ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 03-10-2010, 08:18 PM   #61
herrhelmet
A Serious Man
 
herrhelmet's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: USA West
Oddometer: 2,354
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
I already have my lights mounted. Mine is vertical so I will keep my fairing narrow. I found that the 03 Dakar windscreen has a pretty good form for my application.


I was being skimpy and got the cheaper pink foam from homedepot. Still, I got stuck at this step. I can draw pretty well, but sculpting is out my league.


Mine is probably gonna be one off. I don't think I will make a casting mold. Probably just use the template and start laying glass on it. Sand, fill, trim as needed.
Nice Lego Dakar...
__________________
"Your bike is too heavy" www.motolithium.com TWITTER
herrhelmet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2010, 08:23 PM   #62
WayneC1
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 1,607
Maintenance free batteries VRLA & AGM are both sensitive to heat & overvoltage, the detailed tech info from the manufacturers stress this as the plates are closer together & can warp & short out. One mfr's material stated more sensitive than conventional batteries on both

The reports in threads over at f650 re battery replacement seem to indicate 2-3 years life & some report battery replacement more than others

It seems there are two factors in play, firstly those with seasonal riding only drop batteries due to the machines sitting idle over winter & less than ideal trickle charging, the second from the hotter locations seem to be the VR & hot conditions with the battery in a confined space above the motor

One sign of overheating in a battery is when inner cells need more top up than outer cells, each person I have quized on this has confirmed that is normally the case. On mine it is no longer so, I also put some lightening holes in the battery holder so that may be assisting cooling to the battery.

Re the bash plate, I tried additional holes in the stock plate & it had little effect, relocating the VR worked & took a little weight out of the machine in the process so it was a win all round

The additional holes in the front upper section of the stock bash plate do move a bit more air round the lower section of the motor so that is not such a bad thing when BMW go to the extreme of saying fork gaiters or radiator guards obstruct radiator cooling & are the cause of overheating problems then a bit of attention to air flow round the motor area is prudent perhaps

WayneC1 screwed with this post 03-10-2010 at 08:29 PM
WayneC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2010, 08:56 PM   #63
sellmeyer OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Aspen, Colorado USA
Oddometer: 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneC1
Re the VR

You will see the overheat in the VR with a voltmeter easily, I have one set up permanently in the dash.
yeah, i have the garmin gps permanently wired in too as my voltmeter and I've never seen anything much above 14.2v. I guess what I was getting at is WHERE DID YOU WIRE IN YOUR VOLTMETER. As you know, you can get different voltage readings depending on where you tap into the system.

Mine is wired in behind a relay, but it should be pulling straight from the battery with minimal influence from the relay. Where did you connect yours?
sellmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2010, 10:48 PM   #64
WayneC1
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Location: Sydney, Australia
Oddometer: 1,607
Used a couple of wiring locations during the testing to cross check readings & confirm no bad connections or individual overloaded wires etc

Permanent install is via load relief relay to reflect overall state of wiring

Re battery sensitivities etc the document below from Deka is worth a read, one of the better ones in terms of modern batteries & correct charging voltages. The Yuasa doc's are not the best I have seen

http://www.eastpenn-deka.com/assets/base/0139.pdf

From that doc, VRLA Max 14.2, AGM Max 14.6 both @ 68f, full tempurature table is interesting
WayneC1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 11:51 AM   #65
john_aero
Beastly Adventurer
 
john_aero's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Ireland
Oddometer: 1,132
daft question,

but as funds now are gone and cant get a new headlight unit, i am getting a HID unit.

but would like a rallye fairing as need better wind protection, anyone thing the rallye fairings would fit neatly with the standard light and not look too outa place
__________________
women are like clouds.......
once they fuck off it is a really nice day.......
john_aero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 01:35 PM   #66
sellmeyer OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Aspen, Colorado USA
Oddometer: 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
daft question,

but as funds now are gone and cant get a new headlight unit, i am getting a HID unit.
Questions:

what HID unit are you getting? presume it is an H4 drop in for your OE lens?
Quote:
Originally Posted by john_aero
anyone thin(k) the rallye fairings would fit neatly with the standard light and not look too outa place

Which rallye fairing are you talking about?


