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Old 04-29-2010, 02:13 AM   #241
newt_sr
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Thanks vudu...

The 'cylinder securing bolt' (allen head) threads into the damper rod. The 'front-fork cylinder holder' (special tool P/N YM-0137) prevents the damper rod from spinning thus allowing the cylinder securing bolt to unthread. From what I have gleaned from other forums and such is that this special tool is nothing more than a 'T' handle with a fixed 24mm (maybe 11mm) hex (12 point?) on the end.
I'm gonna have to wait for my weekend before I can do anything about it (build the tool). In the meantime I just drool over all the pics of the XT660's (damn you Yamaha for not importing them here) and visit Mezo's thread for a chuckle (Mezo`s 1988 XT600 Rebuild Thread (Project Ténéré).
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Old 04-29-2010, 04:27 AM   #242
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Yeah Newt, I've been following that one he's a literary genius. well sort of. Interesting anyway
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:14 AM   #243
XT_Driftwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newt_sr
1st try: insert allen wrench, tap repeatedly with hammer = no go. Bolt doesn't move.

2nd try: vice the fork tube, use allen socket on breaker bar = no go. Bolt turns slowly in place.

3rd try: reinstall springs, vice fork tube, use Milwaukee impact driver = no go. Bolt turns faster in place (I really hope I didn't melt the oil seal onto the inside wall of the fork tube. No, I did not land on the trigger forever. Two quick pulls and I realised what was going on.)

Then I get a box of parts in the mail to put my cylinder head back on and they didn't pack the head gasket (yup, the expensive one, $54).

It's all good. It'll be running before too long. Thanks for all the tips guys. This is getting to be my favorite thread/website.
Placing the fork tube in a vice isn't gonna do squat, unfortunately. I don't even remove the forks from the bike. The trick is to compress the fork, then hit it quick with the impact driver. I throw a ratchet strap through the axle hole and over the handlebars where they attach to the triples and use it to compress the forks- not all the way to bottom, but maybe half the travel length or so. Then hit it with the impact and bang-zoom, the bolts comes out easy as pie. If you don't compress the forks the bolt will simply spin.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:23 AM   #244
newt_sr
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Thanks XT_Driftwood, I'll give it a shot on my time off. The forks were off because I was replacing the steering stem bearings and needed them off to put on the gators.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:43 AM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vudu
Yeah Newt, I've been following that one he's a literary genius. well sort of. Interesting anyway
I just hope the guy gets his bike built and his trip knocked out before the next whammy hits him.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:44 AM   #246
XT_Driftwood
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Did you order your stem bearings from Yamaha or are you going with aftermarket ones?

I too need to replace my steering stem bearings. My bike is getting a little twitchy and I think the bearings are the culprit. I tightened them a bit last fall and that helped for a while, but they really need to be changed out.

Also, does anyone know of any brake pads for these things that work better than the stock ones? I don't want to go through the trouble for changing to a front end with disk brakes, but man do the drum brakes suck on these things.
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Old 04-29-2010, 05:55 AM   #247
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamah...item1c1041a742

Fair enough price, not sure of quality but I figure I won't wear them out.
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Old 04-30-2010, 02:13 PM   #248
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What are you guys running for oil? I'm running M1 10-40 but I'm worried that it might be a bit thin? OEM asks for 20w40.


ontop of that, I'm a bit upset. Finally got the bike together and riding great and now I'm getting puffs of smoke on Deceleration. Nothing terrible but enough to see on any decel above 4k RPM's I also think my valve noise is getting worse when I just adjusted not 100 miles ago. It is still running strong, but the starvation noise is back and it was terrible sounding the first 5 minutes of riding then went away. Not sure what to think at this point.
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Old 04-30-2010, 04:10 PM   #249
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I use Rotella T 15w/40w. I chased out a couple of forum threads and took their advice (and it's cheap at Walmart).

