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Old 02-04-2010, 10:24 AM   #61
gsstampeder OP
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Location: Wandering
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[QUOTE=G-Tex]I had the same issue with "excessive tire wear" in Baja, but then I started thinking that tire life is usually inversely proportionate to the amount of fun that is being had...

Baja Motorsport is a JOKE!!! They are in such a good location for helping adventurers, making a new market, and becoming part of the ADV scene, but they do NOTHING for people coming overland from El Norte...they are totally set up for MILKING money out of the oligarchs who are visiting from points afar and want to own a BMW in Mexico...infuriating.

On a better note...GREAT RIDE REPORT! My F650 DAKAR is currently stored in Cabo after a late November/early December trip; I will be returning soon to retrieve ride report from that trip is indicated in my signature.


I hear ya G-Tex - they should definitely be set up to handle at least fresh tires. The guy even told me he gets lots of guys coming in needing tires....but....??? I left shaking my head too.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:02 PM   #62
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Keep the RR's great.
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Change of Plans '09: Cabo Edition

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Old 02-04-2010, 02:22 PM   #63
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Mcnut....the name of that beach was puerto almeja it is just south of bahia san juanico. hope that helps you find it.
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Old 02-04-2010, 03:03 PM   #64
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So I was on Santispec for the nite, problem was I woke to this...
which turned to this
How could I leave? I met my Neighbour Rafik, a book editor from Canada who had the luxury of working from anyplace he chose. And he chose Baja. More specifically, Santispec! Lucky bastard....he was living out of an older Westphalia and could not have been more happier...and more content.
So I ended up staying another nite. Wish I could have stayed longer....
I took the highway back to San Ignacio and then some Mulege 500 track that detoured off the highway for a few hours. That was fun! Nothing but sand and solitude. My tires were almost completely worn at this point, but the sand was not too bad and it worked out well
Just before you come back to the highway (I think) although I may be a bit off on that...
I think this may have been at the pics are all screwed up now foe sequencing
I ended up in Guerro Negro again and stayed here
I left early in the morning with the intent on riding back to Gonzaga Bay but somehow, someway, I missed the damn turnoff. Don't ask me how but I did. I realized it just shy of Catavinia. Ahh Crap!!!! I pulled into the hotel on the highway, I think it's called Dessert Inn now, it used to be La Pinta, and I was having a beer deciding what to do when a coupla trucks rolled in all geared up. They had everything....and only two bikes. I thought yeesh, these guys come prepared! Turns out they were part of the support group for the Hellride Team, a group of pro riders down to cut some new trails and rip up some existing ones. They had everything alright - including a small plane to film the riders. No shit! Anyways, they got out and seen me all geared up in my charlie suit and we started chatting. I told them I had missed my turn to Gonzaga and I had no headlite for riding past dark...'could I still make it'? They assured me I could if I hauled ass....or I could hang around and they could fix my headlite. Really? I thought about it and I decided to 'haul ass' to Gonzaga, so I quickly finished my beer and set off. I got a few miles down the road and realized I had no provisions in case 'something happened' and I was forced to camp in the dessert, so I decided to turn around and head back to Cantavinia. I did not want to 'haul ass' anywhere, not at this point. I knew the road into Gonzaga was pretty rough and I wanted to take my time. Good choice. I hung around and the boys got the tools out and had my headlite MacGuyvered back in place 'no problemo'. Thanks KC. I went in to eat and have a coupla beers and when I came out....a freakin flat tire was waiting for me. Great. Ok, my back had been bothering me for a few days...Ok for a long time and as I started to investigate my leak my pain was evident and KC came back to me asking if I was capable. I told him I was, but he knew better. The guy was a bike tech and he could see my obvious struggle. I could barely bend over let alone pull my tire off. He 'asked' if he could assist. How could I say no?
A pic of KC 'assisting'
KC, I owe you big time!!!!

