Oil Change Question

[emura]

I was planning to change the oil on my 1150GS (my first BMW, my first oil change), when I ran into a co-worker and asked him about any "gotchas" and BMW-specific quirks.

Although he's also new to BMW, he told me about the "special tool" required to get the filter out (he has a 1100R).

I wanted to run this past the group to make sure I covered everything -- esp. stuff that may not be in the provided documentation.

So -- numbers (quarts, torque specs, procedure, etc.)? Anything out of the ordinary?

I'd like to switch to synth. but was told not to by my service guy. Yeah, I know there's significant bias, but he does know more than I do at this point.


( BTW, I just emailed Carl for a copy of his manual. )

[Trixie]

No real tricks, it changes like most any other engine. but you will need the special tool to remove the OEM filter. Make sure you warm it up a little bit before draining, it helps drop the goo faster.

If you switch to Fram, Deutch or other aftermarket brand oil filter, you will need a tool for that, too. Mahle makes the OEM filters, or a Fram PH3614 will fit. I personally use either the Mahle or a Wix filter.( Mahle takes the BMW tool)

The upside for aftermarket is that you can pop in to just about any Wal-Mart across the country (I am assuming you're in the US) and make a deal with the auto shop manager to let you borrow a drain pan, and throw away the old oil, so long as you buy the new oil and filter from him. Pretty cheap oil changes that way. 6-8 bucks, and 20 minutes, and you're on your way.

Treading close to the precipice of yet another synthetic oil thread, I would say keep the dino in until you have at leat 10k miles on the bike.

You can replace the gasket on the drain plug, but I only do that every few changes, or when the ring gets scrunched from too much tightening. Don't strip the drain plug hole

Remember to fill the filter up, (the engine , too!) and put some oil around the new o-ring. It will take a little over 3.5 quarts, filter included. Just get it halfway in the sight glass, then check it the next time, before you set off again.

Karl's manual should get you through it no problem.

Good luck!:):

[jimjib]

I think most guys wait until they have 10 or 12,000 on the clock before they switch to a synthetic oil....these beemer motors seem to take a good while to break in.

[Trixie]

sorry, forgot-

the "special tool" is just a filter wrench, designed to fit over the end of the oil filter for removal and installation. No other way to get at it, as it scews up into the sump, flush with the pan.

[SKINNY]

The problem lies in finding a socket wrench to fit the OEM filter and the replacement filter. The Fram PH6063 is the same as the OEM, but some of the others may no be the same size or have the same number of flutes (flat sides) as the OEM. There must be a gazillion different sizes and shapes for oil filters and they're not necessarilly the same as stock....


skinny

[Trixie]

Yup, ya gotta pick yer filter, and stick with it.

I bought the BMW wrench for about $15 online. Eurotech Motorsports has 'em, as does Bob's, and numerous other online dealerships.

The aftermarket filter wrenches can be had at nearly anyplace that sells oil filters for about $3

I have accumulated half a dozen of these things over the years, so I always have something that will fit. In my original post I made the point that whichever filter you pick, you will need a wrench for that filter.

"filter hopping" will only cause you inconvenience- find your brand, buy your wrench, and stick with it.

[Rad]

Hello

Here they are some quick tips if this will be your first oil change on a BMW.

• Get the proper wrenches, sockets etc

• Have a replacement filter and crush ring for the oil drain plug before you start.

• Have your oil, 4 quarts. If you are using BMW oil double check that it is the proper oil and not gear oil for your tranny or final drive. The containers look very much alike.

• warm the bike up by riding it.

• let it sit on the side stand for at least 15 min then place it on the center stand so as much oil as possible will drain out. Trust me, it will still not all drain. This point is very important later.

• Drain the oil first using the drain plug under the engine, skid plates must be removed.

• Take off the oil filter next. It is a good idea to use latex gloves during this messy process. Do not burn yourself on the oil.

• Allow the oil plenty of time to drain.

• With a clean lint free rag clean the drain plug, the opening and up inside the oil filter opening

• Apply a thin coat of new oil to the black rubber seal on the new oil filter and install it using the proper torque specs. Many of us have a good feel for how tight is tight, or use a hand tighten till contact is made then “X” amount of a turn more to finish. Until you develop a feel use the torque specs.

• install the cleaned drain plug with the new crush washer, again use torque specs.

• Before you add oil double check that you did in fact install the oil filter and drain plug.

• Important! Only add 3 and 3/4 quarts of oil to the bike. Do not top it off until you have run it to operating temps and checked the level using the side stand center process described above. Do this a few times. When you do top it off only do so to the red center dot.

Good luck

[Sparky]

Before you install the new oil filter, fill it with oil! Right up to the top. Otherwise you'll have to add oil in a few miles, after the filter has filled.

- S

[Trixie]

don't forget to point the bike north, so that the earth's magnetic field will align itself with the crank, and allow the metal particulates in the oil to become polarized coherently............

[fish]

Originally posted by ttruex

You can replace the gasket on the drain plug, but I only do that every few changes, or when the ring gets scrunched from too much tightening. Don't strip the drain plug hole

A caution here...the crush ring for the drain plug is designed to be used *once*. They're probably one of the cheapest parts you'll ever buy from BMW and worth replacing every oil change.

[Kenny Jay]

One more thing.........I keep an old crush washer on my bike key chain. More times than not, the Beemer guy behind the counter will give me the wrong size. They always swear its the size I need. The bike uses three different crush washers for the various fill and drain plugs.

Kenny Jay
'95 R1100GS

[fish]

Originally posted by Kenny Jay
One more thing.........I keep an old crush washer on my bike key chain. More times than not, the Beemer guy behind the counter will give me the wrong size. They always swear its the size I need. The bike uses three different crush washers for the various fill and drain plugs.

Kenny Jay
'95 R1100GS

that's a really smart idea. I think i'll start doing the same. I've also bought the wrong crush washer before. bastids.

[Trixie]

I think the whole point was just to have a reference always handy for when you went in to buy one. That way you always get the right size..:

I think Fish got bit by the BMW engineering police- they may be *designed* for only one use, but I've re-used them quite a few times when I've forgotten to get a spare.

No to belittle his point, however, better safe than sorry.


Trixie,

who is wearing underwear, in case you're looking today.....

[fish]

Originally posted by ttruex
I think Fish got bit by the BMW engineering police- they may be *designed* for only one use, but I've re-used them quite a few times when I've forgotten to get a spare.

I reused a crushwasher once. Leaked.

[Trixie]

well, that is definitely a sufficient sample population to make the decison.




I did say better safe than sorry