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Old 08-13-2012, 02:27 AM   #601
Just John
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Normal to get some leakage at the p/v.

What pilot,needle and clip position,main ? What brand air filter ? Are you sure you put the 7 slide in ?
If you tip the bike 45 degrees,does fuel come out the over flow ? That fatty,shorty might want blue 4th.
What does the plug look like ?
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:48 AM   #602
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John, all the carb stuff is as we discussed. The pressure testing with compressed air set up, shows where there are leaks downstream of the carb. If there are leaks and the cases will fail to hold 6 PSI for at least a minute, these leaks will cause the motor to run lean, no matter what you do with carb settings.

If I get these engine case air leaks solved, the jetting is probably just about perfect. Hopefully.
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DougZ73 screwed with this post 08-13-2012 at 05:20 AM
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:41 AM   #603
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Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
John, all the carb stuff is as we discussed. The pressure testing with compressed air set up, shows where there are leaks downstream of the carb. If there are leaks and the cases will fail to hold 6 PSI for at least a minute, these leaks will cause the motor to run lean, no matter what you do with carb settings.

If I get these engine case air leaks solved, the jetting is probably just about perfect. Hopefully.
I'd start by disassembling the power valve and inspecting for excessive wear on the shaft. replace as necessary. At the very least, replace all the sealing o-rings for the power valve-secondary's as well. Also keep in mind that the case vent is on the right power valve side, so a leaking right crank seal will show up in that area as well. If you find its the crank seal leaking, replace the wear ring, o-ring and the seal.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:01 AM   #604
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I'd start by disassembling the power valve and inspecting for excessive wear on the shaft. replace as necessary. At the very least, replace all the sealing o-rings for the power valve-secondary's as well. Also keep in mind that the case vent is on the right power valve side, so a leaking right crank seal will show up in that area as well. If you find its the crank seal leaking, replace the wear ring, o-ring and the seal.
Yeah, in thinking about this whole thing this morning, I kinda realize that if I had a leak in the clutch/gear box area, when I did the air pressure test, I would almost have to have heard it coming out of the gearbox breather hose, which I did not. Luckily.

I did hear most of the air coming out of the right side power valve area, which may have well been the cylinder nut on that corner. The front two, on either side, nuts are a PIA to get tight since you are right up against the cylinder wall/powervalve mech...which you do not have in the back area. Open end wrench is all you can get on them..and only for an 1/8th turn at a time.

My plan is to get new cylinder base gaskets, power valve gaskets and related, and put the top end back on and pressure test again, with everything tightened down to spec..as best I can. I am also going to check and make sure that nothing is warped, like cylinder base and where it meets the cases on lower end.

Two strokes are easier mechanically, and yet, sometimes so much harder to get right.

Edit: BTW B.A...great Spicoli quote...top five movies of all time.
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Old 08-13-2012, 08:11 AM   #605
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Start it up,spray starting fluid anywhere you suspect there is a leak,if the engine speeds up you have a problem.
If not,don't worry about it and concentrate on jetting.... that silencer has to go it's part of the problem.
I can loan you a hockey stick or sell you a T/CII cheap...i don't care for those short silencers.

Lots of fuel and long silencers,that's how you build tug boat torque.
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Old 08-13-2012, 10:27 AM   #606
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I never resorted to doing a pressure test on a 2 stroke and I've fixed many an airleak. Pressure tests are good for 4Ts but require a certian amount of skill/expierence to properly diagnose and even then they can be inaccurate as you're seeing with the powervalve leak. I'm no pro but finding a the leak has always been fairly straightforward. I wouldn't worry too much about a leak at the powervalve (for tuning purposes), it on the exhaust side and shouldn't effect the air/fuel tunability.

