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Old 01-03-2010, 08:45 PM   #16
jrunberg
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Bars and rearsets?

Tell more about the bars (original and clips) and what you're using for the rear sets. Inquiring minds - who are doing the same things - want to know!
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:08 PM   #17
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrunberg
Tell more about the bars (original and clips) and what you're using for the rear sets. Inquiring minds - who are doing the same things - want to know!
I had clubmans on and didn't care for the way they looked and felt. I got these clip-ons off ebay for a good price nice set too.

Making the rearsets very similar to what these guys did.

sparkymoto:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...6#post11749396

Herm21:
http://dotheton.com/index.php?topic=7401.0
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:26 AM   #18
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I had a pretty bad oil leak at one point in time and it was coming from the bottom of the front cover.

Strangely it did it when I had the UNI Airfilters on and it would backfire. Knowing I did not have the know hows of jetting and carb adjustment I went back to the stock airbox and the leaking stopped. I am assuming it had something to do with the backpressure?

Pics of leak......



ANy ides where that is coming from?

Quick motivational shot....


Didn't have large enough wrench, will grab one today from work.


As she sits....
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:54 AM   #19
sparkymoto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt

Didn't have large enough wrench, will grab one today from work.

not sure about the leak situation...but you'll need a 36mm wrench/socket for the forks.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:52 PM   #20
slashbike
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Here's mine as a bit of inspiration...
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:52 PM   #21
slashbike
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Location: Ferndale, WA
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One More...
What it has
-Knoscher replica tail
-Home built clip-ons
-Smoke red /7 tank
-Konis in the rear
-Rearsets from DiscoVolanteMoto in the UK
-Progressive fork springs and 10w in the front
-MAC 2-1 with Kerker exhaust can
-CB750 front fender mounted to the stock brace.
-Deep oil sump

For now, that's it...it's kind of a work in progress. The tough part is keeping it looking period correct, while improving things.
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slashbike screwed with this post 01-05-2010 at 02:59 PM
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:17 PM   #22
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
not sure about the leak situation...but you'll need a 36mm wrench/socket for the forks.
Well I borrowed a wrench from work and holy mother of damn I cannot get those things to turn. As thin as they are they I am afraid to apply more torque and possibly round out the edges. I sprayed some PB on it and will have at it tomorrow. I'm gonna borrow a 36mm socket and a breaker bar.

I would have continued pulling the front of the motor, but my exhaust wrench has yet to come in from SJBMW. I bought it on 12/28 and it didn't ship until today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slashbike
Here's mine as a bit of inspiration...
snip
Nice ride there showoff!
:-)
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:38 PM   #23
tenderfoot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
Well I borrowed a wrench from work and holy mother of damn I cannot get those things to turn. As thin as they are they I am afraid to apply more torque and possibly round out the edges. I sprayed some PB on it and will have at it tomorrow. I'm gonna borrow a 36mm socket and a breaker bar.
:-)
I used a socket and a piece of 10mm tubing that was easily 4ft long for leverage.! The specs according to Haynes for your model are:
Steering stem top nut:
88.5 - 96 lbf ft

Fork leg top plug:
96 lbf ft

Remember to hang on to the bike.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:40 PM   #24
east high
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
Well I borrowed a wrench from work and holy mother of damn I cannot get those things to turn. As thin as they are they I am afraid to apply more torque and possibly round out the edges. I sprayed some PB on it and will have at it tomorrow. I'm gonna borrow a 36mm socket and a breaker bar.
Heat it up with some MAPP gas before you loosen it. Access to an air compressor and an impact wrench would help out too.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:42 PM   #25
sparkymoto
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http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/fork/chapter13.htm
You can page back and forward for more info if you end up removing the tubes completely. Hopefully the PB will get it...I didn't have any troubles with mine.

