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Old 01-12-2010, 06:15 PM   #31
FR700
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Location: Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
Holy crap so when I was pushing in on one side of the bolt I never bothered to look at the other side to see if it moved out. I need a "DOH" right about now. I thought it was 4 individual bolts.

Thanks.....
You are welcome





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Old 01-12-2010, 06:53 PM   #32
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I love tools especially ones I modify myself.


I put another dent in it tonight. Was able to remove the rear drive, rear suspension, and transmission. I was going to pull the motor out tonight but my buddy backed out on me. So I'll hit up a neighbor to lend me a hand.
How I left it.



Took this shot to show you guys. Could that be a possible rear main seal leaking?


So once again I'll day dream about being able to get in the garage again.

rkatapt screwed with this post 01-14-2010 at 08:52 PM
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Old 01-12-2010, 07:03 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
the lever plan looks slick...the 5.5" came from the stock foot control specs. i think it's standard.

colors look great. perfect beemer palette.

great update. I've been a little bummed by the weather lately and need to get back out in the garage anyway...with a space heater at least!
I've got a spaceheater that literally moves everywhere I go in the garage. I made the project as far away from the garage door as possible.

I've also been meaning to get a thermometer one that displays inside and outside. It's kinda nice in there now and not to cold outside here.
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Old 01-12-2010, 08:39 PM   #34
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Re rear main seal.... it doesn't look "wet" or greasy from the photo.... could be just a lot of clutch dust....swipe your finger through the black dust and if it doesn't smear around, you're probably just fine.

While you are there... (famous words, those!)... you may want to pull the clutch stuff off. That way you can measure the clutch friction plate thickness, inspect and clean the pressure plate, eyeball the rear main, and easy to do, replace the o-ring around the oilpump cover. That o-ring can seep enough that people assume it is the rear main... and a lot of "rear main" oil leaks get repaired because of that o-ring!

To remove the clutch you will want those three bolts/nuts... it makes the job of releasing the pressure plate tension quite easy... iirc jtwind sells them in a little kit... pretty cheap but worth it! Or if you have a good metric bolt shop, just get longer versions of the six bolts along with the nuts (3 of each)

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Old 01-13-2010, 11:43 AM   #35
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Re: removing the engine. Just lower the whole bike to the ground, it will sit on the oil pan, remove the bolts. A little bit of jostling and the engine will be out... plus it'll be a whole lot safer than the balancing act you've got going on there now.
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Old 01-14-2010, 08:38 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Re rear main seal.... it doesn't look "wet" or greasy from the photo.... could be just a lot of clutch dust....swipe your finger through the black dust and if it doesn't smear around, you're probably just fine.

While you are there... (famous words, those!)... you may want to pull the clutch stuff off. That way you can measure the clutch friction plate thickness, inspect and clean the pressure plate, eyeball the rear main, and easy to do, replace the o-ring around the oilpump cover. That o-ring can seep enough that people assume it is the rear main... and a lot of "rear main" oil leaks get repaired because of that o-ring!

To remove the clutch you will want those three bolts/nuts... it makes the job of releasing the pressure plate tension quite easy... iirc jtwind sells them in a little kit... pretty cheap but worth it! Or if you have a good metric bolt shop, just get longer versions of the six bolts along with the nuts (3 of each)

There is a little drizzle of oil on the left side of the case. Like you said "since I'm in here" I might as well look and she if I can find more things to spend money on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad M
Re: removing the engine. Just lower the whole bike to the ground, it will sit on the oil pan, remove the bolts. A little bit of jostling and the engine will be out... plus it'll be a whole lot safer than the balancing act you've got going on there now.
Yeah I kept bumping the rear subframe and a couple of times almost knocked it to the ground. Luckily was able to catch it each time. Good tip I'll be able to one man wrestle it a bit easier. BTW about how much does an airhead motor weight dry?



Good news got my tank back today from the body shop and they were able to pound the dents out.

Now to start on the inside of the tank. It's actually really good no rust. BMW from the factory coats the interior with a rust colored coating. I think I am going with POR-15.

