ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Riding > Ride reports
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-02-2010, 12:25 PM   #46
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
"Livin' on PE time"... yup. Very mellow scene here. Great mix of people, both Mexicanos and Nortenos. I'm pretty much in total relaxation mode. Enjoying having my own pad to hang out in, and explore the area. I may turn into a jellyfish if I stay here too long. Here's a gratuitous Puerto Escondido surf video for anyone who came here looking for mo, bettah pics of my trip. (I'll get around to posting some soon, if only my schedule weren't so full )




miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2010, 05:11 PM   #47
Velocipede
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Velocipede's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Kingston Ontario Canada
Oddometer: 405
Miguelito,I'm really enjoying your RR.I've just recently got back to Ontario after a couple of months in Baja and covered much of the the route you took,even stayed in some of the same motels you did.Your ability to sniff out good lodgings is way better than mine though as I usually ended up paying far too much for less than satisfactory accommodations.I found Baja could be quite expensive.Next winter its going to be the Copper Canyon and then further down the west coast where I'll probably be roughly on the route you are taking now.Thanks for taking us along,great info.
John
Velocipede is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2010, 06:06 PM   #48
soulduck
RJB
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Utah
Oddometer: 3
Miguelito, you have morphed. Next thing you know you'll have opposeable thumbs. I'm enjoying your trip too and waiting for those pictures.
I get lost easy. Do you use paper maps, GPS, what? Any suggestions.
soulduck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2010, 09:17 PM   #49
Nata Harli
Cunning Linguist
 
Nata Harli's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2005
Location: Kansas City, MISSOURI
Oddometer: 2,547
Nice report.
__________________
Latin American Ride Reports link
5th Annual Latin American Rider's Rally

No, it's not a Harley , it's a BMW.
Nata Harli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-03-2010, 02:48 PM   #50
OK.
Con Queso
 
OK.'s Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Durango, CO
Oddometer: 62
Thanks for taking the time to post this!

I stayed at the bright orange place in the left of your picture (I don't recall the name of it), but it was great. Thanks again!

Quote:
Originally Posted by miguelito

Sayulita. Well, I didnít really want to hit another gringo town, but Iíve been hearing about this place for years, so I had to at least stop by and check it out. Itís the kind of scene you might expect from a town that has been getting good press, and has fallen into the narcoleptic belief in itsí own press clippings. Donít get me wrong. There are many things to like about the town. Itís setting for one thing. Nestled on beautiful hills next to the sea, with a break that surfers like for one. Besides that it has all those trim and fit young and old surfer body types, so the girl watching ainít bad either.


View from my room at La Casona hotel, Sayulita.

OK. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2010, 10:30 AM   #51
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Velocipede
Miguelito,I'm really enjoying your RR.I've just recently got back to Ontario after a couple of months in Baja and covered much of the the route you took,even stayed in some of the same motels you did.Your ability to sniff out good lodgings is way better than mine though as I usually ended up paying far too much for less than satisfactory accommodations.I found Baja could be quite expensive.Next winter its going to be the Copper Canyon and then further down the west coast where I'll probably be roughly on the route you are taking now.Thanks for taking us along,great info.
John
Thanks John. I found Baja a little more expensive than the mainland also, but I still miss the food at El Cadil, and Danny's asadero in Mulege. One of the things I've realized this trip is that the higher priced rooms seem to be in the beach towns, but even there you can find some bargains if you check around. One of the things I try to do is negotiate lower rates for longer stays, so I can usually save money that way. This approach is harder to make work in the tourist towns, but isn't impossible. A lot of Mexico's tourist trade is slow this year with the economy in the state it's in. This year, I'm making stays in one place of up to a month, so it actually becomes quite affordable to have a really nice place for a fraction of what the day-rate would add up to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by soulduck
Miguelito, you have morphed. Next thing you know you'll have opposeable thumbs. I'm enjoying your trip too and waiting for those pictures.
I get lost easy. Do you use paper maps, GPS, what? Any suggestions.
Soulduck, not sure if I'm getting opposable thumbs or webbed feet at this point. I do love the ocean temperature here. I use maps. I can see the advantage of a gps, esp when navigating in a city, (where street signs and route markers virtually disappear too often), but can also see a huge disadvantage if your gps breaks or is lost, or stolen. I recommend as most here do the Guia Roji maps. The other ones they sell in Borders Books are OK in a pinch, but I've seen more than one place that while not in the wrong position on the map, had the orientation of roads kinda f@#ked up.
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 02:14 PM   #52
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Ok. Had a long break there. I've just been laying low in Puerto Escondido, enjoying having a place of my own. After almost a three weeks of living in motels and eating out, it becomes a real pleasure to have a place to sleep, cook, and eat. And I've been doing just that. Oh... and drinking lots of beer as well. There are a couple of cats that seem to live here. They've moved in with me anyway. I've also got a number of geckos who live here, occasionally popping their heads out from behind the sofa to see what I'm up to.



