Airhead Engine Raising Kit

[Stagehand]

http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fic...=011974-061976


Just saw this on Max's website. Keeping the SA pivot point the same, how does it looks inside the frame, tilted? Does it ease the shaft angle? Anybody try this yet?

[SOLO LOBO]

Almost looks like it raises the back of the engine, or I am looking at it wrong!

[Hawk Medicine]

Thats the Raceline part. It raises the engine at both ends but at the front more than at the back.

Its the easy way to accomplish this:

[jtwind]

Noticed that today myself. Wondered what the scoop was. Neat that there are still folks coming up with this kind of stuff,

[Beater]

Nice ... then no modification is necessary to the swing arm ... right? Just a bigger shock. Not bad.

[birdman]

I bought this kit about 3 years ago from Moto-Isreal and its still sitting on the bench. Do your research first. They provided no instructions for installation initially. The kit pushes the engine fwd and will decrease spline engagement, increasing rate of wear. Additionally you have to drill and tap the thru holes in your engine case. Not as straight forward as you might think.
For what it's worth I think the traditional method of lifting a motor is far superior. For street applications, I don't see the benefit of raising a motor anyways. Trackside, it's amazing what it can do for cornering speed and handling.

I will ship my kit for a lot less $ than that to any interested parties. Ping me for details.

[kixtand]

Originally Posted by birdman

I bought this kit about 3 years ago from Moto-Isreal and its still sitting on the bench. Do your research first. They provided no instructions for installation initially. The kit pushes the engine fwd and will decrease spline engagement, increasing rate of wear. Additionally you have to drill and tap the thru holes in your engine case. Not as straight forward as you might think.
For what it's worth I think the traditional method of lifting a motor is far superior. For street applications, I don't see the benefit of raising a motor anyways. Trackside, it's amazing what it can do for cornering speed and handling.

I will ship my kit for a lot less $ than that to any interested parties. Ping me for details.

Hmmmmm, pm sent.

[BubbaZanetti]

lol, saw this in my news letter yesterday and thought "cool, but not 300 plus bucks cool". another overpriced BMW farkle.

[birdman]

Kix,PM sent

Anyone got a Brielle (sp$) oil cooler? (Sump spacer with thru tubes). Just missed out on a couple on ebay recently so I know they are out there.

I know Vech is selling reproductions but more than I want to spend at present time.

[Hawk Medicine]

Originally Posted by birdman

I bought this kit about 3 years ago from Moto-Isreal and its still sitting on the bench. Do your research first. They provided no instructions for installation initially. The kit pushes the engine fwd and will decrease spline engagement, increasing rate of wear. Additionally you have to drill and tap the thru holes in your engine case. Not as straight forward as you might think.

If I'm not mistaken, the engine raising kit moves both the engine and the transmission forward and at an angle. That puts more weight on the front tire, which can be a good thing.

The solution to hooking everything up is that is to have an extension plate machined to take up the space between the trans output and the drive shaft, replace the standard bolts with longer ones and then modify a regular boot to cover the joint. In the case of my modded frame, the extension plate will need to be 3/4 inch thick The shaft to output angle is actually improved over stock and there will be less wear to moving parts.

There are several of ways to get to the same place but all of them involve creative thinking, asking questions and being willing to listen to the answers. Real racing parts seldom come with instructions. You get the parts, well packed and in a plastic bag, along with their latest catalog and an invoice. Motoren Israel fully expects that if you're doing something like relocating an engine, that you know what you're doing.

As far as the benefits of raising the engine goes, I used to ride with a very fast bunch and there were a few times when one or another of us scraped a valve cover on an off camber turn. Boy, that'll get your attention! Last summer when I railed through the mountains in Colorado, I had the old RS laid over far enough that the Brown side stand touched down and I could easily see that the jug was next. An inch or two of leeway would have been nice but then I might have been rolling even faster and ended up dead! Hmmm...

Raising/moving the engine is also a pretty neat thing to do on a repliracer style cafe bike and it's something that you don't see very often. Thats exactly what I'm going to do with this R-100RS frame, as soon as I find a cheap R-100 doner bike:



The sub frame has been shaved and beefed up and the main frame has had the horn tabs shaved, a /6 style horn mount fabbed, braced headstock, engine moved up and forward, braces at the swing arm mounting area and the lock junk removed and filled.

Except for the engine relocation, thats the same stuff that I did to the frame on this bike, so I know it'll work.:



At current exchange rates your parts are worth about $274 + SH ordered from MI, so you should be able to sell em real quick!

birdman: I have the cooler that you're looking for. PM me.

[Stagehand]

it would make sense for an offroad bike, too, eh? easing the driveshaft angle, and all as well as getting a little ground clearance?

[mykill]

I will have some pictures next week as I am installing the Race Line kit in my AHRMA bike right now. You need a 14.5mm drill to drill out the case and a 16x1.5 tap. The case was an awkward shape to place squarely in the drill press, so I attempted a hand drill. I ended up buying a drill bit smaller than the 14.5 to step into the final size because the drill grabbed badly and was impossible to control.
It is a slick kit and the instructions are good enough.
I still have to pull out my old engine and do some fitting before it is all final.
Plan on spending another $90 on drills and tap. Or PM me since I have the stuff already.
It seems like a good solution for those who do not have the tooling to do it the right way. I will be curious how exhaust bits line up when it is all installed.

[skrub]

This is the project I've been working on this past year.

[skrub]

[skrub]