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Old 02-04-2010, 03:52 PM   #65
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I kept thinking how lucky I was to have missed my turn...or to have decided to not haul ass. My back was unbelievably sore and a nite in the dessert in the tent with no food or water would not have been fun. So I got 'lucky' yet again.
Some pics of the hellride team....and my new friend KC
It was quite something watching and listening to 23 bikes come roaring into a hotel parking lot. Quite inspiring really. God I wish I had started doing this 20 (or 30) years earlier. But also realize how fortunate I am to be doing it now.
I wished I could have stayed at the hotel that nite but at $90USD it was just too rich for my budget.
So I found some cheaper accomodation a ways up the road
I met the boys back at the hotel in the morning. Confession time....
They had all just finished breakfast and were meandering around getting ready to head out when I arrived. All I wanted was a cup of coffee, so I went in to the restaurant and poured myself a cup. The hotel figured, I guess because of my gear, that I was part of 'the team' My coffee was free!
I rode with the support trucks to Gonzaga and waved goodbye as they made their way to San Felipe to meet the riders.
Thx for ALL the help....and the free coffee!
These guys had more gear then a pro hockey team on a three month road trip!
How does one miss a sign like this?
road to Gonzaga...chapalla wash?
Panniers, complete with my Hellride sticker! I am kinda choked about one thing concerning this trip. My whole way to the tip and back I did not remember or could not find a freakin 'Baja' sticker for my panniers.
So now I gotta go back....
I bought gas in Cantavinia but only a gallon. I knew I would/could fill up in Gonzaga 'Cept when I got there the gas station was closed. They ran out!
I pulled into Alfonsina's and was the only one there. Really? It was early tho and by nite fall the place had a few more guests....which was nice.
I had met some riders in Guerro Negro staying at the same hotel as me and they showed up around dark. They were pretty serious riders. I would have liked to have followed them out to B of LA, but knew I'd never keep up.
My last Gonzaga Bay sunrise.
I really gotta learn to stay up later so I stop waking up in the middle of the nite.

I don't know what it is about the sunrises in Baja but I always feel slightly robbed if, for whatever reason, I miss one. It didn't matter that I was in the middle of the dessert or in the mountains or just sitting on a beach....the sunrises here are amazing. For me, I think it has something to do with getting the most out of each day. The days are short here and the little time you have to enjoy them is precious.....kind of like life in many ways.
Yup, this morning I did a lot of reflecting

Sure is nice beach though....

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Old 02-04-2010, 06:40 PM   #66
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mmmmmm BAJA........

Thanks for taking us along

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Old 02-04-2010, 06:57 PM   #67
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Excellent report. I was there this time last year. Man, we missed a lot of cool stuff!

Good-on-ya for taking the time to explore. We simply did not have the time. Now, we have to go back as well! We also could not find any Baja steekers

Keep it coming.
"I am learning, as I make my way through my first continent, that it is remarkably easy to do things, and much more frightening to contemplate them."

~ Ted Simon, Jupiter's Travels ~
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:28 PM   #68
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Love some of those beach shots!!

Esp this..
Made me laugh out loud.......

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Old 02-05-2010, 03:45 AM   #69
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Wow! just Wow!

Awesome report. You make that bmw look a lot more capable than I thought it was.

