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Old 02-01-2010, 09:56 AM   #31
Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Apr 2006
Location: Bakersfield CA & Sammamish WA
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Loving your RR. I read a lot these and some how yours has just the right balance of photos and text. Just the right amount of knowledge/preparation and naiveté/adventure. Like the positive "can do" attitude as well. Best wishes that the situation back home improves.
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Old 02-01-2010, 01:23 PM   #32
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Location: City of the Angels
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Having fun with this RR

I think right about now you're in the mountains heading across to Loreto... and that's a tough route. I've heard it gets very narrow on the high cliffs and the trail is extremely difficult. Good luck and look forward to more.
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Old 02-01-2010, 03:09 PM   #33
gsstampeder OP
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Thanks for the good words. This trip was huge for me and to be able to share it with others who can appreciate it is almost therapeutic. Not to mention being able to relive it bump by bump....

I woke up the following morning way before the sun rose and it was cold. And I was hungry. Cookies were definitely not going to give me the energy that I'd need to get to Mulege....hopefully at some point today? I was also very low on water. I had drank most of it the previous day. I only took enough for one day because....we really thought this whole trek over the mountains could be done in a day. HA! This could be trouble. I know staying hydrated in this envirornment is pretty important....and I didn't have enough water already, and we hadn't even started our days ride yet.
I got up and got a fire going. I think it was about 4AM, but that's what happens when you go to bed at 6PM
I was surprised that I was moving as well as I was too. Not bad for an old guy
My boots were soaked from the day before and I thought I'd dry them out as best as I could. It felt good to soak them in the crossings yesterday when I was hot and sweaty, now...not so much. I must have been pretty ripe smelling that day
So after cookies and gatorade we were set to head out looking for Mulege,
with the sun rising on the mountains that surrounded us
And before long we were right back in the thick of it.
I did much better today and my bike was much happier for it. Staying uprite, without so many lay-downs, was good for everyone. I still dropped it a bunch, but not like the previous day. That was freakin brutal!
Some of the roads were actually freshly graded...we did pass a grader the day before and we all wondered....? Huh? But perhaps they keep it there for the hurricanes. So the few that live out there can escape...
....of course pure speculation, jus sayin...
We were still a long ways from anywhere and we couldn't really do another nite in the tents without eating....could we?
And the worst thing, was not knowing where the road went....or come to think about it, that might have been the best thing
We definitely had a long haul ahead of us
And the roads are narrow
And the shoulders......abrupt
But this pretty much tells the tale. I was on top of the world, well as long as I didn't think too much about anything else.
And finally......the pièce de resistance
Mission de Guadalupe 1721-1795
Now I gotta say, I had no idea what to expect from a mission so far removed from, well everything. And it hadn't been used in a coupla hundred years, but, I expected more. Maybe it was our buildup to getting here, but wtf, we were here and we saw it's time to get outta here and get something to eat. And drink!
mmmm a cold beer sure would taste nice right now!!!! Not to mention, a plate of fish tacos!
So we ride....
Now I know this little ravine does not look like too big a deal from the pic but let me tell you...
When you ride up to it, it looks impossible. Especially on a loaded f650. The Germans 'instructed' me to just get the front tire down in it resting on the up side...and then give it gas and 'you'l just pop right out, no problemo' - there's that word again.
Ok, so I do that, but the rear tire is still not yet in the ravine and my feet are not touching, so before I fall over I hit it. And i pop out alright. My fuckin bike is airborn. But somehow it lands without something breaking, and I'm still upright, so I keep the gas on and drive a bit further along until I realize I'm still holding my breath and I need air.
I wait for the Germans, who were filming this comedy show, to catch up.
They were impressed, needless to say

But there was still more tuff riding ahead....
Finally we stop to assess the situation. The road was getting more difficult the further along we went and I was starting to drop my bike more frequently. Funny how that works. As your energy drops-so does your bike. Well at least in my case.
With the road starting to deteriorate quickly, Thomas, who has yet to drop his bike, takes a leisurely stroll down the road to see if it is passable
It was not!
Which meant that I had that cute little ravine to cross again - backwards!
We finally made it out of the rocks and ravines and rivers and began riding some nice sandy roads.
This was a treat to ride, but I had not drank anything for a few hours and although I have no pics I was totally exhausted and dehydrated. We pull up to a ranch looking for directions. Without fully understanding spanish we thought he was telling us that we needed to go back over the mountains, when all he was really saying (we figured this out later) was we had to go around this next one. But it was all on nice easy sandy roads. I was happy. And thirsty.
I asked the rancher for water and drank it! I didn't get sick until the next day
But I didn't die!
Dietmar had some battery issues.

We were close to Mulege now and we didn't stop for anymore pics. All I could think about was getting some fish tacos at esquipale, or whatever it's called in Mulege.
We pulled into town, three very happy, hungry and thirsty campers.
And happy to be on pavement. Well sorta....

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Old 02-01-2010, 07:47 PM   #34
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Now that's adventure! Can't wait for the next instalment.
Rock on,
Ride Reports >
Click on:
-Now: Fly/ride - Panama to Alaska & pts between.
-2009 Colorado & West Fest
-Baja 2009 from Canada
"Take time, because time will eventually take you"! (and you never know just how much yer gonna get )
Let's ride!
07 Suzuki V-Strom 650 with ABS for long distance adventure & Dualsport
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:30 PM   #35
ktm's "the tourist"
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this rr has lots of good pics and stories.....

thanks for taking us along.
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Old 02-01-2010, 09:51 PM   #36
Obviously I'm bored.
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Location: N. Texas
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Learned quite a bit from this thread.