I'm in a quiet little corner of town called Rinconada, which is right beside Playa Carazillo, a beautiful little horseshoe bay without the big waves common across town at Playa Zicatela. It's much more pleasant to swim here than in the big surf, IMO.
Carizalillo Beach


I can walk from here to downtown and taxis to Zicatela cost about $2.50

View from the taqueria I eat at often in downtown P.E.


The Puerto en Puerto Escondido


I took a little ride north of town toward Oaxaca, on a road that would be an awesome moto road, if the pavement were in better shape. Endless twists and turns, but due to roughness, you couldn't really push it much.



Then I took an excursion on a dirt road to the hamlet of Reforma. I didn't take any pics there. It's just a little mountain town. People seemed friendly enough.



It was a long dusty climb, on a road that looked like it got washed out regularly.





On the way back to town I stoppped at a horticultural exhibit operated by a local University. They had these unusual trees called "cabeza del toro" or Bulls head trees, so named for obvious reasons.



A few days later I rode south of town and went for a swim on one of the miles of empty beaches here in Oaxaca.









It's friggin hot here now. Once you go out in the sun, your T-shirt is soaked in sweat within 10 minutes and you're ready for a shower or a swim. I can't imagine what it would be like in the summertime. I'm starting to look forward to getting a little higher in elevation just to cool things off a bit. When my month's lease is up, I'll probably head south along the coast for another day or so, and then head up toward Ciudad Oaxaca. That's about it for now. Cheers!

miguelito screwed with this post 03-11-2010 at 03:12 PM
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 04:02 PM   #53
gasandasphalt
Gnarly Adventurer
 
gasandasphalt's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2007
Location: S/W New Mexico
Oddometer: 471
Howdy Miguel,

Sounds like the way to see a new place is do as you are doing, stay for a month or more...

Enjoying your report and photos a bunch, keep it up..
__________________
bad CZECH
gasandasphalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2010, 01:22 PM   #54
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Well, after three and a half weeks here on the Oaxacan coast, Iíve rediscovered something I all ready knew, but I suppose I felt I needed to test my hypothesis anyway. There are ďBeach peopleĒ, and there are the rest of us. Iím tired of the heat and humidity and ready to head up into the mountains to cool off a bit and hopefully shake the humidity to some extent. Most of the days here are spent in the shade, often sipping a cool drink, and praying for a breeze. Itís just too damn hot to go out for any length of time. I was born with a fully functioning set of sweat glands, and I find myself usually saturated in sweat within 10 minutes out in the sun. Thereís a kind of sticky, smelly gestalt to the life in places like this, that I just canít seem to wrap my head around. Instead, I find myself pausing in front of the open freezer door as I get ice cubes and savoring 10 seconds of some semblance of relief.

Itís not terribly better in the evenings unless youíre sitting still. The minute you exert any calories moving from one spot to another, the same stickiness pervades your being in a way that tries to claim you as one of its own. Itís only the knowledge that a dayís ride away is a 5K ft elevation gain, a consequent drop in temperature, and presumably some relief, that doesn't have me feeling trapped in a humidity bubble.

