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Old 01-27-2010, 01:12 PM   #46
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
here's a pic. the wrapped wires go down the sub frame and through the "hoop" and into the back of the tail light housing.
http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/y...oto/bmwref.jpg
Thanks! hrmmn I had a rear fender at one point to and I don't remember using those. That may not be good since i have to reassemble this thing. Whelp it's good to know as they will both be hacked off.

BTW sparkymoto the tailpiece I got from you has a mounting bracket underneath. What did you mount those to on the frame? I am assuming the rear of a /5 is different (besides the length)?
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Old 01-27-2010, 03:02 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
BTW sparkymoto the tailpiece I got from you has a mounting bracket underneath. What did you mount those to on the frame? I am assuming the rear of a /5 is different (besides the length)?
The bracket under there is what came with the tailpiece. I epoxied it to the fiberglass as they instructed...but at a higher position. I think it was designed to utilize that hoop on the back...see if the small tabs under the tail are just wide enough to straddle the hoop. Since I made a new subframe that was shorter, I added my own tabs and welded them to the frame...then ran a bolt through everything. here's a bad quality photo that should give you an idea:


Here's a product pic from Airtech that shows the cowl tab epoxied in the position if used on a stock subframe like yours...
http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/...ss1contact.jpg
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Old 01-28-2010, 07:09 AM   #48
rkatapt OP
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Krauser Bags

Not a Krauser Question.....

So I am going to bypass the neutral switch. Do I just run it hot and wire the leads together that go into the switch?

rkatapt screwed with this post 01-29-2010 at 06:02 AM
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Old 03-02-2010, 05:13 PM   #49
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Hey all this project isn't dead yet just things like life get in the way.

So the bike is completely stripped and the frames been cleaned up and ground down of unnecessary tabs.

I've received many parts, have some on the way, and still have a few more things to order. (BTW Hucky's good experience, more business is definitely going that way.) Actually I've had good experience with all the vendors so far.

I am [this] close for the powder shop and I have a couple of questions.

I want to bypass the neutral switch. Do I just wire the leads together that go into the switch? It makes sense to me as it will always think it's in neutral.

Also, what is the best way to get the rear coupling nut off the driveshaft without possibly bending it? I've put some pressure on it and hopefully have not bent it already.

Thanks, more pics to come...
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Old 03-02-2010, 06:43 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
here's a pic. the wrapped wires go down the sub frame and through the "hoop" and into the back of the tail light housing.
Close, but the wiring harness to the taillight is supposed to run through that upper subframe tube. If you look at the upper tube where you've zip tied that wiring harness in the photo, you should notice a hole on the inside of the tube near the seat lock area. There will be a corresponding hole toward the rear of the upper subframe tube near the rear loop. Pull the wiring harness through these holes to run it to the taillight. If you look at the pic below, you'll sort of see the harness exiting the subframe tube near the loop at the rear of the upper subframe tube:



Sorry, but I don't have a pic showing it any better.

In that photo you'll also see the tabs on the inside rear of the upper subframe tube are indeed the fender mounts. The loop on the rear is actually a mount for a luggage rack. You can't see it too well in the pic below, but just follow the chrome of the rack, and you'll see that the rack mount leads to that loop:

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Old 03-02-2010, 06:50 PM   #51
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nice. good clarification.
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:09 PM   #52
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That loop on the back of the sub frame is for attaching either a tail rack or a set of bag mounts.

If I was doing your mod, I'd be tempted to leave it in place just in case I ever wanted to add bag racks and actually go someplace.

Always nice to have that option!
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:00 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
That loop on the back of the sub frame is for attaching either a tail rack or a set of bag mounts.

If I was doing your mod, I'd be tempted to leave it in place just in case I ever wanted to add bag racks and actually go someplace.

Always nice to have that option!
The loop is still there as that's how the airtech tail attaches. The rear fender, seat/helmet lock and battery mounts went bye bye with my grinder.

If I wanted to actually "go" somewhere I'd ride the other one. .

So anyone have answers to my questions above.
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:34 AM   #54
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Little bit of an update, can't wait for my up hill battle and putting it all back together.

