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Old 08-30-2013, 01:19 AM   #19576
Old Git Ray
Now retired...YeeHaa
 
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Location: UK based, Bored because I am not travelling
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Icecold Dan View Post
In case you guys haven't seen it, there is an interresting post in Perfect Lines about ABS offroad. I guess they haven't ridden a S10. Some people will never get it.
Just popped over there to put em straight.....

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=87
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:12 PM   #19577
beasty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketJohn View Post
I guess the bike felt you weren't using it enough.
So why does the bike require so much back brake?
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:28 PM   #19578
snakebitten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beasty View Post
So why does the bike require so much back brake?
Don't know if it "requires" it. But it does appear the linked brake programming throws a fair amount at the back brake even if you don't do so yourself.
More so if the bike is loaded down too. Seems the ABS program will measure rate of deceleration and throw even more at the rear brakes if it feels it is not slowing quick enough. (Typical scenario if bike is loaded)
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Old 08-30-2013, 12:36 PM   #19579
Jim Rowley
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Could the wear to the rear pads be accelerated due to a single rotor versus the dual setup up front if the pressure is split between the two axles?
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Old 08-30-2013, 01:19 PM   #19580
beasty
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Does the use of the rear brake protect the shaft drive when slowing in any way?
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:15 PM   #19581
Dallara
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Joined: Sep 2006
Location: South Texas
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Pad wear...

~


Honestly, folks...

I think the one reason the rear brake pads wear faster on the Super Tenere for some folks is that they do use the pedal with the front brake lever, or perhaps they ride more in stop-and-go traffic at slow speeds so are using the rear brake to maneuver with a bit more... Or maybe they ride off-road more than most and use the rear pedal more...

But most likely the base cause is simply the style of caliper Yamaha chose to use out back.

You see, up front the Super Tenere uses a four-live-piston design caliper, which puts much more balanced pressure on the pads for one, and by design usually has less pad drag on the discs.

Conversely, for the rear brake the bike uses a floating caliper with only a single live-piston. With a caliper like this when brake line pressure is applied a piston on only one side of the caliper presses its pad toward the disc. The other pad is mounted to the caliper itself, and the caliper rides on pins that allow it to slide... When the live-piston applies pressure to its pad on one side of the disc it forces the caliper to slide over on its pins to allow the other pad to engage the disc.

When you release the brake line pressure the caliper, in theory, is supposed to slide back and away from the disc, but single live-piston, sliding calipers are notorious for not sliding completely away from the disc, especially as miles pile on.

Remember, the only thing that returns a brake caliper piston is the deformation of the piston seal, but as dirt, brake dust, microscopic surface corrosion, etc. build up on the caliper piston, and the seal goes through numerous heat cycles, the piston doesn't return quite like it did when it was fresh, and you end up with a modicum of brake pad drag on the disc... resulting in higher wear rates for a single live-piston caliper.

Up front, with all the pistons being "live", each is returned by its own seal, and certainly the seals are subject to some of the some issues as that single rear seal... But the fronts have an advantage - the discs "float" a slight amount on little buttons between the discs themselves and their carriers to the hub. This is primarily to allow them to be "self-aligning" (the rigid mounted rear disc's pads "self-aligns" because of the caliper being able to slide on those pins), but this also allows the discs to "knock back" the pads and pistons of the front calipers, resulting in less drag when the brakes are not applied.

Hope this helps!

Dallara



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Old 08-30-2013, 03:18 PM   #19582
markjenn
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Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Swellvue, WA
Oddometer: 10,473
I almost never use the rear brake pedal and my rear brake pad wear, which is even side-to-side, is about 50% more than the front and I'm expecting to have to replace the rear pads at about 20K while the fronts should go to 30K or so. I would attribute this somewhat higher rear pad wear to whatever rear brake bias Yamaha has built into the linked system.

Whether it is too much or too little depends on your POV - it certainly is too much if the pads are supposed to wear evenly front-to-back while using only the front brake lever. But I suspect Yamaha designed the brake system for best braking performance in their view, not perfectly even pad wear.

- Mark
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Old 08-30-2013, 03:38 PM   #19583
Dallara
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Location: South Texas
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Maybe...

Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I almost never use the rear brake pedal and my rear brake pad wear, which is even side-to-side, is about 50% more than the front and I'm expecting to have to replace the rear pads at about 20K while the fronts should go to 30K or so. I would attribute this somewhat higher rear pad wear to whatever rear brake bias Yamaha has built into the linked system.

