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Old 04-26-2011, 02:34 PM   #1
digital4169 OP
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Laugh Italy on a bike.......back in a crate!

Well where to start.............mmmmmmmmmmm?

This report is a little overdue and is my first effort. (I've only just got over the trauma!)

The plan was for me to join a couple of mates for run down through France soaking up warm sun, quiet roads and good food. Oh, and a beer or two!

I set of from home near Leeds on my pride and joy, a new BMW K1300S destined for Andy's home in The south, riding through middle England, avoiding motorways and as many dual carriageways as possible. They're all straight and dull!

I used a similar route in 2009 passing over Strines Moor, past Chatsworth House, Matlock Bath, Ashbourne and down to Fosse Way. Then heading south I kept to winding roads with few speed camera's
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Andy's K13 looks happy with it's pall for the night!

We partook in a couple of beers or so and a BBQ to help the night pass. After a very short sleep and up at 5am for the run down to Poole and to meet the other bike and Robin at the ferry port for the fast ferry from Poole to Cherbourg.
For those who haven't used it, it's an excellent service, 2hrs across, excellent tying down facilities, helpful staff and a fairly cheap belly buster breakfast on board with refill coffees! Drink until you can't stop peeing for days!
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Once off the other side, the sun was out and hot and a short stretch of Autoroute awaited. Having done this part of the trip before, I run down the N13 onto the N174, keeping to the speed limit. Police everywhere on this stretch, just waiting for UK bikes.

The goal is to come off the 174 onto the D28 from St Lo to Tesse de Vire and then down to Tinchebray. I guarantee you will love this road! It's not the most extreme, but is just great as a starter.
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The days on our trips sort of go like this..... up at a reasonable hour, ride for an hour or so. Find an umbrella to sit under and drink coffee and eat croissants. Ride for an hour or so, find an umbrella, eat and drink and so on. About 4pm look for a room somewhere and then eat and drink a bit more.

So with the sun really hot we found the cafe on the photo's and had a good cafe au lait.

We rode in blistering heat through mile after mile of farm land and forest, never seeing the rozzers, nor much traffic. I love it.

Arriving in Chateaudun. we found the local Tourist Info and were directed a few miles away to a B&B.
Well at 105 euros for 3 for the night we thought it a bit pricey. But look at the photo's. It is a fabulous french chateau, with fantastic rooms, great landlady and fabulous food. If you are down near Chateaudun seek it out you won't be disappointed!!

http://www.chateaux-story.com/fr/Gra...e-et-loir.html

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We were treated like royalty and were the only guests in the main house. Madame brought us home made food, wine an quiche in the lawn. I have seriously never tasted such fresh food for years. Breakfast the next day was also a feast of fresh. breads, croissants, fruit and conserves.

Day 2 was to be a push on across central france with a target somewhere near to Geneva.

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Flies liked the hot weather too. Robin made it his duty to kill them all!


We found a cheap and cheerful hotel in Besancon, with a room equipped for 3. That was clearly 3 small people, who didn't snore or have a wind problem. I was far too close to Andy for comfort, and found his fluttering lips (you decide) too close for comfort. Robin however picked the bed over the other side of the room, but pushed out unpleasant zzzz's as loudly as possible.

Day 3 on the continent found the sun still trying to melt everything and us looking to push on through Geneva. In fact I had programmed my Garmin to take us around the city. Given the usual traffic and the heat it was definately best to avoid. Garmin in it's usual style took us directly through the middle. It was horrendously hot and very busy. The fans on the bikes made all the difference. There's no way we could have got that hot without their help!
Just as we were leaving the heavens opened. There was a downpour from hell. We had to stop as visibility was down to about an inch. We hid under a closed garage canopy until it stopped. Thankfully, Andy had seen the chain across the entrance before Robin and I ploughed through.

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Once through Geneva and sight of the fountain in the lake, we pushed on towards Thonon le Bain and then right up into the hills. The roads from there through the forests and hillsides towards Les Gets and Morzine are fantastic. Loads of sweeping bends and good surfaces. Worth a visit is the white water rafting you pass on youe left. I've done it a couple of times and you're sure of a good ride.
You get a bus ride up the river a few km's and then a rough ride down the river. This includes an accidental (on purpose) submersion in the rapids and chance to jump off some rocks into boiling rapids to be swept downstream. I'm sure it's safe!?!?

