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Old 10-03-2012, 11:06 AM   #571
airhead_irl
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Just read your thread from start to finish. Great read.
How are you finding your Hoske pipes ? Did you leave the baffle inserted ?
I have them on my '82 R100 but found them "hollow" sounding with the baffles removed.
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Old 10-03-2012, 03:18 PM   #572
danedg
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It's $11 US

http://www.bingcarburetor.com/

Just get one.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:50 PM   #573
melville
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale View Post
You mean that dead weight? I chucked that thing a couple years back and just flip the levers up on the carb bodies. Extra effort but it looks nicer. The only thing I don't like is riding with choke on then having to reach down and turn them off real quick or skillfully.
You need you a pair of these (updated design on the right):



Keep your hands on top!
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:54 AM   #574
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I do need to order some pulls or make some. I've just gotten so used to my method that it's not even a thought now, kind of like not having a side stand because I'm stubborn and only use a CC.

Anyone have a preference on the NGK bp7es vs. the bp6es? Would running a cooler plug result in fuel not burning as well as it should be and blackening the plug?
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:55 AM   #575
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Is there anything to look for with a long warm up cycle?
I got the carbs adjusted after a 45 min ride this past weekend. Idling pretty well around 900 and pulling smooth. The plugs were looking great too. The usually black one was coming back down to a whiter/chocolate color
All that sounds great if I'm doing a long ride and have oodles of time to get the bike up to temp..

This morning (about 48 degrees) I pulled the ol' r90 out and cranked her up on full choke. Cranked right away but needed some throttle for a second to maintain an idle on choke. Going anywhere was out of the questions, too much throttle killed it. I decided to go move the car, then get my jacket and helmet on and put the dog in her crate....so about 5 min of the bike running on choke.
Pulled it off choke and rode off. Hesitates a fair amount on that first 1/4 throttle for 2 or 3 miles then it starts being fine through the rev range. 20 minutes and 7 miles (yeah I ride right through the city) in and I still can't maintain an idle. Pull into work after about 30 min and I'm luck to idle at 400-500 and keep it alive. I'm willing to bet that if I went on an interstate ride and got it through the revs it would idle just fine.....maybe I should have an EFI bike for that in the city commute?

Does this seem normal?
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:34 AM   #576
Kai Ju
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It shouldn't take that long to warm up.
Make sure your intake spigots are tight in the head. Easy way to check is to make sure the hoseclamps on the head side are tight and loosen the clamp at the elbow. Try and rotate the carb. If you can, the spigot is loose.
Tighten the spigot and start your carb tuning again.
BTW, you should be able to starve and drown your engine with the mixture screw, i.e. when you turn it out it should get too rich, when you turn it in it should get too lean.
If you can't drown it then either the pilot jet is partially clogged or you have an airleak, see above.
From your decription of warm up i doubt that it's too big/rich.
While your at it also check the enrichener gaskets. make sure your not sucking falsche luft.

Good luck
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:39 AM   #577
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
It shouldn't take that long to warm up.
+1. 10-15 minutes of riding and it should idle fine.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:50 AM   #578
blaine.hale OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai Ju View Post
It shouldn't take that long to warm up.
Make sure your intake spigots are tight in the head. Easy way to check is to make sure the hoseclamps on the head side are tight and loosen the clamp at the elbow. Try and rotate the carb. If you can, the spigot is loose.
Tighten the spigot and start your carb tuning again.
BTW, you should be able to starve and drown your engine with the mixture screw, i.e. when you turn it out it should get too rich, when you turn it in it should get too lean.
If you can't drown it then either the pilot jet is partially clogged or you have an airleak, see above.
From your decription of warm up i doubt that it's too big/rich.
While your at it also check the enrichener gaskets. make sure your not sucking falsche luft.

Good luck
ooo. This was some good info. It's very likely I have a leak somewhere.
Now that you mention it. I could kill the bike in a hurry on the right carb by turning the mixture more than 1/2 either way. It wants to be happy at 1 turn out. However, the left carb just lowers and raises the idle...even when I turn it all the way in and like 2-3 turns out. It sounds like my right carb is acting normal but the left may have a gunky pilot jet. It's highly likely the o-ring got shredded on the threads and a bit caught in there...I'll check that out.
So it looks like I'm bisecting things down further and further and I'm not at the fine tuning of looking for tiny tiny air leaks and a possible gunky pilot on the left side.
I'll report back tonight <3

*edit: Well the right side idle jet did not have an O-ring. I don't remember doing or not doing that, heh. I put a new one on but it hasn't made any difference. I've heard you can run w/o the o-rings in an emergency anyways.