Whether it is too much or too little depends on your POV - it certainly is too much if the pads are supposed to wear evenly front-to-back while using only the front brake lever. But I suspect Yamaha designed the brake system for best braking performance in their view, not perfectly even pad wear.

- Mark


I don't use the rear brake, either...

And I replaced my brake pads - F & R - back at 16,500 miles. They could have gone a whole lot further, but I was there, had the new pads in-hand, and decided to go ahead and replace them. With my pad sets the wear was fairly even - front compared to rear. Don't know why, as it seems the modus operandi for the model is more rear pad wear.

That said, the inner, static pad on rear caliper was definitely worn more than the pad from the live piston side. I've got the old pads on the shelf in the garage, and if I get a chance to take a picture of them (and remember to) in the next couple of days I'll post it up.

Dallara


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Old 08-30-2013, 08:48 PM   #19584
scudrunner82
combustion addict
 
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Joined: Oct 2012
Location: Catskill, NY
Oddometer: 2,767
First actual mechanical issue with my Tenere fixed today. Almost 15k miles on her.
Hardly worth mentioning but some clunking noise in the front end began and kept getting worse. I took off the rubber cap on the steering nut and sure enough it had backed off less than finger tight. I re-set the head bearings and torqued it to 90 Ft Lbs as per the manual, except I added some blue locktite for insurance!
All fixed.
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Old 08-30-2013, 08:51 PM   #19585
scudrunner82
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Location: Catskill, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
I almost never use the rear brake pedal and my rear brake pad wear, which is even side-to-side, is about 50% more than the front and I'm expecting to have to replace the rear pads at about 20K while the fronts should go to 30K or so. I would attribute this somewhat higher rear pad wear to whatever rear brake bias Yamaha has built into the linked system.

Whether it is too much or too little depends on your POV - it certainly is too much if the pads are supposed to wear evenly front-to-back while using only the front brake lever. But I suspect Yamaha designed the brake system for best braking performance in their view, not perfectly even pad wear.

- Mark

The UBS is probably THE one single thing I would change about the bike. I wish it didn't have it. I've adapted to always applying the rear brake first so it doesn't kick in. IMHO it applies too much rear bias for my riding style.
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:04 PM   #19586
snakebitten
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Coastal Texas
Oddometer: 981
Other than tires, the rear brake pads are the only thing I can get to wear on this bike.
They remind me that the Tenere is not a dream. It's a real motorcycle. :)

Changed them at 12,000 and 24,000. Both times they probably could have made it to the next service interval. Neither time did I try. They were cheap.

When I read how the linked system works, it made sense to me that my often "pack mule" style of riding resulted in even more braking force sent to the rear. I guess I could go back to normal braking, instead of the now habit forming front brake lever solely.
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Old 08-30-2013, 11:47 PM   #19587
Red Dust
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Joined: Aug 2006
Location: North of Brisbane
Oddometer: 463
Installed a Madstad bracket yesterday with my stock screen (have been riding without screen due to my choice of clean air instead of buffeting) and loved to think it was better then stock set up but I`m not sure anymore, even with my short home made screen it is still bad, maybe because it is further forward and might even make the matter worse.
Tried most setting of the Madstad but running out of options.
I`m thinking about sending back the bracket but hope with it and maybe some modification or even a different screen (think the "lip" on top of stock screen causing more buffeting. Will most likely getting the side wind deflectors and in combination with different screen and the Madstad bracket it could be ok?
If you guys have ever ridden without the screen you will understand what I mean with buffeting, ok without you get air pressure especially in high speeds and also not very comfy in cold & rainy weather but other times the wind is not bad, nice and quiet compared to helmet buffeting. If you stand on the pegs at around 60-70 miles per hour and then sit down I know which I prefer. Lucky all those who got none buffeting! I got a good helmet, highest seat position and I`m 5 11".
I do not want a barn door to a screen, I do not think it is very practical in rough terrain but would love a screen that is about the same height as stock + - 1-2 inches.
There would be lot of suggestions but most screens are made in USA and cost a fortune to ship to Australia, would it been that difficult of Yamaha to make good wind management? It will be solved one day as my vibe issue which is now much better.
Got a parcel delivered to my door today, it says Flexx and is from Utah.... will try to install the content of that package now :-)
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Old 08-31-2013, 03:18 AM   #19588
PWRCRZR
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Joined: May 2008
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Oddometer: 7,686
Another update..

I have ticked away a bit over 8000 miles on the Tenere this season. I really can not say to much negative about the bike. It has very easily replaced the KLR and the Vstrom by covering almost every bit of terrain and roadway I had on those bikes with ease. There were certainly a few nasty places I had the KLR that I am not capable to take the Tenere. But those are very few.