Once into Morzine check out all the big kids activities, including Paragliding, dry slope sledging, a dry cresta run and much more.
We continued across and through fantastic scenary until we got tires and looked for a stop in Taninges. With a quick visit to the Tourist Info we were directed up the mountain to Mrs Bastards place for the night. It is a typical mountain lodge, with good very clean rooms and excellent breakfast. The walk however down into town is nothing compared to the climb back up after a few beers and a pizza. Bloody hell, it's steep and long.
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We were now fully into the Alps with huge views, brilliant clear air and twisting smooth roads.

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More later

digital4169 screwed with this post 04-27-2011 at 12:09 AM
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:40 PM   #2
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Struggling to get photo's on. Any ideas?
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:46 PM   #3
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You can only attach one image per post. You might want to link to a file server. Here's how:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:45 PM   #4
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It's best to load your pics on a pic hosting site and then link them here, but don't use Photobucket becuse you'll quickly run out of bandwidth. ADV generates a lot of traffic.
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Old 04-27-2011, 02:07 PM   #5
digital4169 OP
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Right I seem to have cracked the photo issue, so onward and upwards (literally)

After having survived a night where Robin was banished to the camp bed under the eves. (it was his turn and his farts smelled) I found that the pizza from the previous night, although tasting good had been made in less than hygenic circumstances. My body was revolting against whatever strain of bacteria was by now doing the front crawl around my belly.
Consequently we left every cafe, hotel and rest stop in a hurry for the next couple of days. Thank god for Robins first aid kit.
First Aid kit......F'ing 'ell. He had enough drugs and equipment to save a small nation from every desease known to Robin.
Did I mention he is a Scout Leader.... wouldn't have been invited if we'd known.

We had by now reached the proper Alps with superb twisties, albeit a bit bottle testing at times, with drops off the side of the road to make yo consider your speed. No it didn't I'm lying!
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We arrived that night in the town of Briancon. Local Tourist Info came up trumps again with a really buzzing, friendly 'bikers' hotel with triple rooms, very clean and good rooms. Only down side was the landlady looked a bit like Tim Curry in the Rocky Horror. She had clothes over the benders though.
When we arrived all guests were very friendly sat out front drinking beers and soaking sun.......apart from the two German's sat across the door way, with legs stretched out so you had to step over them.
Clearly they had no manners, sat in their Ducati one pieces.
Nice side to this story is we saw them dragged in by the police the next day for speeding. We tittered whilst drinking our first coffee of the day. There is a god. Don't normally like to see bikers being done, but this time we smirked as we set off past them withdrawing from the cashpoint

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Soon after this Andy and Robin turned right heading towards Gap to start their ride back north. We had intended to stay together until Monaco, but time was running out for their itinerary. At least that's what they told me, but they didn't half seem in a rush to be together!!

I pushed on alone heading south. I reached Monaco around 3 and set about riding around the GP Circuit. Can't believe it, but I never found it! Still can't work that one out!?
Riding up the coast I had some great views over the ocean to my right, before finding a hotel in Menton for the night. Bloody expensive, basic and not that clean.

I did sleep very well though so after no breakfast set off heading into Italy. I must mention the bike at this stage, which was proving to be an excellent choice for such a trip. Huge power, reasonably comfortable for 250 - 300 miles, good luggage space (far better luggage space than my GS Adventure.... (Mrs Bob can't bring as much crap. Last year we had a hairdryer, hair straighteners, 5 pairs of shoes, a hat for going out etc...etc)
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I found Italy quite a change. I can never understand how an imaginary line on a map, suddenly changes the buildings, gardens, cars, people, driving......
The driving and road markings were now becoming a bit of a challenge, so I adopted the London method, by basically cracking on and being forceful. It seemed to work.
I have a habit when I'm riding alone of never stopping and find I push on too far for comfort. So found myself at 8pm looking for somewhere to stay. Not a problem really, other than I was shattered, but I would normally liked to have had a shower and be drinking a beer by now.
Pulling into the small town of Bobbio, it was clear that ALL the residents were out in the market square to soak up the sun.
I love the mediteranean life style with the evenings reserved for promenading and sitting out.
I went across to the first hotel, finding what appeared to be the landlady sat on the porch. It was clear that the place had closed down some time ago and the woman, probably in her 90's didn't speak a word. No I mean literaley didn't speak a word! She just sat ans stared at me. Now the sensible thing to do would have been to escape there and then, but being British I have an inbuilt inability to walk away looking like a fool. So persisting with my attempts to communicate I stood there and looked a complete t**t.