I need to do this someday. Thanks for sharing.
2005 XT-225 (mine)
2003 TTR-125L (daughter's)
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:09 AM   #70
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I left Gonzaga Bay the next morning feeling a bit sad. My journey was coming to an end and I wasn't ready to face the reality that waited for me at home. But I knew it was time. I was up 'early' that morning and walked the beach for my last time. I sat and watched the sun rise....God I'll miss this!
I ate a good breakfast, they make such good racnho huervos. I waited around as long as I could hoping the Pemex staion would be open and I could fill up. I thought there was another Pemex in Puertocitos, but I couldn't remember for sure, and even if there was would they have gas???? I said my goodbye's and rode away....the Pemex in Gonzaga was still closed. Shit! I hoped I had enough to reach Puertocitos. I stuck to the side road as much as possible, the sand was fun to ride in....[IMG][/IMG]
much nicer then the rocks and washboard
Not that I'm complaining about the rocks and washboard....I'd be soon missing this when I hit the paved road
I love this kind of road...
and I stopped often for pics and to prolong the inevitable
Before I knew it I was back on the paved section and my dirt riding was done. I hate pavement!
If anyone is thinking about riding Baja they better get their plans in order soon...cause the crews are working far too fast for my liking. I noticed how far they had progressed in just the few weeks since I was here last...heading south instead of north.
I stayed in San Felipe my last two nites...I had started for Mexicali but turned back, opting to stay my last few days in san Felipe instead.
I tried to find a way to ride some of this flat sand but I got stuck everytime I tried. My rear tire was completely void of tread and it just wasn't working. And I was tired....

While I was staying at La Damiana Inn, Gerardo (I thought it was spelt Herardo) gave me a book on the Baja Mil to look at. A friend of his, who took part in the race, had given it to him as a gift. Fascinating book with some great pics of the race from it's inception to it's current format. But there was an inscription that I would like to share that made a lot of sense to me, in part because of what I was dealing with personally.


I asked Geradro if I could take this picture and share it's message here. He told me yes, so I am.

To everyone who have followed along and wrote in their comments, I say thank you for your encouraging words and those that have just followed along I say thanks for allowing me to share my adventure. As I mentioned before it was therapeutic for me to sit and relive my journey....bump by bump.

Viva la Baja

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Old 02-05-2010, 10:33 AM   #71
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Nicely done!.............Thanks

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Old 02-05-2010, 11:44 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by gsstampeder
Somehow I thought I had more pics of the ride into Agua Verde, but I guess not. I will just say that it is definitely worthwhile...
until you reach this -
A perfect place to reflect, solve all the worlds problems....or just drink beer and swim naked in the ocean
In about 1990, I spent 3 days on a Moorings charter sailboat at Agua Verde with some friends. An extremely beautiful place that we had a great time at, except for the strong northerly storm that blew through one night. It blew 50 mph right across the beach between the mainland and the big rock. We dragged anchor and had to set a second one from the dingy at 2 AM. Two other boats dragged also.

Did you see the little cemetery up on the hillside directly west of the beach to the rock? Very old - people have been there a lot of years. The girlfriend and I had some fun up there.

Thanks for the memories with your pictures and good ride report.
Jay (formerly of Calgary)
"The Ride is the Reason"
1998 Suzuki DR350SE Bearcub
1995 BMW R1100GS Redbear
2001 Suzuki DRZ400S Yellowbear
1981 Suzuki GS850G
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Old 02-05-2010, 12:32 PM   #73
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Good stuff, sstampeder

Originally Posted by gsstampeder
To everyone who have followed along and wrote in their comments, I say thank you for your encouraging words and those that have just followed along I say thanks for allowing me to share my adventure. As I mentioned before it was therapeutic for me to sit and relive my journey....bump by bump.
Viva la Baja
Ratman.......Pete .... My Solo Continental Divide Ride
....and of course, Luck beats good...
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:51 PM   #74
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Very nice.

I did the trip a few years ago and can't wait to get back.

Buy the way, we found a motorcycle shop in Lorato owned by a great guy who worked for the immigration office. My friend had to get a new front tire and he had a small selection (mostly motocross). Ended up changing it in front of the immigration office and got a lot of strange looks.

Again, great report.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:40 PM   #75
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Thanks for taking the time to write this up in such detail. I'm headed down at the end of the month for two weeks, and will likely stay at La Damiana due to your recommendation, as well as try to get to those nearby falls.

Its striking to notice how things fall into place even when they seem like they've hit the fan -- and you had a lot of close calls. Makes one think that the universe is a supportive place. Sounds like you had the adventure of a lifetime... you earned it!
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