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Old 02-27-2013, 02:17 AM   #556
DRjoe
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ok well out of ally I shall make them.
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:17 AM   #557
Mudguts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
Has anyone got any spare grab handles they want to sell?
On my friends bike he's had the bolts pull through on one of the handles.
If we can't find the original plastic ones I'll probably make some aluminium ones.
I dare you to make some anodised aluminum handles.

Then post photos on how cool they look .


And does any one have CF tank protectors if so how much and were
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Old 02-27-2013, 02:56 AM   #558
johnno950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cummo View Post
I think I misunderstood you, is there oil coming out of the master cylinder at the bars? I was addressing this problem in my reply which can be a result of worn rings blowing into the sump pressurizing the cases and pushing back clutch oil out of the clutch lever, very common as the case seal on the clutch side is very small and teflon!

The jerkiness and grabby clutch on a 690RR ( Rally Replica) is something I tried to fix also, I asked the factory mechanics on many rallies about this, the only thing that fixed it on my 690 RR was 2 things, remove all the plates, you will notice an edge on the plates where they have been stamped out, all the rough edges need to point towards the outside of the bike, drop the oil and install the Motorex 20W60 oil designed for high performance singles, it solved my problem. All this came from a 65 year old original rally mechanic for KTM who did much design work on the 690RR - Walther was his name if I recall right, he also showed me the trick of pushing the front brake caliper with your knee across the disc and then pulling it back, this removed the softness of the lever ( after every stage ) and made it firm again, he said the Titanium caliper bowls flip the rubber seal when they get hot and increase chamber sizes, by pumping the caliper it flips the seal back......i must have bled the front 5 times trying to fix this issue!

QUOTE=shebanano;20807439]Someone with mechanical skills could ensure that this pump would work perfectly in a 690RFR?.

http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-rc8-950-...ial-clutch-kit

KTM to replace the OEM sells 950 and 990 Supermoto SuperEnduro. These pumps are of 10.5 mm diameter piston.
The RFR 690 has a pump piston with a diameter from 11 mm. In theory it should be valid for use in RFR 690.
If possible, I was interested to buy this:
http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore...idproduct=1022

... but it's a lot of money to spend if not safely.
Thanks for the replies.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for info,my bike leaks clutch resivoir oil from the master cyc/and lid of assembly when bike is ridden for a few hours,have noticed the action of the gearbox gets a bit harsher also,dont lose much fluid but not good.My engine seems to be still in good running order,no oil usage/clean screens/filter cleats at service time and the crankcase breather (got filter over end of tube) has little or no signs of excessive blow-by.I had the squaking/abrupt initial action on clutch when i got the bike (second hand 12000 kms) then did the modification as recommended by 690rr forum member,this fixed the squarking etc.I would like to be able to fix the harsh gearbox action,i was going to add another gasket to the slave cyc assembly on the engine,i thought maybe the actuator rod that goes to the clutch binds up when engine is hot?,seems a bit strange but thats what im going to try,the bike has nearly 50k on it now.
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:25 AM   #559
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U been on holidays Johnno??? Haven't seen u around here for a while???
Scratch scratch scratch!!!
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Old 02-27-2013, 03:25 AM   #560
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shebanano View Post
Now I need to solve the problem of hardness in the clutch lever. So I ask about the option of Brembo.
Skip the Brembo, it is really big and probably made for brake fluid clutch systems (although it might work fine with hydraulic fluid if it has never been filled before?).

What you want is a Magura master cylinder with a smaller bore, 9 or 9.5mm (used on some KTM EXCs, SX, Husaberg etc). This will give you a lighter pull with a bit more travel, it should still be enough to completely disengage the clutch.

Alternatively you can also try a "Clever Lever" from Midwest Mountain Engineering, they have a different lever ratio that requires about half the pulling force, also with more travel.

http://midwestme.com/pages/productinfo.html
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Old 02-27-2013, 12:11 PM   #561
shebanano
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Skip the Brembo, it is really big and probably made for brake fluid clutch systems (although it might work fine with hydraulic fluid if it has never been filled before?).

What you want is a Magura master cylinder with a smaller bore, 9 or 9.5mm (used on some KTM EXCs, SX, Husaberg etc). This will give you a lighter pull with a bit more travel, it should still be enough to completely disengage the clutch.

Alternatively you can also try a "Clever Lever" from Midwest Mountain Engineering, they have a different lever ratio that requires about half the pulling force, also with more travel.

http://midwestme.com/pages/productinfo.html


Are you sure that a 16mm Brembo would not solve the problem?.