Another small update:
Had a little time to draw up my shift linkage on a 3/8 thick sheet of 6061 for my rear set shift linkage. I also, stole some bearings out of a pair of inline skates sitting in the garage.



I won't be able to start fab until next week. Going out of town for the weekend.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:59 PM   #37
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Small little update.....

Got the shift linkage cut out, Still needs final machining to smooth it out.




Got the frame down to nothing finally gonna clean it up this weekend at work.



All parts tagged and organized and I still have more to order. Anyone know of a good place to get rubber pieces and gaskets online?


The small 1 car garage this is all taking place. I live in an apartment so I cannot really grind, weld, or bang on metal in there.


Now the fun begins fab and design...

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Old 01-27-2010, 12:47 AM   #38
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Wow!

Nice to see your Care racer coming along so well. Nothing like working in an unheated garage to keep the life blood of creativity moving.

A few years ago I rebuilt a couple of frames. This one for my R-90:



And this one for an R-100:



Now I'm swapping bikes/frames around and I'm thinking (Again.) about building a cafe bike. I got a lot a parts and that means that I gotta use em right? All I need is to find a decent donor bike cheap Find the bike and the $$$ will appear!

If you're gonna move that battery and the space behind above the trans is dedicated to something else, you might want to think about making a battery box and installing it under the trans. Placing it under the seat hump puts that weight in the worst place possible. High and to the rear. On that R-100 frame, I moved the engine forward, to put more weight on the front end and I should have done in on the R-90.

Please keep posting as you make the rear sets. Thats something that I'm very interested in!
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:38 AM   #39
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Great progress! Keep the momentum. As far as seals and gaskets, this may help:

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/ma...nce-parts.html
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:04 AM   #40
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Hucky has a full stock of bits and pieces, rubber and otherwise, for all twin shock airheads.

Good guy for advice and parts, excellent customer service.

Huckys Spare Parts, Hans Lowe.

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:08 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
If you're gonna move that battery and the space behind above the trans is dedicated to something else, you might want to think about making a battery box and installing it under the trans. Placing it under the seat hump puts that weight in the worst place possible. High and to the rear.

I originally intended to do that, but wouldn’t I lose my centerstand?




[quote=sparkymoto]
Great progress! Keep the momentum. As far as seals and gaskets, this may help:

http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/maintenance-parts.html
[/quote]


He has some of the gaskets I need, but I also need to replace some rubbers like the top vent cover tach cable seal more I cannot think of off the top of my head. Checked out one place for the top vent cover and they are pretty proud of it. It’s still good just faded.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Hucky has a full stock of bits and pieces, rubber and otherwise, for all twin shock airheads.

Good guy for advice and parts, excellent customer service.

Huckys Spare Parts, Hans Lowe.

Thanks! Will lurk it out....

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Old 01-27-2010, 09:16 AM   #42
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Vent cover on top: if you are talking about the rubber cap over the starter, it is pretty much unseen once the tank is on.... I had good luck cleaning mine up and just smearing it with some Armorall or other rubber shiner-upper....

Keep us posted... gets my fingers itchin' to find another project... but I pretty much MUST re-build vicariously for the time being.....

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Old 01-27-2010, 12:10 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Vent cover on top: if you are talking about the rubber cap over the starter, it is pretty much unseen once the tank is on.... I had good luck cleaning mine up and just smearing it with some Armorall or other rubber shiner-upper....

Keep us posted... gets my fingers itchin' to find another project... but I pretty much MUST re-build vicariously for the time being.....

You right you really never know it's there until you pull the tank.



BTW anyone know what these tabs on the subframe do? They've never connected anything since I've had it.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:16 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
You right you really never know it's there until you pull the tank.



BTW anyone know what these tabs on the subframe do? They've never connected anything since I've had it.
the tabs i believe are for the fender and the loop is for the wiring harness to the brakelight??
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:24 PM   #45
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here's a pic. the wrapped wires go down the sub frame and through the "hoop" and into the back of the tail light housing.
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