New work

new footpegs and speed holes drilled

Bearing and bushing pressed in. Still needs cleaning up.


Going with clip on handle bars so I need different headlight ears. I had to do some modifications. Welding up the headlight ears for the ignition side.

and the modified ear. Still needs some cleaning up as well.


Welding up the pan for the battery tray. Hopefully this will help keep crud from flying all over the battery and it will also give me a little storage place.


All welded and somewhat cleaned up.

and here it is with the side battery tabs welded in.


New subframe gusset welded in eliminating the seat and helmet lock. Also, shows the Odyssey PC680 battery fitment. Battery will be held in with a steel strap that runs front to back.



I am thinking about going with th Odyssey PC545 instead it is smaller and should provide me with enough CCA's. The Panasonic LC-X1228P has 400 CCA's and the PC545 has 545 CCA's should be ok shouldn't it?
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:41 AM   #55
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Old 03-07-2010, 10:47 AM   #56
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Woohoo!!........ Nice work there.... wish I had that setup (and those skills...)




Can't tell you in terms of CCA's, but I know that a remarkably small AGM battery can do a hell of a cranking job... best thing you can do is to have the engine well tuned so that it lights off quickly....

My battery is a wallyworld special, an AGM, that is only 3x6x7... and it has plenty of oomph, it can sit for weeks without charging of any kind, and light off the bike without so much as a grunt...have had it a couple of years now, no complaints.
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:12 AM   #57
tenderfoot
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Be carefull.!!!

You lost some rear wheel suspension travel right there.
Look at the first two pics in davef's post to see what I mean.
On smooth roads you'll be OK but whoopy section will have you bottoming out unless you preload the shocks quite a lot.

I must still fix my similar mistake.
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Old 03-07-2010, 02:24 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
Woohoo!!........ Nice work there.... wish I had that setup (and those skills...)




Can't tell you in terms of CCA's, but I know that a remarkably small AGM battery can do a hell of a cranking job... best thing you can do is to have the engine well tuned so that it lights off quickly....

My battery is a wallyworld special, an AGM, that is only 3x6x7... and it has plenty of oomph, it can sit for weeks without charging of any kind, and light off the bike without so much as a grunt...have had it a couple of years now, no complaints.
Fortunately my old job lets me come in and use the machine shop and my current job doesn't mind me coming in on off hours and using the equipment.

I think I am gonna get the PC545 much smaller and only 11.25lbs, while the Panasonic that came out of there was 25lbs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tenderfoot
Be carefull.!!!

You lost some rear wheel suspension travel right there.
Look at the first two pics in davef's post to see what I mean.
On smooth roads you'll be OK but whoopy section will have you bottoming out unless you preload the shocks quite a lot.

I must still fix my similar mistake.
Yeah I thought about that when i did it.

Will it compress that far without being two up?
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:52 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt


Yeah I thought about that when i did it.

Will it compress that far without being two up?
In my experience yes.

It's not clear from this picture, but I have a rod connecting the upper shock mounts to retain the structural integrity of the sub-frame ater cutting off the rear loop. It is a bit lower still than yours though.
Oh yes, I weigh 71kg and some of our roads are rather bad.




Edit: I quickly checked and you will have almost 2" more suspension travel than I have, so my comments/warning are not that applicable, I reckon you should be fine.

I will leave this post for a day or so then delete it so as not to clutter up your thread.

Good luck with the build.!

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Old 03-08-2010, 07:28 AM   #60
rkatapt OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenderfoot
In my experience yes.

It's not clear from this picture, but I have a rod connecting the upper shock mounts to retain the structural integrity of the sub-frame ater cutting off the rear loop. It is a bit lower still than yours though.
Oh yes, I weigh 71kg and some of our roads are rather bad.


*snip*

Edit: I quickly checked and you will have almost 2" more suspension travel than I have, so my comments/warning are not that applicable, I reckon you should be fine.

I will leave this post for a day or so then delete it so as not to clutter up your thread.

Good luck with the build.!
Thanks for the heads up....you can leave your thread. Seeing bikes similar to mine assembled and rideable gives me motivation.
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