Just for discussion's sake on both points I'd like to point out what HerrHelmet and I have decided to do with our bikes. We both went with a DE projector headlight; I decided I wanted projectors because I felt the OE lens didn't have much of a future with HID. The Halogen DE projectors are the same basic lens design as a full-on HID light. I figure at some point I can replace the lamp in mine for an add-on HID kit without sacrificing light focus and a good pattern. I know that early, and badly designed lamps currently being sold today scatter light badly in the OE lens.

HerrHelmet eluded to an HID kit for his lights; not sure if he has located and tested one for his lamps yet...but there is promise there. I think there is much more promise in the projectors than trying to upgrade the OE lens.

I've already made two of the lamp assemblies previously pictured here:


The halogens I've selected work really well and I'm less compelled to go the HID route now that I have them working. I know that I'll go HID at some point, but it is not so critical now. This Winter I tested a special purpose IR bulb in one of the projectors and observed even more light output for the same watt consumption as the standard sylvania lamps that came with the lights. I'm thinking of getting another for the high beam.

Anyway, I'd be interest in learning more about the HID idea that you have and what HerrHelmet is planning.

*there is always the option of buying HID take-offs from wrecked euro cars...thought about this but realized they would still be more expensive than my halogens.



Now in terms of the Rallye Fairing concept. I still would like to know what you are thinking of getting and plugging your stock lamp into.

The TT fairing for the F650 would certainly take a stocker lamp provided that you made a mount that would hold it. Fittment of the OE lens in a rallye fairing is more a matter of how wide the fairing is and at what vertical position it sits than anything else. #1) A lens mount has to be made that will fit into the fairing where overall width is the challenge #2) the lens can't be too high or it will prevent installation of the OE instrument cluster.

In studying the TT fairing for the F650 I realized that the designer did a pretty good job of getting the lamps and oil cooler parked in the fairing without taking too much away from the potential instrument stack. While there is no OE instrument cluster option for that kit, there could be room for one if the center bracket is slightly modified.

Bottom line, I think you could integrate the OE lens with the TT fairing. Afterall, the plastic lens on that fairing is almost the shape of the OE lens anyway.
sellmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 01:53 PM   #67
sellmeyer OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Aspen, Colorado USA
Oddometer: 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650


Hey BMac,

what kind of adjusters are you using on your lights?

On the retrofit kit for the stock fairing I'm mounting the lamps flat on the bracket and utilizing the 3 OE adjuster screws so that it pretty much just plugs in and both lights are adjusted together.

I'll probably reuse the light bracket on the GSR but I was thinking of fixing it to the center bracket w/o adjustment. Then I would use the adjusting screws that came with the lights to independently aim the lights. Still not sure about this, however

In testing the projectors last year I ran both lights on together. The combined pattern of both lights pretty much negated the need for the PIAA 510s that we have. I plan on having this be selectable so that I can run either light on, or both working together. Also, I realized that it would be nice to raise the low-beam light to get the dipped portion further up the road and improve forward coverage when running off road at night. This is a problem on public roads because this pretty much defeats the whole dipped concept of the low beam.

To get around this I was thinking of a user selectable trim on the low beam. Using a momentary toggle switch I could activate a small motor to turn the vertical adjusting screw and raise or lower the beam on the fly. It sounds complicated and prone to failures, etc...but I think I've actually worked out a pretty simple system.

Have you run with your projectors on yet? other thoughts?
sellmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 02:40 PM   #68
BMacW650
.
 
BMacW650's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 713
The good light is all about the optical, especially if you want projector style lights.

I got m $68 hella light, and VVME HID kit. The bulb is only 33W, but it makes stock light or stock reflector w/HID look like candle sticks. Picture doesn't do it justice.

BMacW650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 02:54 PM   #69
BMacW650
.
 
BMacW650's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 713
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellmeyer
Hey BMac,

what kind of adjusters are you using on your lights?

On the retrofit kit for the stock fairing I'm mounting the lamps flat on the bracket and utilizing the 3 OE adjuster screws so that it pretty much just plugs in and both lights are adjusted together.

I'll probably reuse the light bracket on the GSR but I was thinking of fixing it to the center bracket w/o adjustment. Then I would use the adjusting screws that came with the lights to independently aim the lights. Still not sure about this, however

In testing the projectors last year I ran both lights on together. The combined pattern of both lights pretty much negated the need for the PIAA 510s that we have. I plan on having this be selectable so that I can run either light on, or both working together. Also, I realized that it would be nice to raise the low-beam light to get the dipped portion further up the road and improve forward coverage when running off road at night. This is a problem on public roads because this pretty much defeats the whole dipped concept of the low beam.

