ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Old's Cool > Airheads
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-24-2011, 04:07 AM   #466
More_Miles
über-n00b
 
More_Miles's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Location: New Brunswick Canada
Oddometer: 312
Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Anyone have a recommendation for bars that are an inch or two higher rise than the stock r90S bars?
Currently have some magura "europa" bars and hate them. They actually dip down and are way too narrow.

All the flanders/maguras here are way too angular for my liking: http://www.sideroadcycles.com/Import...lebarsBMW.html

It seems like stock BMW bars have way smoother bends to them, less abrupt.
Might be a crazy suggestion, but what about some RT bars? Could be a bit too much though.
__________________
Larger than life and twice as ugly!
My photos: stewie.smugmug.com
More_Miles is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 04:47 AM   #467
chasbmw
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Bath Uk
Oddometer: 1,685
it is a crazy suggestion RT bars look very strange on a non faired bike.

I ran my bike like that for a couple of years after I took the fairing off.

standard US wide bars are maybe OK but personally I would not want to go any wider. I actually find that Magura S bars are fine, behind a S fairing, especially if using a tank bag on a long trip.
__________________
Charles
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps6e61ae2e.jpg
R90s 1070 replica, R90/6
1971 Commando Fastback
chasbmw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2011, 06:32 AM   #468
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Thanks guys! Ended up going with the standard US 5 inch rise bars. I'll put my euros back on after the trip.
I have the S fairing mounted with these now too, just not in the pics:




Not bad for $35 on fleabay!
The clutch cable was a bit too short but does actually work. I'm carrying a spare US length clutch cable with me on the trip incase that one decides to pop
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 08:11 AM   #469
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Well, this may as well go down in the saga.
The thread on the end of the cam shaft that holds the points down sheered right off. This requires a cam replacement. Next, the bolt holding the rotor on the crank backed out at a 45 degree angle and seized. So I need to extract it some how and re-tap the threads.
I let it sit for a month to mellow the pain and frustration and I'm ready to get to tearing it down this week.
Come on by if you'd like to help and have a beer Atlanta folks!
Guess I'm going to going at it every night this week from 6pm on.
Maybe I'll have it down to the bottom end by the weekend and ready for Beater's most gracious spare bottom end donation!
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 10:47 AM   #470
hardwaregrrl
You talkin' to me?
 
hardwaregrrl's Avatar
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Atlanta
Oddometer: 6,667
Aww Blaine. I hate to hear this. But it's also pretty cool that you've been given the parts to repair it!! I'd love to swing by one nite and offer up some moral support!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Well, this may as well go down in the saga.
The thread on the end of the cam shaft that holds the points down sheered right off. This requires a cam replacement. Next, the bolt holding the rotor on the crank backed out at a 45 degree angle and seized. So I need to extract it some how and re-tap the threads.
I let it sit for a month to mellow the pain and frustration and I'm ready to get to tearing it down this week.
Come on by if you'd like to help and have a beer Atlanta folks!
Guess I'm going to going at it every night this week from 6pm on.
Maybe I'll have it down to the bottom end by the weekend and ready for Beater's most gracious spare bottom end donation!
hardwaregrrl is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 11:39 AM   #471
mykill
odd
 
mykill's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 1,156
Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
Well, this may as well go down in the saga.
The thread on the end of the cam shaft that holds the points down sheered right off. This requires a cam replacement. Next, the bolt holding the rotor on the crank backed out at a 45 degree angle and seized. So I need to extract it some how and re-tap the threads.
I let it sit for a month to mellow the pain and frustration and I'm ready to get to tearing it down this week.
Come on by if you'd like to help and have a beer Atlanta folks!
Guess I'm going to going at it every night this week from 6pm on.
Maybe I'll have it down to the bottom end by the weekend and ready for Beater's most gracious spare bottom end donation!
Call Gary at RPM Cycles in Ventura CA. Years ago he was telling me he had a workable solution to the sheared cam end issue. May be worth exploring before you start ripping into things.
__________________
Never underestimate the laxative properties of motorcycling.
mykill is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 11:49 AM   #472
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by mykill View Post
Call Gary at RPM Cycles in Ventura CA. Years ago he was telling me he had a workable solution to the sheared cam end issue. May be worth exploring before you start ripping into things.
I might just do that. I filed the surface flat and started to drill a centered hole to tap out and put a bolt in last night. Problem is, drilling that is ridiculously hard and it may not be a PERFECT center.
Maybe I can find a bit more suited for drilling steel.
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 12:10 PM   #473
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Is it remotely possible to pull a cam without dropping the engine out the frame? I'm thinking maybe pull the jugs and just the front wheel then I can something in there to pull the cam out.
Also, what tools are used to pull a cam and/or crank?
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 12:11 PM   #474
pkboxer
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2011
Location: cincinnatus oh
Oddometer: 82
Snowbum cam tip fix

Just a link to snowbum's thoughts on fixing the cam tip

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
pkboxer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #475
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by pkboxer View Post
Just a link to snowbum's thoughts on fixing the cam tip

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/cams.htm
Ahah! He's doing exactly what I assumed you could do and I'm already doing. I just don't know if I'm perfectly centered. I used a right angle at two points to find the center of a circle.
Also...drilling through that forged steel is ridiculously hard. I need a sharp bit, good oil and the right RPM.
Lastly...I need to make some kind of jig to hold it right. No clue where to go with that one.

