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Old 07-06-2014, 06:08 PM   #136
One Less Harley OP
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Elco High temp valve guides from motobins along with the Swiss Intervalves.

Head has gouges in it hence the replacement head needed.

I've found some head prospects, but can I assume if the casting numbers are the same as mine then the heads are the same. Heads are from an R80, but the year is to early according to the micro fiche.

I'll be doing the other head to and replacing the intervalves with BMW valves.
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Old 07-06-2014, 07:13 PM   #137
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Sorry about the bad news, I have the same guides and valves in my G/S...

You might enter your experience here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=825135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 07-06-2014, 08:22 PM   #138
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Here's a shot of the left head, what do you guys think, too rich??? The spark plug wasn't too white.



does anyone know If I can go by the casting numbers on the head. I've found a couple of heads from 1978 R80's with matching casting numbers. Can I buy these and just do the valve seats also?????
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:32 AM   #139
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Ouch. Sorry, man. I hope the breakdown story associated with those pictures wasn't too bad.

If it makes you feel any better my starter gave up the ghost after spending over an hour in shut-down-the-highway construction traffic. 1300 miles round trip for the weekend and had to get a tow for the last 15. Got in at 4:30 this morning just in time to take a shower and go to work. I'd be more lucid after downing a 12 pack.
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Old 07-08-2014, 05:46 PM   #140
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scored a set of heads..THANKS LEE303, same year bike, same casting numbers and FREE!!!!

I noticed my cylinder and pistons were both marked "B", A,B, and C are used for each. Is it ok to use B cylinders and C pistons????

B cylinder spec- 84.795-84.805
B piston Spec- 84.775
C piston spec - 84.785
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:22 PM   #141
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I have been making slow progress. Sent the heads off to Carl (flying teapot). Where he will work them over with all new valves, seats, springs, guides and collars.

I had bought at set of "B" pistons which didn't look to bad, but they were worn to much as I want piston to bore clearance as new. .03-.04 mm clearance, max is .08mm but I want new spec.

I decided to send the cylinders off to Millennium Technologies to have them checked out and the nickasil reapplied. Coating can be applied thick enough to have the jugs brought from the larger "B" spec to the smaller "A" spec.

The valve ended up nicking the cylinder.



I wasn't sure if the damage could be repaired, but it is. Millennium Tech checked the used pistons and one was worn to out of spec. New "A" type pistons were ordered from Motobins, OEM BMW. I am starting to shy away from Motobins from what I've been hearing through the grape vine...unless they specifically say a part is BMW...that does not mean the same supplier as BMW either. Which they will mention quite often.



I could have gone with new 1000cc barrels and pistons for less, but I want the 800 cc, jugs, for the lower compression and smoothness. As I like the 800 cc engine and it's smoothness. Wasn't sure the 1000 cc kit would be the same. Power is fine as is for me.
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:13 PM   #142
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Mellineum Tech sized the "B" cylinders to "A" spec to match the "A" spec pistons. Piston to bore clearance of .036mm (new spec .03-.04mm) The cylinder bore of each is 84.796 mm ( BMW "A" spec range 84.795-84.805mm). The new pistons measured 84.76mm. They were stamped 84.765mm. I felt it was best to send the pistons to Mellineum Tech so they could measure the pistons instead of me doing that, since that's what they do. Total bill was about $488 plus shipping. Price was a little higher due to nicks in the bore.

Pistons came with wrist pins, circlips and rings. So the rings were removed and end gaps checked. All was within spec, so no ring sizing needed!!! I went with "A" spec pistons as that is all Motobins had, and the BMW dealers wanted $363 EACH!!!!! The Motobins pistons were BMW pistons and only $125 each. Strange thing is that other pistons were substantially more expensive!!

