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Old 12-01-2009, 06:54 PM   #1
Merchant Mariner OP
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WR450 Carburetor rebuild

Can anyone help me with some advice on rebuilding my 2005 WR450F carburetor? Here is the background/story: It is basically stock right now (including exhaust). I will be moding the exhaust later, but for now I want/need to get the carb fixed up and dialed in. The bike does not want to idle cold at all, have to keep the idle speed cranked way up. When at low engine speeds it makes a clattering noise and is sluggish to respond to throttle. Also it surges when just maintaining constant throttle. Not sure if this is normal, but I know the carb is in desperate need of work so I wanted to get that fixed before I went chasing the clattering noise. I figured if the fuel delivery was off it could attribute to the sluggish response and noise.
Is there a rebuild kit out there that will just come with everything I need to do a total rebuild on the carb? I haven’t been able to find one. If not, can someone at least fill me in on what exactly I should replace?
Appreciate any help I can get.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:56 AM   #2
simon@vic
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you will most likely NOT need any parts (unless your re-jetting it)


if your not confident cleaning and rebuilding it then remove it and bring it into a shop for a "full carb clean" should be charged about 1-1.25H inf you had them just the carb!
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon@vic
you will most likely NOT need any parts (unless your re-jetting it)


if your not confident cleaning and rebuilding it then remove it and bring it into a shop for a "full carb clean" should be charged about 1-1.25H inf you had them just the carb!
Good advice.........

Plugged pilot jet will make it not idle and stumble at low RPM.

While your in there, replce the o-ring around the needle & seat.

Don't think it needs a rebuild, it's to new, have you done the throttle stop mod and cut the gray wire ???
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose Dog
Good advice.........

Plugged pilot jet will make it not idle and stumble at low RPM.

While your in there, replce the o-ring around the needle & seat.

Don't think it needs a rebuild, it's to new, have you done the throttle stop mod and cut the gray wire ???
Plan to do the throttle stop while I'm in there along with the AIS removal, Grey wire, and Zip-ty Fuel/air mixture needle. When you say o-ring around the needle and seat are you talking about the fuel/air needle? If so that should come with the new zip-ty one right?

Does the float get damaged and need to be replaced, or the accelerator pump?
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merchant Mariner

Does the float get damaged and need to be replaced, or the accelerator pump?
Just take a peek under the accelerator cover, sometimes you might need a new diaphragm(usually only due to carb cleaner,lol), and I think there is an o ring in there. I've never had any damage to a float.
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merchant Mariner
Plan to do the throttle stop while I'm in there along with the AIS removal, Grey wire, and Zip-ty Fuel/air mixture needle. When you say o-ring around the needle and seat are you talking about the fuel/air needle? If so that should come with the new zip-ty one right?

Does the float get damaged and need to be replaced, or the accelerator pump?
The float needle & seat............pull the pin out of the plastic float, remove the float needle and float, the brass seat has a small phillips head screw holding it in the carb body, pull that brass piece out, there's an o-ring around it, you'll need to order one from Yamaha.

These are prone to drying up and leaking, making the bike flood when it sits, also causes fuel to leak into the crank case and diluting the motor oil.

This is a problem I see with Yamahas alot, including mine in the past, it can also leak out the vent hoses and become a fire hazzard as well.
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Old 12-02-2009, 01:34 PM   #7
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Sounds like you don't know anything 'bout carbs! That's ok, it ain't rocket science. You should not need any parts. ( Although Moose Dog may have something with the needle seat "o" ring, between my wife, my son, and I, we have had 6 WR's and I have not had an issue with it, but I may get one for a spare now ! )Take every little thing apart, lay it out on a clean surface so you get everything back zactly like it was. Two very important items. #1) Be careful not to bend the float, this is how float level is set. With the float bowl off hold the carb upside down, measure the distance from the carb base to a reference point on the float and make sure it is the same measurement when reassembling it. ( assuming the carb is not running over or starving now ) #2) Before removing the air screw (the thingy you are getting from Zip-ty, the fuel/air mixture needle) turn it in all the way, and count the turns within 1/4 turn, so it or the new one can be put in zactly the same setting. The Zip-ty one is a good idea as the original one is a bitch to get at to adjust. Other than that just blow carb cleaner, WD 40, or contact cleaner, and compressed air through all the little holes. Be sure to remove the pilot and main jet and blow through them too, hold them to a light to make sure they are clean. Put it back together and start the bike up and warn it up. Now adjust the idle so it will stay running, slower the better, turn the air screw in or out till it idles best, readjust the idle. Now adjust the air screw in or out a little (1/4 turn) at a time till it has good throttle response off idle. Go ride!
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Old 12-03-2009, 08:57 AM   #8
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Great advice! thank you!
And no, I don't really know anything about carbs. I have never really touched one, but do have pretty good mechanical aptitude. What I don't have is the money to have someone else fix it for me.
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Old 12-03-2009, 11:02 AM   #9
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Has anyone used the AIS removal kit? It says in that the kit comes with an adjustable needle, maybe someone can tell me which needle it is???? I'm a feeling pretty inept everything about the carb is needle and jet. Lots of needles and lots of jets........Just not sure what I am talking about anymore.

