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Old 12-01-2010, 06:25 PM   #691
cu260r6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Since I want to do Tupiza to Uyuni, I'm thinking Sucre > Potosi > Tupiza > Uyuni.

Anyone know what the road from Potosi to Tupiza is like?
I'm pretty sure the road from Tarija to Potosi is partially/totally paved, so it might be quicker to just come back that way and then head from Tarija to Tupiza. Potosi to Tupiza direct is only about 200k, so even if it's horrible it can't take that long. However, I have no knowledge of this section.

If you stay in Tupiza ask for the best hotel in town. They have secure parking, a great place for breakfast, they're good with road info, and I got a private room for about $7 a night. They also run a 4 day jeep tour to Uyuni, so if you're going to take this route you might want to ask them for tips on some of the cool things to see along the way that are off the road.
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:36 PM   #692
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Originally Posted by Jammin View Post
Hey Vince, yeah, I'm so done with all the concrete from the past few weeks, but if it means bike parts, ok, have to do it. Main reason I want to go to Santa Cruz is finding a 525 chain, that too a good one. I put on a crappy Iris chain only about 7,500 miles ago and it's already loosening up every couple hundred miles. I'll contact the store in Sucre and see if they have a chain for me.

Since I want to do Tupiza to Uyuni, I'm thinking Sucre > Potosi > Tupiza > Uyuni.

Anyone know what the road from Potosi to Tupiza is like?

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Awesome day of riding today. First, the narrow Deals Gap kinda road from Salta to Jujuy. Fun, but too tight for a big bike. Would be perfect in a Mini Cooper Then the colorful Quebrada de Humahuaca, north of Jujuy to Pumamarca and the seven colored mountain. From there, a beautiful set of hairpin turns peaking at 4,200 m (13,780 ft) and down to the Salinas Grandes - salt flats (much smaller than Uyuni), but nice nonetheless. Towards the end of the day, I got a flat. Couldn't find the culprit, but new tube is working fine in there.

Heading for the Bolivian border tomorrow at Bermejo/Aguas Blancas to Tarija.

I saw lots of Iris chains in Bolivia. I saw one DID, but only a 520. In fact, in La Paz, the only person that had a 525 chain was the KTM dude, and he even said that he just got it in from Peru. I'm not saying that you cant get a 525 in Bolivia, just that it will be difficult to get a good one, and you might have to wait a while even to get a crappy Iris one. So, IMO, Santa Cruz would be your best bet. Either the KTM shop or the Beemer shop in Santa Cruz for 525 chains. Or, you could just call them, pay by credit card, and have them ship it on a bus to where ever you are.
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:51 PM   #693
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If one of those don't work there is a really nice Honda dealership in La Paz that looks like something from the US. It's pretty expensive, but I imagine they'll have one if no one else does. It's in the bottom of the valley somewhat close to the river way away from the other tiny moto shops where most of the hostels are.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:28 AM   #694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashmaster View Post
I saw lots of Iris chains in Bolivia. I saw one DID, but only a 520. In fact, in La Paz, the only person that had a 525 chain was the KTM dude, and he even said that he just got it in from Peru. I'm not saying that you cant get a 525 in Bolivia, just that it will be difficult to get a good one, and you might have to wait a while even to get a crappy Iris one. So, IMO, Santa Cruz would be your best bet. Either the KTM shop or the Beemer shop in Santa Cruz for 525 chains. Or, you could just call them, pay by credit card, and have them ship it on a bus to where ever you are.


Helo Guys, if you like offroad you can cross the Chiguana Salar bettween Uyuni and the chile border, there are a lot of bad and good routes around ...

See some pictures, we passed some weeks ago there:

Uyuni:
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-110

and

http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-281

ADV route and Camping
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-283

Very good route from Chiguana to Calama (Chile )
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-303

Regards

FOX - ADV rider in Brazil
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Old 12-03-2010, 05:18 AM   #695
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(the quote button doesnt seem to be working, maybe part of the upgrade)
But anyways, thanks for the info, Vince. Santa Cruz it is.