I found a particularly good hotel across the square, which was gentele to say the least, but very clean and comfortable.
Pizza in the square with a couple of beers ended the day perfectly, before a much needed bed.
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Old 04-27-2011, 03:13 PM   #6
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Outstanding! Thanks for the pics and the detailed report.. enjoying your ride tremendously

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Old 04-27-2011, 04:16 PM   #7
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Magnificent ride in the mountains. Love the report.
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Old 04-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #8
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Nice RR...

Sweet bike too
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:45 AM   #9
digital4169 OP
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Right.... Today is a day for riding down to Pisa to meet Mrs Bob and the kids at the airport. We had arranged a rental property in Castelavecchio, just above Pascia in the Tunisian hills.
The ride down was uneventful as I just concentrated on getting there for lunch time. The autostrade served it's purpose, but it was that hot the faster I went and the more vents and zips I opened the hot it got. The wind was actually burning hot. The temp guage on my Garmin read 39c!



everyone arrived on time and after sorting out the hire car, (I had ordered a Fiat estate car which looked big enough to squeeze 6 adults into) we were congratulayed by the girl behind the desk and told we'd had a free upgrade. A BMW 118d. It was a very tight squeeze, for the 5 not on the bike and all the luggage.

The house was found after a bit of a struggle. Castelevecchio is at the end of a long lae up into the mountains and the house was down a track, between the church and it's tower and on and on and on.
What a fantastic location. The house was a dream with unbelievable views, large pool and cracking accomodation.

Called La Spinosa it can be found on the below link.

http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/p42...D_link_LPROP_1

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The stay at La Spinosa was a dream. Fabulous weather, views, house and local trattoria's.
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The leaning wotsit in Pisa is definately worth a visit, if only to see all the crazy people pretending to hold it up! There are lots. The dome at Florence cathedral is worth the climb to go up inside the dome between outer roof and ceiling. Never seemed quite safe to me!

At the end of the week we had planned to drive and ride back to the airport for the 4 kids to fly back to the UK. Then Mrs B and I would ride home via the Dolomites, Stelvio, B500 in Germany and so on..... Excellent.

Except when we set off I had gone no further than the end of the track when I got a puncture. Tyre deflating very quickly, I managed to signal to the others and an arrangement to meet at the airport was made. It was now 10am and "see you about 12 - 1pm" was the plan.
My phone had gone on the blink so I took the only other one so I could arrange recovery or whatever.
Bear in mind this is Saturday and we're in Italy!!

I had 2 of the compressed air cyclinder repair kits with me, but with the bike being new, decided.......No! I will get BMW's creme da la creme service out, that I had heard so much about.
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Calling BMW International was a doddle, excellent staff and a simple quick service. Directions as to where I were given and "No problem sir, we'll be there soon" plan developed.

The sun was out, I was very hot, but relaxed and sat to wait.............................................. .................................................. ......................................
After an hour or so I ran back to again be told "Don't worry, be happy."
After another long wait a recovery truck from hell appeared with two Mafia hitmen operating it.
I watched in terror as my bike was loaded on and the roped down using the front disc brakes to hold it. After pointing out that this was not a great idea it was firmly squashed down with an ancient clamp, before I squeezed into the filthy cab, with even filthier, smellier men.
The drive back to their based, about 20 miles or so was not a pleasant or comfortable one as I watched my bike sway alarmingly on the back. Not amount of concern managed to get the message across. So I shut up.


I was contacted by BMW Assist and told that no tyres were available anywhere near as it was Saturday and I would have to wait until Monday. I questioned this, but had to accept that this is the case.

At their depot in the town of Collodi. A temporary repair is undertaken with the hole plugged with a fibre material, albeit the hole in the tyre is the size of a match head. I am charged 30 Euro’s cash for the repair which took no more than 5 minutes to complete. I am shown by the mechanic, by pointing at the speedometer not to exceed 80 mph.


