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Old 01-31-2010, 10:55 AM   #16
danceswithcages
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In!

Spending 3 weeks in December riding Baja. Really enjoying your RR!
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Old 01-31-2010, 04:59 PM   #17
gsstampeder OP
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We woke up cold and hungry. I had the fire going in record time. Those old cactus trees burn real good. And fast. The Germans were a little more prepared then I, with and my gatorade and cookies, they had Tortillas and Nutella....I was jealous and they could tell, and soon they were sharing some nutella tortillas with me in exchange for a few vanilla cookies. Life was good. Well it was good in the Baja, but not so much at home. And travelling with my new friends was not giving me the time to do much soul searching. But there was still lotsa trip left.....Lots.
We had driven more then we had thought we would and gas was becoming a real issue. We thought we'd have enough to reach at least the highway, but not much more. There was a ranch a short distance from san Francisquito that had a gas for sale sign and we thought it best to circle back and buy a gallon each. Good decision.
We found the ranch and rode up to a closed gate. We sat there parked like a bunch noobs that we were until we realized....ain't nobody comin out to open it for us. So we opened (and shut) it ourselves and rode up to the ranch. Oscar the owner greeted us with a handshake and a smile. Asked us how much gas we needed. We told him a gallon each and he set one of his....? guys to siphon 3 gallons from his truck. He then took us for a tour of his ranch. Quite impressive really, he grew oranges from funneling the rain water from the hills behind his house and he made coal for cooking as well bricks for his new house. We chatted while the gas was being 'pumped' and told him of our nite in the dessert. He then shouted something to somewhere inside his house and the next thing you know his wife is bringing out a plate of food. Are you kidding? I love you Oscar! We then paid for our gas and before leaving he poured us a shot of good tequilla and gave us directions how to reach the highway ih a day.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
And off we went. Fresh gas, good food, a shot of tequilla and a new friend.
Thx Oscar!
Funny how Fox Media and the likes never report on stories like this from Mexico isn't it. Before I left for this trip all I heard was how risky this trip would be...so unsafe in Mexico now. Too bad the majority feel this way and don't know the truth...then again
Another lil sidebar here. Before leaving Gonzaga, I had parked at the super-mini across from the Pemex station and ran in to get some....cookies and gatorade and I was getting back on my bike when i thought i felt something fall from me. I did a quick look and saw nothing so proceeded to put my helmet and gloves back on. I was just ready to turn the key when a kid from the millitary truck parked next to me jumps out and runs over beside me, he reaches down and picks up my money clip. Really? 10 seconds from now I would have been driving away...broke, if not for the 'honest kid' parked next to me. Yeah, he was military...but the fact is he saw it and did the right thing. There was at least 4000+ pesos in the clip. I sat there for a minute collecting myself and started to pull some money out (it wasn't easy with so many bills folded up) when I saw him shaking his head and waving 'no.' Really?
That still blows me away!

Leaving Oscar's
[IMG][/IMG]
So much damn fun
[IMG][/IMG]
Now I don't have a lot of dirt experience but I can tell you travelling 60-70 mph down a road like this is just unbelievably fun
[IMG][/IMG]
and it just goes on and on and....
[IMG][/IMG]
There was a nasty rough road as you approached the highway....or there was this just off to the side. I liked it down here way better.
[IMG][/IMG]
We finally hit the pavement and booted it to Guerro Negro. We found a cheap hotel and I secured the bike
[IMG][/IMG]
and then we hit the supermarket for some meat to BBQ. Turns out while I was off checking emails Thomas, bless his soul, had found us a grill to cook on. I tell ya, these Germans are thrifty as all hell. And cheap too
[IMG][/IMG]
Perhaps not the cleanest grill I've cooked on but it kinda helped disguise the taste of the green wood we were using for coals. If only we'd known earlier. I'm sure Oscar would have given us some real cooking coal
[IMG][/IMG]
Guess who's steak is who's?
Tomorrow we hit the Pacific coast....

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Old 01-31-2010, 05:28 PM   #18
Rob.G
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Sounds like a great trip!

