ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Beasts
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-26-2009, 01:16 PM   #1
codyrides OP
The Milkman
 
codyrides's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Santa Fe, TN
Oddometer: 107
Wee K8 valve adjustment question.

So I have torn down and taken initial measurements for my valve adjustment. Shafts are still in, so I don’t know yet what my current shim sizes are. Either way I have a question.

All measurements, both intake and exhaust for both cylinders all measured very close to the thin side, or were indeed out of spec on the thin side. After looking at the diagrams and reading up a little bit on valve train wear. It would appear that the common knowledge is correct. Over time the valves seat themselves further and further in the head.

Front
E1 – .203
E2 – .229
I1 – .127
I2 - .152

Rear
E1 – .203
E2 – .203
I1 – .089
I2 - .102

When ordering replacement shims should I do my best to take the gap to the thicker side of spec? Theoretically this would allow for a longer run before adjustment was required again.

Applying the same logic above, while I have the bike torn down, should I go ahead and re-shim the valves that are just barely in spec, and take them to the thick side as well?

Thanks.
__________________
Cody - "The Milkman Delivers"

08 wee - mine
05 DR200SE - wife's
codyrides is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-26-2009, 01:52 PM   #2
minkyhead
Gnarly Adventurer
 
minkyhead's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Location: uk gods county
Oddometer: 282
yes id take them out as far as poss .....the shims are in inciments of .05
there no way of telling whats in till u lift the buckets

you may be lucky i was able to swap two around ..worked out quite well

the rear cam chain tensioner is a complete barsteward to get out good luck ...merry xmas
__________________
you must have been flying!! iwas going real fast when ipassed you
minkyhead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2009, 10:59 AM   #3
996DL
Buell me
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: too far from the Rockies...
Oddometer: 2,070
Do your mechanical homework on the two popular Vstrom sites, generally some of us shim for the middle of the range on all eight valves the first time around, so we don't even bother looking again for eons...

This can be frustrating, for at least with the Vee motor, the oem shims available from Suzuki were in .002" increments. If your local Suzuki dealer allows you to exchange (at a fee) your uneeded shims with his used shim selection, you'll find the elusive factory fitted half sized shims in his selection if you're lucky...

Otherwise by doing your homework on the Vstrom forums, you can check for other manufacturers (Honda etc...) whose shims are direct replacements for the oem Suzuki dimensions and in the instance of the one's used in the Vee, are available through Honda in .001" increments straight across the counter.

It'll all be covered in great depth on the Vstrom specific sites...

996DL
996DL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2009, 05:55 PM   #4
duckrider
Studly Adventurer
 
duckrider's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Southwest Orygun
Oddometer: 993
My preferred method is to lap the existing shims. A one inch mike, a sheet of 400 wet/dry paper. WD40 for lube, and a flat surface and you're in biz. It takes less than 5 min per shim, just rub it back and forth on the wet paper with your finger tip. Measure often. This way you can get exactly the clearance you want, not what the factory shims will allow. This is exactly the way a good Ducati mechanic will set the exhaust closers at the required nil to .001".

Let me say this before a bunch of opinions are posted (based on nothing more than a wild imagination) telling you why this should not be done. The factory shims are nothing more than tool steel, there is no surface treatment. They are ground and you are just continuing that process. Also, they are nothing more than a spacer between the valve and the bucket. It's best to lap the side with the size printed on it so some foolish person wouldn't install it based on the printed size. Mike all shims first, even new ones purchased from the dealer.

Use your own judgment, but this method has worked for me, and many people I know,for many years.
duckrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2009, 09:52 AM   #5
codyrides OP
The Milkman
 
codyrides's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Santa Fe, TN
Oddometer: 107
minkyhead - Thanks for the advice :) Using duckrider's method, I can take them out in a very precise and accurate manner.

duckrider - I like the way you think. Awesome suggestion (and one I am not afraid to try). I already have everything I need except for the wet/dry paper. I think I will anchor a pane of glass to my shop table with the paper crimped tight on the surface.
__________________
Cody - "The Milkman Delivers"

08 wee - mine
05 DR200SE - wife's
codyrides is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2009, 07:07 PM   #6
ntm
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Oddometer: 26
Some suggestions for DL650 valve adjustment:
http://www.yourfilelink.com/get.php?fid=523383