Note- Mellineum Tech will remove all metal components of the cylinders and won't reinstall. One stud stripped out and they repair with a helicoil ( about $27). I took this time to go ahead and install stainless pushrod tubes, also supplied by motobins. Again way cheaper at Motobins than the dealer. OD was the same as the original tubes and installation wasn't a problem.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:11 PM   #143
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Awesome! Now onto so assembly pics.I'm learning in hopes that I will stumble upon a diamond in the rough.
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:11 PM   #144
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I got he bike together last weekend. Checked the ring gaps and they were right within spec. Proceeded to install the stainless pushrod tubes without to much trouble. I heated the cylinders and drifted them in place to the approximate depth of the old ones. I installed the push rod collar to be about 2mm below the surface of the base gasket. This is where the old ones were. Note- on Snowbums page he recommends 5mm, but I figured it would be best to go back to the original location...more on that!!!

Assembly was very easy as everything is just right in front of you. Just try and keep things clean and make sure to install circlips in the right orientation. pistons were already installed in the jugs exposing the wrist pin hole. I put assembly lube on the orings and pushrod seals and things just slid into place. lined the rod up with the piston and installed the wrist pin. slid the cylinder down then installed the head gasket and head, inserted the pushrods. Then installed the new used uprated valve train, ( dimples on rocker shafts face up and away from the engine). Torqued the heads in three stages, 15, 20 and 25 ft lbs. Holding my breath while doing so!!! Next adjusted the valves to .06 and .08in. Finished installing the carbs and exhaust, then took it for a test ride. 100 miles latter I pulled the spark plugs and electrodes were light tan with the round portion of the plugs dark and dry. The bike ran very well and smooth. I only rejetted the carbs back to stock configuration and never resynchronized.

I inspected for leaks and noticed one of the pushrod tube seals had split, but wasn't leaking. So new gaskets were ordered as the pushrod tubes need to be seated deeper in the cylinders. Note- w/ the original tubes one of the replaced seals had split after a relatively short time. I have since removed one side to seat the pushrod tubes where the ring is 4mm below the base gasket. I reused the old seals hopping they weren't compressed to far to seal. For the other side I'm still waiting for the pushrod tubes seals to arrive.







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Old 09-07-2014, 03:56 PM   #145
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I spent some major bucks redoing the top end this time, could have saved some money going with a 1000 set of jugs and pistons, but I wanted to keep to the low compression 800cc bore.

about $700 labor to rework the heads, new valves, seats, guides, springs and keepers, replacement heads were free!!!
$195 for pistons, rings and wrist pins
$460- about- for the cylinders to be repaired and Nikasil reapllied
$60- misc gaskets.
$53 for stainless pushrod tubes.
$140 for new style valve train.
$1,650- total, but probably more. as I wasted money buying another set of used pistons and jugs, but since I wanted to get the cylinder and piston clearances back to stock specs, it was decided to get the original jugs reworked along with new pistons...and I may by another set of those pistons as they are OEM BMW , but priced right.
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Old 09-07-2014, 04:11 PM   #146
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OLH,

You say the up rated rocker arms are installed with the dimple up and away from the engine? In the pic it looks like the dimple is up all right but is set inboard not out? Lens compression?

Looks good. Congratulations.
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:39 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by disston View Post
OLH,

You say the up rated rocker arms are installed with the dimple up and away from the engine? In the pic it looks like the dimple is up all right but is set inboard not out? Lens compression?

Looks good. Congratulations.
yes you are correct...I caught that before buttoning it up and rereading the Chilton manual, plus double checking at Snowbums site!!! good eye! Dimple goes closest to the rocker arm pedestal nut, not as pictured

these rocker arms had the nylon like shim plus metal shims to adjust end float of rockers. Before the bike was rattly, it seems a little less so now, but not completely quiet.
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Old 09-08-2014, 03:56 PM   #148
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You're doing it wrong, Richard. When things blow up you're supposed to use it as an excuse to replace them with fancy new things--like 9.5:1, 980cc Omega pistons.
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Old 09-08-2014, 05:47 PM   #149
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I didn't want a high compression motor, prefer the one that burns kerosene
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Old 12-24-2014, 08:29 AM   #150
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