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Old 02-19-2013, 08:33 PM   #16186
snakebitten
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Ok ok, I knew I shouldn't have said that.

But I don't think "concern" is unwarranted. Geeeze
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Old 02-19-2013, 08:45 PM   #16187
Animo
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Mr Moto to the curtesy phone, Mr Moto...... ?

Not to say, but whatever happened to Mr Moto?
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:49 PM   #16188
Happy Snapper
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Location: Brisbane, almost heaven!
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Cleaning the beast

So.. after owning the S10 for 5 months now I decided it was time for some back bush road exploration. Last Sunday we covered around 100 k of muddy wet dirt road. A few creek crossings thrown in and then back home in a storm.

The bike is coated in mud.

Yuk!

So what do you inmates use to clean your bike. I have never seen so many nooks that can hold mud. I hesitate to attack it with a pressure cleaner as one can get water into places it shouldn't go.

I ended up spraying it in citrus cleaner and then brushing it with a large paintbrush followed by a hose down.

When it dried .. I had missed heaps of places :-(

So.. attacked it a second time and a better result.

My KLR was a lot easier and quicker to clean.

Any comments or experiences?
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:43 PM   #16189
twinrider
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My first time...

Did my first final drive oil change using the raven method: squeeze the bottle till the fluid runs down the shaft.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:44 PM   #16190
roostar
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As long as I don't give the mud too much time to set up after a dirty ride, the garden hose and nozzle with a bottle brush seems to get most of the crud off.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:24 AM   #16191
GrahamD
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Ok here we go. We should really start a cleaning thread...

Just after getting the bike covered in crap I give it a hose down with the nearest available hose. (Servo, Friends place, Umm new friends place, clean river / creek). If that fails just wait till home time.

Get as much solid stuff off with Lower pressure Gerni / Hose whatever. Before it all dries sponge it down from the top with CT18 Truck wash. Let that soak and dry if you want. The truck wash is design to help get things off. It's designed for truckies that can't sponge a whole truck.

Let that soak in and then work from the top down. Most if the time that's it. Just clean up the axles and do the WD40 on the axle seals and buff off any excess. Just make sure any seals, moving bits and things like that are clean. The other stuff can stay on the bike for a while.

So once a month or two or...

Get Chux, CT18, Sponge, Bucket, Long bristle cheapo Brush, tooth brush (no not the one I use at night but that's up to you.). Bucket. Mr Sheen. Roll of designer toilet paper. Soft and multiply.

Put about 1 cap CT18 per litre in the bucket.

Bug Splats.
Soak a piece chux in CT18 / water and throw it on the wind screen and other large bits. Leave it there and keep it wet.

Mud will come off after a bit of a soak anyway just leaving the film. Hose off all the mud around the bike otherwise you will end up with interesting swirls in the paint of you drop a sponge. (also kids like to "help" and they drop sponges often)
Don't worry about the bike it's Ok with water. It's not Italian.

Do the usual and start at the top with the sponge and work over the bikes easy bits and hose down often.

One you finish the big bits, just work on the smaller bits with the chux. After you have finished most of it you can now slide off those wet chux on the plastic and the bugs should stay with the chux.

Then it's onto the smaller bits with the el cheapo brush. Just get in there and do it. And when it gets even smaller you move to toothbrush.
Once you have finished you grab a beverage and sit back and admire all your work and missed bits. Keep going.
Repeat until you are sick to death of it.
Wheel it into the garage and let it rust until you feel guilty and have to take it for a ride to dry it out.

I find a good 750Km tarmac ride is needed to do it properly.

Once thoroughly dry, give it a bit of a once over with Mr Sheen and polish it off with that nice designer toilet paper.
Mr Sheen will stop things from sticking so easily to everything and that designer toilet paper just shows the bike you care. It also polishes better than cheap scratchy crap.

The only thing I found really bad was cow shit. It sticks and stinks even after two days. I just had to man up and lie down in the stuff and scrub the bottom of the bike where it all caked on. I thought I could get it all with high pressure water but no.

Every now and again give the paint a good polish with a quality cleaner and wax.

After all that I look at the bike and think....

How embarrassing looks like a poser bike now. Better go and get it a bit dirty.

It's a vicious cycle I tell ya.

I don't do this every trip. Sometimes the bugs / mud / dust can just stay there for a while. Cow shit on the other hand keeps reminding you that it is there. While it does remind me of wholesome country living it gets on my nerves after a while.

I do like to give it a thorough clean every month or so. This is when you notice little things that can be fixed to avoid a bigger problem later.

Every 12 months (Middle of winter) I do a big service, pull down clean, tighten, grease oil change etc whether it needs it or not. Last year though I was a bit slack and went out riding a bit.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:26 AM   #16192
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
Did my first final drive oil change using the raven method: squeeze the bottle till the fluid runs down the shaft.
Yeah that's what I did. Worked ok for me. Unless of course you are talking about where the shaft meets the motor
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:24 AM   #16193
Happy Snapper
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Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Brisbane, almost heaven!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Ok here we go. We should really start a cleaning thread...