Another thing to throw in the mix. Is it common to BARELY feel any exhaust when the bike is at idle around 800-1000 rpm? I can't feel much until it's reved. I'm speaking of compression, of cours. Which, my cylinders both read over 145 on the compression gauge.
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blaine.hale screwed with this post 10-09-2012 at 11:39 AM
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:06 PM   #579
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Pulled the left carb off (i just cleaned it last week) and noticed some lovely leakage on the elbow and from the choke:



Pulling off the choke revealed the tiniest imperfections on the casting that possibly allowed air to leak:



I pulled a smooth one off the r75 and buttoned everything back together. Still pulling incredibly rough at 1/4 throttle. Somehow my cables got out of sync (*grumble.) I sync them back up the best I can in the dark and go for a ride. Idles pretty well now but there's still a slight grumble in the first 1/4 throttle. I'm willing to be that after buttoning everything up air tight and fiddling with the cables, things got out of sync a bit. I'll do my sync routine tomorrow.
The engine was already pretty warm when I went on that test ride, I'll see if my warm up has shortened tomorrow morning :)
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:18 AM   #580
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Big thank you to Kai Ju!
My warm up time was cut in half. After about 10 minutes of riding, i could hover around 400-500 rpm and not die. By the time I got 3/4 to work, I was at full idle around 900 rpm.
Only thing left to sort out is syncing up and figuring out why it hates the first quarter throttle. It was only wanting to start on one cylinder this morning for a while...which is how it feels on 1/4 throttle, like one cylinder is playing catch up.
My best guess is the float level is too low on the left carb and i'm not getting fuel properly up to the idle jet.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:55 PM   #581
Kai Ju
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Thanks

The symptoms you're describing could be due to either too small of a pilot jet or a partially clogged pilot jet.
I found out the hard way on my bike when I inadvertantly installed two different size pilot jets when I tried to get my 38 Mikunis dialed in.
I had 22.5 on the left and 25 on the right and it made a world of difference when I went to 25s on both sides.
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:48 PM   #582
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I had similar issues on my old r90/6 last year, and cleaning this passage did the trick.

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Old 11-05-2012, 12:55 PM   #583
blaine.hale OP
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It's time I crowd source this issue.
Fred and I have some ideas but I'm saving them for last effort kind of thing.

Symptoms:
The bike will crank (some hesitation) then run really really rough until 4-5k rpm. By rough, I mean one cylinder just bogging and dropping (right cylinder.) Once I get up to speed and warm it up a little bit on interstate...if I can convince it to do that, coming back off the throttle to slower speeds will kill the right cylinder and cause some nasty back firing.

Here's what's been done so far:
Pulled both carbs, cleaned and inspected all jets and tunnels. Everything was super spotless and float height was great and still is great for the past year. I blew compressed air through every single channel/tunnel to insure all blockages were clear. On top of this, being that I now have Hoske pipes with more flow, I bumped the idle jet to 50 (no difference made, at the moment.)
Next was electrical. Timing was slightly retarded, so I fixed that (no effect) spark was great when I pulled the plugs and cranked them a bit. Resistance is all fine. 3 sets of coils off of all working/running bikes were tried. 3 sets of plug cables all tested as well. Even crossed the cables to see if it was one side failing (nope.) 2 ignitions tested. Boyer electronic and stock points.
Finally, reset the valve lash. Right side was dead on. Left side was a bit tight (weird.) No valves are sticking, I can watch them go through their motions
All of that done and still the exact same issue, no improvement ANYWHERE.

Way back when, the top of the cam sheered off where you put a nut on to retain the points. This was drilled and tapped out for a screw. I know for a fact that it is not deaaaad center (pretty close.) Could this be the issue?
Could the slight off center bolt up there caused the bearings to warp a bit and not open the valves at the right time and/or screwed the cam?

I know I can pull one top end, put the piston at half on the cylinder then push to see if there is any give in order to check if the cam is off.

All of this feels like mechanical falliar, not spark/air/fuel. My understanding is that electrics generally break down in high RPMs more so than the low side.

Thoughts/suggestions/things I missed?

Anyone want to buy an r90? :)
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:10 PM   #584
Kai Ju
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Diaphragms ?

I'm assuming ( ugly word ) that you have Bings on the bike.
I'm also assuming that you have closely inspected the diaphragms ( not mentioned in your trouble shooting ).
Try this, with the engine warmed up. Pull the left throttle cable up off it's seat at the carb. The engine should rev up due to the left cylinder being fed throttle.
Repeat with the other side. If the engine doesn't rev up your slide isn't opening ( stuck or diaphragm torn ) or you're not getting any fuel, despite your assurances that everything is clean.
Come to think of it, how tight are the intake spigots in the head ?
Easy test is tightening the hoseclamps on the engine side and loosen the one on the elbow at the carb. Grab the carb and see if you can rotate it either direction. Which you shouldn't be able to. If you can, tighten them and try again.
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Old 11-06-2012, 06:36 AM   #585
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The diaphragms are new and didn't appear to have any tears or cracks. I did blow air into the tunnel that raises and lowers them and they both slid up and down very well.
I'll check that point again while they're mounted on the bike. Haven't done the cable pull test just yet.
It does sound like a fuel issue, I just thought I had exhausted what I could check with the carbs.
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