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Old 01-06-2010, 07:59 PM   #16
zenben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P B G
Be forewarned, in all likelihood, the special wrench is not going to get them off, if they haven't been loosened in however many years (20? 30?) There's a good chance they are stuck and will need to be destroyed in removal.

But there's always a chance you get them free, and from here on out you can crack them loose yearly and apply antisieze.
I wouldn't risk it. If you've never had them off, then cut them loose and buy two new ones at $30 each.
In a pinch, you can use the old ones you cut loose to install the new ones with either chain grip or channel grip pliers.

If you don't take this advise when removing the left one, then DO consider it on the right. They always seem to seize on the right side for some reason.
If you are exerting what seems like a lot of force to remove the collar, it is probably b/c you are ripping the threads off the cylinder head.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:09 PM   #17
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Won't fit older style exhaust nuts.





I bought this one, and it fits my '88 and '95 exhaust nuts fine. It WILL NOT fit the older exhaust nuts with bigger fins. I don't know what the changeover year was, but I know the /5 fins are too big.

Jim
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenben
I wouldn't risk it. If you've never had them off, then cut them loose and buy two new ones at $30 each.
In a pinch, you can use the old ones you cut loose to install the new ones with either chain grip or channel grip pliers.

If you don't take this advise when removing the left one, then DO consider it on the right. They always seem to seize on the right side for some reason.
If you are exerting what seems like a lot of force to remove the collar, it is probably b/c you are ripping the threads off the cylinder head.

I'll give it a try, keeping in mind DON'T FORCE IT. Either way, I'll need this tool for next year, so I might as well start there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grider Pirate

I bought this one, and it fits my '88 and '95 exhaust nuts fine. It WILL NOT fit the older exhaust nuts with bigger fins. I don't know what the changeover year was, but I know the /5 fins are too big.

Jim
I should have noted, it's for my '93 GS.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:26 PM   #19
elmontanero
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Quote:
Went through the same set of worries on my G/s with pushrod seals, went with the above wrench. I read all about the heat gun.

Someone, Bless their soul, piped in to put the wrench in place with the lug in place and just start up the engine. I did, and the wrench nearly fell of it's own weight to loosen the nut. Before I could not budge the thing... Your results may vary of course, but you've got the bike right there and it knows how to get hot on it's own.
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Old 01-06-2010, 08:47 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmontanero
Went through the same set of worries on my G/s with pushrod seals, went with the above wrench. I read all about the heat gun.

Someone, Bless their soul, piped in to put the wrench in place with the lug in place and just start up the engine. I did, and the wrench nearly fell of it's own weight to loosen the nut. Before I could not budge the thing... Your results may vary of course, but you've got the bike right there and it knows how to get hot on it's own.
That's funny. It's so obvious there's no way I would have thought of that.
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Old 01-07-2010, 05:27 AM   #21
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.... 'cept "in theory" you want the nuts to get hot faster, and expand more, than the threads.....



.... but then, nobody ever accused reality of knowing about theory.....


...
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Old 01-26-2010, 04:05 PM   #22
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It's been a little hard to set time aside to work on this, but I'm finally getting into the meat of the matter.

I managed to borrow an exhaust wrench (thanks Mykill!!) but was unable to loosen the nuts. So I bit the bullet and cut them. I was lucky to find a replacement set in Long Beach for a mere $10 each, which seemed a DEAL.

I used a dremel, some files and a screw driver to get them off. And I didn't destroy the threads, despite my heavy handedness!







The offending matter that started all this:



Definitely time to clean things. This is the inside of the heads:





The dangly semi-snot is I think the old seal. Don't think it was doing much.



The push rod seals looked ok, but were rock hard.

So now I've got to clean things up. I've read a wire brush, and even a wire tip for the dremel will work. I'm just concerned about scratching things. Is brass better than steel? Any suggestions? Also, I generally use kerosene to clean things. Is this a reasonable solvant to clean the heads and cylinders, or should I use something else?

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Old 01-26-2010, 05:32 PM   #23
mark1305
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When the carbon has been loose and flaky, I've used the rounded end of one of those double-wide hacksaw blades to gently scrape off most of it. Then finish with a wire cup brush or a 3M abrasive wheel (the black sponge looking thingy). Trick is not to scratch anything.

Hardened deposts I've just gone straight to the cup brush or wire wheel and patiently polished it out. Be very careful to stay away from gasket or o-ring surfaces.

I've never decarboned a piston in the cylinder so as to avoid pushing carbon down between piston and cylinder wall. That's just me, though.
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:24 PM   #24
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Thanks Mark. I'll look into those.

Cylinders are off, so no cleaning pistons in the bores. I did notice while cleaning out the holes in the case where the push rod seals go some clear, stretchy O's... I would guess it was sealant, except they were such perfect bands (think thin, clear, circular rubber bands). I'll take some picks and post. Is there anything that goes on the push rod seals that would do this??
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:26 PM   #25
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Looking at the seals themselves, there are ridges on the part that goes into the case - that's what probably created the "rubber bands." What kind of sealant is used here?
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:39 PM   #26
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I've read of some folks using a small bit of RTV on new pushrod seals, and read from others not to. I haven't had to do that job yet on my ST - still only weeping enough to wipe off the oil film after every few rides.
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:45 PM   #27
danedg
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They really don't look that awful....you REALLY don't want to scratch or gouge 'em in any way...new gaskets and seals and button her back up...
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Old 01-26-2010, 06:55 PM   #28
KhaoSanMan
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A Question

After talking to my local mechanic, I am left with the question...

why take off the nuts every year to add anti-seize?

wouldn't this just add to the number of times that the threads could get boogered?

why not just wait until you NEED to take them off and deal with cutting them then?

I guess at 30$ each they are not cheap, and preventative maintenance is a good thing in that sense. I however, have yet to take them off once and therefore am wondering what's the point if I have to take a risk just to prevent exactly what I am risking?
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:05 PM   #29
Airhead Wrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoSanMan
why take off the nuts every year to add anti-seize?

wouldn't this just add to the number of times that the threads could get boogered?

why not just wait until you NEED to take them off and deal with cutting them then?
I guess if they don't come off easily, wait to take them off until you need to. Then once you replace the nuts that you had to cut off, remove and anti-seize them yearly so you never need to cut the new ones off.
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:17 PM   #30
I GS 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KhaoSanMan
After talking to my local mechanic, I am left with the question...

why take off the nuts every year to add anti-seize?

wouldn't this just add to the number of times that the threads could get boogered?

why not just wait until you NEED to take them off and deal with cutting them then?

I guess at 30$ each they are not cheap, and preventative maintenance is a good thing in that sense. I however, have yet to take them off once and therefore am wondering what's the point if I have to take a risk just to prevent exactly what I am risking?
I agree. They do need anti-sieze but I wouldnt take them off unless I had to - you can get a bit of thread breaking away at any stage causing the problem. They are also not always a problem to get off. I recently found that with a heat gun I was able to get a pair off that had been in place for about 30 years (1975 R90S)
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