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Old 01-02-2010, 07:42 AM   #31
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Thomas
 
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Location: Dreary old Norway, dreaming of adventures past
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1tch
i went to Norway in June 2008. rode from Stavanger to the Arctic Circle, then back down to Bergen to catch the ferry home to England. a great country, with really friendly people.

people dont believe me when i tell them i had hot sunny weather i had most of the time. even Norwegians have jokes about the rain, just like us Brits

Trollstiggen, and the Geiranger Fjord are awesome. cant wait to see more
It's coming, but I'm afraid I've gone ahead of myself and forgot a day prior to the Geiranger leg

So despite what I wrote earlier, the next leg isn't Geiranger (it'll be up tomorrow though, so don't give up on me just yet)
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Old 01-02-2010, 07:52 AM   #32
M1tch
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ooops!1

lol we all make mistakes,,luckily a minor one that you made. i had the same problem . when i got home a could not remember where some of my photos were taken.

its a real shame the ferry no longer runs from Newcastle to Stavanger as i want to do another trip to Norway. now i will have to go a longer route.
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:31 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M1tch
lol we all make mistakes,,luckily a minor one that you made. i had the same problem . when i got home a could not remember where some of my photos were taken.

its a real shame the ferry no longer runs from Newcastle to Stavanger as i want to do another trip to Norway. now i will have to go a longer route.
I think the Smyri Line (sp?) ferry is still operating. You'll have to go up to Scotland I think and go via the Faroe Islands, but you'll end up in Norway.

I also think there's a ferry going from the UK to Kristiansand ? (The boys from Top Gear took that one, but that's a few years ago)
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Old 01-02-2010, 09:50 AM   #34
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Day 03 - 28/7-09
300 km - Total milage: 1127 km
Voss (Vinje) - Stryn




The sound of rain on the roof of the cabin made it hard to swing those legs out and down on the floor, but we had to, out schedule wasn't that flexible. Not that we were rushing anything either, don't get me wrong.

Wet and cold, but nice scenery and fun roads as we leave Voss and head north.


P: Lars


P: Lars

Again we couldn't be more lucky with the ferry. Pull up to the dock as the ferry is docking, basically just roll on.





Lars bought a new rain suit and left the BMW gore tex liner at home. At least it's yellow



Norway gets invaded by tourists each summer. Many, many motorhomes and caravans, but they are quick and easy to pass when you're on two wheels and aren't that big of a hassle. There is another kind of tourist aswell and it seemed they were all on this ferry. I'd say about 70 germans. On 68 bikes.




P: Lars

They were on a guided tour. I counted at least three support vehicles and we had a quick huddle and laid out the strategy as the ferry neared shore. They were probably riding in groups of 10 and 10 with a guide in each group. That meant that they would probably pull in to the side after disembarking to get organized. The plan was to ride past as many as we could as soon as we hit terra firma - we knew the road would be winding, wet, one lane and almost all the corners would be blind for many miles to come and a train of bikes is harder to pass than a few caravans...we had to pass them all...


P: Lars


P: Lars

To quote a funny movie Quick as you can, quick as you can (Rock Star)
Just as I took off my left mirror came loose and was swinging violently from side to side as we raced off the ferry and around most of the bikes, between oncoming traffic waiting to board (not really, just for dramatic effect I swear) and made it onto the road just behind the first group of Germans. A few clicks and we were up front deciding the pace and slowly but surely pulling away into solitude as the weather began to turn.


P: Lars


P: Lars

Had a stop to look at the views and just as I came to a halt I noticed my water temp light was on. It died soon after and I didn't think much of it.



Down the other side of the mountain we were on "the worst road in Norway"


P: Lars


P: Lars

It was bad and I don't evny the people living here having to use this as a main road. It had some highlights though









We pulled into a gas station for a break and a cup of coffee.


P: Lars

I don't know if you're all aware of this, but I'm very, very clever. One of the smartest I know infact

Joking aside, my very first Lazer MX helmet had a great shade on it. I was never blinded by the sun even when it was setting, but since I replaced it I've had to mask out all the goggles I've owned with black electrical tape. This works very well, but looks a bit daft and can be a bit messy when residue from the glue makes dust and stuff stick to the edge of the tape.

So here's the clever bit that came to me in a dream (it didn't really).
Mask the inside of the lenses with regular masking tape, spraypaint the top with a color of your choice (I used flat black) and hey presto ! Looks very good and is real easy to clean.


P: Lars

We rode on. It was getting to that time of day when you start looking for a site to pitch a tent


P: Lars

We found a nice place with a decent view and Lars took care of dinner



While I played around with my recently purchased Zumo 660, trying to plot next days route (to Geiranger this time - no for real, it's coming !)