Itís interesting getting the feel of different towns down here and the variations in native and ex-pat cultures. Puerto Escondido has a large population of ex-pats, snow birds, and surfers hanging around, but itís still a small pond. Iím again reminded of what life was like in high school, surrounded by the same 300 people every day. The result seems to be a cultural morph into a kind of island culture. Where the inhabitants, cut off from the larger world, have evolved arcane social quirks as their familiarity with each other increases, and the social customs of the world ďout thereĒ fade into a pot and alcohol fueled murk. As I said, itís all very interesting. Still, itís been a pleasant town, with lots to see and do and eat. Next time, Iíll come in the dead of winter rather than the shoulder season.

My biggest issue Iíve had so far is trying to find a map. I intended to buy one of the area when I got down here, (mine ran out about 50 miles north of here). I havenít found one yet, so I may be writing down directions from googlemaps and using that to navigate for a while. Go ahead and laugh you gps geeks. If I had a map, Iíd be more inclined to ride down the coast and up to San Cristobal, but as it stands, the simpler thing would be to ride to Ciudad Oaxaca and purchase a map there. These little things, that would be so easily accomplished in the US at any filling station are the things that makes traveling abroad, and in Mexico in this case, a bit more of an adventure than you might have predicted. So it goes.

Meanwhile, Iíve got a cat or a opposum walking on my palm-thatched roof, and the gecko who lives behind my sofa is becoming bolder as he begins to realize after cohabiting for the last month that Iím not out to get him. I think heís kind of cute actually.







The view from the check-out line at the Super Che, (supermarket), here in P.E.





That's what I call a supermarket with a view. Sorry, but I've not been taking many photos lately, so that's all for now.

miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2010, 01:32 PM   #55
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
G & A - Thanks for commenting man. It's nice to know someone's following along, even though I understand this report is not your typical 'on the road' kind of adventure most come here to share. Cheers amigo!
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2010, 07:23 PM   #56
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
I walked around town with my camera today and took some pics of P.E. and here are some of them.


Some of the sweet surf that makes this town famous for the surfing set.


The strip on Zicatela Beach


Surf art.


Another cabana, another afternoon beer.


The edge of the playa principal







The playa principal


Nice mermaid.


Playa principal


The harbor at playa principal. Something tells me this might not be a great place to lay over in a storm. I could see those waves wrapping around the breakwater and wiping a lot of boats out.
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2010, 08:21 PM   #57
805gregg
Just Stroming along
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
Oddometer: 1,525
Keep it up, what is your bike? Looks good.
805gregg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2010, 11:44 AM   #58
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by 805gregg
Keep it up, what is your bike? Looks good.
Greg, it's a Kawasaki Versys. Like the name implies, it's a really versatile bike, and pretty near perfect in size and capabilities for touring Mexico, IMO.
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2010, 10:15 PM   #59
Holaday
Man of Leisure
 
Holaday's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2006
Location: Vancouver's North Shore, B.C.
Oddometer: 566
How much did you pay for the place in PE for a month? Was it easy to find a place for a month ?

Thanks Blair.
__________________



Soon as your born you start dying, so you might as well have a good time!!!

Checkout my Ride Reports:

Baja

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=405461

Kootenays

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=614464
Holaday is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2010, 05:47 PM   #60
miguelito OP
Studly Adventurer
 
miguelito's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: San Miguel de Allende, GTO, Mexico
Oddometer: 505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holaday
How much did you pay for the place in PE for a month? Was it easy to find a place for a month ?

Thanks Blair.
Hi Blair. I spent $750 US for a months rental on this place which is basically a one bedroom, very pleasant casita in a quiet, upscale section of town. I was looking at Craigslist last night for places for rent in Ciudad Oaxaca and San Cristobal and saw some similar prices for 2 and 3 BR houses. A lot of the snowbirds are clearing out of here about now, and some surfers are replacing them as the waves improve a bit here in the spring. The "downturn" in the economy has hit Mexico's tourism industry in general as well, and fewer Americans and Europeans are coming here. Sooo... I think the chances of finding a place here for a reasonable price are excellent. I found this place simply by asking the owners of the hotel I spent my first night here if they knew anybody with an apt. or house for rent. They turned me on to three different options within a block of their place ranging from about $350 to $800/month.
miguelito is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014