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Old 04-02-2010, 03:21 PM   #106
blaine.hale OP
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Ok so for the most part I got the cast cleaned up and the piston rings on the forks replaced as long as that bottom retaining plastic/rubber soft bit and the copper crush washer on the bottom cap. There's still a few pieces in the rebuild kit left that I will take a picture of later to see where they go but this is what I have so far:





I'll polish some other bits tomorrow and maybe work on wire harness placement on the frame. Let me know if you guys need pictures of other things I'm doing along the way to help out with your projects. My main goal of this is to learn and to help others learn
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:09 PM   #107
Bigger Al
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There should be two large rubber bumpers that go in the very bottom of the sliders under those Big-Assed Nuts (sorry about the technical jargon ) Be sure to change them, as they turn to mush after many years of exposure to fork oils. New copper crush washers are a must, and I always back those up with some teflon tape on the threads of the BA nuts.

I'll look up the torque specs when I get home, but someone will likely beat me to it.

You're doing a great job on the bike, and the thread is fast becoming a very valuable resource for those who are doing this kind of work for the first time. Seeing all of the younger people on here who are doing Airhead work is inspiring.
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Old 04-02-2010, 04:42 PM   #108
blaine.hale OP
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I got those big bumpers in there (the old ones were basically mush and crumbled.)
Those big end caps were rusted pretty good, I cleaned them up and took scotch brite and emery paper to the inside to get a good seal against the replacement bumper. You can see the new copper crush washer in the pics and I will teflon tape everything for the final tight down (this was a dry fit.) Then I replaced the piston rings on the slides in the forks so now they have a great seal, they were all loose and everywhere before.
There are 2 rather thick rings made out of the same material as those end bumpers that I can not figure out where to place.
Also there is the matter of the top retainers, the ones I put in a picture next to my tank earlier. I know those screw right on top of the fork sliders to retain the springs but for some reason I keep seeing pics of other models that have a bolt in the middle of those end caps and I have no clue where or how that would bolt in. Is it just the aluminum screw on retainers then the shiny chrome caps and that's it?
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:25 PM   #109
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale
I got those big bumpers in there (the old ones were basically mush and crumbled.)
Those big end caps were rusted pretty good, I cleaned them up and took scotch brite and emery paper to the inside to get a good seal against the replacement bumper. You can see the new copper crush washer in the pics and I will teflon tape everything for the final tight down (this was a dry fit.) Then I replaced the piston rings on the slides in the forks so now they have a great seal, they were all loose and everywhere before.
There are 2 rather thick rings made out of the same material as those end bumpers that I can not figure out where to place.
Also there is the matter of the top retainers, the ones I put in a picture next to my tank earlier. I know those screw right on top of the fork sliders to retain the springs but for some reason I keep seeing pics of other models that have a bolt in the middle of those end caps and I have no clue where or how that would bolt in. Is it just the aluminum screw on retainers then the shiny chrome caps and that's it?

I don't recall having any other rings in the kit that I got. It could be that your kit covers other years and/or models and the rings are for that.

Some models (dunno which ones off the top of my head) had bolts on the top of the nuts instead of the chrome caps. This was to allow adding fluid to the forks without fighting the chrome caps off or having to loosen the handlebars for clearance.

The lower leg end cap (BA nut) is listed at 59-74 ft./lbs. of torque.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:34 PM   #110
blaine.hale OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al

The lower leg end cap (BA nut) is listed at 59-74 ft./lbs. of torque.
That's why it took a vice clamp and a lever to pry/twist the fork to get it undone...jeez!
Ok so the chrome cap will actually retain the fluid and such, no other part I need?

Thanks for the info. I'll get a picture of those extra parts in the kit just incase.
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Old 04-02-2010, 11:50 PM   #111
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale
That's why it took a vice clamp and a lever to pry/twist the fork to get it undone...jeez!
Ok so the chrome cap will actually retain the fluid and such, no other part I need?

