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Old 03-15-2010, 07:37 PM   #196
FatBuoy
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You know I really love this idea, and was starting to seriously consider it, but just got a little discouraged after reading the last few posts. I guess I just assumed that you would drain the TT tank as you rode from the start, therefore lightening it up sooner rather than later. Still the best solution all around sans the cost, but not quite what I had ultimately envisioned. $1300-$2k is a big ticket item.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:38 PM   #197
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Yes, the solenoid fuel valve would be powered (open) only when the key is on and the fuel switch is turned on. This way any setting of the petcocks and the fuel switch the fuel flow will be blocked with the key off. If I can fit this in the space available the petcocks could be left open until tank removal for servicing is required.

The instructions I am referring to are the installation instructions that can be downloaded from Touratech's fuel tank description. The way I see the relative positions of the bike's under seat tank and the TT tank you don't want the fuel lines open when filling both tanks.

Perhaps after you have some miles on the tank you can offer a review on what is working and anything that we can improve. I will be ordering next month and depending on order status I should get the project completed a couple weeks later. In addition to the tank I will be changing springs and redoing my accessory wiring harness so I don't have any fuses or junction boxes under the new tank. It will be fun
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:56 PM   #198
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No primer, but I regret that choice. I worry that the first drop will start the de-adhesion process.

I was going to ask about the porosity. Let us know how it goes.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:43 PM   #199
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What's the venting on the tt tank, and why not just route the stock tank vent to the tt tank?
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:59 PM   #200
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I don't have the tank yet, but from the instructions it appears the TT Tank vent is led to a tee with the main tank and then routed to the canister. There is a one way check valve also involved that is between the tanks but I can't figure it out exactly. It will likely make more sense when I do the install. The main thing is you don't want the main tank overfilled. Surplus fuel will go to the canister or to the ground if there is no cannister.
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:41 PM   #201
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I was going to ask about the porosity. Let us know how it goes.
Oh, right. Will do. Though for a minute you said "poorcity". I'll let you know on that too.
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:44 PM   #202
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Originally Posted by gr8ridn
I don't have the tank yet, but from the instructions it appears the TT Tank vent is led to a tee with the main tank and then routed to the canister. There is a one way check valve also involved that is between the tanks but I can't figure it out exactly. It will likely make more sense when I do the install. The main thing is you don't want the main tank overfilled. Surplus fuel will go to the canister or to the ground if there is no cannister.
I had a thought that making sure the vent hoses go above the level of the TT tank before going to the canister might work? Is there a downside to having gas in the vent line from the main tank for long periods of time? Of course I'd have to get a bunch more vent hose...
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Old 03-16-2010, 12:22 PM   #203
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I don't have the tank yet, but I have to believe the design would take the venting above the fuel level like the main tank so fuel is not introduced into the vent line. The check valve I read about might have some function here. Sorry I can't be more specific, too early to know. A call to Touratech might answer your question. Every time I have called I have been given no BS answers.

As for the porosity, this is a Polyamide (PA6) rotation molding material that is rated to seal a number of chemicals including gasoline. The manufacturer, Elkamat, is the supplier of fuel tanks for a number of vehicle manufacturers including Porsche, BMW, KTM, and Yamaha. These manufacturers must ensure their tanks meet EPA regulations concerning vapor containment. They make fuel tanks for production runs as well as speciality runs. They have supplied Paris Dakar teams from KTM and BMW. I think the tanks will be solid and non-porous. On their website they note Touratech as one of their customers. This is a very different material than used for the under seat tank of the F800GS. It a material also used for high strength car bumper structures.
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Old 03-16-2010, 08:46 PM   #204
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Thanks, gr8.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:24 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr8ridn
I don't have the tank yet, but I have to believe the design would take the venting above the fuel level like the main tank so fuel is not introduced into the vent line. The check valve I read about might have some function here. Sorry I can't be more specific, too early to know. A call to Touratech might answer your question. Every time I have called I have been given no BS answers.

As for the porosity, this is a Polyamide (PA6) rotation molding material that is rated to seal a number of chemicals including gasoline. The manufacturer, Elkamat, is the supplier of fuel tanks for a number of vehicle manufacturers including Porsche, BMW, KTM, and Yamaha. These manufacturers must ensure their tanks meet EPA regulations concerning vapor containment. They make fuel tanks for production runs as well as speciality runs. They have supplied Paris Dakar teams from KTM and BMW. I think the tanks will be solid and non-porous. On their website they note Touratech as one of their customers. This is a very different material than used for the under seat tank of the F800GS. It a material also used for high strength car bumper structures.
I really think he was talking about the rhino stuff porosity...not the tank itself.
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Old 03-16-2010, 11:57 PM   #206
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Well, that Rhino Liner is pretty tough too. It's been on my 97 pickup since new and has resisted every scuff, spilled fuel, and other chemicals. If you like the appearance I don't think there are many finishes tougher.
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Old 03-17-2010, 09:06 AM   #207
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Well, that Rhino Liner is pretty tough too. It's been on my 97 pickup since new and has resisted every scuff, spilled fuel, and other chemicals. If you like the appearance I don't think there are many finishes tougher.
I actually used LineX.

LineX vs. Rhino
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:07 AM   #208
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Cool, is the kit meeting your expectations so far?

Anything further on the whistling noise?
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Old 03-17-2010, 07:10 PM   #209
Bill the Duck
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Cool, is the kit meeting your expectations so far?

Anything further on the whistling noise?
I taped up the gaps between the tank and radiator and taped the turn signal mounts (which are actually quite whistle-shaped) and stuffed the ends of the crossbar mount (lower front), but the whistle persists. Looks like I'm gonna have to take the tank off and see what else looks whistley.
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Old 03-29-2010, 10:47 PM   #210
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I taped up the gaps between the tank and radiator and taped the turn signal mounts (which are actually quite whistle-shaped) and stuffed the ends of the crossbar mount (lower front), but the whistle persists. Looks like I'm gonna have to take the tank off and see what else looks whistley.
OK, taped up some of the other bits and stuffed rags into gaps around the beak. Geared up and took off down the street. No whistle! Stop and remove a bit of tape. Still gone. Repeat. Still gone. Remove a rag. Still gone. Remove another, it's back! Stuff back in just on one side of the gap, still whistling. Other side. Still whistling! Hmmm... OK, back on both sides. No whistle. Hmmmmmm......Aha! The middle! Rag stuffed in just the middle and....no fucking whistle!!!



Right behind the beak under the lights is a hollow structural member with the open bit facing forward. Rag's still in there. I'll need to find a more elegant and washable solution.

Or not.
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