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Old 06-12-2013, 03:55 PM   #301
SR
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Location: Western, Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B1 View Post
mentioned it quite a while back, but i found the rekluse clutch was a handy solution. geared the bike to cruise comfortably on the highway (45 rear, not sure on the front) but the rekluse still made things easy peasy in the gnarly stuff.
That's an interesting positive side benefit of the Rekluse clutch. I'm still warming up to the thought of dropping that kind of cash on a Rekluse.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:50 PM   #302
JTucker
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My 05 gets around 50mpg riding mixed off road. I tend lug the bike a lot though. It probably uses more at higher speeds.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:59 AM   #303
andrewgore
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How you guys getting 50mpg on your WR450F? Last trail ride in the UP we got the following:

2005 WR450F (14/50) - 30mpg
2012 WR450F (stock gearing) - 30mpg

That trail ride (approx 300 miles total) was a mix of single-track, 2-track, gravel roads, and a couple miles of road. We were more confused that in exact same conditions, that the FI 2012 got the same MPG as my Carb'd 2005. That being said, I'd give up 5-10MPG for the throttle response of that FI. Spot On.

During a harescramble on my 2005, I managed 19.5mpg, which seems about on par for a race pace.


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Old 06-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #304
T-cosmic
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Almost the same consumption...




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Old 06-13-2013, 12:23 PM   #305
B1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SR View Post
That's an interesting positive side benefit of the Rekluse clutch. I'm still warming up to the thought of dropping that kind of cash on a Rekluse.
i did a bit of a write up here if you are thinking of getting one. i rarely revved the WR much with the higher gearing,

i did have issues with the clutch slipping if accelerating at lower revs in fourth of fifth. eventually had to get the heavier wedges... they wanted $100 for these and i kicked up a stink because the wording on their website claimed the clutch was full adjustable as is.... not that you needed to spend an extra $100 to achieve that! eventually they sent them out free and worked perfectly.

this was the basic kit, the more expensive ones come with the heavier wedges included.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:25 PM   #306
SR
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Originally Posted by B1 View Post
i did a bit of a write up here if you are thinking of getting one. i rarely revved the WR much with the higher gearing,

i did have issues with the clutch slipping if accelerating at lower revs in fourth of fifth. eventually had to get the heavier wedges... they wanted $100 for these and i kicked up a stink because the wording on their website claimed the clutch was full adjustable as is.... not that you needed to spend an extra $100 to achieve that! eventually they sent them out free and worked perfectly.

this was the basic kit, the more expensive ones come with the heavier wedges included.

Thanks B1, that's good information. I have a buddy who has one. Ill have to try his. I would definitely have to try it before I'd throw down. I'm fairly happy with my Magura Hydraulic line for the moment. I helps a lot with clutch control.
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Old 06-16-2013, 02:17 AM   #307
0405canvet
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DR to WR

Hey guys, will I be disappointed with the WR on the highway after riding the DR for a few years?? With taller gearing of course and expect to be doing about 70/30 dirt to bitumen.
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Old 06-16-2013, 04:30 AM   #308
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On the highway?? Dunno. I hate every inch of black top.


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Old 06-16-2013, 08:06 AM   #309
hiawassee
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Originally Posted by 0405canvet View Post
Hey guys, will I be disappointed with the WR on the highway after riding the DR for a few years?? With taller gearing of course and expect to be doing about 70/30 dirt to bitumen.
Well, compared to the DR, I'd say you'll be relatively pleased as long as you've geared it correctly. The WR tends to have a bit more raw natural power, in my opinion. But any 450 on the highway will be easily subject to the whimsy of the wind. Depending on the model...older steel frame, pre-2005/6 (?), or the newer aluminum frame...you'll likely get jostled around a bit. I have an '01 WR426 steel frame, and an '07 WR450 aluminum frame. They're both geared pretty tall for road speeds since the rally races I do occasionally call for that kind of gearing. Although I don't go so tall as to rob the low-end torque in the rougher stuff. The WR engines are beautifully powered in this regard. The steel frame is definitely better in a stiff breeze though. Keeps the bike steady at higher speeds due to the uptick in overall weight. But then I also run an oversized 3.7 gal dual-petcock tank which helps keep the c.o.g. low which also helps to stabilize the bike. And that's true on both of them.

Now of course neither of these, nor the DR 400/450 are a match for a good solid XR 650 for highway speeds. Some will likely argue my preference for the XR, but that's just my personal experience, I'm sure others in the 650 class have their own merits. But since this is a 450 forum, my preference would be for the WR. The DR just seems to be underpowered by comparison, especially if you'll be riding 70% dirt.

