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Old 05-05-2013, 03:16 PM   #871
Pmason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
Here's what the Acerbis 6.3 gal tank looks like on my 2008 300XC.
Any interference problems with the stabilizer? Do you have a scotts underbar mount? I have a GPR and was wondering if the big acerbis tank would hit the mount.
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Old 05-05-2013, 03:34 PM   #872
DirtJack
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Originally Posted by Pmason View Post
Any interference problems with the stabilizer? Do you have a scotts underbar mount? I have a GPR and was wondering if the big acerbis tank would hit the mount.
It's a Scott's damper which I move to what ever of my 3 bikes I'm riding. The mount on the 300 is Scott's UTB. Plenty of room with the Acerbis big tank.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:23 PM   #873
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Well here are a few pictures of the 12 hour endurance race from a couple weeks ago.
Started off nice and sunny.



First lap got a flat rear tire. Fixed it half way through the 13 mile loop. I kept smelling something sweet like coolant. Six hour's in I stopped for food and fuel. When I tried to restart the bike it would not run. Pulled the plug, very wet. Air filter totally plugged with dust. Put a new plug and filter in and fired to life again but what ran out the muffler didn't seem right. Checked the coolant, very low. This is what I found.

O-ring fried.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:52 AM   #874
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Since I have the motor out....again, I want to repaint the frame.....again. Seems the paint I had used looked all nice, but as soon as it saw any oil, it came off faster than the highschool sluts' panties on prom night.




I am not taking the whole thing apart again to do entire frame, but would like to do the bottom half, that gets exposed to any of the leaking oil.

Anyone know of any good oil resistant paint, or have used themselves, that will be resistant to oil??? In my research, I see a lot people mentioning two part epoxy paints, but did not see any specific brand references. Ideas?
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DougZ73 screwed with this post 05-14-2013 at 07:41 AM
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:31 AM   #875
RideFreak
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Originally Posted by DougZ73 View Post
Since I have the motor out....again, I want to repaint the frame.....again. Seems the paint I had used looked all nice, but as soon as it saw any oil, it came off faster than the highschool sluts' panties on prom night.




I am not taking the whole thing apart again to do entire frame, but would like to do the bottom half, that gets exposed to any of the leaking oil.

Anyone know of any good oil resistant paint, or have used themselves, that will be resistant to oil??? In my research, I see a lot people mentioning two part epoxy paints, but did not see any specific brand references. Ideas?
2 part epoxy will work fine, I like POR brand for that stuff, I'd suggest using some of the bare alum mag wheel cleaner on the cases prior to paint, it's got a weak acid in the formula that does a good job of prepping (etching) the metal prior to paint. The epoxy paint is very perminant, getting it off is like removing powdercoating. Only way it's coming off is to chip it off (PITA) or sandblasting the cases.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:47 AM   #876
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Egregious View Post
Checked the coolant, very low. This is what I found.

O-ring fried.
Check that head close with a good straight edge looking for light passing through the leak area, there a good chance it's fried. The alum material in the head is very soft and will wear away as hot gasses pass by the oring. I'd also pull the jug and look for blowby and damaged piston and rings. I know it looks like just a oring issue but there's a good chance the temps have cycled way over normal op temp during this episode. It's also a great excuse to drop in a $150 SX head.

I'd suggest a high pressure cap too, these motors will boil off some coolant in some situations and once that cycle starts it's headed for a meltdown unless you manage to catch it in time, obviously in the middle of a 12hr race is not that time Had you not expierenced the other issues, there's a good chance you might not have realized it till the system was dry and the top end decided not to work anymore.

BTW, a filter skin works well in an extremly dusty situation like you described.
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Old 05-15-2013, 05:44 AM   #877
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Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
2 part epoxy will work fine, I like POR brand for that stuff, I'd suggest using some of the bare alum mag wheel cleaner on the cases prior to paint, it's got a weak acid in the formula that does a good job of prepping (etching) the metal prior to paint. The epoxy paint is very perminant, getting it off is like removing powdercoating. Only way it's coming off is to chip it off (PITA) or sandblasting the cases.
Thanks RF..appreciate the reply. I have used POR15 to repaint engines before. I did not think of it...but will probably work great.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:18 AM   #878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
Check that head close with a good straight edge looking for light passing through the leak area, there a good chance it's fried. The alum material in the head is very soft and will wear away as hot gasses pass by the oring. I'd also pull the jug and look for blowby and damaged piston and rings. I know it looks like just a oring issue but there's a good chance the temps have cycled way over normal op temp during this episode. It's also a great excuse to drop in a $150 SX head.

I'd suggest a high pressure cap too, these motors will boil off some coolant in some situations and once that cycle starts it's headed for a meltdown unless you manage to catch it in time, obviously in the middle of a 12hr race is not that time Had you not expierenced the other issues, there's a good chance you might not have realized it till the system was dry and the top end decided not to work anymore.

BTW, a filter skin works well in an extremly dusty situation like you described.
I didn't notice any runability problem before this. There was some coolant still in the radiators also. I put a straight edge on the head and it looks ok. Scuffed it with a long board and the erosion spots disappeared. I don't know how lucky I am yet, haven't had a chance to get back to the bike.

I'm gonna look into the filter skins and cap. Thanks.
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:02 PM   #879
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Oh what happened to my baby, Doug?!?!?!?
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:23 PM   #880
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Oh what happened to my baby, Doug?!?!?!?
I am thinking the welded cylinder did not hold up. Cylinder is chewed up on one side, and I can't find a good reason why. Engine is out for total rebuild ....again...to see what caused it. I had just had 40 - 50 hrs on it after first rebuild, and was just getting used to bike. I am rebuilding this time to save some coin. It will ride again. :)

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Old 05-16-2013, 03:57 AM   #881
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I am thinking the welded cylinder did not hold up. Cylinder is chewed up on one side, and I can't find a good reason why. Engine is out for total rebuild ....again...to see what caused it. I had just had 40 - 50 hrs on it after first rebuild, and was just getting used to bike. I am rebuilding this time to save some coin. It will ride again. :)

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What is the X spec. on your 98 ? Some of the older ones are below deck.

My 01 is supposed to be 0....but the motor is much happier with the piston down in the bore. It still has more compression/bottom end then my 11 jugged bike that is at 0.

After having some work done this winter. Minor port and p/v cleanup,plate,pump head mods and mushroom bored carb. I had huge issues with to much compression.(it was harder to kick then any 500 i ever owned) Pushed out more head o rings and base gaskets then i would care to mention.Looong story short,ended up with another stock head and 75 base gasket,putting the piston well below deck.

While everything about this is puzzling,it still makes huge torque and needs lots of fuel. No air leaks that i can detect,idles and runs well now.

The newer one,07 with 11 jug got the same mods (no carb bore) along with new rod,balanced crank. Thankfully there were no issues on the 1st ride. Was nervous as a cat after all the problems with the 01.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:43 AM   #882
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Hey John. Spec on the 98 motor is 0.0 - 0.1 mm. I try to fit the gaskets so I am closer to the 0.1mm side of the range. Less to worry about.

The inside of the head is dished through, as can be seen in Capt's pic above with the coolant drops on it, so I do not think the piston should ever hit the head......don't think anyway.
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Old 05-18-2013, 09:34 PM   #883
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I hope none of you fellas ordered parts from KTM Hutt. I just found out that they are gone and so is my money.
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #884
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The inside of the head is dished through, as can be seen in Capt's pic above with the coolant drops on it, so I do not think the piston should ever hit the head......don't think anyway.



Define hit.
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Old 05-20-2013, 03:29 AM   #885
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Define hit.
Touch?
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