you will ever undertake , not done right the bike will never run . done correctly you will never have to deal with it again . I would look in to having somebody build a new float assembly . Try to find floats similar in size then solder them to your float arms . Some experiminting my have to be done to get the correct float level . SEYA

concours · 12-02-2009, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagiva549

This will be the one of the most important repairs you will ever undertake , not done right the bike will never run . done correctly you will never have to deal with it again . I would look in to having somebody build a new float assembly . Try to find floats similar in size then solder them to your float arms . Some experiminting my have to be done to get the correct float level . SEYA

Thanks! As a professional mechanic, I undestand the importance here, normally I wouldn't waste my time and effort trying to repair them. FLING! over the shoulder they'd go... but.. the bike is not real valuable, I want to see if the engine is reasonably sound, before making any significant investment in parts. I remember Dad patching up lawnmower/minibike stuff with contact cement back when we had little money for parts. Just trying to get input from all the McGyver's here... what a GREAT resource for sharing!!

Sonex522 · 12-02-2009, 12:12 PM

I've used fuel tank repair epoxy to reattach supply and return lines that rusted off of a fuel pump. Still holding fine after a year.

concours · 12-02-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sonex522

I've used fuel tank repair epoxy to reattach supply and return lines that rusted off of a fuel pump. Still holding fine after a year.

That the LocTite stuff that comes in a two part flat ribbon? I remember using that on my old shitbox cars, lol it HELD!!

cagiva549 · 12-02-2009, 04:01 PM

Just leave the carb off and run the engine with starting fluid and see what it sounds like 30 seconds or so might give somewhat an idea weather to continue on with more serious repairs . I guess if its a kick start that could be a pain in the ass or foot . SEYA

Anorak · 12-02-2009, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cagiva549

Just leave the carb off and run the engine with starting fluid and see what it sounds like 30 seconds or so might give somewhat an idea weather to continue on with more serious repairs . I guess if its a kick start that could be a pain in the ass or foot . SEYA

Starting fluid is a bad idea. It will auto ignite at about 4:1 compression so it's going to be making all sorts of racket. Use carb cleaner that has toluene and other high octane components.

concours · 12-02-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anorak

Starting fluid is a bad idea. It will auto ignite at about 4:1 compression so it's going to be making all sorts of racket. Use carb cleaner that has toluene and other high octane components.

Pretty much just use it to wash spark plugs on misbehaving 2-strokes, lol

greenthumb · 12-05-2009, 10:51 PM

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm

Quote:

Seal-All Uses

• Distributor caps, interior panels, radiators, gaskets, transmission, carburetor floats, body and trunk leaks, battery cables and terminals, generators, tools, and much more.

concours · 12-06-2009, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenthumb

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm

COOL!! THIN consistancy... I like it!!

motorcyclefanatic · 12-06-2009, 04:46 PM

I've been using it for fuel related repairs for years. It works.

12-01-2009, 03:21 PM	#1
concours ^OP WFO for 41 years Joined: Dec 2008 Location: Kensington, NH USA Oddometer: 3,995	Fuel resistant glue I need to repair obsolete, defunct carburetor floats that are the brass type, and have corrosion right through them in several places. (I know, I've never seen that before either) and so far I know of contact cement and JB weld are rated for gasoline service... any others? any preference one over the other and why? Thanks! __________________ Too much is just barely enough..... 2007 Tiger 1050 2005 Royal Star Tour DeLuxe 1973 Yamaha TX750 1974 Norton 850 Commando Roadster

12-01-2009, 04:41 PM	#2
RecycledRS Along for the ride Joined: Nov 2008 Location: Vancouver Island Oddometer: 912	You will have to carefull not to make the floats too heavy (JB weld). I have repaired brass floats before by soldering them, but this was very difficult and also added weight to the float. If you can another float that you can adapt you may be farther ahead. __________________ __________________________________________ "There's a fine line between a skinning and a shearing"

12-01-2009, 04:54 PM	#4
Reryder Onward through the fog... Joined: Sep 2007 Location: Cairns, Oz Oddometer: 1,395	Very thin brush-on epoxy works. The type they use for making epoxy glass fibre, for repairing Airhead BMW fairings etc. I have used it on old Harley cork floats that became "waterlogged" with petrol and on brass floats in ancient Amal carbs. __________________ '77 Harley Ironhead 6,000 miles across Oz http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527966 Reryder (AKA Hopper) 1977 Harley Sportster 81 BMWR100RS 01 HONDA VFR800 99 SV650 Ancient Harley 45, Snortster (Sporty engine in a Norton), Norton Atlas, Honda 350/4, Ariel HS scrambler

12-01-2009, 05:26 PM	#5
GreaseMonkey Rhymes w/piecejunkie Joined: Jun 2006 Location: The only county in Illinois with no train tracks Oddometer: 4,765	Go to a stained glass supply store. They have some copper foil tape you can use to cover the holes, then solder the edges. In regards to soldering, use a very fine solder and if possible a 40 watt iron with the smallest tip for it you can find. Wipe the seam with a Q tip and you can keep the weight down. __________________ Grow a WW1 Victory Garden this year!

12-02-2009, 04:39 AM	#6
cagiva549 whats a cagiva Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Cypress Tx Oddometer: 2,454	This will be the one of the most important repairs you will ever undertake , not done right the bike will never run . done correctly you will never have to deal with it again . I would look in to having somebody build a new float assembly . Try to find floats similar in size then solder them to your float arms . Some experiminting my have to be done to get the correct float level . SEYA __________________ David H 00 Cagiva GC 04 9 fiddy 05 ST3 duck 07 KTM 450 EXC 86 Goldwing my geezer ride

12-02-2009, 12:12 PM	#8
Sonex522 zipper suited sun god Joined: Mar 2006 Location: Central Wisconsin Oddometer: 1,348	I've used fuel tank repair epoxy to reattach supply and return lines that rusted off of a fuel pump. Still holding fine after a year.

12-02-2009, 04:01 PM	#10
cagiva549 whats a cagiva Joined: Oct 2004 Location: Cypress Tx Oddometer: 2,454	Just leave the carb off and run the engine with starting fluid and see what it sounds like 30 seconds or so might give somewhat an idea weather to continue on with more serious repairs . I guess if its a kick start that could be a pain in the ass or foot . SEYA __________________ David H 00 Cagiva GC 04 9 fiddy 05 ST3 duck 07 KTM 450 EXC 86 Goldwing my geezer ride

12-06-2009, 04:46 PM	#15
motorcyclefanatic The name says it all Joined: Jul 2007 Location: Christmas, FL; Blue Ridge, Ga Oddometer: 680	+ 1 on the Seal-All I've been using it for fuel related repairs for years. It works. __________________ http://www.johnnystoybox.com

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