Nick
ntm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2009, 07:16 PM   #7
codyrides OP
The Milkman
 
codyrides's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Santa Fe, TN
Oddometer: 107
excellent info. Thanks Nick :)
__________________
Cody - "The Milkman Delivers"

08 wee - mine
05 DR200SE - wife's
codyrides is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2009, 04:59 PM   #8
T
FKA cyclingtom
 
T's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: DE
Oddometer: 4,595
Put them in the middle of the spec range (or as close as you can get). I'll assume this is your Wee's first valve adjustment. It's very unlikely they'll be out of spec again. I've done three valve checks on my 06; the first @18k the exhausts were on the tight side but still in spec. They haven't gone out of spec and I'm @ 55k now. Good luck with the rear cam chain tensioner...
T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-29-2009, 08:27 PM   #9
maydaymike
Gnarly Adventurer
 
maydaymike's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2008
Location: Jasper,AL
Oddometer: 238
The best way to deal with the cam chain tensioners is to leave it in place, and just remove the bolt in the middle that retains the tensioner spring.It's pretty easy to remove with this method using a ratchet, and 18" or so of extensions. There is a how to on this on one of the v-strom sites.
Another tip to save a lot of time... Instead of dealing with all the timing marks, just do one cam at a time, and mark the chain to the cam before you remove it. pull the cam, and use a large screwdriver handle, etc to keep a little tension on the chain, so that it can't fall off of the crank sprocket. As long as you line up your marks, and don't turn the engine with the cam out, it's really pretty hard to mess this up. I took some photos of this the last time I opened mine up. Maybe I'll post them up one of these days.
__________________
2010 Triumph Bonneville T100 69k (mine)
2013 Triumph Bonneville (hers)
1991 Honda Nighthawk 6k

The thing is Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care.

maydaymike screwed with this post 12-29-2009 at 09:05 PM
maydaymike is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2009, 05:37 AM   #10
submdi
Adventurer
 
submdi's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: South Australia
Oddometer: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by codyrides
So I have torn down and taken initial measurements for my valve adjustment.

Front
E1 .203
E2 .229
I1 .127
I2 - .152

Rear
E1 .203
E2 .203
I1 .089
I2 - .102



Thanks.
Well done for doing it yourself!!

I would like to know what gauges you used to obtain such accurate measurements? I've just done mine about a week ago, but the feeler gauges I used certainly would not have revealed such accuracy.

The only valve I was a little concerned with was the front left intake. I could easily fit a .10 but a .13 would not fit. I had nothing in between to find out exactly what it was. The rest of the clearances were middle range, but again, I could not measure to the 3rd decimal place.

Incidentally, I did not adjust the front left intake because, as I said, the .10 fitted easily, and it was the only valve close to it's lower limit. However, I will probably recheck in another 12000K's instead of 24000K's.
submdi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2009, 08:26 AM   #11
codyrides OP
The Milkman
 
codyrides's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Santa Fe, TN
Oddometer: 107
I just used an over the counter 40 blade feeler. Got it at autozone for $7. The thinnest blade is .015, and they go in roughly .03 increments. In some cases, if my measurement was between two larger blade sizes, I stacked thinner ones together to split the difference. Even with a little oil film on the blades, I expect I was able to get to within .015 of the true measurement. Close enough for me. I will just build that flaw into my measurement when I grind my shims.
__________________
Cody - "The Milkman Delivers"

08 wee - mine
05 DR200SE - wife's
codyrides is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-30-2009, 09:57 AM   #12
996DL
Buell me
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: too far from the Rockies...
Oddometer: 2,070
In the extremely distant past when I used to lap my shims to size for my 73 Ducati GT750, I would finish by beveling the edge of the surface I had just lapped, to remove any sharpness from leading edge of the shim's surface.
I don't mean to be insulting, by bringing up a point that most anyone lapping a shim would resort to, but I felt it worth adding just in case...

And by setting valve clearances on our own bikes and getting more comfortable with the procedures involved, we'll be hopefully far more at ease approaching desmodromic servicing, should we perhaps purchase a 1200 Multistrada somewhere down the road...

Hey, a guy can dream can't he !

996DL
996DL is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014