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Old 09-20-2014, 12:35 PM   #1
Paul2 OP
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Husqvarna 610TE Debries in engine, strange issue,

Hi guys,

I just bought my self a Husqvarna 610TE 1997 for dead cheap, i anticipated a few problems that need fixing before i can play around in the mud but this is really strange i have a idea of what happed but am not sure!

Bought as a not running, cut 2 mm of the sparkplug lead and give the sparkplug a good clean and it started after 2 kicks!

I went inside to give it some fresh oil and all the other routine maintance until i found my oil screen magnet full of metal!! looking at the oil screen it self it looks like it it scraping somthing but i think it was installed badly and cought on the threads for the plug.

What you see on the photo's below is what came out of the engine and what i could get out with my magnet, i removed the LH cover and could not find any damadge on first sight. p.s most debries are found around the back of the engine near the screen.

Photos:

The debries: (one piece looks like it might came from a gear?)


The damaged screen:


The screen close up:


What is the correct action here? just flush it ride it for a short ride then flush it again etc?

I already prepared it to remove the rockercover to inspect the inside.

Thank you in advance for any help!

Greets

Paul
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Old 09-20-2014, 12:54 PM   #2
DrKayak
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I had a 07 610 and it was known for wearing out the cam chain quickly. If the auto cam chain tensioner is over so many notches extended then the chain is too worn and the tensioner will push the chain into a reed valve resulting in debris in the oil.

May want to read up on how to check the cam chain.
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Old 09-20-2014, 03:27 PM   #3
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Good tip! i already noticed that the chain is really slack, and the tensioner is at maximum. i will be changing both!

Any idea's what happend to this oil screen? i dont think any moving engine parts could thouch it.

Do you have any inof on the reed valve's i dont know what the look like and the manual is not really helping
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Old 09-20-2014, 05:34 PM   #4
blueknob
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this is the reed valve on a 2007, not sure if yours is like this, as you can see, the cam chain was starting to rub
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Old 09-20-2014, 08:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
Good tip! i already noticed that the chain is really slack, and the tensioner is at maximum. i will be changing both!

Any idea's what happend to this oil screen? i dont think any moving engine parts could thouch it.

Do you have any inof on the reed valve's i dont know what the look like and the manual is not really helping
My 2007 did what DrKayak describes and the oil screen got broken from flinging debris similar to yours. I pulled the main valve cover and both side covers and flushed with a couple gallons of gas.
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Old 09-21-2014, 03:45 AM   #6
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I just found the problem, the screen that is mounted on the clutch side of the engine is indeed destroyed by the TC.

The adjuster was at max out with no clicks left, i am goning to remove the head now ill keep you posted.



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Old 09-21-2014, 11:01 AM   #7
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With the head removed, i found that the chain also made contact with the inside of the cover. I made this as smooth as i could and will reuse this as is.

The copper bushings in side the rocker arms are worn and the shafts as well, manual indicates that when the difference of the shaft OD and the rockerarm bushing ID is larger then 0.04mm they both need replacing. Im at 0.08, also the shaft became oval.

Does anyone have any experience re-bushing the rockers?




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Old 09-21-2014, 05:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
With the head removed, i found that the chain also made contact with the inside of the cover. I made this as smooth as i could and will reuse this as is.

The copper bushings in side the rocker arms are worn and the shafts as well, manual indicates that when the difference of the shaft OD and the rockerarm bushing ID is larger then 0.04mm they both need replacing. Im at 0.08, also the shaft became oval.

Does anyone have any experience re-bushing the rockers?




You can flip the rocker shafts and get the tolerance in spec without replacing the bushings in my experience. Take a look at it, it only wears on one side.

Do the follower rollers while you have the valve cover off(that's not the head).
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:02 AM   #9
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I know but not used to the rockers mounted in the valve cover, not to cause confusion with the smaller covers.

I did found the flip method but i am some what worried because one of the bushings has some corrosion.



I would like your opinion on this, any idea what kind of material this is? We use similar teflon coated bushings at my job, maby i can use those.

Thanks for the help guys :)


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Old 09-22-2014, 11:51 AM   #10
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i am now creating a list of parts i need and i noticed a spacer between the tensioner and the guide! i did not found this i my engine??

Am i stupid, or am i missing something?


UPDATE: never mind, indeed a spacer wich is not on my bike! that will add some extra MM's i think? does any one know how thick this spacer is? maby i do not need to replace my timing chain because of this?

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Paul2 screwed with this post 09-22-2014 at 12:49 PM
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:41 PM   #11
Paul2 OP
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The reed valve was intact but replacing it anyway, its also located in a different position then the newer 610 model's so i don't think the chain would be hitting it here very soon unless it breaks.

Picture of the reed valve,


Cams, wich seem te be in good shape! the impeller for the cooling system need some cleaning


How it sits at the moment:


Any comments on what to replace as a precausion while im working on it?
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Old 09-23-2014, 08:07 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Paul2 View Post
I did found the flip method but i am some what worried because one of the bushings has some corrosion.

Replace them, you're there already. Replace the rocker shafts, follower bearings and the cam bearings too.
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:01 PM   #13
Paul2 OP
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Hey guys,

Update!, I replaced the bushings in the exhaust rocker which where the worst. Only the exhaust because this was on stock the remaining parts are on back order...

I stuck a boroscope in the engine today, and could not find any major damadge, just one little spot on the cilinder wall, im curius what you think about this?



The threaded hole where the oil screen goes looks odd, not sure what is going on there, it does explain why my screen is damaged it looks like the threads are too deep on the top side?



The gears look ok.





I will be rebuilding the engine tomorrow and see how it runs, i really hope it all turns out alright.

I spent 500 euro's so far for:

Gaskets
Oil screen
Rocker shaft
Rocker bushings
New cam chain
New fork seals
steering head bearings and seals
Cam chain tensioner bushing

As for the oil, 10W40 is the standard right? the guy in the shop whit +30 years exp told me to put in some single grade oil like SAE 30/40/50 do you guys have any exeprince whit this. i still got like 15L of SAE50 oil lying around

Will keep you posted
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:34 PM   #14
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Pretty serious scuffing on the cylinder wall without any cross hatching visible, bore looks worn out to me.
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