If not, I have a friend in La Paz from my earlier visit to Bolivia and he said he could buy things for me and send it down on a bus to Sucre or wherever.

Hey Evandro, thanks for the info. I think I´m set on the Lagunas route, but I´ll keep your info handy

______________

I crossed back into Bolivia today at the Aguas Blancas, Arg - Bermejo, Bol crossing. Smooth and not much traffic at the border, total 1 hour for all the processing on both sides. Just an FYI, Bolivian customs asked for insurance. I showed her my photoshopped Panama insurance and it worked like a charm (photoshopping involved removing references to Panama and extending the validity date )

Im in Tarija tonight, nice wine-producing region. The place has a Mediterranean feel to it, mucho vino
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Old 12-03-2010, 06:16 AM   #696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evandro.dalben View Post
Helo Guys, if you like offroad you can cross the Chiguana Salar bettween Uyuni and the chile border, there are a lot of bad and good routes around ...

See some pictures, we passed some weeks ago there:

Uyuni:
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-110

and

http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-281

ADV route and Camping
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-283

Very good route from Chiguana to Calama (Chile )
http://www.pisteiros.com.br/profiles...ivia-chile-303

Regards

FOX - ADV rider in Brazil
Rockin' pictures on your website! LOVED the Salar when I was there many years ago. Thanks for the links.

And of course Jammin', loving the trip updates, pictures and the info... I traveled in SA many moons ago "on foot" for a year, but am loving your ride reports and wish I had had a bike then. keep up the good work and ride safe!
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:59 PM   #697
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Awesome day of dirt riding yesterday from Tarija to Villa Montes, climbing down the eastern flank of the Andes. This is the kind of road Bolivia is known for: cliff-hugging, sandy, awesome scenery and crazy traffic! Windy day today up to the big city of Santa Cruz, where I need to find new tires and stock up for the trip across the salar :)
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Old 12-06-2010, 07:29 AM   #698
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Brazil, Part 7: Chapada Diamantina and Minas Gerais

September 25 - October 3, 2010

From Salvador, I headed inland to the scenic Chapada Diamantina and then turned south through the drylands of western Bahia and northern Minas Gerais, making my way down to São Paulo.


Riding the straight, busy highway, heading out of Salvador towards the interior.


I casually stopped on the side of the road, just past the village of Rosalindho for a small break and was getting bothered by the notchiness of the throttle, so I tried a few adjustments. But, things got worse and the throttle was stuck open, it wouldn't close with the engine revving to full throttle upon ignition.


I opened up the throttle cable and found my problem - broken strands in the cable preventing it from sliding back to close the throttle. In hindsight, this problem was rearing its head earlier, even on the TransAmazônica, but I forgot to take care of it São Luís and now it was time to pay attention to it. I tried sniping the broken strands but it was no good; I needed a new cable and I wasn't carrying a spare.


I apparently stopped in the driveway of this small house and went up to ask them if I could please stay there for the night. I explained my situation and they gladly took me in. It was a Saturday afternoon and all the shops would be closed tomorrow, so I needed to wait till Monday before going into the nearby city to procure a new cable. There were no neighbors around and the remoteness was apparent at night with our Milky Way galaxy shining in full brightness.


The man of the house was a veteran of the Brazilian military and was supporting his family on a small pension.


They had a gas stove and some other amenities, but still preferred to use this wood-fired stove for boiling water.


Monday morning, I was put into a bus heading to the nearest city of Feira de Santana and asked my way around till I found someone who could help: this Suzuki dealership. Since my carburetor is not stock, they didn't have any cables that fit but told me where I could find the separate pieces of the cable to make a custom one for my needs. They were also kind enough to let me use their tools in the shop without charge - I had to grind the terminal heads of the cable to make it fit properly. With a new throttle cable and a spare made, I took the next bus back to the house.