I have had several chances to take the Tenere on roads less traveled. Most of them were back in the spring with the bike shod with K60's. Even though the Tenere is larger and heavier than the KLR I find it much more agile and confidence inspiring off road. The traction control does a great job of keeping be between the trees and pointed in the right direction. The ABS brakes have not been an issue either, if you hit the rear only first it overides the system. As with any big bikes mud is the limiting factor for me. I had even spent several hours on gravely roads and trails in NB two up loaded for bear on street tires and never once felt uncomfortable.

On the road it is well balanced, handles nicely, suspension is decent for now(a little under sprung 2 up). Wind protection is good for what it is, ergo's are almost perfect for me. I do find the seat to be a bit uncomfortable though, not so much that I whine after an 8 hour day but uncomfortable none the less.. In an effort to find a better seat I tried a Saddlemen Adventure Tour, my wife likes the pillion but the rider section is possibly worse than stock for me. So I took a gamble and sent my stock seat out to Seatconcepts to have them done.I was a little worried about doing a nice enough job installing the cover myself so I figured the $20 and shipping was worth it. We got their first pillion seat for her to try. I wont really know till next weekend what we think as we are going to the Green Mountain Rally then. ChrisW and T have both tried the bike and felt the bars need to come back a bit, I think they are right. I tried rolling them back but didn't like the angle so I may need risers.





2 up, my wife finds the overall ride quality of the Tenere much better than the V, but the ergo's aren't as nice. She is a little more cramped and has an issue with the Jesse bag mounting rack hitting her in the ankle. Makes her skew her foot a bit which in turn makes her hip hurt after a few hours.

So all in all I am still very pleased with the Tenere's performance and hope to log many more miles on it.



Our upcoming 10 day trip to Virginia should be a big tell as to how the bike does. Ginger and I are already discussing looking to add a big street bike to the stable someday, something with better pillion comfort. She also hopes I wont go near any dirt with a "street" bike
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Old 08-31-2013, 04:58 AM   #19589
numbaphive
aka BSTARD
 
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Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Australia SE QLD
Oddometer: 371
Quote:
Originally Posted by scudrunner82 View Post
First actual mechanical issue with my Tenere fixed today. Almost 15k miles on her.
Hardly worth mentioning but some clunking noise in the front end began and kept getting worse. I took off the rubber cap on the steering nut and sure enough it had backed off less than finger tight. I re-set the head bearings and torqued it to 90 Ft Lbs as per the manual, except I added some blue locktite for insurance!
All fixed.
Same

Quote:
Originally Posted by BSTARD View Post
Was just adjusting my handlebars after installing the some risers and happened to notice that the steering stem nut was loose, very loose. May pay to check yours, all the info's in the pic.

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Old 08-31-2013, 07:22 AM   #19590
Roadscum
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Joined: May 2007
Location: SW Florida
Oddometer: 2,505
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Dust View Post
Installed a Madstad bracket yesterday with my stock screen (have been riding without screen due to my choice of clean air instead of buffeting) and loved to think it was better then stock set up but I`m not sure anymore, even with my short home made screen it is still bad, maybe because it is further forward and might even make the matter worse.
Tried most setting of the Madstad but running out of options.
I`m thinking about sending back the bracket but hope with it and maybe some modification or even a different screen (think the "lip" on top of stock screen causing more buffeting. Will most likely getting the side wind deflectors and in combination with different screen and the Madstad bracket it could be ok?
If you guys have ever ridden without the screen you will understand what I mean with buffeting, ok without you get air pressure especially in high speeds and also not very comfy in cold & rainy weather but other times the wind is not bad, nice and quiet compared to helmet buffeting. If you stand on the pegs at around 60-70 miles per hour and then sit down I know which I prefer. Lucky all those who got none buffeting! I got a good helmet, highest seat position and I`m 5 11".
I do not want a barn door to a screen, I do not think it is very practical in rough terrain but would love a screen that is about the same height as stock + - 1-2 inches.
There would be lot of suggestions but most screens are made in USA and cost a fortune to ship to Australia, would it been that difficult of Yamaha to make good wind management? It will be solved one day as my vibe issue which is now much better.
Got a parcel delivered to my door today, it says Flexx and is from Utah.... will try to install the content of that package now :-)
I've got the 20" screen provided by Madstad and the Yamaha OEM wind deflectors, no buffeting with my Shoei Neotech helment. Do you have the OEM deflectors installed?

Regards, Paul
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