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Old 12-08-2005, 09:00 AM   #76
snowrider
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1984 is a tariff year, they did lots of goofy stuff like that then. Before that UJMs mostly had 17" rear and 19" front, with a few models having 16" rear.
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a 1984 CB700S.
The 16 inch wheels.
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Old 12-08-2005, 10:05 AM   #77
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My overnight experiment failed but only partially. I took bailing wire and wrapped it around the front wheel and tire, then tenstioned it with a real rubber bungee, not the elastic and Nylon kind. Once clockwise, once counter with the wire.

When I got out there the roads were dry so, much to my shagrin, the wires broke. I think if it were more icy or snowy they would have not broken and i'd be hooking up like Jeremy McGrath out there. Back to the drawing board.

BTW it was -10F but I didn't get a picture to submit as evidence.
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Old 12-08-2005, 04:48 PM   #78
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Thanks for the replys about the KLR. I'm looking to get a cheap dual sport, would be a plus if it was good in the winter.

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One possible problem for using this as a snow bike, if yours is the same model: The 16 inch wheels. I didn't find a lot of options for street rubber, and I can't imagine that the story is much better for dual sport tires or knobbies.
Thats the biggest reason my '82 CB750C is under a tarp in the yard. The cheap cheap Kenda street tires I got on her don't even hold the best traction on dry pavement in good condtions! And until I read this thread and starting poking around AdvRider.com didn't even think it was realistic to ride daily year round without a side hack.
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Old 12-09-2005, 04:51 PM   #79
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Studded Bicycle Tires

Yesterday evening I picked up some studded tires for my bicycle. The bike is a "hybrid" -- mostly a road bike, but with some mountain-bike-like features like a front suspension and slightly wider tires that make it more tractable on crappy roads, when hopping curbs, etc. The tires I got were Nokian W106s, meant for road-oriented bikes like mine. Each tire has 106 carbide-tipped studs in a zigzag pattern towards the center of the tread.

This afternoon I spooned on the new tires and went for a ride in the aftermath of today's snowstorm. It was a blast! On ice, hard-packed snow, ice, and wet pavement, the tires grip well, and add minimal rolling resistance compared to normal tires on dry pavement. On crumbly stuff like half-packed snow and and refrozen snowblower droppings, the back wanted to fishtail a bit, but dealing with that was kinda fun. Deep snow was pretty much out of the question, and the local bike path wasn't plowed, so I ended up spending most time on the streets. I'm already pretty comfortable bicycling in traffic, and with cagers more cautious because of the snow, it was actually better than usual.

To try to bring this back on-topic for a motorcycle site: Nokian's main business seems to be snow tires for cars, and I seem to recall seeing some factory-studded dirtbike knobbies from them, though I can't find a link for them, now. A motorcycle equivalent to the W106s would seem like a great option, to me.
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Old 12-09-2005, 08:38 PM   #80
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Bought myself a blaze orange snowmobile suit at the thrift store and took the plunge today... was cold! Had to jump start the CB750C ratbike. 6 degrees farhnheit, but I had a blast.
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Old 12-11-2005, 10:36 PM   #81
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Hey Dysco,

Great writeup! good advice i'd say.

I made it through last winter on the XT225 with metal screws in the DOT knobby tires, but don't overdo it, just stager one every 6" or so or you loose pavement traction. It surprizing how few you need, but it's up to you to decide how safe you are on dry pavement. I was fine. Adjust the number of screws, for how many loose screws you have in your head. Speaking of, use 1/2" screws so if they fall out they won't puncture a car tire. Good Karma and all. I only lost 2 screws all winter, although people say I have several more loose screws.

And if you can't crash, don't ride in the snow. Actually that should be the first sentence.
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Old 12-15-2005, 11:58 AM   #82
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I bet your dad didn't need any fancy screws in the tires!



Or a foot shifter.


































Ha.
Seriously though I'm going to try some of those fancy studs.
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Old 12-15-2005, 07:47 PM   #83
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I took the cb750 rat out from under the tarp and have been riding it thanks partly to the insparation of this thread and my own insanity, and I've been having a blast! Fuck the "riding season"!!!!

*edited for boneheaded typos....
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Old 12-15-2005, 08:49 PM   #84
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Earlier tonight, we've had good snow tire testing weather. The road around this lawn was clear, but there's lots of hardpack and some soft and some chunk on residential streets nearby. I'm not sure if the dual sport's working better right now. The height is definitely a trade off, and the low end torque from the big single spins it where a four would hook up smooth. The suspension and tires help offset that. For this kind of bike I want more traction, I think I want to try some of those DOT studs.

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Old 12-15-2005, 11:43 PM   #85
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Hey Snowrider, I find your observations interesting and different from what I have believed-so now you got me thinking.
I like the power characteristics of a big single for winter riding-the Pegaso is really easy to modulate power-wise, I can feed in power as I need and don't think I experience that much wheelspin-but from pictures that were taken of me riding in Hatcher Pass, I clearly do spin the wheel more than I think. I'd have thought that a 4 would cause a more abrupt power delivery, but all the the 4's I've owned had a very pronounced powerband, whereas your experience is that they are smoother and more linear? than the thumper.
It would be illuminating to get all the various configurations togther for a ride sometime, studded, unstudded, singles, multis, DS and strictly street or dirt.
I do have an older Honda CM400, maybe I will see about knobs for that bike. Or maybe even stud up some trials tread tires, if I can find them in 16"/18".
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Old 12-16-2005, 12:22 AM   #86
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The single's powerband isn't abrupt because it's making power right away, all through it's range. It's torquey everywhere, right off idle. Most inline fours start out making very little power and slowly increase as it revs up. A four with an abrupt powerband would have the powerband high enough in the rev range that I wouldn't ever get near it on snow. Keep in mind I like the fours for snow covered streets. Off pavement in snow is a whole other thing.
I'm kind of relearning right now. Some of the squirms that used to mean "back off" on snow, feel a lot like squirms that are no big deal on dirt on this bike, but I know I can't just trust it and hit the gas like I do on dirt. I'm going to have to figure out what I can get away with.

I'm not sure about a CM400, it's been a long time since I've ridden one and never on snow. I do know that my CJ360 was about the worst bike on snow I can imagine.

snowrider screwed with this post 12-16-2005 at 12:29 AM
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Old 12-17-2005, 10:49 PM   #87
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Here's my friend's SP250 with ice screws, riding on the street. Look close in first pic, he's in the background.






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Old 01-01-2006, 06:26 PM   #88
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The local stunt riders were at a little lake nearby my house....



They were using real ice screws, which let them do this-






I settled for a leisurely jaunt.

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Old 01-02-2006, 07:19 AM   #89
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KL -- that's gotta be the best scenery backdrop in a stunta vid evah!...


How are your tires holding up?
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Old 01-04-2006, 12:04 AM   #90
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Pretty well, considering that our early winter snow has gone away here in the MadZoo valley and the studs are wearing out on the pavement!

I don't think I have enough knob left to restud if I need too, so if they wear down or get thrown out (easy on the gas there, says the good twin ) I will likely need a new tire. OTOH, all this clear road stuff has allowed me to get the K bike project out for some shakedown cruises.

January marks a 25 month riding season for me. Not bad for AK!
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