I start on the exterior of the motor and like Just John mentioned, spray a flammable aresol at the areas where a leak could occur. If there is no indication (rise in RPM) I pull the stator cover and do the same thing with the LH crank seal. The other area that tough to check but usally easy to diagnose is the RH crank seal, you'll see lots of smoke out the exhaust as it pulls in oil from the tranny if the seal is bad. An old tuner taught me to always smear grease into the dry paper gaskets before installing them, esp your base and reed gaskets that are critical to airleaks, they'll remove easily later and they will seal very well without needing any help from silicone or gasket sealer. It's worked perfectly for me for many years.

I agree with Just John, if the basic checks don't discover a leak, I'd start looking toward the carb and jetting. Frequently carb and/or jetting problems are mis-diagnosed as an airleak. Aside from crankseals proper assembly will cure almost all airleaks.

Good luck with getting it dialed in.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:00 PM   #607
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Top end is totally off now, so it will probably be a week or two before I dive back into working on this.
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:26 PM   #608
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Thanks for all the feedback guys. Top end is totally off now, so it will probably be a week or two before I dive back into working on this.

Ah how quick they grow up.

I remeber when you were a street puke.

I told you,,its a 2 Stroke Nation!

Glad to see your getting balls deep into the 2 stroke dirt bike life!
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:44 PM   #609
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Ah how quick they grow up.

I remeber when you were a street puke.

I told you,,its a 2 Stroke Nation!

Glad to see your getting balls deep into the 2 stroke dirt bike life!
Fricken KTM's..LOL
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:17 PM   #610
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You were warned!

Soon you'll start giving yourself rules.
Like my rule number one.No orange bikes older then 05.

I made that rule right after i got rid of this.


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Old 08-14-2012, 04:56 AM   #611
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spewage

What year did they switch from left foot kicker to right?




Bike makes a great trail and towing mule but is boiling over on extended first gear crawling/towing. (engine ice) My plan is to switch to a stronger radiator cap and maybe get some Evans or Zip TY coolant.

I also found an impeller upgrade that I think my trials dealer can get me:

http://issuu.com/costaspecialparts/docs/catalog_eng

Anybody have experience with this type of kit or have any other advice?

Fan kit on a 300??
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:40 AM   #612
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Ride a ktm300-get one of these...it's that simple.



2nd, B-vet, AMA nat'l scramble Freetown ma.

And this is what your hands will look like after:



More riding, less masterbating.
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:56 AM   #613
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yes it is wide open and actually i am very comfortable with the power output that i am getting and i absolutely dont want to tame it down actually reverse
Well, if you have the PV always in the open position, then you will have full top end high RPM power, but if it doesn't close at lower RPMs you have killed your bottom end power. You can complete the job by getting rid of the reed valve assembly. Then you will have undone a few decades of technology/design improvements, and you are right back to where I was in 1975, riding a Honda 125 Elsinore with a powerband so narrow and angel couldn't dance on it.
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Old 08-14-2012, 02:58 PM   #614
Just John
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What year did they switch from left foot kicker to right?




Bike makes a great trail and towing mule but is boiling over on extended first gear crawling/towing. (engine ice) My plan is to switch to a stronger radiator cap and maybe get some Evans or Zip TY coolant.

I also found an impeller upgrade that I think my trials dealer can get me:

http://issuu.com/costaspecialparts/docs/catalog_eng

Anybody have experience with this type of kit or have any other advice?

Fan kit on a 300??
98 i think.
Bump the pilot up 1 size,it will add grunt and run cooler.
The blue stuff and high pressure cap should be a last resort,
as they will let the bike get Very hot without boil over.

Before changing my jetting strategy a few years ago i had to top off the rad
regularly. Now every time i check it,it is just above the fins. Sandy s/t
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Old 08-14-2012, 03:01 PM   #615
Just John
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Originally Posted by chippertheripper View Post
Ride a ktm300-get one of these...it's that simple.



2nd, B-vet, AMA nat'l scramble Freetown ma.

And this is what your hands will look like after:



More riding, less masterbating.
Congrats !!
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