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Old 12-30-2009, 12:08 PM   #31
rkatapt
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That battery is definetly on my list of things to purchase if it works out well. I want to mount the battery under the tailpiece and out of sight. Hope it works out well.

I've thought of something similar on the rearsets.

Speakin of I need to get to wrenchin on mine.

rkatapt screwed with this post 12-30-2009 at 12:34 PM
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:16 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkatapt
That battery is definetly on my list of things to purchase if it works out well. I am want to mount the batetry under the tailpiece and out of sight. Hope it works out well.

I've thought of something similar on the rearsets. Speakin of I need to get to wrenchin on mine.
The E-batt will go under my tailpiece as well since it will be fairly small. If you end up using the tail piece from the R50, you could go with a larger battery that is tried and true. The E-batt was $139.00. I'll post up when I get it mounted and test it.
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Old 12-30-2009, 12:34 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
The E-batt will go under my tailpiece as well since it will be fairly small. If you end up using the tail piece from the R50, you could go with a larger battery that is tried and true. The E-batt was $139.00. I'll post up when I get it mounted and test it.
Right now I have a sealed Panasonic battery that is about a year and a half old. I was wondering if it would fit under the tail. If it does then I'll keep it and construct some mounts.

FedEx tracking says the tail should be in today sometime.
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:14 PM   #34
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Rearsets: Left side

Rearsets are now installed. A little crude here-and-there but functional. I didn't get enough pics of this process but here's a link to what I referenced.

"CB450 Rearsets Done on the Cheap"

There you'll see several good pics of how the bearing was applied to the lever and how the completed lever was adapted to the bike (spacers, etc).



The bearing was a little bigger than 1” so it took a good bit of force to press into the 1” drilled hole. The aluminum wasn’t easy to cut but considering I used a jigsaw with a metal blade (wd40 for lube) it wasn’t too bad. A bench grinder cleaned up the edges and rounded corners. I then sanded and steel-wooled it. Finished pieces will be black with aluminum beveled speed holes.
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:15 PM   #35
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Old 12-30-2009, 03:36 PM   #36
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Nice job on the rearsets

Got any pics of the brake side?
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Old 12-30-2009, 06:05 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by norton73
Nice job on the rearsets

Got any pics of the brake side?
Yep!

First off, here's the before...
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Old 12-30-2009, 07:58 PM   #38
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Rearsets: Right side

Here's how the right side turned out.



I was worried about losing the leverage the original lever had but it works great...shouldn't be an issue. Pretty happy with it. The finished lever will also be painted black with beveled aluminum speed holes.



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Old 12-30-2009, 08:04 PM   #39
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I, too, was worried with the very fore-shortened brake lever that I ended up with on my R100 franken-rearsets:



I used the same stock pivot point, but had a rudimentary pedal from the po, which I used and then simply put a /6 left footpeg on, backwards... it has worked fine!

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Old 12-30-2009, 08:08 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm
I, too, was worried with the very fore-shortened brake lever that I ended up with on my R100 franken-rearsets:

I used the same stock pivot point, but had a rudimentary pedal from the po, which I used and then simply put a /6 left footpeg on, backwards... it has worked fine!

Good. Thanks!

Here's a full bike view.
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Old 12-30-2009, 08:10 PM   #41
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Looking good!




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Old 12-30-2009, 08:35 PM   #42
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Thumb

gorgeous work. well done.
here are some thoughts (not criticism):
1. consider changing the fuel lines to metal instead of the rubber or material types. looks far better. you may have to jettison the fuel filter, as i did.
2. having removed the filler, you will need a 'filler' there's a local guy here who makes the, in carbon fiber, specific to your bike.
3. not sure where you pegs are located, ergonomically speaking. you appear to ave moved them back a little. once you sit and ride you might have to change things, as i did. i can post details if you need it.
4. get rid of the fidly original side stand and get a browns from usa. you will need to fabricate a mounting bracket but that's no big deal for you. the browns looks tops and works a treat.
cheers
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Old 12-30-2009, 11:49 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shmerel
gorgeous work. well done.
here are some thoughts (not criticism):
1. consider changing the fuel lines to metal instead of the rubber or material types. looks far better. you may have to jettison the fuel filter, as i did.
2. having removed the filler, you will need a 'filler' there's a local guy here who makes the, in carbon fiber, specific to your bike.
3. not sure where you pegs are located, ergonomically speaking. you appear to ave moved them back a little. once you sit and ride you might have to change things, as i did. i can post details if you need it.
4. get rid of the fidly original side stand and get a browns from usa. you will need to fabricate a mounting bracket but that's no big deal for you. the browns looks tops and works a treat.
cheers
gad
Thanks Gad.

1. Steel gas lines: Dig that. I'm game. I put a light in the tank a couple weeks ago and it wasn't pretty...gonna need to get it cleaned and coated. Then I'll go with something less "Tractor Supply" on the inline filters.
2. Filler: is the the c/f piece you have added on your engine top? Sorry, if I'm off on this.
3. Rearsets: Yeah, we'll see how the positioning works. Tried to get it as close to the specs of my 05 Speed Triple but won't know exactly until the subframe gets tacked up.
4. Sidestand: The stock SS is definitely fiddly. The Brown's does look good-n-sturdy. Will add that to the "want" list.

Appreciate the tips!!
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Old 12-31-2009, 03:54 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkymoto
Rearsets are now installed. A little crude here-and-there but functional. I didn't get enough pics of this process but here's a link to what I referenced.

"CB450 Rearsets Done on the Cheap"

There you'll see several good pics of how the bearing was applied to the lever and how the completed lever was adapted to the bike (spacers, etc).



The bearing was a little bigger than 1” so it took a good bit of force to press into the 1” drilled hole. The aluminum wasn’t easy to cut but considering I used a jigsaw with a metal blade (wd40 for lube) it wasn’t too bad. A bench grinder cleaned up the edges and rounded corners. I then sanded and steel-wooled it. Finished pieces will be black with aluminum beveled speed holes.
hey man, nice work!! Question: What kind of welder did you use to weld the bracket on the shifter arm? Did you have any trouble welding that? I still need to do something similar.


Just made rearsets for my Suzuki project buy the way, this is how I did it:

http://bmwcafe.blogspot.com/2009/12/...part-deux.html

http://bmwcafe.blogspot.com/2009/12/...or-suzuki.html
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Old 12-31-2009, 08:49 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIOB
hey man, nice work!! Question: What kind of welder did you use to weld the bracket on the shifter arm? Did you have any trouble welding that? I still need to do something similar.


Just made rearsets for my Suzuki project buy the way, this is how I did it:

http://bmwcafe.blogspot.com/2009/12/...part-deux.html

http://bmwcafe.blogspot.com/2009/12/...or-suzuki.html
Hey, MIOB. Your rearsets turned out great. I've been keeping up with your blog. Looking forward to seeing them on the bike.

I use a Lincoln Weld Pak 100 Mig with flux cored wire for everything. Picked it up barely used for $170.00 about 5 years ago. Love it. It works great for thin stuff but wouldn't want to weld steel over 1/4" with it.
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