P: Lars





edit:typo

.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 04:33 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tagesk
Normally I don't add to the ERRI before it is finished, but for a Norwegian thread I'll make an exception.

[start ENCRYPTION]
Ta gjerne med detaljer om hvor dere bodde (GPS-posisjon, telefonnummer etc) så blir rapporten enda mer nyttig for andre.
Fine greier!
[end ENCRYPTION]


[TaSK]
Thanks Tage, didn't expect that.... now I must deliver
I'll try to include GPS positions and as much detailed info as I can recollect. Don't think I have any phone numbers, we didn't really have to call any places other than up in the Lofoten islands (will get to that in a couple of days).
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 08:34 AM   #36
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Day 04 - 29/7-09
210 km - Total milage: 1481 km
Stryn - Åndalsnes


I feel I've somewhat built it up now so I hope I deliver

First we'd make our way up from Stryn via the old road across Strynefjell (Stryn Mountain) to Grotli. Tracks on the GPS was set too far apart to get an accurate beginning of the old road, but if you go here [ GPS: N61 56.288 E7 15.806 ] you're on the old road (B on this map is on the old road)



I'd been here before, but never past the summer ski center (only open during summer, coordinates over) where the road goes from sealed to unsealed.

The road going up is very much like most other mountain roads; narrow and winding. I had a pretty bad off into the woods back in the fall of 2003. Did a full forward summersault while still sitting on the bike. I was extremely lucky I wore a back protecter (otherwise I'd be wheelchair bound today) and the bike only suffered cosmetic damage apart from a totalled front wheel. It would suck so bad to miss a corner on these roads I don't even wanna think about it. Good views though


P: Lars





The road was not sealed after the ski center, but the gravel is packed so hard it's almost like if it were. The ride across to national road 15 was quite uneventful. The skies were grey and it was pretty cold this high, but we only got a few drops of rain.

My oldest friend's parents are from Geiranger so they have a summerhouse there. That's why I've been to Geiranger a few times before, but I'd never been to the top of Dalsnibba. Unlike the US or Australia (where I've done most of my travels) most Norwegian mountains don't have roads to the top of them..... but Dalsnibba does. They charge a hefty toll ofcourse, we are afterall in Norway.

On the top we are greeted by this. "Dau" is slang for "dead" where we're from.... omen much ?



It was so effin cold up there, with very strong winds and light rain (which becomes very hard in the wind), but you can't complain when this is what you're looking at



And the road down there


P: Lars



We had planned to go see the bridge this day (remember from the first post) so we had to get a move on. Between us and the bridge were at least two other sights..

The road back down from Dalsnibba


P: Lars

And the descent down to Geiranger


P: Lars

We made it down to the fjord and around, between and almost over the tourists. Not complaining about tourists per say, I am one myself, but it really is bad in Geiranger. Two big cruise ships were anchored up in the fjord and all the passengers were ashore. Geiranger's not that big....

We made it to Dag's parents house. I knew Dag was on holiday in the US, but thought maybe someone was home. We could really use a cup of warm coffee at this point. Dag's dad was there and made us coffee. He even had some cookies hidden away and to top it off he'd smoked salmon in the private smokehouse down in the garden. I believe we had a taste of honey and cognac smoked on juniper branches. Sigh.

From the terrace we had a good vantagepoint of where we had come from (Dalsnibba in the red cirlce)





But we didn't have time to hang around for more than an hour and a half or so. We had to see about a bridge.

The fjord is very deep (some 400 meters, the mountains surrounding the fjords continue with the same slopes under water) so the ships are moored to land. Behind the ship you can see the opposite side of the fjord where the road out is. Just to the left out of frame there's a steep climb called Ørneveien (Eagles road), topped of with Ørnesvingen (Eagles bend) before you continue up and over the pass to Eidsdal for the ferry across the next fjord.



Dalsnibba - Geiranger - Ørneveien



From Eagles bend

There's not much room to park so I thought we could just ride onto the viewing point itself. I'm sure no one would mind (and no one did....at least out loud....to us). A couple of Swedes arrived right after we did and the first one followed our lead (blue DR Big), but the others stopped by the side of the road.





Looking out the Geiranger fjord



Panning left toward the end and Geiranger itself




P: Lars




P: Lars


P: Lars

Sometimes when I'm out riding I secretly wish I had a car with AC or a heater when I need that, and a roof to keep me dry. Instead, as motorcyclists, we have to walk around touristy places like this dressed for success.