I can't speak for the service at SJ but I received some stuff from Jeff at Northwoods 2 days after I placed the order!!
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:16 PM   #26
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenderfoot
I used a socket and a piece of 10mm tubing that was easily 4ft long for leverage.! The specs according to Haynes for your model are:
Steering stem top nut:
88.5 - 96 lbf ft

Fork leg top plug:
96 lbf ft

Remember to hang on to the bike.
Scary thing is the steering top nut came off with my fingers.
I was pulling the entire bike around on the center stand cranking on that top fork tube lug. Had a buddy come by and hold the bike while I cranked and needless to say the fork plug won for today.

Quote:
Originally Posted by east high
Heat it up with some MAPP gas before you loosen it. Access to an air compressor and an impact wrench would help out too.
Fire I can do, no love on the compressor though. 36mm socket, breaker bar, and cheater bar here I come. (oh and buddy to hold the bike)

Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/fork/chapter13.htm
You can page back and forward for more info if you end up removing the tubes completely. Hopefully the PB will get it...I didn't have any troubles with mine.

I can't speak for the service at SJ but I received some stuff from Jeff at Northwoods 2 days after I placed the order!!
I've got that site bookmarked. No internet in the garage and no printer so I go to the pages, study, and take notes so I do not have to come back to the PC. I am removing the forks completely and disassembling them so I can have the bottom tubes powdered.

I figured do to the holidays receiving the item would be slow as I've heard nothing but great things about SJBMW. I'm just a little inpatient right now. I however received the items from you pretty damn quick. Took me longer to pick them up than they took to get here.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:34 PM   #27
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Not a major update but I have a question that is driving me insane and probably has the easiest answer.

Subject:
Removing the engine block from the frame.

Do I have to remove the oil pan to get to the engine mount bolts? How do i access the backside of them? I loosened the nuts and can push the bolts in, but it looks like they will fall into the crankcase on top of the oil pan if pushed in all the way. I scoured the internet for about 2 hours and flipped through my Haynes only to have the bolts win for now.


Here is how it sits. Turning my 27mm socket down tomorrow so I can remove the swing arm.


The tank is off to the body shop to have the dents yanked out and I should have it back Wednesday. What's the best interior coating for it? Kreem, POR-15 or keep it full of gas and ride it all the time? This all seems to be a matter of opinion.


A little design:
I ordered some 3/8" thick 6061 aluminum for my rearsets. Sunday I played around with Sketchup to design my shift linkage. Sparkymoto I copied you and am going 5.5" from center of foot peg to shift peg.





I also came up with colors as well. (Actually I've had these colors in mind for quite sometime. I just finally put them together and I think it looks great.)

The real Monaco Blue is much darker almost black in the shade.


Be back at it tomorrow after work.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:55 PM   #28
FR700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt

Subject:
Removing the engine block from the frame.

Do I have to remove the oil pan to get to the engine mount bolts? How do i access the backside of them? I loosened the nuts and can push the bolts in, but it looks like they will fall into the crankcase on top of the oil pan if pushed in all the way. I scoured the internet for about 2 hours and flipped through my Haynes only to have the bolts win for now.





Be back at it tomorrow after work.
There are only two bolts .About 12 or so inches long .Unbolt the gearbox and remove .All that is ever holding the motor and box are those two itty bitty bolts .They pass through the motor .
When you get the 36 mm socket ,get a six sided one ,not the 12 point -you'll thank me later .




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Old 01-11-2010, 09:03 PM   #29
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR700
There are only two bolts .About 12 or so inches long .Unbolt the gearbox and remove .All that is ever holding the motor and box are those two itty bitty bolts .They pass through the motor .
When you get the 36 mm socket ,get a six sided one ,not the 12 point -you'll thank me later .
Holy crap so when I was pushing in on one side of the bolt I never bothered to look at the other side to see if it moved out. I need a "DOH" right about now. I thought it was 4 individual bolts.

Thanks.....

I got the 36mm top fork nut off and yes I did get a 6pt from Sears. That sucker was tight. If you can imagine someone trying to break it over and holding the bike to keep it from pulling around at the same time.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:31 PM   #30
sparkymoto
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the lever plan looks slick...the 5.5" came from the stock foot control specs. i think it's standard.

colors look great. perfect beemer palette.

great update. i've been a little bummed by the weather lately and need to get back out in the garage anyway...with a space heater at least!
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