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Old 01-31-2010, 06:05 PM   #19
Odysseus
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Thanks for taking us along!
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Old 01-31-2010, 06:39 PM   #20
gsstampeder OP
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It was a great trip!
And I'm only too happy to share it with others.
I know I have sat back and read my share of RR's from Baja and enjoyed them all. Each RR seems to bring out a whole new adventure. Even if the same shit happens, only to another adv seeker. Their adventure is their own to live and interpret as they see it unfold. Baja does that...at least to me. Cause it definitely is a land of adventure.

I actually ended up leaving my bike in Tucson, and all indications point to me heading back for a few more weeks.

Sadly, things did not turn out well upon my return.
So I may need more 'cleansing' and I can't think of a better place then Baja. Which is why I am pushing to get this RR finished.

So I can go and live another!
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:05 PM   #21
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...and the way the Flames are playing, now is a real good time to go!

thanks for the RR, best of luck.
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Old 01-31-2010, 07:54 PM   #22
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We left Guerro Negro and headed out to the whale watching joint. But there were no whales, 'cept this one
[IMG][/IMG]
So we turned around and started riding south. Ahhh, ya seen one whale ya seen 'em all right?
We kinda got lost looking for a good dirt trail outta there. We just didn't want any more pavement.
tried this one...
[IMG][/IMG]
Nope, how 'bout this one?
[IMG][/IMG]
Damn that's a nice bike!
[IMG][/IMG]
This picture really is only meant to show how clean and strait and not scratched my panniers were at this stage of the trip. Not so much anymore!!!!!
We continued circling around these salt flats looking for a good route when we came to a sign that said something like "FEDERAL PROPERTY - DO NOT PASS"
We thought this must be the way....and so off we went.
The beginning turned out to be pretty cool
[IMG][/IMG]
If you look real hard you can see some form of mountain range in the far distance...this is where we were headed. We crossed thru this FEDERAL PROPERTY without a care...well ok, I for one was picturing the inside of a Mexican jail, but we made it thru, didn't stop to take any pics tho. But the whole ride thru was very cool. We even passed some military guys who actually gave us directions. There are a lot of roads in there and they are all sectioned off, with many dead-ending roads. I think we just got lucky, the Germans claim they knew all along it was good.

Our first stop after escaping the Military maze would be lunch in....Bahia Asuncion
[IMG][/IMG]
where the ladies prepared us a delicious lunch of Fish Tacos.
mmmmm I love fish tacos (still)
[IMG][/IMG]
We rolled outta there and continued south and noticed how quickly the sun was setting. What time was it anyways? Nobody carried a watch and nobody even knew what time zone we were in! We better rethink this stopping every mile for a picture....we need shelter. And it was cool by the ocean. The Pacific Ocean!

We finally made it to the town of La Bocanna and found another cheap hotel. Well actually this one wasn't real cheap, I think it was about 5-600 pesos for the three of us. But they kinda had the monopoly on hotels in the area. I can't show the inside of our room because, well....there wasn't enough room to pull my camera out of it's case.
But we all managed and were happy to be inside...the clouds were threatening again.
The ever lovely Hotel Adriana.
[IMG][/IMG]
we left town early the next morning....cause we could! And stopped for coffee and gas at the next town down the beach. Something like Punta Abrosia or something like that. I never took any pics but riding into this town we rode along a road that would have been about 16 lanes in my country...but here it was just 16 non-lanes of hard packed dirt. Way too much fun for stopping to get a pic. I even 'tried' drifting the bike here. OK, can't drift this bike either....but it was still fun trying. ANd it was great fun to just rip around on this hard sand.

We eventually made it to San Ignacio by early afternoon. Too early to stop right? Not if yout hosts are serving up home made Margaritas. Oh my! It was the Germans first Margarita (s)!
[IMG][/IMG]
Our hosts, Teri and Gary, a Canadian couple running the bed and breakfast in town (actually just on the outskirts) make some pretty good margaritas, and we enjoyed a coupla these before unpacking and heading for dinner. An early nite tonite.
Tomorrow we cross the mountains

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Old 01-31-2010, 09:10 PM   #23
scythe08
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Looks like a blast,,,subscribed
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:37 PM   #24
Dert Gerl
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The homemade bread at San Ignacio Springs is the best!!! That place is really cute!
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:08 PM   #25
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:27 PM   #26
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Gotta love Baja . . . . .