Don't know what to say on the smoke. Recheck valve clearances, cam chain tension, compression (bad oil rings?).
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Old 04-30-2010, 05:20 PM   #250
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I also use Rotella 15w-40. I try and change it every 1500 miles or so, but last fall I pushed it to 2100.

FWIW, these motors are pretty tough. If your bike is running strong, I think I might try and ride it though till fall and then tear it down to have a look.
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Old 04-30-2010, 06:09 PM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XT_Driftwood
I also use Rotella 15w-40. I try and change it every 1500 miles or so, but last fall I pushed it to 2100.

FWIW, these motors are pretty tough. If your bike is running strong, I think I might try and ride it though till fall and then tear it down to have a look.
Ya, I've read they are able to take a few bullets. Mine is running rich (black soot on rear fender) on WOT from idle. If you accelerate up gradually it doesn't spit out black or blue. When you back off the accelerator you get blue smoke, which tells my brain it may be a valve seal or ugly valve.

I'm gonna drain the oil and re-add just to see if it is low or not. I can never get a reliable read on this stupid dry sump system.

EDIT: Holy crap my oil looked horrendous. Not even 500 miles on it and the oil looked several thousand old. No shavings though. Product of blowby? Gas in the oil?
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XTwarrior screwed with this post 04-30-2010 at 06:23 PM
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:18 PM   #252
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Well, if my calculations (and guesswork) are relatively in the same ballpark, the bike ate almost a quart in 350 miles of riding. How much of that was the fact that I was running Synthetic which burns much easier remains to be seen as I just put 65 ounces of Rotella T 15-w40 in the reservoir for tomorrow's group ride. After tomorrow's ride I am going to drop the oil again in a clean container to measure how much was consumed. I have an extra quart in the back pouch just in case it is necessary.

This sucks, if it still consumes as much with the Rotella in it, I don't know what to do. I guess I'll start with a compression test and work from there
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Old 05-01-2010, 12:12 AM   #253
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Hey Warrior, sounds like worn valve guides, had a car that did the same. Mind you never got any worse in 200,000 Km (Aussie V8). Try some heavier weight oil maybe. manual says SAE 20W-40, every 4000Km (2500 miles)

Re the brake shoes... I bought some cheap chinese shoes, DBS in a black box. Work fine. The old shoe had de-laminated from the friction material.

Good luck
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Old 05-01-2010, 01:45 PM   #254
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Ya, just get sintered shoes and you should be set. I beat the piss out of my bike today keeping up with SS bikes today and I used ALOT of brake and I didn't have fade with my front sintered shoes. I was quite surprised actually.

As for my oil consumption and ticking, I rode it 230 hard miles today. I noticed it is definitely down on power but I'm thinking it may be the heat and humidity for some of it. It pulled hard in every gear but 5th, which isn't surprising. The way i know it is down on power is that it struggled to hold 80MPH @ 5k RPM's when it usually will bury the needle and sit at near 6K RPM's on the highway on a flat.

I'm gonna measure the oil in a bit when it cools off.
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:06 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XTwarrior
EDIT: Holy crap my oil looked horrendous. Not even 500 miles on it and the oil looked several thousand old. No shavings though. Product of blowby? Gas in the oil?
Just curious, does your clutch slip at all? I noticed you said you were running synthetic. I had read that you shouldn't run true synthetic oil in the XT's because it doesn't play well with the wet clutch, but I didn't believe it so I changed to over to 5w-40 Rotella synth last spring. I noticed that the oil looked absolutely terrible after 200 miles or so. After 500 miles, the clutch started slipping under hard accel. After 1000 miles the clutch was toast. Supposedly you have to run kevlar clutch disks, like Barnett supplies, if you want to run synthetic oil. I changed over to a Barnett clutch, but I also switched back to 15w-40 Rotella dino.

I also have a tough time getting an accurate oil reading. Every XT550 I know of has the same problem, the oil in the upper tank drains into the crankcase over time and it takes some running before the system gets back to normal.
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