I rode, assuming he meant 80kph, but kept to a max 60kph. Whilst heading towards Pisa, after only 6 km's the tyre deflated again leaving me stranded on the A11 Autostrade in 39c temperatures and no shade. This repair had created a very dangerous situation. Any tyre deflation on a motorcycle is dangerous with a potential to lose control and my vulnerability whilst stationary on the hard shoulder of the Autostrade.
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I again contacted BMW Assist who dispatched another recovery truck. When the truck arrived it only had the driver and no one to assist, so I was required to ride my bike up the tilted bed of the recovery truck which was very slippery with oil and grease, with a flat tyre and with the driver pushing from behind.


The bike was secured and I was told that it would now be Monday before a tyre can be fitted, which I was fine with, despite the inconvenience. The bike and I were taken to the recovery garage in Lucca where I was told I would have to get a taxi at my own expense to Florence Airport to pick up a hire car 60km's away in the opposite direction from Pisa Airport where I am due to meet my wife. It was not possible to arrange a hire car from Pisa Airport.


I'm then told that a tyre garage locally will fit a new tyre. The bike was then taken to Lucca Tre, Via di Tiglio, 1459 - 55100 San Filippo, Lucca Tel: 0583 952157 luccatre@libero.it STAY AWAY!!!!! where it was off loaded and wheeled into the garage. Firstly they try to place the bike on a lift under the plastic fairing, but can't and then try to force the wrong Paddock Stand into the rear hub. I remonstrated, to be reassured as the bike is lifted with a trolley jack on its drive shaft casings. The mechanic then used a splined 'Torx' type tool on the rear wheel bolts, but cannot loosen them with the small tool he is using. He then uses the air impact wrench on the tool which is not an impact bit and drives it until it shears off in the Torx bolt leaving it flush. The bit used is not the correct size and therefore is now snapped off flush and twisted in the bolt, so stuck. The next thing before I have chance to stop him he uses a club hammer and chisel on the bolt taking heavy swipes and missing, hitting my wheel with the chisel leaving deep gouge marks, causing considerable damage to the bolt and wheel. I also noticed my exhaust has been removed to facilitate wheel removal and is laid on a rough concrete floor. I point this out, worried about scratching, but am ignored. There is then a lot of coming and going before I ring BMW Assist once more to point out what has happened. At this point the garage manager tells me the bike will have to go to the local BMW agents in Lucca because of what has happened and the damage caused. He also offers me his own car for the weekend, I assume realising what a mess they have caused. I decline the car being concerned about liabilities, insurance and any compromise of a subsequent claim.



I contact BMW Assist to ask how to claim against the tyre garage and am told not to worry they will sort that side.


BMW Assist then ask me to arrange my own taxi through the garage to meet my wife who I had not had contact with since 1000hrs at Pisa Airport. I am also asked to sort out my own hire car and hotel as it's difficult to do through BMW International. We finally booked into a hotel in Lucca at 2200hrs a full 12 hours after a simple puncture. I had not had opportunity to eat since 8am that morning.

Sunday 11th July 2010

I am contacted by BMW Assist via voicemail to tell me the bike will go to the Lucca Motorrad agent and will be fixed Monday morning.


Monday 12th July 2010

I speak with BMW Assist who tell me the bike is going to the dealers who have said Tuesday morning. I drive to the dealers to speak with them and on arrival am told that they are very busy and they will look at it when possible. They are unwilling to give any indication when this will be, saying only they are very busy. I then notice that the exhaust is not with the bike. When I enquire about this the mechanic asks if I have it. Apparently it has been left with the tyre garage, although no one can confirm this.

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I contacted BMW Assist a number of times regarding this, but no one either at the dealers or call centre appeared particularly concerned.


Tuesday 13th July 2010

I go to the dealers at 1000hrs to be told no progress on the bike or exhaust. I once again contact BMW Assist to get an update, and to ask for arrangements to be made for us to be sent home. I cannot fund any more time in Italy at the rate I am spending and with no prognosis of outcome or timescales.

We travelled to Pisa Airport and at 1630hrs we flew from Pisa, arrived at Luton Airport at 1830hrs and drove home to Leeds arriving 2230hrs.

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Nice coffee!