My hosts, the veteran and his wife showing how happy he was to see that I made it back all on my own. The bus from the city didn't arrive till early evening and he said he was worried that something happened to me and he had started to get drunk to calm his nerves. As this was my last night here, his wife prepared quite a feast of chicken in a gravy, rice, pasta and beans, which was all very tasty. My Portuguese wasn't that great by now, but he understood what I was doing and we managed to communicate. I thanked them for taking me in.


Thinking my problems were over was premature. I had never opened this Mikuni TM38 Flat Slide carburetor before and was not familiar with all the parts and its delicateness. While installing the new throttle cable, I had to man-handle the slide (black square) due to the tension in the system from the throttle-closing spring and this caused me to snap a small piece off of the jet needle (the brass needle coming out from the bottom of the slide). The result was that the bike would be running fuel rich (too much fuel for air) until I could get a new needle. The bike was running fine, so I figured best to get to São Paulo and figure it out there.


Back on the road, heading to Lençóis.


Rio Lençóis running through the town, which was at the center of the diamond mining boom in the mid 19th century here in the foothills of the Chapada Diamantina (diamond plateau).


The central market building in front of Praça dos Nagôs (Nagos Square). After diamonds were discovered in nearby rivers in 1822, prospectors arrived from around Brazil and setup makeshift tent villages, which looked like bed sheets drying from the surrounding hills and from there came the name of the town, Lençóis, meaning sheets in Portuguese.


A week to go before elections and the campaiging was heating up with this street cart blasting out songs made in the favor of the particular candidate. Brazil is generally a well-developed country but it has a ways to go in terms of respecting personal space as this kind of close-range loud blaring of music would be considered rude in developed countries, but is totally acceptable here. But you know what, it keeps the atmosphere lively and there's never a dull moment.


The colonial architecture of Lençóis - the best preserved of the area's diamond mining towns. The boom lasted only about 50 years and the diamonds were more of industrial quality for rock cutting rather than for jewelry. At its height, the French were the biggest buyers, using them for the Panama Canal (before the US took over) and the London Underground. But the discovery of the South Africa diamond mines spelled the end of the boom in Chapada Diamantina.


The central street where cafe tables were setup at night for dinners in the cool evening breeze.


Having breakfast with my CouchSurfing host, Joana from Portugal and her friend, Roberta. Joana came to visit last year and ended up staying and is working with a volunteer project to teach English and also teaches pilates and yoga from her house.


The town of Lençóis in the foothills of Chapada Diamantina, a national park known for its numerous waterfalls and good hiking trails.


After breakfast, Joana and I headed for a small hike to see some waterfalls. The reddness in the water comes from tannins that are leached out as the water flows through a swamp or wetland. These kind of rivers are referred to as 'blackwater' rivers. It had the clarity of a good cup of tea.


Water channels actively cutting grooves in the rocks. Geological processes might take eons to make an impact, but they're happening all the time around us.


I was amazed at the red tinge of the water and initially thought it was due to cyanobacteria and heavy iron in the water, but later found out about the tannins. Either way, it makes for a unique landscape and for me, it's easy to be entertained by nature's color palette.


Soaking under a small waterfall in Chapada Diamantina and enjoying a natural massage thanks to gravity and some agua. The water was refreshing as the day warmed up.


Drying out on the rocks after we relaxed under the waterfalls. I can see why Joana was captivated by this place and decided to stay.


On the way back, coming across a rock face that was smoothed over by the river, showing a slice through the various stones.


Saying bye to Joana and her cute little house in Lençóis. She's a vegetarian, so I prepared a pumpkin curry for her the previous night (it was all she had in her fridge).


Heading out from Lençóis, I rode through the stunning scenery of Chapada Diamantina.


Just from the road, one can appreciate why this place has been referred to as Brazil's Lost World.


At the north end of the park, after a twenty minute hike I reached the top of Morro do Pai Inácio, and was rewarded with this view of Serra do Sincorá. It appears the crust was split open here, but it's probably due to water erosion.