I ride ORANGE bike's and a Gasser...

Disclaimer: Don't take me seriously, because I don't....
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:22 PM   #37
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I can just close my eyes and imagine...
It's just good clean dirt.

Video Antics
Where am I Riding?
Baja Blitz Yard Sale
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:32 PM   #38
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riding down the gravel road on our way to Gonzaga, I kinda thought to myself, 'I was expecting a much rougher ride'. Hmmmm....
Did I mention that I found the charger for my camera? And I would have taken more pics on the road to Gonzaga....but my hands were shaking too much. The road definitely got rougher and tougher. I eventually tried the sand along the side and after, ummmm, some getting used to...I was able to buzz along quite comfortably. Well at least I thought so....
We made it to Gonzaga and were treated with some cold beers and fish tacos. Mmmmm fish tacos.

Great pics,,,,,,,,, I got some sorta like that. A year before.
Military Hummers-

Me on the FJR-

Co Co's

Dern,,, can't post pics even if I try to manually wrap [IMG] tags around it??? The pop up as pics when I add em to script but when I save,,,, just links.
Places visited on two-
Endeavor to Persevere
Blue Skies Coming

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Old 02-02-2010, 02:36 AM   #39
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Glad you made it to Mulege....

Right about now you're probably staying in a hilltop room at the Hotel Mulege... or possibly at the nicer and more deluxe Hacienda de Mulege with nice pool to lay out by. Their margaritas are "way no problema"!!!
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:52 AM   #40
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Wow... I'm thinking that's a little more adventure than can stand. ....the riding part not being 'no problemo', but the lack of food and water is 'no bueno'.

Sounds like: "...... 'no problemo'....Could someone do that translation for me sometime, cause I always thought 'no problemo' meant 'no problem'...." May mean (in their context) if you have a burro with plenty of food and water !

Regardless... Thank-you. Great story. Your life will likely benefit from this soul searching adventure. .
"Our lives can be spent carrying out actions that we hope will lead us to a greater sense of purpose, accomplishment and meaning, but all these are secondary to the need to feel alive." - AntiHero ADV Rider
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Old 02-02-2010, 01:46 PM   #41
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Location: Truckee, CA
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WOW! This is one of the best ADVENTURE rides I've read yet! Hardly any real plans and just going with the flow! I love it, it's absolutely inspiring! Good luck with everything...
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Old 02-02-2010, 02:40 PM   #42
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No fluff just s8t to the point. i am really enjoying this RR. Thanks Ben
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:34 PM   #43
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Location: Kalifornia, Alaska, Arizona
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No Problimo means -- No Problem (for me if YOU are going).

I have found driving instructions in towns goes like this:

Go 3 blocks, turn right and Ask.

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Old 02-02-2010, 05:31 PM   #44
gsstampeder OP
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Thx again....I'm excited all over again. The Germans just sent me their pics.
Thx Didi! Thx Thomas!
I don't know why, but their pics seem better then mine. Must be some German technology thing....

To backtrack a bit...and for your viewing pleasure
The German's pics....of our crossing
these roads were tricky because the scenery was so spectacular if you weren't careful you could drive off the edge....
The road serpentined around the edge of the mountain
I think they kept their distance from me to avoid being run in to...or over!
You just never get tired of riding roads like this
Ya just gotta keep focused
And maybe do a lil burnout once in awhile
This whole mountain crossing adventure was one that I will never forget.
I mean c'mon
This is the home of our hosts during our stay in the mountains. We were so removed from anyplace close to civilization it made you wonder how they could do it. This was as remote as remote gets. They had a small child and a teenage son and the husband and wife. They really didn't even acknowledge our existence once we started upacking. They wandered back to their home while we set up camp in the donkey's corral. Never saw any donkey just his....pies
If you remember I had said the road that day was extremely hard (for me) and I was too spent to capture many pics. Well the Germans didn't seem to be as spent....
So for anyone wondering if the f650 can do shit like this, I say YUP!
But I would sure like to try it on 450 too....
Must remember to lift feet during river runs....or else dry your boots that nite!
These rocks can get tricky if you're not careful....
and then if you're too careful.....
But they can be a lot of fun too
and then not so much fun as work....
Lotsa work!
But so rewarding too!
And sometimes scary....
Even with top notch German instructors....
until you start to 'pop out'...Yeee-Haaaaw
But the end result is as expected...
M u s t f i n d s h a d e !!!

I tip my hat (or helmet) to Dietmar and Thomas. My German friends!
If not for them I most likely would never have chose this crossing.
And without their help, most definitely, I would never have made it across alive, .
Never once did they make me feel shitty for slowing them down and they both helped pick my bike up countless times when I had nothing left in the tank.
Unbelievable! You guys are the best!

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Old 02-02-2010, 05:45 PM   #45
I'm better now.
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Great ride and report. Really enjoying all of your adventure.
I ain't a going without my hog, my gun, my whisky and my Bible.

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