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Old 02-01-2010, 06:20 AM   #27
gsstampeder OP
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I woke up from my most comfortable sleep yet. Those beds are amazing at the B'n'B. I took a short walk to the oasis
[IMG][/IMG]
and sat contemplating life and some bad decisions I'd made recently while watching the sun rise.
Not a bad place to reflect....
[IMG][/IMG]
But today was going to a long one and likely a difficult one as well. We had checked our maps and thought we would cross over the mountains along the Guatalupe mission 'road'. Sounds like fun.
It looked doable on the maps and we had stopped at rice and beans the day before and I asked ....?Ricardo?.....if it was doable. Although he said a lot of the roads were washed out from the hurricane we could do it on our bikes 'no problemo'....Could someone do that translation for me sometime, cause I always thought 'no problemo' meant 'no problem'.....I'm not so sure anymore.

We had a delicious breakfast (Terri does an amazing job at breakfast-you name it and it's on the table) and filled up big time. For extra gas, Terri also gave us some water jugs that she still had from the hurricane.
Their whole resort was underwater in Sept. and with the help from friends and family they were back in business and you'd never know any different. Although she did show us the water mark at the roof line of the Yoots (sp?) that stands as a reminder to how bad it was.
Good job with the restoration. A great place to stay in San Ignacio.

We made our way out of SAn Ignacio that morning after filling up with gas and goodies and took the road south heading to the laguna. We found a local and his family stranded along the road with some truck troubles. Dietmar and Thomas had them up in running in short order. Well maybe an hour or so....20-25 miles out of San Ignacio is a turn and we took it!
[IMG][/IMG]
And things will never be the same for me again....
[IMG][/IMG]
The road started getting more interesting by the minute and I started to really understand the ruggedness of Baja.
[IMG][/IMG]
I was definitely feeling it.
[IMG][/IMG]
One minute you were riding dirt and the next rocks,
[IMG][/IMG]
but one thing was certain, this road was going to get nasty.
[IMG][/IMG]
The bike started to get tired quickly and needed several 'rests' from about this point until days end....
[IMG][/IMG]
but always found the energy to play in the water!
[IMG][/IMG]
Oh yeah, things were heating up now, as in the day, me, and my bike...and in that order...
[IMG][/IMG]
The scenery was nothing short of amazing and we had lots of chances to stop and take it in while I was picking up my 'resting' bike.
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
Although I am not complaining for a second about my bike. I still am amazed it caried my sorry ass across these mountains, over roads like these. And for the most part the pics reflect the easier stuff. The real hard shit you just couldn't stop the bike....
[IMG][/IMG]
We broke free from these rocks and river beds and came out to this
[IMG][/IMG]
and I thought thank God the tuff stuff is over....
[IMG][/IMG]
this kinda riding was fun and it gave me...errr, my bike a good chance to recoup, and cool down.
[IMG][/IMG]
you can see in this pic, the road comes out of the nasty-ass canyon we just rode thru and then you have some steep gravel and sharp turns to negotiate.
This was all a first for me and I was lovin it. Big Time.
You definitely did not want to be gawking at the scenery while you were riding, so we took lotsa breaks to gawk....
[IMG][/IMG]
But how could you not, being surrounded by this was so amazingly beautiful...and also a bit intimidating.
Were we going slow and we had a long way to go still before we got to the other side. Something tells me I should have packed more cookies. mmmm cookies
We coasted down roads like this to conserve fuel.
[IMG][/IMG]
We were also starting to lose daylite....when we hit a t-interection that was NOT on our maps. Now what?
We stopped and tried to figure out which way to go....we chose the wrong way!
[IMG][/IMG]

And eventually came to the end of the road
And found a family living here...wtf?
[IMG][/IMG]
We asked them if we could camp here until morning, they said si
So we did....
[IMG][/IMG]
We also asked if there were any mountain lions and sadly we got the same answer - SI
But I really didn't care. I was so tired from picking my bike up 50-60 times that all I could think about was laying down. Until I remembered I had cookies...
But even they would have to wait until morning. My back and shoulders were inventing new ways to tell me how old I was. All i could do was open my trusty bottle of Advil and down a few of those....and hope in the morning I could move!

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Old 02-01-2010, 06:39 AM   #28
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awesome!
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:41 AM   #29
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Vicariously I am riding with U. Go man go.
Thanks for the report!!
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:29 AM   #30
Reddemon
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Fabulous!
Thanks for sharing your awesome ride!
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