Just after getting the bike covered in crap I give it a hose down with the nearest available hose. (Servo, Friends place, Umm new friends place, clean river / creek). If that fails just wait till home time.

Get as much solid stuff off with Lower pressure Gerni / Hose whatever. Before it all dries sponge it down from the top with CT18 Truck wash. Let that soak and dry if you want. The truck wash is design to help get things off. It's designed for truckies that can't sponge a whole truck.

Let that soak in and then work from the top down. Most if the time that's it. Just clean up the axles and do the WD40 on the axle seals and buff off any excess. Just make sure any seals, moving bits and things like that are clean. The other stuff can stay on the bike for a while.

So once a month or two or...

Get Chux, CT18, Sponge, Bucket, Long bristle cheapo Brush, tooth brush (no not the one I use at night but that's up to you.). Bucket. Mr Sheen. Roll of designer toilet paper. Soft and multiply.

Put about 1 cap CT18 per litre in the bucket.

Bug Splats.
Soak a piece chux in CT18 / water and throw it on the wind screen and other large bits. Leave it there and keep it wet.

Mud will come off after a bit of a soak anyway just leaving the film. Hose off all the mud around the bike otherwise you will end up with interesting swirls in the paint of you drop a sponge. (also kids like to "help" and they drop sponges often)
Don't worry about the bike it's Ok with water. It's not Italian.

Do the usual and start at the top with the sponge and work over the bikes easy bits and hose down often.

One you finish the big bits, just work on the smaller bits with the chux. After you have finished most of it you can now slide off those wet chux on the plastic and the bugs should stay with the chux.

Then it's onto the smaller bits with the el cheapo brush. Just get in there and do it. And when it gets even smaller you move to toothbrush.
Once you have finished you grab a beverage and sit back and admire all your work and missed bits. Keep going.
Repeat until you are sick to death of it.
Wheel it into the garage and let it rust until you feel guilty and have to take it for a ride to dry it out.

I find a good 750Km tarmac ride is needed to do it properly.

Once thoroughly dry, give it a bit of a once over with Mr Sheen and polish it off with that nice designer toilet paper.
Mr Sheen will stop things from sticking so easily to everything and that designer toilet paper just shows the bike you care. It also polishes better than cheap scratchy crap.

The only thing I found really bad was cow shit. It sticks and stinks even after two days. I just had to man up and lie down in the stuff and scrub the bottom of the bike where it all caked on. I thought I could get it all with high pressure water but no.

Every now and again give the paint a good polish with a quality cleaner and wax.

After all that I look at the bike and think....

How embarrassing looks like a poser bike now. Better go and get it a bit dirty.

It's a vicious cycle I tell ya.

I don't do this every trip. Sometimes the bugs / mud / dust can just stay there for a while. Cow shit on the other hand keeps reminding you that it is there. While it does remind me of wholesome country living it gets on my nerves after a while.

I do like to give it a thorough clean every month or so. This is when you notice little things that can be fixed to avoid a bigger problem later.

Every 12 months (Middle of winter) I do a big service, pull down clean, tighten, grease oil change etc whether it needs it or not. Last year though I was a bit slack and went out riding a bit.
I guess the point I make is that is has little places everywhere to trap mud... compared to the KLR.

Need to get a big brush, a medium brush and a small brush to get in and around all the stuff. Fitted a Staintune and the inside is coated with baked on crap. Might actually remove it to clean it!

Thanks for the details Graham.. off to Super Crap tomorrow for some CT18.
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:42 AM   #16194
Old Git Ray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pluric View Post
I still have a few left from the wheel replacement if needed.
Thanks Rick, I replaced mine with stainless ones when the bike was only 6 months old and I have spares. I also have a new unopened Yamaha set replaced under warranty !

