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Old 05-12-2012, 07:35 AM   #511
blaine.hale OP
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Originally Posted by Airhead Wrangler View Post
This can be sticking ignition advance weights. I've also had one of my butterfly plates come a little loose in the shaft and it moved a little off center so it wouldn't seal well when the throttle would close. A quick chop and release of the throttle would center it again return it to idle temporarily.
Boyer electronic ignition
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:58 PM   #512
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Make sure the carbs are adjusted and synched when the engine is hot.

And yes, it's normal when it's jetted and tuned right to need choke on start up. And mine all need a blip of the throttle to get em going.

Try cleaning the pads and discs to eliminate the squeal. Especially clean out the holes in the disc.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:23 AM   #513
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Make sure the carbs are adjusted and synched when the engine is hot.

And yes, it's normal when it's jetted and tuned right to need choke on start up. And mine all need a blip of the throttle to get em going.

Try cleaning the pads and discs to eliminate the squeal. Especially clean out the holes in the disc.
Holes!? Man that's a luxury.

I guess I should sync the carbs at running temps. I usually crank it, get a steady idle at 900-1000 (I like it in that range) then adjust them. That may be what's getting me in trouble.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:46 AM   #514
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Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
I guess I should sync the carbs at running temps.
If you're just syncing your cables (off idle), then it doesn't really matter what temps you're at. For setting idle speed and mixture it needs to be up to temp.

Also, "running temp" does not mean adjust them after letting it idle for 5 minutes. Running temp means go take it for a ride for at least 20 minutes or so. Don't just idle it.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:31 AM   #515
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If you're just syncing your cables (off idle), then it doesn't really matter what temps you're at. For setting idle speed and mixture it needs to be up to temp.

Also, "running temp" does not mean adjust them after letting it idle for 5 minutes. Running temp means go take it for a ride for at least 20 minutes or so. Don't just idle it.
Haha, I definitely know that one. It also helps to run it for a while then put some shop fans on those cylinders while your idle and adjusting the things.

Also, just to clarify..I don't need to like full throttle gun it when starting, it is pretty much a blip. If anything, what you're saying is reassuring that mine isn't the only one that needs choke and throttle to start up.

Any recommendations on what to clean the pads and disk with? Also, a mirror polished shiny disk should not be the case, right? My disk seems to be shinier than a mirror (the pads are new.)
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:59 AM   #516
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If anything, what you're saying is reassuring that mine isn't the only one that needs choke and throttle to start up.
If you DON'T need choke to start then you're running way rich. Sounds like you're fine

As for your brakes, you just need to break the glaze on them. Rough up both the discs and the pads with some medium grit, 150 or so, sand paper and they should bed in better and stop squealing. Any "unsightly" scratching on the discs will get wiped away before too long.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:11 PM   #517
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Crud and oils are swept into the holes, then when the disc heats up under braking, that stuff can seep back onto the disc. I've used a drill bit (held in the hand) same size as the holes to clean them out, or a circular wire brush.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:14 PM   #518
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Crud and oils are swept into the holes, then when the disc heats up under braking, that stuff can seep back onto the disc.
I think he actually has the solid undrilled rotors.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:20 PM   #519
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I think he actually has the solid undrilled rotors.

Yep ... a '74.
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:22 PM   #520
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Somebody stole your holes?
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:27 PM   #521
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Somebody stole your holes?
Who undrilled these?!

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Old 05-14-2012, 04:37 PM   #522
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Have you adjusted the cam to center the caliper to the disc???
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Old 05-14-2012, 04:47 PM   #523
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Have you adjusted the cam to center the caliper to the disc???
I did upon the rebuild but it's something can circle back and check again.
Yes, I have those lovely solid disks. Beater sold me a drilled one, I just need to blast it before it goes on my clean bike
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:28 AM   #524
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Haven't posted pics in a while. I don't have my camera equipment currently so here's some phone pics :)



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Old 05-15-2012, 09:12 AM   #525
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I have seen arguments that the solid rotors were just as good but I can't get over the way they look maybe. They just don't look as sure as a drilled disk. I think there is an advantage in the rain with drilled.
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