Thanks for the info. I'll get a picture of those extra parts in the kit just incase.
There is a fiber washer that goes between the chrome cap and the spring retainer. Again, I use some teflon tape on the threads to assure no leakage.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:44 AM   #112
tenderfoot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale
Ok so for the most part I got the cast cleaned up and the piston rings on the forks replaced as long as that bottom retaining plastic/rubber soft bit and the copper crush washer on the bottom cap. There's still a few pieces in the rebuild kit left that I will take a picture of later to see where they go but this is what I have so far:


Be carefull with those nipples in the bottom.
I hamfistedly broke one clean off while tightening and had to get an expensive replacement in addition to feeling a right royal ass.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:50 AM   #113
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Got the diagram below from this site, maybe it could help.


http://www.realoem.com



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Old 04-06-2010, 07:43 AM   #114
blaine.hale OP
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Order just put in for:
SS brake line
14mm master cylinder rebuild kit
32mm Bing carb rebuild kit
Rear brake shoes
Rubber bits (tank support and and front tank support)

Next and probably last large $$ order:
Fork and seat lock kit
steering dampener
/6 2 person seat
Ohlins rear shocks

So I give it a MAX of two more months before it's all back together but you can never put a static time schedule on restorations

Oh and I can't get one of those beautiful top fork clamps, the creator hasn't responded in a week to my inquiry about being in the waiting line for one. *sigh
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Old 04-06-2010, 11:27 AM   #115
Bigger Al
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blaine.hale

Oh and I can't get one of those beautiful top fork clamps, the creator hasn't responded in a week to my inquiry about being in the waiting line for one. *sigh
Give San Jose BMW a call and see if they still have any. Inmate Wirewrkr is an employee of theirs, I believe, so you might wanna PM him, too.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:09 PM   #116
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Working on the carbs tonight. Here are the before pictures (they're soaking in Pine Sol right now.)
I'm doing one at a time making sure the other remains built for reference.









blaine.hale screwed with this post 04-07-2010 at 05:34 PM
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:18 PM   #117
bgoodsoil
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good luck, man. The throttle shaft o-ring isn't as bad as it's been made out to be. I didn't file mine off and I've had no problems. I guess it depends on how bad the threads on those screws have been beat up. I wouldn't recommend doing what I did--it doesn't take long to file them off.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:03 PM   #118
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Looks awesome man!

Looks like your R90 is coming along nicely. I'm just trying to get mine on the road at the moment but might change direction depending on a possible additional motorcycle acquisition. That powder coated frame looks incredible.

I'll have to pick your brain on the fork rebuild, my left seal is seeping (at a minimum) so may as well do them both while it's apart. Where did you get the fork rebuild kit from?

Thad
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:20 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigger Al
Give San Jose BMW a call and see if they still have any. Inmate Wirewrkr is an employee of theirs, I believe, so you might wanna PM him, too.
We do still make those and stock those.
What cracks me up is seeing everyone paying $200.
for a different brand, when ours (the original) is still only $119.95!
Go figure!
Mention that you saw it in the ADV rider forum and We'll throw in free shipping to boot.
I'm there Tuesdays and Thursdays.
408-295-0205 ext 25
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:25 PM   #120
blaine.hale OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macamoose
Looks like your R90 is coming along nicely. I'm just trying to get mine on the road at the moment but might change direction depending on a possible additional motorcycle acquisition. That powder coated frame looks incredible.

I'll have to pick your brain on the fork rebuild, my left seal is seeping (at a minimum) so may as well do them both while it's apart. Where did you get the fork rebuild kit from?

Thad
I got my fork rebuild when I ordered my SS bolt kit from Rocky Point Cycle:
http://www.rockypointcycle.com/Merch...egory_Code=B11

The rebuild was super easy. Undo the bottom huge bolt, carve out the old plug (probably rotten) and clean the surface. Pop in the new plug (it's a very dense rubber/plastic white piece.) Place the new copper crush washer on the huge bolt and button that back up. Next slide out the main assembly of the fork and pull the rod out of that. You will see 3 piston rings on a small piston, replace those and slide it back in. Next I did the main seals at the top. Popped them with a straight blade screw driver to bend in the metal ring within them and break the seal, after that the pop right out. Next place the new seals in and either tap them down with a pipe that is the same diameter of the seal or cheat and use a really blunt punch to tap the seal all the way flush with the top of the cast aluminum.

It takes only about 30 or so minutes really.
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