P: Lars


P: Lars

How do you recognise a motorcyclist (apart from the riding gear and the bike ofcourse); they always take pictures of the road and corners

Eagle bend



At the time of our arrival to Eagle bend there were close to no people there, but within a couple of minutes there were hundreds there (ok, fifty) and a bit awkward to get the bikes off the tourist attraction and back on the road.

We managed though and rode the last few corners to the top of the pass and over to Eidsdal where we met these to guys on bikes waiting for the ferry (which wasn't far away). On the other side of the fjord the guys took off a bit infront of us, but we found them again as soon as we arrived at the next scenic view sign





They'd build this thing out of stainless and regular steel creating a cool effect





The bridge zig-zag'd back and forth across some water which I believe was the real sight there









We pressed on. It was getting too late in the day to go all the way out to the Atlantic Coast Road now, but we weren't that far from Trollstigen [ GPS: N62 27.209 E7 39.829 ].

This is deer country



When we got there it turned out there was a lot of construction going on and the new-ish viewing platform was closed


P: Lars


P: Lars

See the people ?


P: Lars


P: Lars

The edge and down the ladder (Trollstigen translates to Troll's ladder).


P: Lars

I decided to come back some other time and get the full view of Trollstigen and just ride it for what it was worth this time



Looking back at the valley we had just ridden down.


P: Lars


P: Lars

The weather was getting so-so and we decided to find a cabin before we got soaked

Found an ok place (poor amenities building) and aired out some riding gear before digging into dinner
Korsbakken camping [ GPS: N62 34.120 E7 35.061 ]


P: Lars


P: Lars

Tomorrow would be the day where I'd get to see the bridge !

Here are some pictures of Trollstigen from around the web


photobucket.com


nordlicht.ch

Better keep your eyes open racing up or down here


mediabasen.no






.
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 08:48 AM   #37
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Great Ride Report. Hook em Horns. TEXAS. National Championship. Hopefully.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:00 AM   #38
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Beautiful Lars. Just simply beautiful. Thanks for the work of sharing your journey with us.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:08 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by FotoTEX
Great Ride Report. Hook em Horns. TEXAS. National Championship. Hopefully.
Hey I picked up a long horns tee when I was in Houston
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 09:09 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by achesley
Beautiful Lars. Just simply beautiful. Thanks for the work of sharing your journey with us.
Thanks
I've mixed and matched mine and Lars' pictures, but given credit where credit is due
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 09:30 AM   #41
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Norge

VERY NICE RIDE REPORT
FINALLY A GOOD REPORT FROM NORWAY
HALVOR
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:21 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker

P: Lars



Good place to stay the night that. ;)





Quote:
Originally Posted by IRONIVAR
VERY NICE RIDE REPORT
FINALLY A GOOD REPORT FROM NORWAY
HALVOR
I tried. Sorry. :(
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508382

More words/pics required?


Great RR Gravelseeker. Bringing back some great memories.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:44 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by AdamAbel
Good place to stay the night that. ;)

I tried. Sorry. :(
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=508382
More words/pics required?

Great RR Gravelseeker. Bringing back some great memories.
Thank you

Seems you had better luck with the weather than we did. Stunning picture - when was that ?

I've checked out your RR before and the videos are great ! Please do add to it with pictures and a few words ! Winter's long up here (-23oC here now and 60cm or so on the ground) - we can all use more reports
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'01 F650 Dakar - modified as best I can

2005: Australia - 8 months/ 26.000 km (anti clockwise circle)
2009: Norway - 2 weeks/ 6000 km (Lindesnes to North cape)

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Old 01-03-2010, 11:47 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Gravel Seeker
Thank you

Seems you had better luck with the weather than we did. Stunning picture - when was that ?
It was the end of June, beginning of July 2009. Pic was about 23:00 hours.
Yeah the weather was too hot if anything.
Mostly 33-35 degrees, and seeing as I had planned for the normal wet weather I was a tad warm in my Rukka. Funners faired a bit better in his BMW gear but we could really have done with mesh vented gear....
Ended up having one afternoon on the way to Trondheim where it lashed down but otherwise it was like riding alongside the Mediterranean for the most part.

Quote:
I've checked out your RR before and the videos are great ! Please do add to it with pictures and a few words ! Winter's long up here (-23oC here now and 60cm or so on the ground) - we can all use more reports
Will do. Just resizing my pics now as that ones a tad large huh?
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Old 01-03-2010, 12:56 PM   #45
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Truly Stunning!!! Keep it coming. Seems like a perfect mix of photos and storyline to me. Thank you for taking the time to put it all together for the rest of us.

Patiently waiting for more......
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