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Old 11-23-2011, 04:00 AM   #10186
Desert Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFoole View Post
DO IT DAVE!! You won't be sorry.....


Lets just say I've been lurking in the Tenere threads a lot lately trying to educate myself. I have to check out the Explorer first. Just a few years ago nobody was making a bike I wanted, now I have tough choices. I'm certain whichever way I go I'll wish my bike was more like the other in certain aspects.

......Back to quietly observing
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:25 AM   #10187
Paulvt1
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I don't think there will be much in it between any of the contenders now. As you say - we are spoilt for choice now!
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:47 AM   #10188
Bundu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Dave View Post
Lets just say I've been lurking in the Tenere threads a lot lately trying to educate myself. I have to check out the Explorer first. Just a few years ago nobody was making a bike I wanted, now I have tough choices. I'm certain whichever way I go I'll wish my bike was more like the other in certain aspects.

......Back to quietly observing
I'm seriously thinking of getting the Explorer - main reason, more power......
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:01 AM   #10189
Thagua
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Location: Santiago, Chile
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OEM crash bar test

Quote:
Originally Posted by Don T View Post
Thanks
This is how the OEM crash bar looked after a slow speed crash on dirt, gravel and stones ... good protection of the engine ... the other side extension I have for foot protection went backwards damaging slightly the engine cover ... my foot was trapped under and my fibula bone broken but I kept riding that saturday and the following day ...
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Old 11-23-2011, 07:27 AM   #10190
Wreckchecker
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Here's the OEM bar on the Irish bike after the very fast high-side crash and then a long slide into what looks like a dirt ditch. The bars did well in protecting this lower area, but note the broken footpeg. Even with this, the broken spokes, and bent wheels, the bike would run.

The rider's leg and facial injuries (Arai open face helmet) were more extensive.

For how big the bars are, I was initially surprised at the plastic damage, till noticing how forward they are. You can see that the upper portion of the bars are not scratched! The OEM side case remained with the bike and locked throughout the accident - we removed it for this photo.


Again, this was well over the US double nickel speed limit.

The rider's leg and facial injuries (Arai open face helmet) were more extensive and yet another case for good head protection.
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Wreckchecker screwed with this post 11-23-2011 at 07:34 AM
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:34 AM   #10191
DaFoole
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Dave View Post
Just a few years ago nobody was making a bike I wanted, now I have tough choices. I'm certain whichever way I go I'll wish my bike was more like the other in certain aspects.

......Back to quietly observing
The Explorer looks awesome.
Gonna have some serious juice and I LOVE those triples! It would have been on my short list had it been available.
If'n you want to try the ST sometime give me a shout and we'll hook up.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:18 PM   #10192
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wreckchecker View Post
The OEM side case remained with the bike and locked throughout the accident - we removed it for this photo.

The steering looks very ummm "fast" on that bike, Took a bit of a hit.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:55 PM   #10193
XRAnimal
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621 miles on my frickin nice bike, did the service and checked the spokes. Rear spokes were perfect, fronts not as much, but good considering the offroad shakedown last weekend. I'll be installing the heated grips and removing the bike panels, pastics, etc, this weekend and doing a bolt check. Anything else I should give extra attention too?

Did a 2 up ride with my wife last weekend. Cranked up the pre-load (not sayin how much ). The 2-up was really nice on a 155 ml paved ride with a mix of twisties throught the state forests of PA. The Tenere surprised some of the orange and black bikes when I slightly deviated from the breakin instructions and pulled away with 2 up.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:05 PM   #10194
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRAnimal View Post
621 miles on my frickin nice bike, did the service and checked the spokes. Rear spokes were perfect, fronts not as much, but good considering the offroad shakedown last weekend. I'll be installing the heated grips and removing the bike panels, pastics, etc, this weekend and doing a bolt check. Anything else I should give extra attention too?

