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Old 01-31-2011, 06:28 PM   #376
elite-less
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I miss dry pavement.....
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Old 01-31-2011, 06:28 PM   #377
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Looks mighty fine.


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Old 02-01-2011, 12:25 PM   #378
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the bike looks so nice! its what I want to do to my R90.. .now I have a lot of infor I need to get mine in shape! glad you started this thread! thumbs up for sure!
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Old 02-01-2011, 01:06 PM   #379
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Nice job, Blaine!
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:21 PM   #380
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Blaine,

What did you figure out on your front suspension. I am doing mine, got progressive springs from Hucky, and noticed they are shorter than the ones I took out. Origonal springs = 577 mm and replacements = 554 mm, almost an inch shorter.

My forks did not have any preload spacers on the top caps, but 1 inch shorter would make em dive.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:33 PM   #381
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Blaine,

What did you figure out on your front suspension. I am doing mine, got progressive springs from Hucky, and noticed they are shorter than the ones I took out. Origonal springs = 577 mm and replacements = 554 mm, almost an inch shorter.

My forks did not have any preload spacers on the top caps, but 1 inch shorter would make em dive.
Did they come with any plastic tube preload spacers? Usually just experiment with the tubes starting long and gradually shortening them until you get the spring rate you're comfortable with.

If you'd like to pass those old stock springs along to someone who'd appreicate a smoother ride, let me know!

cheers,
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:33 PM   #382
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Originally Posted by SDVET View Post
Blaine,

What did you figure out on your front suspension. I am doing mine, got progressive springs from Hucky, and noticed they are shorter than the ones I took out. Origonal springs = 577 mm and replacements = 554 mm, almost an inch shorter.

My forks did not have any preload spacers on the top caps, but 1 inch shorter would make em dive.
This issue kind of just worked itself out, honestly. I don't have issue with sag or terrible dive anymore. I do suggest making or buying spacers though, I do have them installed with my progressive springs.
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Old 02-08-2011, 07:35 PM   #383
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I should probably add this to my thread as well. Still having some carb balance issues and not getting the full power out of the engine. The ignition is set slightly retarded because the carbs just won't stop acting up and idle way too high. I'm reaaaally debating buying a set of mikunis and just being done with it.

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Old 02-08-2011, 07:40 PM   #384
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Stick with the Bings until they're right, Blaine. Nothing going on there that can't be resolved with a bit of thoughtful effort.

Start a thread. Lots of opinions available to you on this site.

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Old 02-09-2011, 09:33 AM   #385
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The ignition is set slightly retarded because the carbs just won't stop acting up and idle way too high. I'm reaaaally debating buying a set of mikunis and just being done with it.
Resolve the issue with the Bings first! High idle is caused by air leaks - look for a loose intake spigot or tubes or damaged jet o-rings. Mostly what I've found are damaged o-rings.

After having gone through everything like you have it can be frustrating going through it again. But check those o-rings - they've tripped me up enough times that's where I go first when it runs rough.
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Old 02-09-2011, 10:06 AM   #386
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Resolve the issue with the Bings first! High idle is caused by air leaks - look for a loose intake spigot or tubes or damaged jet o-rings. Mostly what I've found are damaged o-rings.

After having gone through everything like you have it can be frustrating going through it again. But check those o-rings - they've tripped me up enough times that's where I go first when it runs rough.
Thanks for the tips. I've actually replaced all the o-rings twice now just because I thought the same thing. There's an airleak somewhere because one carb acts like it's sliiiightly on choke. Checked and double checked all the boots and made sure they all we're clamped and sealed but just can't seem to pin point the issue. I've replaced about 90% of the internals too including jets, atomizer etc.
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Old 02-09-2011, 11:29 AM   #387
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have you checked the metal spigots where the carb boots attach to the heads? if those aren't tight you can get an air leak there.


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Thanks for the tips. I've actually replaced all the o-rings twice now just because I thought the same thing. There's an airleak somewhere because one carb acts like it's sliiiightly on choke. Checked and double checked all the boots and made sure they all we're clamped and sealed but just can't seem to pin point the issue. I've replaced about 90% of the internals too including jets, atomizer etc.

bmwblake screwed with this post 02-09-2011 at 11:43 AM
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Old 02-09-2011, 05:54 PM   #388
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Try the WD40 leak finder trick. spray until you notice an idle change so you can at least find the leak. The WD40 will block it long enough for the idle to change.
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Old 02-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #389
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Try the WD40 leak finder trick. spray until you notice an idle change so you can at least find the leak. The WD40 will block it long enough for the idle to change.
Starting fluid/ether works too and doesnt leave stuff as oily.
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Old 02-10-2011, 06:02 AM   #390
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Ooo. That's one thing I can try this weekend.
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