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Old 04-02-2013, 05:22 AM   #16921
Old Git Ray
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Location: UK based, Touring the Americas
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I personally think a little experimentation is the best way.

Start with, say a 5A fuse and see if it blows when the fan comes on (usually the highest drain time) and slowly work up if it does.

I would suggest a high air temperature would be an advantage too. (Not that we ever get them in the UK !!)

At least that is IMHO the safest way unless I have no idea what I am talking about which is probable.
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Old 04-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #16922
bross
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Git Ray View Post
I personally think a little experimentation is the best way.

Start with, say a 5A fuse and see if it blows when the fan comes on (usually the highest drain time) and slowly work up if it does.

I would suggest a high air temperature would be an advantage too. (Not that we ever get them in the UK !!)

At least that is IMHO the safest way unless I have no idea what I am talking about which is probable.
I'm intrigued with these Poly Fuses. To test couldn't you just grab your fan to stop it? Wait for the fuse to trip?

The fan on my Tiger warped so that it would rub every revolution and if it happened to stop on the rubbing part it didn't have enough torque to start again. I just got in the habit of reaching down and giving the fan blades a nudge when I saw my temp gauge start to climb.

Would having one of these delay your trouble shooting though? If it resets every time you cycle the key, you could be riding for a while before you noticed the bike overheating?
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Old 04-02-2013, 01:27 PM   #16923
GrahamD
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The poly fuses are like a really slow blow fuse. So they survive big surges, like start up surges, but if you sustain high current, like a stuck motor, they heat up and go high resistance. If the fan is stuck it will be a race to get the poly fuse hot before the fan coils. Sure you can experiment but you sort of want to pick a poly fuse that is too small first so it helps to get an idea what you are actually dealing with. Fans get expensive really quickly.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:03 PM   #16924
WestVirginia
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Tenere vs. Suzuki DL1000

I see a lot of stuff here on the Tenere and the DL650, but it is almost as if the DL1000 doesn't exist.

A new DL1000 is coming (for sure, maybe), so dealers are "getting rid" of 2012 DL1000's for $8,500 out the door.

I'm a newbie, just wondering why the DL1000's are rarely mentioned.

You know how it is...just before you buy a bike you start to question everything...

I love the Tenere, just wondering why it costs $4,000 more. Hec, that is almost a KLR.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:40 PM   #16925
sallydog
no more Green KLR
 
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Location: exit 98 NJ
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anyone have problems with the clutch? 1 yr old 35000 miles. slipping like crazy. tight as a drum till my big tuneup 2 weeks ago. put in full synthetic, now slippery???
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:43 PM   #16926
bross
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anyone have problems with the clutch? 1 yr old 35000 miles. slipping like crazy. tight as a drum till my big tuneup 2 weeks ago. put in full synthetic, now slippery???
Obvious question but what type of oil, didn't say "Energy Conserving" did it? Synthetic won't make your clutch slip *unless* it has friction modifiers in it.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:53 PM   #16927
sallydog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Obvious question but what type of oil, didn't say "Energy Conserving" did it? Synthetic won't make your clutch slip *unless* it has friction modifiers in it.
ticket says max cycle 10w40 16.49 qt
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:13 PM   #16928
tremor38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sallydog View Post
ticket says max cycle 10w40 16.49 qt
I'd be suspicious of an off brand like that. A known brand of synth with the '4T' designation would put me more at ease.
This sounds earily similar to what happened the my bike when I tried some 'car' Mobile One.


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Old 04-02-2013, 05:21 PM   #16929
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snakebitten View Post
I wonder why?

You and I turn our heat on at home....what, 3 or 4 days a year?

i actually purchased some slap-on heated grips from Aerostich, just in case someday.......
Hey snake, I sent you a PM.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:07 PM   #16930
RED CAT
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Car Mobil 1 15/40.

Works fine. No slipping clutches.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:26 PM   #16931
BobLoblaw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RED CAT View Post
Works fine. No slipping clutches.
ya but Tremor was using Mobile 1 Max Cycle is Royal Purple
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:58 PM   #16932
snakebitten
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Hey snake, I sent you a PM.
I'm outta my coma now mate.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:38 PM   #16933
White Tenere
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Excel Throttle Control

Installed a Excel Throttle Control on the Super Tenere- here's a short video.

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Old 04-02-2013, 08:40 PM   #16934
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snakebitten View Post


I'm outta my coma now mate.
Thanks. Got the PM.
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"I just may as well admit that my other bikes are toast. I don't ride them. Plain and simple. I didn't want this. It wasn't the plan." - snakebitten
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:56 PM   #16935
pluric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WestVirginia View Post
I see a lot of stuff here on the Tenere and the DL650, but it is almost as if the DL1000 doesn't exist.

A new DL1000 is coming (for sure, maybe), so dealers are "getting rid" of 2012 DL1000's for $8,500 out the door.

I'm a newbie, just wondering why the DL1000's are rarely mentioned.

You know how it is...just before you buy a bike you start to question everything...

I love the Tenere, just wondering why it costs $4,000 more. Hec, that is almost a KLR.
Several of us have come off DL 1000s. I had one for 8 years. A little tweaking and
they are fine for what they cost. Very dependable.

For me the Tenere is well worth the money difference. Performance wise they are close.
Suspension and off road ability they have a pretty large gap. The shaft is nice too.

I have no regrets moving on to the Tenere from a Strom.
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