According to the principle of Pascal your theory is correct. You mean I install a smaller diameter pump and in theory I will have more gently pressing the clutch lever.
But I have doubts about the possibility of not getting the clutch all the way. I'll have to try a second hand pump for not risking much money.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:54 AM   #562
johnno950
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Friend has had a fantastic paint job done on his rr,went and had a look today

Hubs done carbon look

Clutch cover/flywheel cover done also



johnno950 screwed with this post 03-02-2013 at 01:26 AM Reason: photos
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:34 AM   #563
dewe74
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That looks fantastic. The best i think i have ever seen.

Are those decals painted or has he had them made?

Have you got a before photo of his bike?

Cheers
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:45 AM   #564
johnno950
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Originally Posted by dewe74 View Post
That looks fantastic. The best i think i have ever seen.

Are those decals painted or has he had them made?

Have you got a before photo of his bike?

Cheers
Decals are made,not painted,the workmanship/detail that the painter has put into this is a credit to him,here a pre paint photo lhs bike
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:29 AM   #565
Motorfiets
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnno950 View Post
Friend has had a fantastic paint job done on his rr,went and had a look today

rool
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:48 AM   #566
daGeri
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Because I had some troubles with my clutch I modivied it like mentioned from 690rr.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 690RR View Post
Hi Folks,

solution for our clutch "shatter" problem

You need to order following parts:

1 x 75032111100 Lining disc cut out
1 x 58632016000 Rondella antivibrazione set

Take apart your clutch (you do not need to drain oil as level is lower than small clutch cover). Basicaly take off small clutch cover, remove 6 screws with springs holding clutch pressure plate and remove all steel discs and lining discs.

Change the most inner lining disc with "75032111100 Lining disc cut out" (it has bigger inner diameter) and insert "58632016000 antivibration set".
Be carefull with antivibration set, as flat support disc goes in first and then pretension disc.

The pretension disc must be installed so that it is flush with the inner edge on the support disc.

Other words: inner diameter of pretension disc faces inside the engine and outher faces outside.


Install clutch in reverse order, but without one Lining disc, as this one is being replaced by our new parts.

Clutch is gonna work like a dream, at least on my bike it does. No more shatter :)
Please feel free to ask if any questions.
When I removed the original parts I mentioned something strange.



What the F...

My bike still has only 1.300km on. I checked the disc's and both look good. So I just left one disc out and installed the new parts mentioned from "690RR"

I couldn't really test it, but I hope the clutch is ok now.

Can please anybody confirm the torque I have to fasten the screws compressing the clutchsprings and the screws of the small clutch cover!?
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:43 PM   #567
Assfault
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daGeri View Post
Because I had some troubles with my clutch I modivied it like mentioned from 690rr.



When I removed the original parts I mentioned something strange.



What the F...

My bike still has only 1.300km on. I checked the disc's and both look good. So I just left one disc out and installed the new parts mentioned from "690RR"

I couldn't really test it, but I hope the clutch is ok now.

Can please anybody confirm the torque I have to fasten the screws compressing the clutchsprings and the screws of the small clutch cover!?
I cant help you with the torque settings, but I need to ask, did your bike come from the factory with the clutch setup in the configuration pictured? Because thats messed up. No wonder your clutch was not working properly.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:01 AM   #568
F650Dakar_Norway OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daGeri View Post

My bike still has only 1.300km on. I checked the disc's and both look good. So I just left one disc out and installed the new parts mentioned from "690RR"

I couldn't really test it, but I hope the clutch is ok now.

Can please anybody confirm the torque I have to fasten the screws compressing the clutchsprings and the screws of the small clutch cover!?
When reassembling the clutch - it's vital for functionality that the outer clutch basket is installed in one correct of six possible positions - i.e. the one making the "narrowest and most compact clutch width".

Otherwise it won't engage. Took me 10 hours to find out
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:27 AM   #569
daGeri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Assfault View Post
I cant help you with the torque settings, but I need to ask, did your bike come from the factory with the clutch setup in the configuration pictured? Because thats messed up. No wonder your clutch was not working properly.
I don't know. My bike had already two onwners before I purchased it. No Idea if they changed something or not.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:43 AM   #570
daGeri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F650Dakar_Norway View Post
When reassembling the clutch - it's vital for functionality that the outer clutch basket is installed in one correct of six possible positions - i.e. the one making the "narrowest and most compact clutch width".

Otherwise it won't engage. Took me 10 hours to find out
Which part do you mean? Position 12?

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....&c=0&d=-CLUTCH

I didn't need to remove that part. I just removed the pressure plate (Position 4) to exchange the discs and installed it, in the same position like it was before. There is a small hole in the pressure plate and on the inner clutch hub (position 9) a mark. I dont know if they belong together, but on my engine they have been on top of each other.

Still need the torque of the screws position 1 in the drawing.
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