which front spring rate?

[homerj]

it's become apparent that I need stiffer front springs. I've noticed that I bottom out the stock front springs on almost every little rise in the trail. What I don't know is what rate I should get.

I'm about 180 pounds and ride somewhat hard. By no means am I an "A" class enduro rider, but I'll cruise at about 30-40 on a two track and jump a few water bars.

from what i've heard I should be looking at either the .56 or .59s. given my weight what is wisdom of the forum?

[Bok Befok]

I'm about 190lbs with my riding gear and trailtricks have put in 55's in mine. Can't believe the difference.

[xdbx]

I hear 59's work best for the waterbars at Fourmile...

[homerj]

Originally Posted by xdbx

I hear 59's work best for the waterbars at Fourmile...

me too

my real concern is that I'll be oversprung and mess up weight transfer resulting in the front not biting in on a turn.

[xdbx]

Look at it like an engineer:

$100 investment for a set of springs of whatever rate. Reclaimable in the flea market if you reconsider

$20 Motionpro fork cap tool. Sort of useless, but just buy it anyway. Or maybe borrow Duke's?

$10 A cheapie 22mm that you can buy from ching chong to file down and get the cap off.

In the world of suspension, I'm sure you know that's a meager investment for what difference it could potentially make. Try and guestimate by how much preload you've got on your stock 48's now. Do you have any additional stacks on the inside? Do you have the preload cap maxed out (10mm)? If so, try the 59's. You can play with the internal preload a bit to vary the effective springrate. Don't forget if you've got 20mm additional preload internally, and the cap maxed out, they're not 48's anymore.

[homerj]

Originally Posted by xdbx

Look at it like an engineer:

$100 investment for a set of springs of whatever rate. Reclaimable in the flea market if you reconsider

$20 Motionpro fork cap tool. Sort of useless, but just buy it anyway. Or maybe borrow Duke's?

$10 A cheapie 22mm that you can buy from ching chong to file down and get the cap off.

In the world of suspension, I'm sure you know that's a meager investment for what difference it could potentially make. Try and guestimate by how much preload you've got on your stock 48's now. Do you have any additional stacks on the inside? Do you have the preload cap maxed out (10mm)? If so, try the 59's. You can play with the internal preload a bit to vary the effective springrate. Don't forget if you've got 20mm additional preload internally, and the cap maxed out, they're not 48's anymore.

maths ur hard

Suspension has always been black magic to me and I'm just now getting to the skill level where something on the bike is what is holding me back, rather than my own abilities.

Right now I know I have the compression damping turned all the way up, rebound is about 60-75%. I've never taken the forks apart so I've never messed with the internal preload.

My long term employment prospects are pretty shaky right now, so I'd rather avoid dropping $100 to find out I was wrong and end up having to drop another $100 to get it right.

I guess a better way of phrasing the question would be: has anyone about my weight put .59s on their bike and felt that they were oversprung?

[xdbx]

Here's my take:

I weigh 126 pounds and I will be running the 59 springs this season.

Looking forward to hearing others' input

[cdub122]

Originally Posted by xdbx

You can play with the internal preload a bit to vary the effective springrate. Don't forget if you've got 20mm additional preload internally, and the cap maxed out, they're not 48's anymore.

That's not really true. A straight rate spring is just that, adding preload only changes the amount of weight you need to put on the spring to overcome it's preloaded state and start moving it. After that, it is and will always be a 48(or whatever rate it is). Until it coil binds. All Preload really does is change your ride height. To change springrate you need to actually change the spring.

[trailtrick]

Originally Posted by homerj

it's become apparent that I need stiffer front springs. I've noticed that I bottom out the stock front springs on almost every little rise in the trail. What I don't know is what rate I should get.

I'm about 180 pounds and ride somewhat hard. By no means am I an "A" class enduro rider, but I'll cruise at about 30-40 on a two track and jump a few water bars.

from what i've heard I should be looking at either the .56 or .59s. given my weight what is wisdom of the forum?

If you going to leave the valving along and not jump water bars o droop off over 4' the .56kg springs be best .

[dozer]

trailtrick

What fork springs do you have in stock for an 04 S?

Currently I have 52s but I need more spring as I'm 250 pounds

[thugdog]

Uh...

Xdbx do you really weigh only 126 pounds?


.

[trailtrick]

Originally Posted by dozer

trailtrick

What fork springs do you have in stock for an 04 S?

Currently I have 52s but I need more spring as I'm 250 pounds

evrything from .48kg to .69kg , at 250 lbs be .64kg

[620rossco]

Currently I have 52s but I need more spring as I'm 250 pounds

Same.
So you recon .64 will be about right for our weight?
It is important to get it right because it turns out this is a great hoon machine in canyons, and I can't wait to get it out on the track. All that ground clearance.

[dozer]

Originally Posted by trailtrick

evrything from .48kg to .69kg , at 250 lbs be .64kg

What is the length on the .64 spring? Will I have to clearance the hydralic stops? What if I lose 40 pounds?

Thanks

[trailtrick]

Originally Posted by dozer

What is the length on the .64 spring? Will I have to clearance the hydralic stops? What if I lose 40 pounds?

Thanks

My springs are custom made and clear the spring guide with out removing any material ,Better quality the most,if you loose 40 lbs you will need .59 kg