There was no one around and the winds were blowing fiercely at the top of the cliffs.


After a night in the small town of Seabra, I continued south to Montes Claros. A budding volcano?


The roads were generally flat with a few hills and curves thrown in.


A dirt road leading into a ranch.


Cacti indicating the dry climate of inner Bahia.


The lonesome Bahia state highway 156 lacking significance to even get painted lines.


Getting on BR-122 as it cut through some rock.


The road was in better condition but I needed some audio books playing to keep my attention up.


A distance board near Guanambi. I was heading to Montes Claros, making this an 800 km (497 mi) day for me, the longest since leaving the US. From Montes Claros, I was heading to Belo Horizonte and then São Paulo.


Now, this is perfecting the drive-through concept. A petrol station with a service channel underneath for rapid oil changes.


Solar rays shining through the forthcoming rain clouds. I got drenched in the last few kilometers.


An oddity I noticed in Brazil was these cargo trucks that tend to lean the cargo out the higher it gets. Wouldn't this make tip-overs easier?


Staying in Montes Claros with Carol and her mom, through CouchSurfing. Carol is in the middle of her medical school studies.


Her mom prepared a quick meal of fried beef with yuca, rice and fried plantains.


Breakfast the next morning with fresh fruit, chocolate cake, pão de queijo and some tapioca puffs.


I didn't get the name of these tapioca puffs, but they were quite airy and tasty with butter.


Riding through the hills of Minas Gerais, one of the strongest states in Brazil in terms of economy and culture.


Taking the Estrada Real (royal road) to the diamond mining town of Diamantina. The road was established by the Portuguese crown in the 17th century to bring gold and diamonds from the interior of Brazil for shipment to Portugal and the banning of local production of food made the colony dependent on the crown for food imports to be sent back up the Estrada Real.


The train station in Diamantina, once the center of diamond mining in the region.


The colonial town is situated in a valley with steep streets. This narrow street was still being used by traffic.


A pleasant town to walk around, covered in cobble stones and red tiled roofs.


The Santo Antônio cathedral in the central Praça Conselheiro Mota.


After some lunch, I continued on south to Belo Horizonte. This is where Brazil starts to get crowded and is very well developed as most of the economic activity is based around the states of São Paulo and Minas Gerais. It would be freeways from here on. And sadly, motorcycles do have to pay tolls in Brazil unlike most other South American countries.


About to dig in to a chicken curry that I made for my hosts, Daniel and his friends in Belo Horizonte.


His cat was just asking to have his picture taken, sitting there so nicely and with his funny mustache, I couldn't refuse.


Even though it was all freeways, with the southern region of Brazil being quite hilly, it was still fun riding.


Just 150 kms (94 mi) from my destination of São Paulo, another bike issue revealed itself: dead battery. The bike was struggling on the highway and after rolling into this petrol station in Cambui, it wouldn't start again. I got it push-started but it quickly died again. A local car enthusiast at the nearby borracharia (tire repair shop) said he would tell a bike mechanic (in blue shirt) to come over and help me out. While waiting for the mechanic, Rockk (pronounced 'Hock'), all dressed in biker leather gear pulled up to fuel his Honda 250 touring bike and I got talking to him. He decided to hang around and give me company until I got sorted out. The mechanic told me my battery wasn't holding a charge anymore; it had run out of cranking amps and was all used up (it was a brand new Yuasa battery at the beginning of the trip). So, he gave me a smaller battery from a typical Honda 125cc bike that would be good enough for a couple starts and he said it would get me to São Paulo. I thanked him and he refused to take any money for his efforts.


And just our luck that two contemporary bikers would serendipitously connect with a biker from a bygone era. The older gentleman here is Tatita, the owner of the petrol station and attached auto dealer. He came over after the station manager told him that some bikers were hanging around. Actually, I was thinking through options as it was getting late and was asking about possibly storing the bike somewhere for the night so I could get it sorted tomorrow. Tatita came over and said we could use any of his facilities, one biker to another.