To get around this I was thinking of a user selectable trim on the low beam. Using a momentary toggle switch I could activate a small motor to turn the vertical adjusting screw and raise or lower the beam on the fly. It sounds complicated and prone to failures, etc...but I think I've actually worked out a pretty simple system.

Have you run with your projectors on yet? other thoughts?
The entire plate the projectors are mounted to has tilt adjustment. Individually, the projector is mounted to the plate with 3 spring loaded screws. That allows me to fine tune the projection in two axis.

To be honest, the whole mod started because I wanted to get rid of the heavy stock bracket and projector lights. I don't really care about the looks or the fairing. I don't want have to add any aux light at all. (there really ain't any place you can mount them and go off road).

I have the VVME 35W HID conversion kit. I wasn't sure it would be bright enough.
I've been riding my bike in the night for the past few days. I think they were setup a bit too high. It's so bright, I had to be on the look out for cops all the way, especially with the naked front end with no fairing.
BMacW650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 06:14 PM   #70
sellmeyer OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Aspen, Colorado USA
Oddometer: 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
I have the VVME 35W HID conversion kit.

this one:

http://www.vvme.com/standard-9005hb3...cPath=44_45_30
sellmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2010, 07:41 PM   #71
BMacW650
.
 
BMacW650's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 713
Quote:
Originally Posted by sellmeyer
That's what I used for the Hella 9005 based light..
Actually, I got the digital slim kit for H3 originally. Then got additional 9005 bulbs later.

It comes in pair. I have no plan on using it for the high beam. So I always have a spare.
BMacW650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2010, 12:47 AM   #72
john_aero
Beastly Adventurer
 
john_aero's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Ireland
Oddometer: 1,132
[quote=sellmeyer]Questions:
what HID unit are you getting? presume it is an H4 drop in for your OE lens?
Which rallye fairing are you talking about?quote]

i like the touratech style fairing but would like get blank one and match it up to my bike as i am not in position to buy new dash or brackets so was looking get a mould made or find one already done and modify it to fit onto the standard mounts

as for the HID kit, looking getting set from ebay, be honest i cant remember the name of it but will post link when home as cant get on ebay at work

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Xenon-HID-H4-L...item27afe03dfe
__________________
women are like clouds.......
once they fuck off it is a really nice day.......

john_aero screwed with this post 03-12-2010 at 08:16 AM
john_aero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2010, 08:46 AM   #73
BMacW650
.
 
BMacW650's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Troy Michigan
Oddometer: 713
So I give up on any fancy curve and aerodynamics.

I really just want wrap it up and ride.

There is a huge issue - I can't see shit in front of me. I will probably have to make the entire front piece out of acrylic panel.



Do you have any markup/prototype you can share? Maybe I can get some ideas.
BMacW650 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2010, 11:55 AM   #74
komatias
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2005
Oddometer: 313
Mac,

As the fairing is now in paper, if you can lay a layer of fiberglass over it, you will have the basic shape. I imagine you could then add putty to get the curves if you wanted.

As for the height issue, the rallye fairing is not meant for when you are sat down. Most of the time you are standing up in the races so you can see far ahead and this also allows you to get a better feel on the tight stuff.

Have you thought of relocating the GPS holder? Also moving the headlights in towards the frame a bit?

Otherwise...DUDE THAT FAIRING CONCEPT FECKING ROXX!!!
komatias is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2010, 12:18 PM   #75
sellmeyer OP
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Aspen, Colorado USA
Oddometer: 410
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650

I will probably have to make the entire front piece out of acrylic panel.
what would be wrong with this plan? Like you said before, just paint the lower portion that doesn't need to be transparent

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMacW650
Do you have any markup/prototype you can share? Maybe I can get some ideas
I'm pretty busy right now with the engine guard mold; but I should be done with it Saturday afternoon. I'll see about posting some sketches and a photo of the foam unit as it is now.

Two things I'll suggest as a solution to your line of sight problem are these:
Do your best to cap the height to only cover what you really need covering.

Bring the top portion of the fairing as far back as you can get it so that you can see over it and down, rather than just over it.
*I realize the latter is hard to do without curves.


On my fairing I have the top portion sweeping back a bit farther than the TT fairing, I think, and I'm not sure it is quite as tall either. Again, please be patient for the pictures.
sellmeyer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 07:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014