...just my 2cents and change
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Old 06-16-2013, 06:47 PM   #310
0405canvet
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Originally Posted by hiawassee View Post
Well, compared to the DR, I'd say you'll be relatively pleased as long as you've geared it correctly. The WR tends to have a bit more raw natural power, in my opinion. But any 450 on the highway will be easily subject to the whimsy of the wind. Depending on the model...older steel frame, pre-2005/6 (?), or the newer aluminum frame...you'll likely get jostled around a bit. I have an '01 WR426 steel frame, and an '07 WR450 aluminum frame. They're both geared pretty tall for road speeds since the rally races I do occasionally call for that kind of gearing. Although I don't go so tall as to rob the low-end torque in the rougher stuff. The WR engines are beautifully powered in this regard. The steel frame is definitely better in a stiff breeze though. Keeps the bike steady at higher speeds due to the uptick in overall weight. But then I also run an oversized 3.7 gal dual-petcock tank which helps keep the c.o.g. low which also helps to stabilize the bike. And that's true on both of them.

Now of course neither of these, nor the DR 400/450 are a match for a good solid XR 650 for highway speeds. Some will likely argue my preference for the XR, but that's just my personal experience, I'm sure others in the 650 class have their own merits. But since this is a 450 forum, my preference would be for the WR. The DR just seems to be underpowered by comparison, especially if you'll be riding 70% dirt.

...just my 2cents and change
The WR would let me ride everything instead of just 90% of terrain with the DR 650 and some of that dangerously because of the weight. At just 150lbs and 5' 7" the DR is a handfull. Hell, I'm even slower than B1 too!!
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:18 PM   #311
Stlhooked
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2008 450

What's the best choice for an aftermarket seat?? Going on a trip to Colorado soon and I need a seat that won't try to split me like a piece of firewood!
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:44 PM   #312
B1
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Hell, I'm even slower than B1 too!!
geez, that's being unreasonably hard on yourself.
and watch your language too. you told me on the weekend that you never swear.

re: the aftermarket seat post, have you considered the dodgy brothers seat, Stlhooked? $30 worth of upholstery foam, black vinyl, and a staple gun.

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Old 06-17-2013, 06:35 AM   #313
Kevin K
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You won't be confused thinking you jumped on your KLR650 by accident when you ride the WR down the road. It's a dirtbike and you know it.
The minimum you should do to a WR is install a YZ or aftermarket silencer. These bikes have full race engines and in my opinion anything you do to calm it down makes them run like crap.
Balancing the wheels help things roll along a little smoother
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:49 AM   #314
Kevin K
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Originally Posted by B1 View Post

How long have you run the extra oil tank?
I feel the oil being run through the down tube acts like a oil cooler some. But more is better and our bikes really could use more oil capacity
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:17 AM   #315
hiawassee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
You won't be confused thinking you jumped on your KLR650 by accident when you ride the WR down the road. It's a dirtbike and you know it.
The minimum you should do to a WR is install a YZ or aftermarket silencer. These bikes have full race engines and in my opinion anything you do to calm it down makes them run like crap.
Balancing the wheels help things roll along a little smoother

yeah, the WR is definitely race-inspired by it's YZ breeding. not much difference between the two. the main one being the label "WR" itself. stands for 'wide ratio' and refers to the gearing. a little less wound up than the YZ, for the obvious difference in what you want from each. track (YZ), or the rest of the world (WR... or maybe ROTW? nah...guess that's too many letters). both of my WRs are street legal and run like bats outta hell. I've raced them both and they have yet to disappoint, for as much as I'm able to push them.

anyway, I totally agree with an aftermarket exhaust. or better yet, just uncork it. they breathe better that way. my 426 was uncorked when I got it. it's noisier than usual and ticks off the wife and neighbors, but it's legal.

I bought the 450 used and it already had an FMF (Q4?) pipe on it. it sounds great and runs pretty well, but I wanted more breathability so I also removed the silencer from this one. gives it a deeper, more vibrant rumble. still not as loud as the 426 stocker, but quiet enough to keep the wife and neighbors off my back.

The stock bikes have something called an AIS....Air Induction System...which is only on them because of the EPA. environmental legislation goes pretty deep so the U.S. has pretty stringent emissions requirements. because of this, we only import/sell bikes equipped with the emission control systems in place. most of the serious enthusiasts, however, like their bikes to perform better than stock, so we remove the AIS, silencer, snorkel, do 'grey wire' mods, etc. all in the name of 'uncorking'. here's a great link of all the stuff you can do to mod a WR 250/426/450 https://sites.google.com/site/yamahawr450fwr250f/.

good luck and happy uncorking. you can thank me later.

word of caution: if you're running carbs instead of FI, seek out an expert for fine tuning if you decide to uncork your machine. while it ultimately produces a 'good' outcome in terms of performance, it takes a little finesse to get jetting adjustments correct. with carbs you have to deal with altitude and climate. so when you essentially undo factory settings on the carb by uncorking (i.e. introducing more air to the system) you have to compensate for it with a few tweaks to get the air/fuel mix right. just a matter of knowing which ones work. but there are plenty of resources available to help with this. then again, if you're a knucklehead like me, you can always learn it the old fashioned way...trial by fire. stumble, grunt, intrigue, destruction, tantrum, education, experiment, enlightenment, vroooooooom!
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