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Old 10-04-2004, 08:11 AM   #1
Gauss OP
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KLR Radiator Fan Switch

I just picked up a used KLR650 a couple of weeks ago...it looks like my Radiator switch is burned out, so the fan does not kick on...I looked up the part on Ron Ayers and it looks like it will set me back $61 bucks...A buddy suggested that there might be a cheaper standard replacement out there that I might pick up from an auto-parts store...Anybody know if there is make/model of auto that used a similar switch, or a cheaper replacement for it?
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Old 10-04-2004, 02:22 PM   #2
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Have you checked to make sure that the fan actually works? Like jump 12 volts to it to see if it spins.. Mine's gotten bound up on the housing before..
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Old 10-04-2004, 03:53 PM   #3
Achtung
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Won't spend sixty bucks on a switch for your bike? KLR owners really are cheap.
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Old 10-04-2004, 04:45 PM   #4
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Pull the wire off the switch at the bottom of the radiator. Stick the connector (key off) to a fin on the cylinder. If the fan turns on, the switch could be bad. If it doesn't come on, look at the fuse or relay. My switch isn't bad but something isn't working right so I made a manual switch from my fan to a ground for about $7. The fan still connects to the switch as usual but I T-ed off from that wire to ground and installed a toggle switch- you just have to remember to turn the switch off when you park I guess I could run a little LED on the switch, too, but that's too much effort and I have awesome bump-start technique.

Dysco- cheapskate KLR owner.
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Old 10-04-2004, 04:59 PM   #5
Frank Warner
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As Dysco says - pull the wire off the switch - botttom left of radiator area - then earth the wire. If the fan works then it is probably the switch. Other wise teh fuse and relay are on the right ... at least that how it was on someone elses' bike.
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Old 10-05-2004, 03:27 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysco
Pull the wire off the switch at the bottom of the radiator. Stick the connector (key off) to a fin on the cylinder. If the fan turns on, the switch could be bad.
Not true. If you ground the wire to the frame with the key off the fan should turn on. If it doesn't, you have a problem.

Check the fuse. There is on in line near the fan if I recall correctly.

Also, same money this way. I haven't confirmed this, but I understand that the relay for the kick stand safety switch is the same as the fan relay. YOu don't need a kick stand safety switch on the KLR.

Great bike. Enjoy.
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Old 10-05-2004, 06:50 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltar
Not true. If you ground the wire to the frame with the key off the fan should turn on. If it doesn't, you have a problem.
Isn't that the same as what DYSCO said?
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Old 10-05-2004, 10:30 AM   #8
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Thanks for the replies.

True, 60 bucks is not much, but if I can get something for 15, and pick it up locally why not? There always seems to be a cheap generic replacement or fix-it for over priced OEM parts...(I picked up the last of the local police bikes that were being sold on the cheap...the less money I toss into this, the more I'll have for my cafe project ) I checked the wiring, fuse, relay and fan, they all seem to be good, and when I ground the wire to the switch the fan does comes on...Guess I'll just bite the bullet and order a new one....

@Dysco, I was thinking about doing the same thing, using a switch as a manual override...where did you end up mounting it? Did you make a dash or something? I was thinking of using a project box to try and keep water away from the switch, but there doesn't seem to be a good place to mount one....
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Old 10-05-2004, 02:10 PM   #9
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My radiator had the same issue meaning there's a wire somewhere that got clipped or something if two of the bikes had the same issue. When the cops took their lights off, they clipped ALL the wires and Aurora Honda put them back together to make the blinkers and stuff work. What we need is a wiring diagram and I'm sure we can find the problem. I attached a strip of aluminum bent in an L shape to one of the windshield bolts and put the toggle on there with a rubber cap. I grounded the wire to the closest fairing stay bolt. I'm assuming you're local and if you want to troubleshoot this together, I'm willing.

