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Old 06-12-2013, 07:32 AM   #931
HellSickle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Egregious View Post

On the trials tire's you guy's are talking about what terrains do these tires NOT do well in? Mud? High speed desert? I have never used one before.
Sticky mud is bad for a trials tire. It is rare around here, as most of the soil is sandy/gravely.

I have ridden my radial trials tire in sand dunes & it did surprisingly well. In my experience with sand, the tread of a tire mainly makes a difference in how quickly you can accelerate. Once up to speed, it's just a matter of power. I've ridden with paddle tires, knobbies, and trails tires in dunes.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:20 AM   #932
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I have seen both Geoff Aaron and Pat Smage (at San Ysidro) pull a 5 foot vertical wall from a dead standstill, out of a bottomless dry sand pit on a worn out trials tire.
It's all about technique.

They have banned trials tires in EnduroCross because (it has been said) it gives the riders too much of an advantage and is less exciting to the fans. What's not to like for us casual riders?

I have a separate wheel rear wheel set so that I can swap on a knobby in about 5 minutes. The only time that I want a knob is on high speed dez where you want to "step out" the rear in a corner or back it in a bit or loose sand like we have on the west side.

Trials tires do not slide (unless you have them aired up too much).

Personally, I wouldn't run a trials tire without some system, like tubliss or a drilled out mousse that enables me to run low pressures and get the full benefit. IMO, a low pressure knob (<8 PSI)will give better traction in most instances than a trials tire running at anything over 10 psi. Trials tires are meant to squash down with the soft sidewalls and give you a bigger footprint. Too much air and that doesn't happen. Too little air in a tubed trials tire and it is a guaranteed pinch flat. And so it goes................

I didn't want to derail on low pressure tires, but when trials tires are mentioned, it goes hand in hand.

BTW, if anyone want to try a trials tire on their dirt bike, I usually have a few used ones around that you can have.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:07 AM   #933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
I have seen both Geoff Aaron and Pat Smage (at San Ysidro) pull a 5 foot vertical wall from a dead standstill, out of a bottomless dry sand pit on a worn out trials tire.
It's all about technique.

They have banned trials tires in EnduroCross because (it has been said) it gives the riders too much of an advantage and is less exciting to the fans. What's not to like for us casual riders?

I have a separate wheel rear wheel set so that I can swap on a knobby in about 5 minutes. The only time that I want a knob is on high speed dez where you want to "step out" the rear in a corner or back it in a bit or loose sand like we have on the west side.

Trials tires do not slide (unless you have them aired up too much).

Personally, I wouldn't run a trials tire without some system, like tubliss or a drilled out mousse that enables me to run low pressures and get the full benefit. IMO, a low pressure knob (<8 PSI)will give better traction in most instances than a trials tire running at anything over 10 psi. Trials tires are meant to squash down with the soft sidewalls and give you a bigger footprint. Too much air and that doesn't happen. Too little air in a tubed trials tire and it is a guaranteed pinch flat. And so it goes................

I didn't want to derail on low pressure tires, but when trials tires are mentioned, it goes hand in hand.

BTW, if anyone want to try a trials tire on their dirt bike, I usually have a few used ones around that you can have.
To add one more thing, trials tires work well even when nearly worn out. I was pleasantly surprised.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:04 AM   #934
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Originally Posted by HellSickle View Post
To add one more thing, trials tires work well even when nearly worn out. I was pleasantly surprised.
That is so true! On our trials bikes, we don't even like a new tire unless it is going to be a wet event in the woods. They work so much better on rocks when worn a bit.

Like I said, I saw Smage doing insane stuff with a completely worn rear tire on his Sherco. This tire was shot, the knobs looked like little wedges and it had plugs sticking out of it all over the place.

......but that is Smage. He could kick our asses on a pit-bike.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:48 PM   #935
Capt. Egregious
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Good to hear all the feed back on the trials tires. I have run the TuBlis system on my XRR with great results. I pulled the mousse out of the rear of my 300 cuz it didnt feel right and put a TuBlis in it.