What I want/think I need to replace is the float needle seat o-ring (suggested by Moose Dog). Is this the same needle that comes in the AIS kit? Put in the adjustable fuel/air "needle". Replace the Throttle stop with the YZ (supposedly included in the AIS removal kit). and replace the pilot jet (also a 48 is supposed to be included in the AIS kit) like Moose Dog said, maybe my idling problem. Also, since I am not the original owner of this bike, and it has been messed with, I want to make sure that it has not been rejetted for an unplugged exhaust, then had the OE muffler put back on when he sold it! There is the main jet and the pilot jet, any other jets I should know about and check?
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:46 PM   #10
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Main jet, pilot jet, also a accelerator pump jet, but put that out of your mind for now. Check the main and pilot jet # when you take the carb apart the stock # are listed in the owners manual, if they are stock you know it ain't been messed with, if they ain't then you know where you need to start with a stock bike. FYI Two needles you need to worry about. 1) float needle and seat, connected to float regulates fuel in. 2) air needle regulates air fuel mix at idle, under carb replace this with Zip-ty unit. Also main needle, goes up and down inside the main jet. Regulates the mix at med throttle. Leave it alone for now. Go on tear in to it, ain't no big deal.
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merchant Mariner
Has anyone used the AIS removal kit? It says in that the kit comes with an adjustable needle, maybe someone can tell me which needle it is???? I'm a feeling pretty inept everything about the carb is needle and jet. Lots of needles and lots of jets........Just not sure what I am talking about anymore.

What I want/think I need to replace is the float needle seat o-ring (suggested by Moose Dog). Is this the same needle that comes in the AIS kit? Put in the adjustable fuel/air "needle". Replace the Throttle stop with the YZ (supposedly included in the AIS removal kit). and replace the pilot jet (also a 48 is supposed to be included in the AIS kit) like Moose Dog said, maybe my idling problem. Also, since I am not the original owner of this bike, and it has been messed with, I want to make sure that it has not been rejetted for an unplugged exhaust, then had the OE muffler put back on when he sold it! There is the main jet and the pilot jet, any other jets I should know about and check?
Lets start you off with buying a factory Yamaha service manual, it will pay for its self with 1 hour of shop labor, even changing the oil on that bike is complicated if not done before.

With that said, you'll need a set of metric allen t-handles to loosen the clamps on the carb boots.

Don't need to completely remove carb, leave throttle cables alone, just pull the carb out enough to remove the 4 bowl screws (allen heads), remove the long skinney jet, it's the pilot jet.

You'll need to buy a can of carb cleaner and spray it through the pilot jet (wear safety glasses please), then blow out with compressed air, repeat.

Blow out the rest of the jets the same way, turn the fuel screw in clockwise until lightly seated, back out 2 full turns.

Remove throttle stop screw, hacksaw off the tip back to the threads, throttle should now open fully, re-install carb and ride.

Don't think you need any kits, the bike should run fine just doing this, please buy or download a service manual from Thumper Talk.com.

Good luck,
Moose Dog
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Old 12-04-2009, 07:52 AM   #12
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Thanks a million for the advice and help. Between Moose Dog and Sieg I think I might actually be able to pull this off!

Fuel/air adjustment needle is on order, along with the AIS removal kit. The Service manual is already in the garage! (maybe I should stick it under my pillow and hope osmossis will smarten me up before I start this )

I will check back in as this project happens and report, hopefully with good news! Can't wiat for the parts to show up and get that bike running the way it should
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