I should also mention that with the switch fix I still overheat at highway speeds if the tach is over 4500 RPM. When it idles it's cool as a cuke.
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Old 10-05-2004, 02:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertdave
Isn't that the same as what DYSCO said?
The way I read it was: Fan turns on = switch bad.

The fan *should* turn on.
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Old 10-05-2004, 03:18 PM   #11
Dysco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltar
The way I read it was: Fan turns on = switch bad.

The fan *should* turn on.
Yeah- the brass switch at the bottom of the RAD could be bad. But since I changed mine out already and it didn't fix anything, considering they were from the same cops, I'm guessing it's not the switch.
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Old 10-05-2004, 04:18 PM   #12
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Thumb clarfication

Check the fan fuse, inside the white fuse holder on the top of your overflow tank. Throttle side of the bike, under your right hand tank shroud.
Bet that's it!


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Old 10-06-2004, 02:54 AM   #13
Bill Shanks
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KLR wiring diagram

I have a Clymer Manual with the wiring diagram if you need it. dofbill@yahoo.com I'm in south Denver, was on the small bike ride.
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Old 10-06-2004, 08:05 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dysco
My radiator had the same issue meaning there's a wire somewhere that got clipped or something if two of the bikes had the same issue. When the cops took their lights off, they clipped ALL the wires and Aurora Honda put them back together to make the blinkers and stuff work. What we need is a wiring diagram and I'm sure we can find the problem. I attached a strip of aluminum bent in an L shape to one of the windshield bolts and put the toggle on there with a rubber cap. I grounded the wire to the closest fairing stay bolt. I'm assuming you're local and if you want to troubleshoot this together, I'm willing.

I should also mention that with the switch fix I still overheat at highway speeds if the tach is over 4500 RPM. When it idles it's cool as a cuke.
Yeah, It looks like they did a bit of a butcher job on the electrics...Funny, the Aurora guys didn't even bother to hook up the front signals on mine....no big deal though since it was just that the bullet connectors were not connected.

When I first got the bike, I took it out on a ride that day, and the fan did come on (I was surprised that the fan was running even after the ignition was turned off)...it actually stopped coming on a few days later...I found a wiring diagram on line, so last Saturday I traced the related wires, and tested both the wires and the relay...and grounding out the wire to the switch did turn on the fan...outside of a faulty switch, the only thing I can think it could be would be a loose/broken/stripped wire that was temporarily put back into sorts by me jiggling the line while tracing it (it was a bit rainy this week, so I first thought it was a stripped wire getting wet and shorting out or something).....I guess another outside possibility would be that the heat gauge is whacked, showing a higher temp than is really there (she came close to overheating after less than 4 miles city commuting).....I also noticed that she ran a bit hot (say 3/4+ the way to overheating) when I'd come off the highway even when the fan was running.

Just to put it out there...a basic question on liquid cooling. I'm assuming it has a thermostat, separate from the fan switch/sensor, that regulates the flow of the coolant. If this was to fail, would the temperature of the coolant in the radiator fail to rise, and so the fan switch would never read a high temp and because of this it would not switch the fan on at all? I don't know if this even makes sense, I'm going to have to find a parts diagram maybe....One thing I'm pretty sure of is that while theses bikes have low mileage, they were probably running at idle for long periods of time (my friend's bike has some melting on the right side plastics)...maybe this could lead to a wearing out/warping/failure in the thermostat?

Thanks for the trouble-shooting offer. I'll be taking a more thorough look at the bike this weekend to see if I can sort it out...If I come up blank I'll take you up on it...In any case, (once I' have it up and running) we should get together for a ride sometime soon, seeing how the snow is on the way.
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Old 10-06-2004, 08:16 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Shanks
I have a Clymer Manual with the wiring diagram if you need it. dofbill@yahoo.com I'm in south Denver, was on the small bike ride.
Hey Bill! (Didn't recognize the screen name at first)

BTW I was thinking of trying to get a tinker day set up before Mountain leaves for the Antarctic (a few weeks from now I think)...do the subframe upgrade and the doohickey replacement....anybody in the Denver area interested?
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