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Old 02-25-2010, 01:20 PM   #16
Tseta OP
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So, this is where I left off last night:



Tonight, I was equipped with the proper tools for digging deep into the unknown (to me) territories of LC4 internals.



I went ahead and removed the rocker arms from within the cylinder head top section.



My goal was to change the camshaft follower bearings. There is some talk about the consequences of a failed bearing and pictures of the fix in this thread. Based on the discussions here on AdvRider, Ive come to the conclusion that these bearings should be replaced as preventative maintenance. How often? Maybe every 30-40tkm hopefully before failure.



I pressed out the old bearing shafts using some appropriately sized sockets and a big vice.



Here are the old bearings. It seems that Ive caught the intake side just in time, as there is already quite considerable wear on the shaft.





The new bearings were put in place and the plastic needle holder was pushed through with the new shaft.



Then the shaft was locked in place by punching on the edge of the shaft with a center punch, in four places per side.





EDIT: Note that the punch marks shown here are too small and there are not enough of them. Even the punchmarks shown in this picture (click!) might not hold! So please, peen/punch the shafts adequately! I've left this picture here to show the basic idea and procedure.

Reassembly is simple. Just have to remember to put new o-rings to the rocker arm shafts


and mind the shims when inserting the shaft.



Up next is the camshaft itself.

Cheers,

Tseta

Tseta screwed with this post 09-27-2011 at 04:10 AM
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:27 PM   #17
gunnerbuck
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I hope that your pin will hold for the long run with only 4 punch marks... Also the punch marks are so close to the edge that there may not be much of a flare on the pin ends...
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:09 PM   #18
Tseta OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck
I hope that your pin will hold for the long run with only 4 punch marks... Also the punch marks are so close to the edge that there may not be much of a flare on the pin ends...
I hope so as well.

I thought that I had done quite a good job on securing the shafts onto the rocker arms. Even after 1 punch, the shaft seemed to hold its place nicely. So if 1 is good, then 4 must be better and 8 must be really good already? I mean, how many punch marks should there be?

Regarding the location of the punch marks, I thought that being relatively close to the edge, I have a good chance of displacing enough material to lock the shaft in place. I was not sure if making marks nearer the center would flare the ends enough. It is just the contrary?





-T
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:57 AM   #19
makazica
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Good job you're doing there....!!

Can you explain to me how to remove the rocker arms from the head top section?

And I reeeally like your O-ring collection!!
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:52 AM   #20
Tseta OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makazica
Good job you're doing there....!!

Can you explain to me how to remove the rocker arms from the head top section?

And I reeeally like your O-ring collection!!
These shafts just slide out from the spark plug side of the top section after you have removed all the top section mounting bolts. You may have to push the shaft a little bit from the water pump side with a rod or a pin.

Try this picture also.

Cheers,

Tseta

Tseta screwed with this post 02-26-2010 at 06:04 AM
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:58 AM   #21
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Thanks! Got it. I tried this when doing mine but it didn't slide out....I guess I should have pushed harder.....anyway....cam rollers and cam shaft are my next winter project.

Thanks again for the explanation!

m.
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Old 02-26-2010, 07:35 AM   #22
laramie LC4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tseta



Cheers,

Tseta
glad to see you didnt forget the important stuff.

laramie
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Old 02-26-2010, 08:43 AM   #23
makazica
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laramie LC4
glad to see you didnt forget the important stuff.

laramie
Closed.....doesn't count!
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Old 02-26-2010, 02:27 PM   #24
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To remove the camshaft, the shop manual suggests that the engine is placed on TDC and that a mark on the camshaft sprocket should align on the cylinder head top section seam. This did not seem so clear, but once I found the mark on the sprocket, the procedure made sense. The mark was hidden from direct view by the camchain.



After the engine was set into the correct position, the crankshaft locking bolt was put into place,



the camchain tensioner removed,



and the camshaft sprocket bolt removed.





Then the sparkplug side needle bearing was removed by first removing the big circlip from its groove and then tilting the camshaft up.



Then the whole cam sprocket was slid off the camshaft and the camshaft was removed.



Here is the camshaft disassembled,



and a closeup of the lobes.



Then onto removing the actual cylinder head.



The top of the piston and the combustion chamber don’t look that bad, do they? I must admit that I don’t have enough experience to say if the amount of carbon is excessive or not.





I bought a valve spring compressor from our local equivalent of Canadian Tire/Harbor Freight. I guess I should have known better, for this “tool” (if you could call it that) was a total POS.



So I just used a big, quality C-clamp with an improvised adapter piece. This contraption worked quite nicely. The valve springs (or something in that area) made a big snapping sound upon tightening the clamp. I guess this comes from the valve collets releasing their taper grip on the top spring seat.



Here are the removed valves



and the bare combustion chamber.



The shop manual for the engine specifies to check the valve guides with a 7.05mm plug gauge. The idea is that if the valve guide is worn the plug gauge goes easily into the guide hole. The largest plug gauge I could get to fit into all of the guides was 7.00mm.



A closer look at the intake



and exhaust valves.



The combustion chamber and the top of the piston look quite much nicer after some elbow grease.





I think that this will be as deep as I will tear down into the engine. I’ll probably lightly lap the valves and reassemble the head with new valve stem seals.

Laramie and Makazica: The proper tools are essential, and this project has most definitely produced more than enough “empties”.

Cheers,

Tseta

Tseta screwed with this post 02-26-2010 at 09:36 PM
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:10 PM   #25
makazica
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Your cam shaft looks mint.....mine had some marks....next winter.....

Needle bearing on my camshaft was closed on the side facing the seat...hmmm....

Warewolf talked about hidden cam gear marker....easy to spot when looking at it from an angle and turning it....

Got more crappy tools? A strong vice, a hammer and some punches are my weapons of choice.....
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:20 PM   #26
Tseta OP
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Quote:
Needle bearing on my camshaft was closed on the side facing the seat...hmmm....
Posts 7, 9 and 10 of this thread shed some light onto the cam bearing.

To paraphrase, my bearing is not the original one. Some previous owner has changed it already at least once.

-T
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Old 02-26-2010, 03:24 PM   #27
laramie LC4
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if you have gone this far, you might as well put new valves in the exhaust. you can get the 32mm and basically make yours a "high-flow" head. while they are at it, have them port and polish it for you.

laramie
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck


I hope that your pin will hold for the long run with only 4 punch marks... Also the punch marks are so close to the edge that there may not be much of a flare on the pin ends...

Mine were done the exact same way 20,000 mi ago... damn next month have to do a 5000 mi inspection and replace those...

Nice work
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:16 PM   #29
Tseta OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laramie LC4
if you have gone this far, you might as well put new valves in the exhaust. you can get the 32mm and basically make yours a "high-flow" head. while they are at it, have them port and polish it for you.

laramie




I have a 2003 LC4. The cylinder head is the high flow version already?

-T
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Old 02-27-2010, 02:21 AM   #30
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I marked mine where the dot is lower on the gear...
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