Quote:
Originally Posted by WARRIORPRINCEJJ View Post
The offer for a free Tex-Mex dinner and libation(s) is still good, for you and the Mrs., on your pass through South Central Texas. [IMG]file:///C:\Users\RAYKAR~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
My intention is to pass through Big Bend and St Antone, so you are en-route (I think). We may just take you up on that offer, thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Geology Rocks View Post
old git. depending on when you are in the denver area. I have a spare room and a 3 car garage if you need a place to rest.
Denver....Oh YES. We will be there for a while. There is lots to see and we are especially looking forward to the that bit. Again, we may well take you up on that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty bike View Post
+1 on zip tying the spokes at the cross points. Doesn't need to be tight, just enough so if you loose a nipple, you don't have spokes flopping around to be lost or do damage. Good idea. I'm on it.
For that length of trip, I would consider packing the air filter, My thoughts entirely. We will be a while in the Atacama desert for the DAKAR rally and have tenuously arranged to creep into the bivouac with a British racing team.
(unless you are using foam ones), as many shops here do not stock them. Oil filters are easy to find, just carry a copy of the compatible list of filters. You might score a filter or two before heading South of the US border, just for simplicity. Oil can be found pretty easily, Cargo truck dealers in SA often sell diesel rated oil, which is also the proper rating for motorcycles and lacks the friction modifiers that are hard on wet clutches. Thats good to know, thanks.
Yamaha has good wheel bearings. No harm in carrying them. Most bearing supply houses or larger auto parts stores will likely carry the correct size and be able to cross reference the numbers on the bearings/seals. My FJR front wheel bearing did die prematurely at 149,750 miles. WOW What junk! [IMG]file:///C:\Users\RAYKAR~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlclip1\ 01\clip_image003.gif[/IMG]Should have lasted at least 150k miles. And that was with it's entire life being heavily loaded with fuel cell and usually full rally load, but that was about 400 lbs total over the bike weight, pushing 1000 lbs loaded with me on the bike.
On the levers, have you removed the handguards? From my drops and low speed dumps, the levers seem to be well protected inside the handguards, (just oem). My handguards are beefed up somewhat so it is low risk. It's just old habits realy.
You might consider pre-arranging a tyre change so that a tyre or tyres are waiting for you somewhere. In store availability of tires in moto shops in the US varies widely, often not much in our sizes. I need to look at that, I am currently on a TCK - F,K60s - R combination. Thanks.
If you haven't already put it on your list, change out the fork oil before you ship the bike over and flush/bleed the brake system with some quality DOT 4 brake fluid. I have just changed the brake and clutch fluid along with the coolant. Cheers
Guys, we are very appreciative of your advice and offers of hospitality. It is humbling.

I have a blog running that is mainly aimed at my family (we have been traveling in various vehicles for 3 years now) but that will be our main post area and I will add it to my sig. It is currently stagnant as we are static but I will be waking it up soon.

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Old Git Ray screwed with this post 02-20-2013 at 03:21 AM
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:14 AM   #16195
Kenbike
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I used to use thin SS tie wire on the spokes on my dirt bikes. Sure would keep the spoke in place if it ever broke.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:25 AM   #16196
raybies
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ze_zaskar View Post
- Weight. I know the weight it there because we are talking about a reliable 1200 adv bike, but you can feel it in tight offroad, steep climbs and sand/mud. But to me the answer is not a lighter 1200 bike, but yes a smaller cc one.

- Comsumption. Nice ate normal speeds, but when going at over 130km/h the thing starts drinking.

- Ground clearance. Yamaha could have done better on this. Would be spot on with 2 or 3 extra cm of susp. travel.
I agree.

I've damaged the bike twice, once dropped it in some lose terrain which bent the "crash bar" and damaged the right panel.
And once cracked the sump going down stairs.
Little more clearance and a little less weight, and I think I'd have a blemish free +2 year old bike.

Fuel consumption in city riding is pretty high.
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:48 AM   #16197
Old Git Ray
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Warning...off topic post

Last year, I sponsored a Dutch friend of mine, Sjaak Lucasson, on a lunatic mission.

He intends to ride his Yamaha R1, unaided, from Northwest to Southeast USA. But not the normal summer start, Deadhorse start point. He is starting at Barrow. The northern tip of Alaska and using a sled to ride over the frozen Beaufort sea. He has just arrived in Barrow where the temperature is minus 38 deg C.

He is a complete nut case. He has ridden around the world at least twice, once on a Fireblade and again on an R1 through the deserts. He rides on ice and snow like most of use ride in sunshine. He even makes (modifies) his own tyres as you can see.

Here is his bike and sled: (Wheels removable)


This is his web site which is crazy reading.

http://www.sjaaklucassen.nl/index.ph...id=274&lang=en

Just though you might be interested.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:15 AM   #16198
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Snapper View Post
I guess the point I make is that is has little places everywhere to trap mud... compared to the KLR.

Need to get a big brush, a medium brush and a small brush to get in and around all the stuff. Fitted a Staintune and the inside is coated with baked on crap. Might actually remove it to clean it!

Thanks for the details Graham.. off to Super Crap tomorrow for some CT18.
Yes, The Strom was a bit easier, BUT the Tenere has more open tie down points and less to get scratched. My rear panels on the strom looked a bit crappy after 2 years. Trade offs. It was dirty underneath all that plastic though.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:35 AM   #16199
RED CAT
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Washing the S10!

Hit the local Do It Yourself car wash. Always comes out spotless. Even has a Blow Dryer. Been doing this for 35 years. No ill effects. Works the charm and saves hours with a brush and garden hose.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:56 AM   #16200
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roostar View Post
As long as I don't give the mud too much time to set up after a dirty ride, the garden hose and nozzle with a bottle brush seems to get most of the crud off.
These things are great for getting into awkward spots. Get a good one
the cheap ones don't work as well.

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