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Old 03-31-2010, 01:07 AM   #31
bikyto
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crash bars can be a hassle to put back in as they usually don't line up perfectly (and take the risk to cross thread as well). so the other side needs to be loosened up as well (crash bars). it's a lot more bolts than just the tank. In addition to that, some people take very long trip and after 400 miles of somewhat difficult riding in the middle of Peru when you have to setup your tent and settle down... one might want to minimize the amount of work on the bike for a simple oil change...

that's my objective...
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:40 AM   #32
dad2bike
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Nice. I've still got to order in mine. Same ones for my truck pan too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FINNDIAN
I ended up getting one of the drain valve deals and put it on today. Thanks for the link dad2bike this is gonna make cheater oil changes a lot neater.

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Old 03-31-2010, 06:26 PM   #33
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had to notch the corner of the lower tank mount but it fits in there nice and the hose can be pulled out without even dropping the skid plate.



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Old 04-05-2010, 01:46 AM   #34
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For info

If you're stuck I'd guess 4x4 outlets would carry this kind of product too. Finger tight is all you need and that length of hose


http://shop.difflock.com/defender-drainplug-p-40.html
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Old 04-05-2010, 08:20 AM   #35
Rapid Dog
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Thumb

holy mozzezz, is that a 77 R100RS with a solo seat I see?
I had that same bike...like your taste in motos...

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Old 06-04-2011, 04:00 PM   #36
nevermind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtNap View Post
Parts list for the remote oil drain from:

http://www.anplumbing.com/

12 x 1.5 to AN-6 adapter #9919DFG $7.99
AN-6 to -6 hose #800106 $6.25 (need 2)
AN-6 plug #580606 $3.04 (includes 2)
Perform-O-Flex hose #400060 $6.99/ft (need 2 feet)

anplumbing.com also has a 12 x 1.5 adapter with seal that they say is a carburetor adapter #991944 at $6.79 - I don't know which adapter would be the better choice for this application.

I hope this helps someone. It works out to about $40, and then oil changes should be much quicker and cleaner, especially on a long trip.

It has helped me, thank you! I just ordered the fittings and hose. I tried the other locking, quick release valve, but I couldn't get it to clock to where it wasn't hitting the tank and was still tight. This is simpler, cleaner. Mikey likes it!
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:39 PM   #37
dad2bike
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Bump for those looking for this thread.
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Old 09-12-2011, 09:30 AM   #38
Nailhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FINNDIAN View Post
Exactly the way I oriented mine, but the tank hits on the cylindrical portion of the valve.

Had any problem with that?
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Old 09-19-2011, 03:52 PM   #39
Dagwood_55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtNap View Post
Parts list for the remote oil drain from:

http://www.anplumbing.com/

12 x 1.5 to AN-6 adapter #9919DFG $7.99
AN-6 to -6 hose #800106 $6.25 (need 2)
AN-6 plug #580606 $3.04 (includes 2)
Perform-O-Flex hose #400060 $6.99/ft (need 2 feet)

anplumbing.com also has a 12 x 1.5 adapter with seal that they say is a carburetor adapter #991944 at $6.79 - I don't know which adapter would be the better choice for this application.

I hope this helps someone. It works out to about $40, and then oil changes should be much quicker and cleaner, especially on a long trip.

So, I order all this stuff. Now, not knowing didly about hydrolic fittings and such, how do you get the SS braided lines into the compression nut??? Do the SS braids go in also?? or do I strip them back and only insert the rubber hose, course then it would look like heck....
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Old 09-20-2011, 07:27 AM   #40
Alleycatdad
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Just a note for all of us who find the oil change complex....there's a thread around here somewhere about having to DROP THE OIL PAN on Guzzis to change the spin-on oil filter.

I feel better already!

Steve
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Old 09-20-2011, 11:21 AM   #41
wpbarlow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
Just a note for all of us who find the oil change complex....there's a thread around here somewhere about having to DROP THE OIL PAN on Guzzis to change the spin-on oil filter.I feel better already!
Steve
Yeah- the famous "18 bolts" iirc

Guzzisti defend having to do this by saying it's good to check the condition of the motor's bottom end, which is just a more severe version of OC mavens' defense of the oil change process with "good to look around the bike".
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Old 09-21-2011, 06:51 AM   #42
Nailhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpbarlow View Post
Yeah- the famous "18 bolts" iirc

Guzzisti defend having to do this by saying it's good to check the condition of the motor's bottom end...
I don't like what that says about MG's confidence in the durability of their own product.
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Old 12-03-2011, 06:31 PM   #43
viola-tor
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Bump this thread and a question:

I've heard (from DirtJack) that the O-ring/washer that comes with the Fumoto valve gets cut/crushed as it presses into the recess of the oil tank drain hole, which then leaks. His solution was to stack two stock crush washers which solved the problem.

Any others experience this? Mine sure looks like that might be the case (haven't torqued it on just yet)

'07 990 BTW.
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Old 12-03-2011, 08:54 PM   #44
c-zulu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailhead View Post
Exactly the way I oriented mine, but the tank hits on the cylindrical portion of the valve.

Had any problem with that?
No problem here..
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:52 PM   #45
666
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I used 2 copper crash washers I had laying around and sealant on the valve thread.
I had to add 2-3 mm spacer to keep left gastank from touching the valve.


Quote:
Originally Posted by viola-tor View Post
Bump this thread and a question:

I've heard (from DirtJack) that the O-ring/washer that comes with the Fumoto valve gets cut/crushed as it presses into the recess of the oil tank drain hole, which then leaks. His solution was to stack two stock crush washers which solved the problem.

Any others experience this? Mine sure looks like that might be the case (haven't torqued it on just yet)

'07 990 BTW.
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