*Edit: Looks like I can buy this sucker after work and maybe a decent metal bit
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ocStoreNum=159
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650

blaine.hale screwed with this post 09-26-2011 at 12:39 PM
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 01:56 PM   #476
ontic
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Location: LaoPDR/Australia.
Oddometer: 1,037
Damn Blaine,
sorry to hear of your troubles.
I hope you figure out an easier solution than pulling the cam. Some damn good wrenching skills you'll learn if you do though.

With the single seat and the panniers you're bike is starting to look like a much cleaner and better lived sister (or at least cousin) of mine- I like it!





Whatever you do, IMO don't get impatient and drill before you know you are at center- that harbour freight drill guide looks like it might be helpful.
I wonder if you could somehow spin the crank and push the drill bit into it (with that clamp) and this way even if you have clamped a tiny bit off center the hole will remain at center (picture turning a wooden bowl on a lathe).
Spark plugs out, crank it over with the starter, and push the drill bit in to the crank tip? I don't even know which way the crank spins though you might need a left handed bit.
You wouldn't have to get the entire hole drilled this way, just a good start to locate it?

Good luck,
post pictures
__________________
1974 R90/6
1981 R80G/S
1994 XLR250R
ontic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 04:27 PM   #477
Airhead Wrangler
Adios Mexico
 
Airhead Wrangler's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Back in Seattle, FINALLY
Oddometer: 6,281
Or you could just get a crank mounted ignition and forget the whole mess. As an added bonus you'd have a better ignition system too. You already have an enduralast so you could get one of these:

http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/EnD..._p/edl-ign.htm

__________________
R80ST Gets The HPN Treatment
Seattle to TDF on an airhead

Current rides: HPN #834, '93 R100GSPD "red rocket", '73 R75/5 Toaster mongrel, '80 Ducati Pantah 500SL, '92 DR350, '67 Honda SS50, '80 Honda Chaly.
Airhead Wrangler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 04:40 PM   #478
Max Headroom
lost in the '70s
 
Max Headroom's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: New Zealand
Oddometer: 501
Blaine, I had a similar issue with my R90/6 many years ago, and I resolved it by drilling and tapping into the end of the cam and fitting a short threaded stud. I don't recall the cam material being extemely tough to drill into, although it may have had a surface hardening that took a bit of patience from memory. I had a friend help to line up the drill-bit by eye.
__________________
'76 R90S silver smoke
'75 R90/6 hybrid

"Don't worry, it's not loaded."
last words of Chicago's Terry Kath before shooting himself in 1978
Max Headroom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 06:29 PM   #479
blaine.hale OP
Beastly Adventurer
 
blaine.hale's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Atlanta, Ga
Oddometer: 2,851
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post
Blaine, I had a similar issue with my R90/6 many years ago, and I resolved it by drilling and tapping into the end of the cam and fitting a short threaded stud. I don't recall the cam material being extemely tough to drill into, although it may have had a surface hardening that took a bit of patience from memory. I had a friend help to line up the drill-bit by eye.
That's really reassuring mate, thank you!
I bought a pretty neat drill guide...it may come in handy later with other stuff as I don't have a drill press!
I also bought the correct bit and tap/die kit. If I could afford a crank mounted system I would buy one and be done with it! I love easy solutions sometimes haha.
Unfortunately, buying my first home has my fund tied up the next few months. :(

Even when I get this little bit resolved, I still have the crank bolt to deal with. Hopefully I have a spare one and the right tap to clean the thread when I manage to get it out.
I'm drilling tomorrow. I'll keep ya'll posted.
__________________
1974 BMW R90 /6
1968 Bultaco Matador MK3
1973 BMW R75 /5 Toaster LWB
1969 Bultaco Bandido MK2
2013 Husqvarna Terra TR650
blaine.hale is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2011, 07:01 PM   #480
mykill
odd
 
mykill's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Oddometer: 1,156
I'd buy a Boyer over bits.
__________________
Never underestimate the laxative properties of motorcycling.
mykill is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 10:07 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014