Wednesday 14th July 2010

BMW Assist contact me to tell me the BMW dealers have ordered a bolt and the bike will be ready on Friday 16th July. I once again point out that the wheel has been damaged and my exhaust is still not with the bike and I suspect damaged after being laid on a concrete floor. I am reassured that this will be checked on. Later I am contacted again by BMW Assist to tell me the bolt has been ordered and my lost wheel and exhaust will be looked for.

At what point have I said the wheel in missing?



The same day I visited my local BMW dealers Alan Jefferies, Shipley for advice and am told to ring BMW Customer Services which I do, and send them a resume of the incident to date and photographs of the damage caused to my bike.

I contact BMW Assist to check on progress periodically during the rest of the week and over the weekend to be told a number of times I will have to pay for the tyre being fitted, before they can progress repatriation, which I agree to do.

Saturday 16th July 2010

I contact BMW Assist to check on progress to be told the repairs will be carried out on Monday morning 18th July and then the bike taken back to the tyre garage that caused all the damage for the tyre fitting. I immediately state that I do not want this to happen and the bike should not be returned to the garage where they damaged my bike and clearly do not have the correct equipment or skills to complete the work satisfactory.

Sunday 17th July 2010

I return by email a completed Repatriation Form and Vehicle Registration Form.



Tuesday 20th July 2010

BMW Assist tell me the bill for the tyre and fitting will be 370 Euro’s, broken down as 220 Euro’s for the tyre and 150 euro’s to fit it. I challenge this and am told that the bill will be adjusted to match the UK price at my local dealer (£153 complete with fitting).


I receive a phone call from BMW Assist quoting for the wrong type of tyre and have to ring Jeffries myself to sort the problem out before the price is corrected.

Wednesday 21st July 2010

I pay the bill by debit card and am told I will receive my bike back by mid next week.



Thursday 22nd July 2010

I receive a call from BMW Assist to tell me my bike will be picked up by mid next week. When I state I had already been contacted and told the bike will be back by then, your representative agrees that things have not gone well and that the “service has gone from bad to worse.”



Mon 26th / Tues 27th July 2010

I am contacted by BMW assist to tell me my bike should be back by Friday 30th or Sat 31st at the latest.



Thurs 29th July 2010

I am contacted to tell me my bike will be delivered Tues 3rd Wed 4th. I question this to try for a more accurate eta, but am told it’s not possible.



Mon 2nd August 2010

I am contacted to tell me my bike will be delivered Tues 3rd possibly Wed 4th, but will confirm as soon as they know.



Tues 3rd August 2010

I am contacted to tell me my bike will be delivered Wed 4th but could be Thurs 5th but someone would ring me a.m. Wed 4th.



Wed 4th August 2010

I waited for a phone call but when no one had made contact by 2pm I rang to be told the driver of the delivery truck had been taken ill and the bike was in Preston and would not be delivered until Thursday 5th.

As I'm sure you will understand after all this I am tired, upset and a little let down!!!!

To cut all this short, I have since had a fortune spent on my bike by BMW to bring it back to the brand new condition it was in.

new Exhaust
ew front mudguard
new seat subframe
new shaft casings
new fairing panel
new rear wheel, after the first one was filled and sprayed over by the BMW agents in Italy. As soon as it arrived back at Jefferies BMW the technician rubbed his finger over the repair, which was clearly visible. The paint rubbed off!!
and some other bits and pieces I can't remember.

All my expenses were refunded.

The long and short of it is that BMW Motorrad came round in the end and supported my claim against Mondial. Mondial were and are a disgrace! I'm happy to say publicly.

On a lighter note, I'm setting off on hthe 30th May 2011 with a couple of mates to Barcelona for this tears MotoGP , puncture kits in hand!!

Mrs B is flying in to Barcelona on th Monday after and the two of us are riding across the south of France (Millau, Gorge du Tarn, Verdon Gorge and then probably up to the Dolomites and home. We'll see
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Old 04-29-2011, 02:31 AM   #10
griffin146
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Nice pics and places.
Crappy way to end though.
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:12 AM   #11
ghoran
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O-U-T-S-T-A-N-D-I-N-G !!!
I'm really sorry for you, I can only think that you were really unlucky...
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Old 04-29-2011, 03:31 AM   #12
Christian RA40XT
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Ah this is really interesting.
Cause maybe next Year I will also drive a K1300S. Nice to see that touring is still possible with his bike.....

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