A poster on the wall had this photo of Tatita in 1946 on his 1939 Norton 500cc motorcycle. The caption reads that this was the same type of motorcycle that Ernesto (Che) Guevara and Alberto Granado used in their epic journey around South America in 1952 that spawned The Motorcycle Diaries. Tatita seemed quite the renegade for his time. I wonder what he thought about us youngins.


The poster in the office with more classic photos.


Tatita's petrol station today. sanDRina was alive again, now with a much smaller battery, but good to go for a few hundred kilometres.


Rockk is a certified auto mechanic and was coming from the interior of Minas Gerais and heading to the southern state of Santa Catarina for a workshop. We shared a room that night and here we're getting some grub in the main square of Cambui.


Stopping at the state border the next day as Rockk wanted a picture of the sign. I did the same thing when I was touring around the US, stopping for welcome signs at each state border.


We split off as we got near the megalopolis of São Paulo as he would be taking a route around the city and I was heading inside. Thanks for the company, fellow rider. When I break down now, instead of worrying about what's going to happen, I simply ask, "Ok, who does the Universe want me to meet now?" :)
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:50 AM   #699
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Great RR Jay! Stay safe out there!
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Old 12-06-2010, 12:26 PM   #700
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Fantastic RR Jay.
Normally when a bike acts up while running and then dies only to find no battery life means the charging systems is down. IMHO.

Ride on Mi amigo.
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Old 12-06-2010, 05:00 PM   #701
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Great RR Jay! Stay safe out there!
Thanks, James. I appreciate the feedback and muchas gracias for the donation amigo Just bought some tires today

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moraflex View Post
Fantastic RR Jay.
Normally when a bike acts up while running and then dies only to find no battery life means the charging systems is down. IMHO.

Ride on Mi amigo.
Thx. Yeah, that's what I feared to, but I had the charging system checked out while in Sao Paulo: generator, rectifier, even starter motor, all looked good. Experienced mechanics there said I had just used up the cranking amps, using the battery almost daily. But I still dont buy that. Who knows, let's hope this battery lasts for at least 10 months.
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:14 PM   #702
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Thanks, James. I appreciate the feedback and muchas gracias for the donation amigo Just bought some tires today


Thx. Yeah, that's what I feared to, but I had the charging system checked out while in Sao Paulo: generator, rectifier, even starter motor, all looked good. Experienced mechanics there said I had just used up the cranking amps, using the battery almost daily. But I still dont buy that. Who knows, let's hope this battery lasts for at least 10 months.
Check all the grounds, one may be slightly loose.
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Old 12-07-2010, 12:37 PM   #703
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Thanks, James. I appreciate the feedback and muchas gracias for the donation amigo Just bought some tires today

You're welcome. Love the RR.
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Old 12-07-2010, 07:43 PM   #704
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Check all the grounds, one may be slightly loose.
I did. Went through the whole electrical system and it all checks out.

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You're welcome. Love the RR.
Ah, you too. Two James donating in one day
Every little bit helps. Thanks a lot you guys

Good maintenance day today, here in Santa Cruz. Mounted a new rear Pirelli MT 60, new DID chain and front and rear sprockets and an oil change. New chain feels great. I bought the last two 525 chains here, keeping one as a spare. It's hot here. Was 38 C (100 F) today, while wrenching on the bike. Looking forward to the chills of the Andes.

The Metzeler Tourance that I mounted north of Lima did great, covering 22,000 kms (13,600 mi) and looked liked a few more miles were left on it. I also bought a set of more off road tires for the Lagunas route, a Kenda K270 (that I used on my CDR trip) and a front Kenda K257D, more motorcross-ish.
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Old 12-09-2010, 10:03 AM   #705
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I bought the last two 525 chains here, keeping one as a spare. .
I am just curious if you ever considered switching to a 520 chain for just these reasons? I did it on my DR650 mostly for sprocket options, but it would seem to be a nice benefit when traveling down there.

Anway, keep the updates coming. Love the report.
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