Any one know if KTM used different bar mounting holes on the top triple? Wondering if different years or models had bar mounting holes further forward. The reason I ask is I am installing a SUB mount on my bike but the bar mounting point are 7-8mm further forward then the stock top clamps(08 xcwe billet). The mount I got is for a 05-07 exc cast triple but it's mounting holes are the same as the 08 billet. This is on my Christini.

Capt. Egregious screwed with this post 06-13-2013 at 07:55 AM
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:34 PM   #936
Pokey66C23
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2k3 stator

Hi, I'm new to the 300 and have a question about "floating" the ground on my 2K3 stator. My bike is a 2001 exc with the 2K3, I understand I can get more watts out of it by floating the ground. Any idea how many watts that will produce with the stock flywheel? My KTM owners manual rates the output with the 2K3 as 110 watts. Trail Tech is telling me I'll only get 40 to 50 watts with a 2K3/floated ground, (seems low?).

I live in Washinton and want to plate the bike and possibly add heated grips. No big head light in my plans, just a 65/55 trail tech and LED blinkers.

Any advice on rewinding the stator and filling up each pole? The factory job is a little lame.....

Thanks in advance for your much needed advice.

Mr Pokey
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:27 PM   #937
Gryphon12
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Sorry, I'm new to this thread - I'm much more of a DS rider, but I'm trying to learn from all disciplines. I'm asking for some clarification based on your experiences.

The MT-43 is not a true Trials tire; it is a Hybrid Trials design. Lots of folks on heavier Dual Sports like them because they get good traction on a variety of surfaces, and have much less environmental impact - they grip; they don't give good rooster.

The MT-43 has a very tall profile, and an extraordinarily stiff sidewall. Long distance DS riders like them because they will run for 50+ miles with no air - totally flat. Of course, really stiff sidewalls makes changing them a royal pain.

Why would you go to the trouble and expense of a mousse or a Tubliss system in this tire? I understand these in a true, competiton Trials tire, but in the MT-43? The MT-43 doesn't "squish" like a true Trials tire as described several posts above.

Also, does the MT-43 run as well almost worn out, like a true Trials tire, or is it more like a knobbie in this respect? I believe that the tread pattern is similar but is a different compound than a true Trials tire.

Any more details on differences and similarities between the MT-43 and competition trials tires would be appreciated.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:05 PM   #938
Gordy
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All that I know is that the MT-43 is stiffer and doesn't behave like quite like a Dunlop or Michelin. A Dunlop is stiffer than a Michelin as well and you need to run a few pounds less in it than the Michelin.

On my 300, I run Tubliss and with the MT-43, I can run about 5-6 psi and it feels about the same as one of the others at 8. YRMV

You are 100% correct in that the MT-43 will last longer and that is because the rubber is harder and less flex with the sidewalls as well.
Harder rubber=more life=less traction in slippery stuff. You can't have it all.

I really am of little help with DSing these tires as I only use them for technical single track or on my trials bike. I did put a Dunlop on a 525 once and chunked all of the knobs off in about 4 hours though!

I had no idea that the MT-43 would run 50+ miles flat. That is usually a good days ride for me! Why even bother putting a tube in one other than to seat the bead?
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:38 PM   #939
Capt. Egregious
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokey66C23 View Post
Hi, I'm new to the 300 and have a question about "floating" the ground on my 2K3 stator. My bike is a 2001 exc with the 2K3, I understand I can get more watts out of it by floating the ground. Any idea how many watts that will produce with the stock flywheel? My KTM owners manual rates the output with the 2K3 as 110 watts. Trail Tech is telling me I'll only get 40 to 50 watts with a 2K3/floated ground, (seems low?).

I live in Washinton and want to plate the bike and possibly add heated grips. No big head light in my plans, just a 65/55 trail tech and LED blinkers.

Any advice on rewinding the stator and filling up each pole? The factory job is a little lame.....

Thanks in advance for your much needed advice.