Did a 2 up ride with my wife last weekend. Cranked up the pre-load (not sayin how much ). The 2-up was really nice on a 155 ml paved ride with a mix of twisties throught the state forests of PA. The Tenere surprised some of the orange and black bikes when I slightly deviated from the breakin instructions and pulled away with 2 up.
Good to see it being (ab)used to its potential
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:06 PM   #10195
Don T
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Question A question to the wise - or those with a workshop manual.

What is the correct sequence for tensioning the spokes on a S10 rim?

On a "normal" wired motorcycle wheel, the sequence is 1-4-7-10... then 2-5-8-11... and so on...
If you just tighten them 1-2-3-4... you wil end up with a wheel that is out of true.

What is the right way to do it on the S10's "weird" wheels?
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Old 11-24-2011, 08:35 PM   #10196
markjenn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don T View Post
What is the correct sequence for tensioning the spokes on a S10 rim?

On a "normal" wired motorcycle wheel, the sequence is 1-4-7-10... then 2-5-8-11... and so on...
If you just tighten them 1-2-3-4... you wil end up with a wheel that is out of true.

What is the right way to do it on the S10's "weird" wheels?
The workshop manual doesn't discuss a technique.

There seem to be three techniques in wide use on wire wheels in general: 1) tighten to a specific torque; 2) tighten by sound; and 3) tighten by observing the runout of the rim. All three techniques (or a combo) seem to be used by S10 owners.

I'm no expert, but I've never heard of the sequencing you mention and don't see how it would affect the final trueness of the rim, except perhaps at the early stages of wheel building from scratch.

- Mark
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:02 AM   #10197
20valves
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markjenn View Post
... 1) tighten to a specific torque; 2) tighten by sound; and 3) tighten by observing the runout of the rim. All three techniques (or a combo) seem to be used by S10 owners....
using 1 and then checking your work with 3 would seem best. 2 would be tricky at best imho (no, I can't sing or play an instrument). I believe they now sell torque wrenches for spokes. Motion Pro I think?
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:56 PM   #10198
Ze_zaskar
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Hi everybody
The more I look at my S10, the more it begs to have it's rear raised. After checking OTR and Wasp's raising links prices, I decided to make my own.

Instead of doing the math I simply placed the bike on the center stand and took off the current links. Measured the wheel drop and the new distance between the link holes centers. This gave me something like a 30mm wheel drop (or rear rise) and 90mm between centers links.

Now, I can get the links cut from the CAD drawing with ease, but not so much with the stands modifications for the increased height. So I'm thinking about leaving the center and side stands stock.
Do you think this is a reasonable idea?
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:58 PM   #10199
japako
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valves View Post
using 1 and then checking your work with 3 would seem best. 2 would be tricky at best imho (no, I can't sing or play an instrument). I believe they now sell torque wrenches for spokes. Motion Pro I think?
Number two works well on 1 or 2 spokes that sound dull. I would not want to try the whole wheel with that method.
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Old 11-27-2011, 04:33 PM   #10200
Dallara
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Spoke Torque Wrenches & Yamaha S-10's...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20valves View Post
...I believe they now sell torque wrenches for spokes. Motion Pro I think?

Just as an FYI...

I have one of the excellent RK-Excel brand (same as the RK chain and Excel rim outfits) spoke torque wrench sets, and a very fine, high quality tool it is. Use it quite well on my vintage MX bikes.

However, it is *NOT* effectively usable on the vast majority of the Yamaha Super Tenere's spokes - front or rear - because it is simply too large to get into the space available at the spoke nipples down near the hubs. Works great on a normal rim where the spoke nipples are out at the rim, but for the most part you can't get it onto to most of the Super Tenere's spoke nipples.

In fact, it's often difficult to get most normal sized spoke wrenches on the Super Tenere's nipples in many cases. If I didn't have an ancient "shorty" big-head spoke wrench the correct size (6mm IIRC) I could not have thoroughly checked and properly tightened my Super Tenere spokes.

Again, just FYI... Needless to say, YMMV.

Dallara



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