Mr Pokey
I found this to be very useful. http://www.spokanister.net/ktm_stator.htm

I run a BD LED Stealth light bar off the stock stator with no mods to grounds. It pulls 42 watts and works great. I dont think my set up would work for getting tags on the bike(no battery for the lighting circuit) but I think it could work for a minimalistic lighting/blinkers system.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:30 AM   #940
Pokey66C23
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spokanister

Capt E, thanks for the info on the spokanister site. I ordered a TT stator and Regulator/Rectifier to go with a battery setup. I have all the bits and pieces needed for a complete system, just wanted to make sure I had ample power to maybe run heated grips and possibly a gps along with the lighting system. Trail Tech is really proud of their high output system for the 300. 194.00 for just the flywheel, I had to go without that part and settle for 100 watts.

I'm looking forward to getting a plate on this beast. Thanks for the info.
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Old 07-02-2013, 04:27 PM   #941
Just John
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Broke the motor in the 01 last week,lower rod bearing let go. I thought it was
getting LOUD. The old motors are so noisey compared to the newer ones it was
hard to tell. When the bike smoothly (rekluse) went quiet,alarm bells went off.
When the kick lever would not move all doubt was removed.

C/P has the motor,crank is on it's way to Cooksy,jug to powerseal. The motor
will go back together with a late style 2k2 ignition,cdi,high/low map switch.
Crank holes will be stuffed.

Still have the other one,that motor was freshened up top/bottom this past
winter. (cooksy crank = very smooth) Might have to try the mushroom
bored carb (late 36) from the 01 on this bike.
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Old 07-02-2013, 05:17 PM   #942
RideFreak
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I just got mine together, fresh crank, clutch and back shock, took it out in the Dez this weekend, it's runnin nice



I'll be poppin it's cherry up on some Taylor Park singletrack in a couple weeks
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:25 PM   #943
DougZ73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just John View Post
Broke the motor in the 01 last week,lower rod bearing let go. I thought it was
getting LOUD. The old motors are so noisey compared to the newer ones it was
hard to tell. When the bike smoothly (rekluse) went quiet,alarm bells went off.
When the kick lever would not move all doubt was removed.

C/P has the motor,crank is on it's way to Cooksy,jug to powerseal. The motor
will go back together with a late style 2k2 ignition,cdi,high/low map switch.
Crank holes will be stuffed.

Still have the other one,that motor was freshened up top/bottom this past
winter. (cooksy crank = very smooth) Might have to try the mushroom
bored carb (late 36) from the 01 on this bike.
Good stuff John. Its good to know you at least have the back up 300 when the other one breaks.

What does " crank holes with be stuffed" mean?


I have made some progress today..I ordered my gasket kit. Yep, that is how slow my getting time to work on the bike is these days. Although everytime I take that 300 lbs Yami WR250R out on the trails, About 1/2 hr later, I am thinking, " I really need to get the KTM running again" LOL

Next, to contact Andrew Cooksey again and get my piston kit on order.

Then its just a matter of actually rebuilding motor and putting it back in bike. LOL
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:37 PM   #944
Just John
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Good stuff John. Its good to know you at least have the back up 300 when the other one breaks.

What does " crank holes with be stuffed" mean?


I have made some progress today..I ordered my gasket kit. Yep, that is how slow my getting time to work on the bike is these days. Although everytime I take that 300 lbs Yami WR250R out on the trails, About 1/2 hr later, I am thinking, " I really need to get the KTM running again" LOL

Next, to contact Andrew Cooksey again and get my piston kit on order.

Then its just a matter of actually rebuilding motor and putting it back in bike. LOL
Pics/explanation,nothing earth shattering. Hopefully it will add a little ''chug'' to offset the lighter fly wheel. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel. Keep the torque,but let it rev a little quicker like the newer 300's.
http://ktmtalk.com/index.php?showtop...&#entry3884425
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Old 07-03-2013, 06:47 AM   #945
Gordy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RideFreak View Post
I just got mine together, fresh crank, clutch and back shock, took it out in the Dez this weekend, it's runnin nice


You really should set up a detail shop! The bike is looking great!!!
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